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  • How to Paint Bruises

    Just so you know how I work, I live in the desert so even wet pallets dry out too fast. I always mix paints into these little snap top pots. That way I can keep the paint wet, pull paint out of the lid after I shake it, and store the paint so I can use it 6 months from now if I want to use the same color again. Works great but you have to be careful opening and closing the pots. Splattering paint is an issue but if you close it with a piece of paper towel over the top it keeps things under control. 1st we need an ochre yellow that's a bit on the green side. I'm using GW desert yellow for this (thanks for the paints Tracy of TABStudios). The proportions are 3 drops of the paint (it's a bit on the thick side), 9 drops of glazing medium and then the same volume as this makes in magic wash (a 50/50 solution of distilled water and Future Floor Wax). I drop in 2 small beads to stir the mix and shake untill all the paint is mixed in. This will make a VERY thin mix but it's a glaze so don't worry. It will work with a bit of patience.
    Step 1) Paint the skin to a level that you would call finished. This includes all shading and high lighting that you would normally do. Seal the paint on the area of the bruise with a bit of brush on sealer as if you were done. Step 2) With the finest brush you have (I'm using a Reaper 20/0 fine detail brush), pick up some of the yellow glaze and dab MOST of it off on a paper towel. This is a glaze, not a wash, so make sure you off load well. Paint the remaining paint on the spot you want the bruise, running over the edges of the area a bit. We're going for a bruise that's a few days old and this will be that green/yellow color at the edges of the bruise. Cover the whole area, tho'. You won't notice the color even going down at this stage. Don't worry. Remember-Glaze. Add layers untill you have a stain of the yellow over the skin. Go slow. You will be adding more near the end so you don't have to go real heavy now.  
    Notice in the picture it's hard to see this paint. It's close to the same tone as the skin.
    Step 3) Again with a glaze (and even less than before) add a bit of black to the most extreme impact point that caused the bruise. Drag the glaze out a bit to simulate pooling of blood. The key is not to be too regular about it and keep it light. If you get it too dark like I did here just add a bit more yellow over the top. You can already start to see the bruise taking shape here.
    Step 4) Mix a glaze of a grey blue that's a darkish mid-tone. I'm using a Reaper pro paint night sky. Again, keep it really thin. This is placed around and overlapping the black, leaving a very small amount of black showing in the middle. The black is hard to see here because of the yellow I put over it. Other than the 1st coat of yellow, I'm working from the darkest colors to the lightest.
    Step 5) Now we're going to pink things up a bit. This is really going to look red but that will be toned down later. For this step you need a red that's on the blue side as opposed to on the orange side. I'm using a craft paint for this because I don't have a red in good paint that isn't orange-y. It's Craft Smart #23676-Cherry Cobbler. Again, I made the wash but I needed more Magic Wash and Glazing Medium than before because the paint is thick. This glaze needs to go around the edges of the bruise, again overlapping it. On a large bruise this should be mottled, showing pure blue/black in areas but this is a really small area (large in proprtion to the mini but small as it's a dwarf's hand, not a troll's). It looks very pink but that's okay.
    Step 6) Now if this was a fairley fresh bruise you would skip this part, however I'm going for an older bruise. Take a sage-y green that's on the light side and make another glaze with it. I'm using Reaper Master Series Mold Flesh. Dab this around on the bruise. The older the bruise the more of it you want. Be careful, tho'. This will really take the edge off the red so if you want a red look to the bruise make sure you go really light. I'm going old so I went fairly heavy. This is the area where you really take controle of this bruise. If you do too much of the green add a bit of the blue or red back in.
    Step 7) Now for the (maybe) Final step. Go back to your yellow glaze. Paint this around edges of the bruise and over any part of it you want lightened. This will give it that old gross color that bruises get. If you find that this is too harsh (on a large bruise it may be) you would then go over the whole bruise with a very thin glaze if the flesh color (mid-tone) used to paint the flesh in the 1st place. Here's a shot of the bruise in the context of the mini so you can see how it works. That's it! Our damage is done!
    Comments 2 Comments
    1. jp762's Avatar
      jp762 -
      Thats a damned good idea! Never , ever thought of doing bruises but I will now. Im thinking servitors and other bio mechanicals. Thank you for sharing.
    1. lizcam's Avatar
      lizcam -
      No problem at all.
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