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    by Published on 04-21-2008 09:40 AM  Number of Views: 48538 

    Alrighty now. Here we go. First article I've made for any site, hopefully you all find it useful in some way so please please please comment on it once you finish going through it.
    Here's the concept. The undead march at night. Not in the morning. Not at noon. Not at tea time. At night. At least that's my opinion and I'm sticking to it. So my goal was to create a paintjob that really reflected this idea.  At night the cells in your eyes responsible for colour vision (cones) just don't function, so you're left with pretty much black and white vision (rods), but that's kind of boring, so instead I tried to stay away from bright colours, and stuck to neutral and desaturated tones as much as I could.

    This guide is broken down into sections and goes layer by layer through the process. I mostly used layering and washing/glazing through out the entire project. If you don't know how to do that, then please look them up in the articles section as I won't be explaining them as I go. I suppose this is enough talking so I suppose I'll get on with it.
    >>


    Page 1: Concept and Painting the Bones
    Page 2: Painting the Leather Straps and Cloth
    Page 3: Painting the Metals
    Page 4: Painting the Shield
    Page 5: Painting the Base
    Page 6: Finished

    Please assemble and prime your model before you begin, I've used black primer and I can't guarantee the same results if you use a different colour. I've used citadel paints, including some foundation paints, so again if you are using different paints use a conversion table or something like that or just your best guess.>>


    I. Bones>>


    Step 1: Basecoat the bones of the skeleton in a 1:1 mixture of Adeptus Battlegrey and Dheneb Stone (both foundation paints). Try to get a nice solid colour to start with. I find if you've watered the paint down two layers is probably enough. You don't need to be too neat, just make sure you get all the bones.
    >>


    Step 2: Apply a wash made of a 1:1:1 mixture of Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Graveyard Earth over the entire model. This wash mixture will get used throughout the entire process so if you plan on doing this a lot you may want to mix up a pot of it, or just find a way to keep it from drying out.


    Step 3: Once the wash is dry mix up a 1:1 mixture of Codex Grey and Graveyard Earth and layer it onto the bones, being careful to highlight only the upper surfaces of the bones, and leaving the recesses and lower surfaces darker. Apply a bit more of the mix to the back of the model, as for this one I've chosen the light to be coming from above and behind, you can use any direction you want, just keep it constant through your painting.
    >>


    Step 4: Apply another wash made of a 1:1:1 mixture of Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Ultramarines Blue over the bones. Just apply it fairly thin and let it get into the recesses of the bones, and do its own thing. If you apply it too thick you'll tone down your last high light a lot so try not to be too liberal with it.
    >>


    Step 5: When the wash is dry apply a 1:1 mixture of Graveyard Earth and Ice Blue to the upper surfaces and much like in Step 3, but just try to make the highlights thinner, and leave more dark showing. Again add a bit more highlighting to the back, or whichever direction you have chosen for your light source.
    >>


    Step 6: Apply a 1:1:1 mixture of Graveyard Earth, Ice Blue, and Space Wolves Grey to the upper most surfaces like before. This time don't highlight all the same places as before, but try to only highlight where the moonlight would be hitting, this may take a while to figure out, but just go with what feels right and it'll turn out fine.
    >>


    Step 7: Now finally apply a highlight of Space Wolves Grey to only the top surfaces of the bones, and as before only do the bones that would be most lit by the moon.

    *I have also at this stage cleaned up the model by painting Chaos Black over any areas that got paint on them that weren't bone.
    >>


    Ok so we're done the bones, let's move on to the leather straps and cloth.


    [pagebreak]


    II. Straps/Leather


    Step 1: Basecoat all the straps and leather bits with a 1:1 mixture of Adeptus Battlegrey and Khemri Brown (both foundation paints). Again aim for a nice solid colour, but now remember to be careful so you don't have to repaint any of the bone.
    >>


    Step 2: Apply a wash made of 1:1:1 Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Graveyard Earth. Try not to get it on the bones too much, but remember the same wash was used early on in the bones, so if you get it where the bones and leather meet it shouldn't really change the colours too much.
    >>


    Step 3: Ok, I'm sorry. I missed taking this picture, but it's pretty simple step so it shouldn't affect you too much. Apply a highlight of a 1:1 mix of Codex Grey and Graveyard Earth. Try to only highlight the tops and upper portions to leave some shading from the other steps. >>


    Step 4: Apply a wash made of a mix of 1:1:1 Chaos Black, Codex Grey and Ultramarines Blue. Apply it more or less like Step 2, just make sure it's not too thick that it tones down the highlights from Step 3 too much.
    >>


    Step 5: Apply a final highlight of 1:1:1 Codex Grey, Space Wolves Grey, and Bleached Bone. Apply this to only the very top of the straps much like the last highlight for the bones.
    >>


    III. Cloth


    Step 1: Apply a basecoat of Liche Purple. Like always a solid colour is the goal, do as many layers as needed.
    >>


    Step 2: Apply a pretty liberal wash of 1:1:1 Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Graveyard Earth. Try not to be too messy at this stage. You might have to do a couple separate washes for this step, just make sure they are dry before you apply the second coat of it.
    >>


    Step 3: Apply a highlight of 1:1 Liche Purple and Scab Red. Try to leave some of the darker dirtier purple showing, but it's not vital at this stage to leave a lot.
    >>


    Step 4: Do a highlight of 1:1:1 Liche Purple, Scab Red and Ice Blue. The colour transition is a little harsh so try not to apply it too heavily. Do your best to leave the reddy purple showing in some places.
    >>


    Step 5: Apply a final highlight of 1:1 Liche Purple and Space Wolves Grey. Put this only on the edges of the cloth, it should be pretty bright, and you don't want to make it too bright overall.
    >>


    Step 6: Do a careful wash of 1:1 Chaos Black and Liche Purple only in the recesses and lower surfaces of the cloth. Try not to get it on the final highlights if possible. You really only want to clean up the shadows and where the purples meet other colours.
    >>


    Just a little bit more and we're done this part, so let's move on to the metals.


    [pagebreak]
    >>


    IV. Metals


    *Ok, I'm going to apologize in advance for these pictures... They were the best I could do under the circumstances. Try to focus on the helmet or the random plates over the sword. When I get to the shield there are better pictures of the process. >>


    Step 1: Apply a basecoat of Boltgun Metal to the metal bits. Again be careful and aim for a solid colour.
    >>


    Step 2: Apply a wash of 1:1:1 Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Graveyard earth over the metals. Cover them completely, but don't let it pool too much. Two successive washes may be needed.
    >>

    ...
    by Published on 04-17-2008 10:59 AM  Number of Views: 17680 
    Article Preview

    Painting A Dinosaur the MadPonies way!
    This guide will give a quick, easy, and effective method of painting dinosaurs, lizards, lizardmen, or other figures with reptillian skin.It may work bes on fantasy figures or dinosaurs, as then no one can tell you the flesh is innaccurate.  :-)  For this guide I will use  Deinychus figures from Copplestone Castings.







    1. Starting from black primer, the lower half is done in a medium cork brown.


    2. The same areas are gone over with a thinnish coat, fairly fast and not
    paying too much attention to complete coverage. This is not really a
    drybrush technique, but the effect is similar in smaller areas. The wetness
    and thinness of the coats makes this fast, and still gives some layering and
    texture at the same time. Coat #2 is the color from #1 with more yellowish
    sand colors added.

















    3. a mix of the #2 with a lot of off-white added, and a more drybrush-like
    technique to get some ...
    by Published on 04-15-2008 04:53 PM  Number of Views: 46079 
    Article Preview

    Someone posted to my Ork Battlewagon blog here (linky) on CMON asking if I was going to tell my secret to making the battle damage shown in the photos. Not really a "secret" but I looked around the articles section and didn't find one so I've decided to make it my my first article. How To Do Battle Damage.
    I'll show how I do three most common types of damage: Cut Metal, Bullet Damage and Explosive Damage. Each uses slightly different tools and a way of thinking about how the damage got there. This tutorial will not show you how to paint this damage, only how to inflict it on the plastic itself. These technique should work as well on metals as well.
    CUTTING/CONSTRUCTION DAMAGE.
    This is most commonly seen on the edges of metal plates that have been hacked or torched off other metal things and bolted/welded/riveted on ork vehicles in a poor assemblage of armor plating, like this...

    The physical technique for this is pretty easy, it's really an exaggerated form of adzing, or scraping. The trick is to really choke up on the Xacto and use your thumb to control the blade (like in the first photo). ...

    Rust 

    by Published on 04-14-2008 04:30 AM  Number of Views: 20142 

    Hi, I just found a technique for doing rust/oxidised metals which seems to work and just wanted to share this with ...
    by Published on 04-02-2008 11:22 AM  Number of Views: 24820 
    Article Preview

    Death Korps of Krieg - Mortar teamHello,I dared to write my first tutorial. As I think my painting is quite good I would like to share some experience and knowledge with you...for ...
    by Published on 03-20-2008 02:02 PM  Number of Views: 17595 
    Article Preview

    EASY-CRYSTALSDo you ever just throw away your old sprues...?if so; SHAME ON YOU!Sprue can be a very handy in making all sorts of bits and pieces.The majority of mine is chopped into thousands of small pieces ...
    by Published on 03-16-2008 01:36 AM  Number of Views: 23173 

    This tutorial is being done at the request of several people for an explaination on how I do the flowers and cattails on ...
    by Published on 03-15-2008 03:58 PM  Number of Views: 23383 
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    Playing around with cork sheet and came up with a nice fast way to make damaged or broken brickwork.So thought I would do ...
    by Published on 03-04-2008 09:25 AM  Number of Views: 30228 
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    The making of an Eldar Revenant Titan1.How it all began:    In an Italian board, Titans were coming out as ...
    by Published on 02-26-2008 09:03 PM  Number of Views: 11806 

    Currently taking aircraft maintenance at school I have found a rather quick and simple way to produce razor wire coils.  ...
    by Published on 02-16-2008 05:00 AM  Number of Views: 25662 

    This article is how I prep and paint my Ultramarines at a table top quality. This article is really for beginners ...
    by Published on 02-10-2008 08:03 PM  Number of Views: 26942 
    Article Preview

    When it comes to painting and modeling, its often the little touches of creativity that can really make a piece stand out. A great looking game layout is all the more enjoyable to play on and can make the experience that much more engaging. A little unexpected touch of style can make your figure jump out from the crowd. Verdigris is one of those techniques I think every painter ought to have in their bag of tricks for just those reasons. It may not be one youll use all the time, but when you have the call for it, I think you'll be glad that you can deliver.
    As with most painting techniques, it helps to have a good idea of what youre trying to represent when you set out to figure out how to do it. Verdigris is the ...
    by Published on 01-29-2008 04:19 AM  Number of Views: 20635 

    Hello everyone, I am presenting my last job: the splendid lathiem of La Torre (what a wonderful miniature!) It is for me a “study miniature”, where I wanted to try new techniques.
    Below I translate you the article that I wrote for legio pictorum. Unfortunately  I speak English badly, but I hope that it is understandable although possibly full of errors. Please forgive me for this.
    I hope that it can be useful!

    As a “study miniature” there are a series of things that ...
    by Published on 01-25-2008 05:35 PM  Number of Views: 39414 

    Hopefully, this little article will help you with some weathering techniques for both metal and nmm painting styles.For this article I will be mainly using citadel colour, with the exeption of vallejo smoke.I know this isnt an article about nmm, so ...
    by Published on 01-03-2008 08:28 PM  Number of Views: 17620 
    Article Preview

    This tutorial is for how to make very simple, very easy, very cheap movement trays for your Battle for Skull Pass set!I got Skull ...
    by Published on 12-16-2007 02:38 AM  Number of Views: 93116 

    MetalsAlmost since the day I found the online community, I have been a huge admirer of the amazing metallics seen from minis by painters like Allan C, Cyril, Mathieu_l, and of course the metal master himself, NANO   I have been trying to emulate their excellent results for a long time, and I have had some questions about my own metallics technique recently, so I thought it might be time to write a bit of an article about some of the things I have learned about using metallics.
    Metallics or NMM? A bit of discussion.
    A lot of painters seem to have a strong preference for either metallics or NMM, but the more I think about it, the less logical it seems to favour ...
    by Published on 12-13-2007 09:05 AM  Number of Views: 33817 

     Since I started a Nurgle chaos army a little while back, I have come up with many ways of creating little Nurglesque details. ...
    by Published on 12-05-2007 10:41 PM  Number of Views: 18305 
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    I wanted to put a small figure on top of a decorative column. The figure itself is a little over a half-inch tall (about ...
    by Published on 10-15-2007 01:51 AM  Number of Views: 30188 

    Hello again, and welcome to the speed painting series! First up we have:Eyes!1. Begin by painting the eye entirely black. ...
    by Published on 10-11-2007 04:06 AM  Number of Views: 14907 
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    This article outlines the process for creating a small portable background for photographing your miniatures. For this project, you will need:
    ...

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