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  • NMM Copper Tutorial


    First off I found Some reference pics in google image seach -With weathering-And without-The reason for two sets of reference will become clear later.Once I had a vague Idea of how the effect would look when finished I wrote down the necessaryPaint colours from this website – http://homepage.mac.com/thminiatures...uleursnmm.htmlI then picked some minis to use and figured out how the effect would work.The minis I picked were the warmachine butcher of Khadov and a GW Mordheim beastman.And now the reason for two sets of reference. Here’s a pic of a nice, bright new copper kettle -Shiny huh? Now here is a pic of an older more used and weathered copper tap minus the verdigris.Quite the difference. The older the item the darker the basic shade is, even before the weathering/dirtying process is added.This is the reason for two sets of pics. One set of clean items to use when painting the basic colours, and one set of weathered/dirty/verdigris covered pics for the weathering process.Time to get started!Colours used for the metal -

    VMC Red Leather
    VMC Medium flesh
    VMC Chocolate Brown
    VMC WhiteI made some slight changes to the recommended colours as I wanted to try and get a more accurate match to the darker, older copper pieces I had seen.Colours used for the verdigris -

    VMC Andrea Blue
    VGC Dark GreenI decided against using the suggested colour for the Verdigris wash as I wanted a paler, more chalky look.Onto the painting!PreperationAfter cleaning and assembly I would usually give the mini a base spray of matt black, followed by a thin wash of black paint to fill the gaps left by the spray, but as these are just example models then I just undercoated by hand the parts to be used - BasecoatSeveral thin coats of VMC Red Leather were applied to get a nice even base to work from -ShadingFirstly I gave the area a very thin wash of VMC Chocolate Brown to highlight the details-Then using pure VMC Chocolate Brown I carefully painted a thin line where all the darkest shadows were bordered by lighter areas -Then I thickened these lines downwards, feathering the paint off towards the areas where there would be natural highlights -Lastly I shaded all of the very darkest areas completely with the same -HighlightingStarting with a mix of 75% red leather-25% medium flesh I start doing the opposite of the dark horizon lines feathering off to the base colour-Then I’ll do the same on all the areas that have a natural highlight-and repeat with a mix of 75% medium flesh and 25% red leather-And again working through pure medium flesh up to a 50-50 mix of medium flesh and white and onto 75% white 25% medium flesh-And the final highlights of about 90% white and 10% medium flesh-Stop here if you're after pristine new copper!!!WashI like to give the area a few controlled washes of thinned chocolate brown to darken down the highlights-VerdigrisI first give the darkest areas a thin wash consisting of 75% Dark green and 25% Andrea blue-Then lastly I move on to the main areas with a heavier wash of 50-50 dark green/Andrea blue.Some detailed pics of the finished articles -And there you have it! I’ve only really been using this technique for a few weeks but it always seems to work out well. Let me know if I've missed anything or if there's another tutorial you'd like me to do!Baz
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    Scarhandpainting-173756

    Painting 15mm Imperial Romans step by step

    Welcome to Painting 15mm Imperial Romans tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for 15mm scale Imperial Romans by Grenzer Games as can be seen in this gallery.





    Before we start, some notes:


    * You can visit original article at scarhandpainting.com/blog...
    * This tutorial does not require airbrush.
    * You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
    * Please note all pictures present a huge... read more
    Scarhandpainting 03-15-2021, 07:00 PM

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