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    by Published on 01-04-2010 06:36 AM  Number of Views: 75935 
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    So I've recently bought some brushes. And as we're all told, THE best brushes are Winsor and Newton series 7, series 7 miniature, and Raphael 8404.

    Another brush company that is becoming reputable are Rosemary and co. I have yet to try any of their brushes.

    Now. Before I begin my comparison of the brush companies labeled above. I want to delve into what kind of brushes are useful, what I believe they are useful for(at least for my style) and then I will talk about the companies and their brushes.

    1. Brush Types.

    The most standardized brush type for miniature painting is the "Round" brush.
    by Published on 12-29-2009 08:48 PM  Number of Views: 47196 
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    Step 1:

    This part of the tutorial that will cover how I created the
    burnt out trees.

    What you will need:

    1. Plaster Cloth

    2. Bases to mount the trees on (I used the flat 60mm GW

    3. Armature wire (Or some other easily bendable thicker

    4. Wood Glue

    5. Sand for the bases

    6. Red, lace w:st="on">Orangelace>,
    Black and Gray Paint (Or white to mix with black)

    7. Knife to cut the Plaster cloth

    8. Bowl to fill with water

    9. Wire cutters/pliers

    10. Paint burshes

    Step 1:

    Cut 8x 8” sections of wire for each tree you want to make.

    Each 2 wires will make one branch, so if you want more or
    less branches add or subtract 2 wires.

    Bunch up your set of wires for a tree and grip them with the
    pliers twisting the wire to create the trunk. After you have a long enough
    trunk, go ahead and twist out the branches. After you have twisted them out,
    bend them around enough to look like a gnarled tree. Trim the “roots” so that
    they fit on the base you are using.


    by Published on 12-22-2009 04:03 AM  Number of Views: 74814 

    Telcharion Article

    Painting the Flesh, Robes, Textured Apron, and Base Construction


    For this article, I have painted Telcharion from Enigma’s ‘Massive Darkness’ range. I thought it might make a good article figure, because it is fairly simple, with clearly defined parts – I chose to focus on the painting of the flesh, the robes, and the apron. I also recorded and explained the construction of the base.


    As I have mentioned in previous articles, I think it is worth putting a little time into the preparation of a figure, before the painting begins. Creating a nice, smooth surface with which to work makes life a lot easier, and less frustrating, when it comes to painting, meaning a little extra time at this prep stage can save a lot of headaches later.

    After removing the mould lines carefully by scraping with a scalpel, and filing any particularly rough bits with an assortment of needle files, I used sandpaper (400-800 grade works well) to gently smooth out any other areas that remained rough. After this, I scrubbed the figure with a wire brush – be careful the bristles are not too hard; mine has brass bristles I think, but if you use one with bristles that are too hard, they will scratch the figure and ruin it. Test a new brush on something unimportant first! After this, you can use a toothbrush and wash the figure in warm soapy water, to remove any oil or dust from the surface before paint is applied. This scrubbing with the brushes is what makes the figure shiny and gleaming (sort of!).

    If there is any pitting or cracks in the cast, these can be filled in with a liquid putty, or with milliput mixed with water to create a sort of 'wash'. This wash can be painted liberally over the figure, allowing the milliput to settle in any depressions or marks, resulting in a smoother surface. It can also be gently sanded once dry, if necessary. I find that milliput standard (yellow-grey) works best; I find it a lot easier to work with, than the superfine versions, with which I have encountered problems.

    You can see the figure is standing on a champagne cork in all the following WIP photos. I always paint my figures like this, because I find it a lot easier to hold this way. I drill a hole into the bottom of each foot usually about a centimetre deep, and insert metal wire into each with superglue. Leaving 2 or 3 centimetres protruding from each foot allows the wires to be stuck into the cork to hold the figure, and later, they are used to attach it securely to the base.

    For this figure, I also made a few little adjustments to the face, using a putty mix of greenstuff (a.k.a. duro or kneadatite) and milliput. I mix milliput with the greenstuff, because I find it easier to create a smooth transition between the metal and sculpted areas; also, it means you can sand the putty once dry to be sure it is smooth. These little changes to the face weren’t strictly necessary, merely a personal thing – I just wanted to slightly reposition the brows, mainly. It was a small adjustment to sharpen the facial features a little.


    Base coats, Colour Selection and Contrast

    After undercoating (I used Tamiya Surface Primer spray, which is a mid-grey colour – you can see it on the hammers in the following photos), I painted the base colours onto the main areas of the figure. I find it helpful to paint the bulk of the base colours first, because it lets me get a preview of how the various colours might work together, and helps me make decisions about the main colour scheme. I usually work out the basic colour scheme I want to use before I start painting, but after painting on the base colours like this, I often change my mind about a particular colour once I see it against the other colours in reality, on the figure.

    I like to use quite high colour contrast when painting fantasy figures, because I think that exaggerated colour, lighting and contrast suits the ‘hyper-reality’ of the fantasy world. I think it is worth pushing beyond what might be ‘realistic’; realism has its place, and certainly, when painting historical figures a realistic style might be more appropriate. But the whole point of fantasy lies in its exaggeration of reality, so in my view, it is good to take this opportunity to create a figure with a bit more ‘impact’. I think fantasy is more about strong visual ideas, rather than creating something that looks real.

    With this in mind, I used a few different methods to create contrast within the colour scheme chosen for this figure. First of all, there is a contrast between warm and cool colours: the ‘coldest’ colour present on the figure is the strong cyan colour of the pants, belt and arm straps. This cyan is balanced against the warm, light orange tones of the flesh, and the warm, dark-orange-brown of the apron – cyan and orange are opposites on the colour wheel. The yellow-green of the robes, and the dark red-purple of the boots and other little leather components, are also opposites, both colours lying in-between the warm and cold ‘poles’ of the cyan and orange, and thus perform the role of supporting colours, balanced against each other. In combination, these colours create a sort of ‘quadratic’ colour scheme, with all 4 hues creating an even spread of hues around the colour wheel, and hopefully a balanced scheme which is pleasing to the eye.

    Here’s a little pictorial representation of what I am talking about, with the basic colour palette spaced around a circle representing a colour wheel. Please excuse the roughness of the pic – it's just a quick one to try to show you the main ideas, so excuse the inaccuracies. The cyan is opposite in hue to red-orange, so they are on opposite sides of the circle. The yellow-green and red-purple hues are a little closer in hue to the orange than the cyan, which is why they are spaced a little further towards the orange on the circle. This is compensated for by the fact that the cyan is the brightest, or most ‘saturated’ of all the colours in the palette, and this extra brightness means it has more ‘weight’ in the scheme – it can balance against all the other colours.

    Another way by which contrast is created with the colour scheme, is the balance between light and dark areas on the figure. I tried to make a conscious effort to have a wide range of colour ‘value’ across the figure; that is, rather than using colour that all lie within a mid range of light-dark value, I used areas of very dark colour, such as the apron, hair and purple leather parts, against much lighter areas, such as the flesh. This created a more dynamic look for the figure, with the added value contrast.

    Contrast can also be created by using a wide range of ‘saturation’ or brightness between colours. So, for example, on this figure, there are some very saturated colours, such as the cyan pants, belt and arms straps, and parts of the green robes. Setting these colours against much less saturated, more neutral parts, such as the apron, hair, hammers, and most of the base makes them seem even brighter. If too many strong colours are used in a colour scheme, I think their impact is reduced – saturated colours will compete against each other for attention, and maybe cause a bit of a ‘colour clash’. So I think it is important to remember to have some fairly neutral areas, even when painting in fantasy style.


    The Flesh

    After the base coat, which was a mix of P3 Midlund Flesh, P3 Rucksack Tan and GW Fortress Grey, with a touch of P3 Menoth White Highlight, the first step was to begin identifying the shadows. Using a red-orange colour, I painted a series of thin glazes in the shadows, giving the flesh some colour.

    Then, I continued the shading, using a darker red-brown colour to further emphasise the volumes. It is important to always keep in mind the direction of the light source – you need to have made a clear decision on the direction from which the light is falling, in order to maintain coherence with your shadows and highlights. In this case, I am using top-down or (‘zenithal’) lighting, which is the most common and the easiest to visualise. Just imagine the light falling onto the figure from directly above, as if someone was shining a torch down onto the figure.

    Next, I emphasised the shadows even further, introducing a little dark green-blue into the darkest areas. Because it is applied in thin glazes, the colour does not show up as anything too obvious, but it does add some depth to the overall colour and appearance, in my opinion.

    At this point, I started to apply some highlights. First, I neatened any rough-looking areas with some glazes of the original base colour to blur the blending a little. Then, I mixed P3 Menoth White Highlight with the base colour for the first stage of highlighting, and some touches of pure Menoth White Highlight. I also added a touch more of the dark green-blue in the deepest shadows.

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    by Published on 12-12-2009 03:47 AM  Number of Views: 56328 

    So you've decided you need to base your Fremen or your Harkonens or your modern US Marines - but need some ideas of what ...
    by Published on 10-24-2009 11:15 AM  Number of Views: 56365 
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    I just bought my first Warmachine models some weeks ago. I decided to paint my Cryx jacks with an alternative theme, because I don't like the 'offical' theme very much. I chose bone as my main colour and some corroded bronze and rusted metal to other parts. I painted first one deathripper, and I was pretty pleased on the result. When I was starting to paint the second one, my brother asked me to make a step by step on it. I took many photos to make the tutorial easy to follow.
    Result can be seen here.

    I assume you can do blending. If you don't, look at the CMoN articles page, there's lot of blending tutorials. I also assume you have basic knowledge about NMM(non-metallic metals).

    I suppose you to use wet pallette, because you have to mix paints much.

    Here's how I made it.


    Before painting or assembling, I removed the mould lines and washed the parts. Then I assembled it. The base were made of cork. It wasn't really hard, I just cut some parts of a cork board and cracked them ...
    by Published on 08-12-2009 08:57 PM  Number of Views: 56789 
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    Hey everyone! Thanks to the encouragement of Grunts1175 I decided to make an article based off of the step by step tutorial I made for a WIP in the forums. It is a tutorial for making nice tabletop ...
    by Published on 08-09-2009 02:46 PM  Number of Views: 49563 
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    Hey all thought i'd do a simple rust tutorial that i just did on the inderneath of my trukk
    You will need the following

    Tin bitz
    Boltgun metal
    Vermin brown
    An old brush for stippling
    Step 1
    Basecoat the area's you want metal ...
    by Published on 06-12-2009 02:25 PM  Number of Views: 90704 

    This tutorial will explain the steps to create a lava gaming board. These same steps can be used to create many other types of terrain too. Sorry if it is a little long. I figured more detail was better then less.

    Edit: added estimated costs of materials and board "standardizing".
    What you will need:

    1. Dow foam insulation. This can be found at most construction supply depots. It comes in blue or pink sheets. It comes in 2’x8’ sheets, so you will need 2 of them.($28 each)
    2. 3X 2’x4’x 1�” pre-cut plywood sheets. These can be purchase at any Home Depot type store.($4 each)
    3. Heated wire foam cutter and Hot Knife.($15 for the wire cutter)
    4. 1 or 2 tubes of subfloor glue.($3 each)
    5. 1 or 2 tubes of ACRYLIC latex caulking.($3 each)
    6. 1 caulking gun.($8)
    7. 1 plastic tarp to work on. ($10)
    8. 1 long bladed utility knife or kitchen knife.(Free, as long as your wife does not catch you!)
    9. 1 bag of play yard sand. These can be purchase at any Home Depot type store.($2)
    10. 1 sheet of 1�” masonite board.($4)
    11. 1 quart of black latex wall paint ($5)
    12. 1 bottle of cheap white acrylic craft paint ($3)
    13. 1 bottle each of yellow and dark red/orange cheap acrylic craft paint.($2)
    14. 1 sharpie.($1)
    15. Something to cut masonite boards with. I used a Jigsaw.(Varies)
    16. Sandpaper to smooth the edge of the masonite templates.($2)
    17. 1 large paintbrush and 1 medium sized one for painting the lava rivers.($5)
    18. 1 small can of Drywall patching compound. ($2)

    Step 1:

    Take your 2 sheets of foam and lay them out. Cut them each equally in half so ...
    by Published on 06-11-2009 06:44 PM  Number of Views: 57408 

    This is a tutorial on how to make your own storage trays for army transport storage cases.
    Depending on the thickness you can make a tray for $3-$5 and you will be able to fit more miniatures in them because you can jigsaw the miniatures in to the most efficient usage of space, instead of staying in the predefined square grid that the army transport trays have.

    What you will need:
    -Enough sheets of cardboard to make the bottoms for the trays ...
    by Published on 06-10-2009 05:58 PM  Number of Views: 57464 

    Last night I sat down and browsed around the internet to see if I could find any decent guides for making custom flags. ...
    by Published on 05-30-2009 06:06 AM  Number of Views: 79397 
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    Hey folks, here's how I make barbed wire. Step 1 - the materialsFind a suitably thin wire to use, in this case I took an old computer cable:Inside we find thin electrical cables, and in those are the very fine strings I use:You can use any thin string for this, in fact it you would be better of with a little thicker ...
    by Published on 05-25-2009 03:13 PM  Number of Views: 65437 

    Stripping!Put your dollar bills and your pound notes away boys and girls ;-) As today tutorial is all about stripping models…the ...
    by Published on 05-13-2009 10:48 AM  Number of Views: 42055 
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    Painting guide written by Klaus Teschner
    I figured that rather than just show you how I painted the bases in our product image it would be best to cover a couple of extra alternative ways to paint your Rocky bases.  In this article I shall cover how to paint according to the climate you wish to portray.  I must state that this article is for beginners.
    Moderate climate scheme
    Stage 1
    Once I cleaned my bases I primed ...
    by Published on 04-03-2009 11:54 PM  Number of Views: 44461 

    Ujahu: part II - painting the figure

    For this article, I decided not to go into too much detail about the specific colours used and technical aspects of the paintwork, but more just document the basic process, and try to give some more broad insights into the general painting method.

    Stage 1: Just a quick pic of the mini after preparation, and ready for undercoating. As I have mentioned in other articles, I always spend some real time preparing figures properly: after removing mould lines ...
    by Published on 04-03-2009 11:22 PM  Number of Views: 45811 

    Ujahu – part I: creating the base

    I have been asked a few times recently about making bases, so I thought I would document the general process this time. It is a fairly simple base – I mean, it is nothing too inventive or original, nothing ground-breaking – but perhaps the basic process I went through might interest some of you!

    Stage 1: Here you can see that I have taken a block of hardwood, and attacked it with a saw on the front corners, to create a more interesting, contoured shape. After roughly cutting chunks from the corners with the saw, I used rough files to smooth the surface and shapes a little, and round off any sharp edges. ...
    by Published on 03-29-2009 10:02 AM  Number of Views: 70925 

    (by Massimiliano Mattei aka xMANIGHTx from Terni)
    First of all forgive me for my english, I'll try to be as clear as possible. I got back to mini painting after some years of rest. I always do. I paint for a year then stop for three or more then go back to paint... I ...
    by Published on 03-29-2009 08:00 AM  Number of Views: 39709 

    Hello!Here it is, the underwhelming tutorial article of a lifetime!Okay, now I assume you know the basics:

    Cleaning the casting residue ...
    by Published on 03-17-2009 12:12 PM  Number of Views: 278717 
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    Foliage, natural base enhancing, creative thinking and kitchen raiding
    Often you see miniatures in contests like golden daemon or iron painter having a kind of awe around them that impresses you. Often this is done by exceptional painting skill but in an area where lots of people have quite matching skills you’ll notice the winners often have a very nice and decorative base. I ...
    by Published on 03-10-2009 09:54 PM  Number of Views: 46447 
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    IntroAfter dwelling within the sick depths of my mind as a dark-surrealist illustrator for several years, I decided today to experience a breath of stale nostalgia and I found myself browsing the website that occupied most of time as a pre-teen: ...

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    Painting 15mm Imperial Romans step by step

    Welcome to Painting 15mm Imperial Romans tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for 15mm scale Imperial Romans by Grenzer Games as can be seen in this gallery.

    Before we start, some notes:

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