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    by Published on 08-12-2009 08:57 PM  Number of Views: 42121 
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    Hey everyone! Thanks to the encouragement of Grunts1175 I decided to make an article based off of the step by step tutorial I made for a WIP in the forums. It is a tutorial for making nice tabletop ...
    by Published on 08-09-2009 02:46 PM  Number of Views: 35445 
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    Hey all thought i'd do a simple rust tutorial that i just did on the inderneath of my trukk
    You will need the following

    Tin bitz
    Boltgun metal
    Vermin brown
    An old brush for stippling
    Step 1
    Basecoat the area's you want metal ...
    by Published on 05-13-2009 10:48 AM  Number of Views: 28057 
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    Painting guide written by Klaus Teschner
    I figured that rather than just show you how I painted the bases in our product image it would be best to cover a couple of extra alternative ways to paint your Rocky bases.  In this article I shall cover how to paint according to the climate you wish to portray.  I must state that this article is for beginners.
    Moderate climate scheme
    Stage 1
    Once I cleaned my bases I primed ...
    by Published on 04-03-2009 11:54 PM  Number of Views: 31302 

    Ujahu: part II - painting the figure

    For this article, I decided not to go into too much detail about the specific colours used and technical aspects of the paintwork, but more just document the basic process, and try to give some more broad insights into the general painting method.

    Stage 1: Just a quick pic of the mini after preparation, and ready for undercoating. As I have mentioned in other articles, I always spend some real time preparing figures properly: after removing mould lines ...
    by Published on 04-03-2009 11:22 PM  Number of Views: 32359 

    Ujahu – part I: creating the base

    I have been asked a few times recently about making bases, so I thought I would document the general process this time. It is a fairly simple base – I mean, it is nothing too inventive or original, nothing ground-breaking – but perhaps the basic process I went through might interest some of you!

    Stage 1: Here you can see that I have taken a block of hardwood, and attacked it with a saw on the front corners, to create a more interesting, contoured shape. After roughly cutting chunks from the corners with the saw, I used rough files to smooth the surface and shapes a little, and round off any sharp edges. ...
    by Published on 03-29-2009 10:02 AM  Number of Views: 54777 

    (by Massimiliano Mattei aka xMANIGHTx from Terni)
    First of all forgive me for my english, I'll try to be as clear as possible. I got back to mini painting after some years of rest. I always do. I paint for a year then stop for three or more then go back to paint... I ...
    by Published on 03-29-2009 08:00 AM  Number of Views: 26978 

    Hello!Here it is, the underwhelming tutorial article of a lifetime!Okay, now I assume you know the basics:

    Cleaning the casting residue ...
    by Published on 03-17-2009 12:12 PM  Number of Views: 261959 
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    Foliage, natural base enhancing, creative thinking and kitchen raiding
    Often you see miniatures in contests like golden daemon or iron painter having a kind of awe around them that impresses you. Often this is done by exceptional painting skill but in an area where lots of people have quite matching skills you’ll notice the winners often have a very nice and decorative base. I ...
    by Published on 03-10-2009 09:54 PM  Number of Views: 32101 
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    IntroAfter dwelling within the sick depths of my mind as a dark-surrealist illustrator for several years, I decided today to experience a breath of stale nostalgia and I found myself browsing the website that occupied most of time as a pre-teen: ...
    by Published on 02-21-2009 02:43 AM  Number of Views: 39927 
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    First off I found Some reference pics in google image seach -With weathering-And without-The reason for two sets of reference will become clear later.Once I had a vague Idea of how the effect would look when finished I wrote down the necessaryPaint colours from this website – ...
    by Published on 02-20-2009 07:18 PM  Number of Views: 26839 

    I didn’t quite know where to start as I have acquired quite a few models in a very short space of time. I decided to start with my favourite Circle model and coincidently the leader.
    Kromac.(human form)
    I wanted my circle force to based in a swampy forest, so with this in mind I set about making the base.
    WIP shot 1
     I select my main piece for the base, and set about modifying it to suit the pose I was going to give Kromac (more on that later)
     For this I used a tree stump from Antenociti's Workshop. Added a little greenstuff, and its done.
    WIP shots 2,3,4,5
     I then cut part of the base away, and stuck a bit of the blister pack on the bottom. This will later hold the water in place.
    Top shot
    I then cut up come pins to make mushrooms with and added a little greenstuff.
    WIP shot 6
     Finally I added some fungus to the edge of the tree.

    I wanted to do some more WIP shots, showing different stages of painting, but my cameras’ batteries died.
    WIP 7, 8
     After all the pieces were in place I painted the base and added some static grass
    And Real water©. (If you want to know any colours just ask). ...
    by Published on 02-04-2009 05:39 AM  Number of Views: 36587 
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    Starting to paint this model I had several considerations: to try new orc skin color scheme; to once again experiment with metal colors, which I must confess never were an easy thing for me; to document the whole process as this seems to became my habit already

    First off, the miniature has been cleaned up and primed with black.

    I’m used to paint orcs starting from their skin, this model is no exception. Catachan Green and Scorched Brown mix in 2:1 ratio has been used as a base layer. To highlight the details I have added some Chaos Black to this mix and washed the mini several times, while generally you could omit this step.

    I have used Catachan Green color for the first highlight and Catachan Green and Goblin Green mix in 2:1 ratio for the following highlight. I will limit myself to one picture here as both pictures do not differ much.

    After that I start working with the light. While my previous highlights have been done evenly all over the mini, now the highlights were put on more lighted areas only in ...
    by Published on 01-07-2009 07:39 PM  Number of Views: 35239 
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    I had seen the new Privateer press Wet palette and found it very useful.
    I had originally used something similiar, I used a wet paper towel as my palette, It wasted a ton of paint.
    I bought the Privateer press ...
    by Published on 10-27-2008 05:28 AM  Number of Views: 76750 

    Urmuth Painting Article

    painting flesh and using colour

    again everyone, it's been a long time since I wrote my last article,
    so I am afraid this new one is a long time overdue. First off, let
    me mention that the techniques and theories I discuss here are not
    the 'right' way to paint, only one particular way to paint. The
    object of the article is not so much to teach anyone how to paint in
    a specific manner, but more to give some insight into the processes
    and thoughts that I personally go through when I am painting my own
    figures. Hopefully this is interesting to somebody out there!

    has their own way of painting, and that is how it should be – you
    should never feel like you need to copy someone exactly. In my
    opinion, you are better off if you listen and watch a variety of
    other painters, and take on board the elements of their technique
    which appeal and work for you, yourself. Not everything works for
    everyone, and when it comes to high-level painting, personal taste
    plays an ever increasing role in the way painting is approached. I
    think one of the most important things to do when painting is to
    simply think about what you are trying to achieve when you set
    out to paint a figure, before you even begin.

    figure I have chosen to use for this article is Urmuth, Scars of War,
    from the Andrea 'Warlord Saga' 54mm range. This figure was a
    commission painting job, so many thanks to the client for allowing me
    to use it for this article.

    Preparing the figure

    a quick look at the figure before undercoating. I spend a lot of time
    cleaning and preparing my figures for painting. After the mould lines
    have been removed, I gently file rough areas, and then use very fine
    grade sandpaper to ensure a smooth surface. The sandpaper I use on
    most metal figures ranges from grade 600, up to 1200. Little
    rectangles of sandpaper stuck on the end of a small stick-like
    instrument (I used a piece of brass rod flattened at one end) can
    help to reach the smallest areas of the figure.

    this, I scrub the figure all over with a stiff-bristled brush, like a
    black synthetic dremmel brush. If your figure is of a harder metal,
    such as the GW figures, you can even use a rougher brush – I have a
    brass bristled one that I use carefully on a lot of metal figures.
    But be sure to test it first on something unimportant – you don't
    want to be overzealous and use a brush that will leave your figure
    scratched to oblivion and ruined! After
    this, I give the figure another scrub in hot water with some
    dish-washing liquid, using an old toothbrush. This makes sure that
    any oils from your hands etc. are removed from the surface before the
    undercoat is applied.

    the figure is dry, if there are still some rough or pitted areas, I
    use some very thin washes of Milliput dissolved in water to fill in
    the rough texture on the surface. In my opinion, the best Milliput to
    use for this ...
    by Published on 10-24-2008 10:58 PM  Number of Views: 35494 

    In this article I will show you how I have developed and painted the lava bases I have made for the Iron Giants army.  I've been waiting for a while to write this article because, well, someone else said they wanted to use it and they haven't contacted me to let me know any different, so here is what I've done and you get it free!
    Obviously to start with you need the right materials to build a base like this.  For mine, I started with cork pot-mats you use to ...
    by Published on 10-06-2008 08:40 AM  Number of Views: 66777 
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    Hello again everyone. I have been playing around with the new Citadel Washes and I must say that I love them! I recently ...
    by Published on 08-07-2008 09:58 AM  Number of Views: 33232 

    After spending a bit of time speed painting my orks, quite a few people have been asking me about the techniques I've been ...
    by Published on 07-15-2008 12:24 PM  Number of Views: 32732 

    Hello,This article will walk you through creating an arid or dried earth style base.  The techniques described here should ...
    by Published on 05-22-2008 04:42 PM  Number of Views: 19498 

    My wife and I recently took at trip up to Toronto for our 3rd Wedding Aniversary (16 years together).  While there ...
    by Published on 04-21-2008 09:40 AM  Number of Views: 55649 

    Alrighty now. Here we go. First article I've made for any site, hopefully you all find it useful in some way so please please please comment on it once you finish going through it.
    Here's the concept. The undead march at night. Not in the morning. Not at noon. Not at tea time. At night. At least that's my opinion and I'm sticking to it. So my goal was to create a paintjob that really reflected this idea.  At night the cells in your eyes responsible for colour vision (cones) just don't function, so you're left with pretty much black and white vision (rods), but that's kind of boring, so instead I tried to stay away from bright colours, and stuck to neutral and desaturated tones as much as I could.

    This guide is broken down into sections and goes layer by layer through the process. I mostly used layering and washing/glazing through out the entire project. If you don't know how to do that, then please look them up in the articles section as I won't be explaining them as I go. I suppose this is enough talking so I suppose I'll get on with it.

    Page 1: Concept and Painting the Bones
    Page 2: Painting the Leather Straps and Cloth
    Page 3: Painting the Metals
    Page 4: Painting the Shield
    Page 5: Painting the Base
    Page 6: Finished

    Please assemble and prime your model before you begin, I've used black primer and I can't guarantee the same results if you use a different colour. I've used citadel paints, including some foundation paints, so again if you are using different paints use a conversion table or something like that or just your best guess.>>

    I. Bones>>

    Step 1: Basecoat the bones of the skeleton in a 1:1 mixture of Adeptus Battlegrey and Dheneb Stone (both foundation paints). Try to get a nice solid colour to start with. I find if you've watered the paint down two layers is probably enough. You don't need to be too neat, just make sure you get all the bones.

    Step 2: Apply a wash made of a 1:1:1 mixture of Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Graveyard Earth over the entire model. This wash mixture will get used throughout the entire process so if you plan on doing this a lot you may want to mix up a pot of it, or just find a way to keep it from drying out.

    Step 3: Once the wash is dry mix up a 1:1 mixture of Codex Grey and Graveyard Earth and layer it onto the bones, being careful to highlight only the upper surfaces of the bones, and leaving the recesses and lower surfaces darker. Apply a bit more of the mix to the back of the model, as for this one I've chosen the light to be coming from above and behind, you can use any direction you want, just keep it constant through your painting.

    Step 4: Apply another wash made of a 1:1:1 mixture of Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Ultramarines Blue over the bones. Just apply it fairly thin and let it get into the recesses of the bones, and do its own thing. If you apply it too thick you'll tone down your last high light a lot so try not to be too liberal with it.

    Step 5: When the wash is dry apply a 1:1 mixture of Graveyard Earth and Ice Blue to the upper surfaces and much like in Step 3, but just try to make the highlights thinner, and leave more dark showing. Again add a bit more highlighting to the back, or whichever direction you have chosen for your light source.

    Step 6: Apply a 1:1:1 mixture of Graveyard Earth, Ice Blue, and Space Wolves Grey to the upper most surfaces like before. This time don't highlight all the same places as before, but try to only highlight where the moonlight would be hitting, this may take a while to figure out, but just go with what feels right and it'll turn out fine.

    Step 7: Now finally apply a highlight of Space Wolves Grey to only the top surfaces of the bones, and as before only do the bones that would be most lit by the moon.

    *I have also at this stage cleaned up the model by painting Chaos Black over any areas that got paint on them that weren't bone.

    Ok so we're done the bones, let's move on to the leather straps and cloth.


    II. Straps/Leather

    Step 1: Basecoat all the straps and leather bits with a 1:1 mixture of Adeptus Battlegrey and Khemri Brown (both foundation paints). Again aim for a nice solid colour, but now remember to be careful so you don't have to repaint any of the bone.

    Step 2: Apply a wash made of 1:1:1 Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Graveyard Earth. Try not to get it on the bones too much, but remember the same wash was used early on in the bones, so if you get it where the bones and leather meet it shouldn't really change the colours too much.

    Step 3: Ok, I'm sorry. I missed taking this picture, but it's pretty simple step so it shouldn't affect you too much. Apply a highlight of a 1:1 mix of Codex Grey and Graveyard Earth. Try to only highlight the tops and upper portions to leave some shading from the other steps. >>

    Step 4: Apply a wash made of a mix of 1:1:1 Chaos Black, Codex Grey and Ultramarines Blue. Apply it more or less like Step 2, just make sure it's not too thick that it tones down the highlights from Step 3 too much.

    Step 5: Apply a final highlight of 1:1:1 Codex Grey, Space Wolves Grey, and Bleached Bone. Apply this to only the very top of the straps much like the last highlight for the bones.

    III. Cloth

    Step 1: Apply a basecoat of Liche Purple. Like always a solid colour is the goal, do as many layers as needed.

    Step 2: Apply a pretty liberal wash of 1:1:1 Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Graveyard Earth. Try not to be too messy at this stage. You might have to do a couple separate washes for this step, just make sure they are dry before you apply the second coat of it.

    Step 3: Apply a highlight of 1:1 Liche Purple and Scab Red. Try to leave some of the darker dirtier purple showing, but it's not vital at this stage to leave a lot.

    Step 4: Do a highlight of 1:1:1 Liche Purple, Scab Red and Ice Blue. The colour transition is a little harsh so try not to apply it too heavily. Do your best to leave the reddy purple showing in some places.

    Step 5: Apply a final highlight of 1:1 Liche Purple and Space Wolves Grey. Put this only on the edges of the cloth, it should be pretty bright, and you don't want to make it too bright overall.

    Step 6: Do a careful wash of 1:1 Chaos Black and Liche Purple only in the recesses and lower surfaces of the cloth. Try not to get it on the final highlights if possible. You really only want to clean up the shadows and where the purples meet other colours.

    Just a little bit more and we're done this part, so let's move on to the metals.


    IV. Metals

    *Ok, I'm going to apologize in advance for these pictures... They were the best I could do under the circumstances. Try to focus on the helmet or the random plates over the sword. When I get to the shield there are better pictures of the process. >>

    Step 1: Apply a basecoat of Boltgun Metal to the metal bits. Again be careful and aim for a solid colour.

    Step 2: Apply a wash of 1:1:1 Chaos Black, Codex Grey, and Graveyard earth over the metals. Cover them completely, but don't let it pool too much. Two successive washes may be needed.


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