• Painting Reaper Bones -- Wench (Townsfolk)

    INTRODUCTIONThis is the third in a series of articles dedicated to painting the Reaper Bones Kickstarter minis, this time with videos! The format is going to be text, picture, then video. It is intended to help out new painters that may find their way to CMON to learn to paint. Welcome, new and old!For this How-I-Paint, I'm limiting myself to the paints that were offered as part of the Paint Set 1 in the Kickstarter. These aren't the paints that must be used of course, but as they should be available to a wide number of painters, that's what I've done. Substitute what color you would wish, and whatever brand as well.As of this writing, the Kickstarter Bones figures are not available, but I did purchase the metal figure for the Wench, part of Reaper's Dark Heaven Legends "Townsfolk II" (#02584) pack. The Bones' wench is part of the Townsfolk grouping of the Vampire level in the Kickstarter. The first article was on whether or not to prime the Bones line using some already released Bones figures. You can read that one here. I prefer my minis primed, and use gray automotive primer, as shown below.So, the figure is in the state where I would be painting her if she was the Bones material. This first video is the basic things that I use, and some other information. The actual painting starts in the second video.I started by painting the base skin with Reaper Master Series "Fair Skin" (#9047). Fairly simple, paint the parts that are skin. Next, I painted the skin shadows with "Tanned Skin" (#9044). I realized that I messed the shadows up really bad on the leg. Then, I painted the skin highlights with "Pure White" (#9039). This fixes a little bit of the problem with the shadows, and so we continue. I next show how I attempt (and repeatedly fail) to paint the eye of the mini, first with "Pure White" (#9039) then Grass Green (#9014). Eyes are one of the most difficult parts to paint for many people, and often are painted first because of that. I have since learned of a better technique that my ham-fisted attempts, where the eye is painted dark first, with black or some other color, then a brush stroke from each corner of the eye towards the center with off-white, finished up with a dot of pupil color. At this point, I was in too deep to start over, so kept going. Next I moved to the dress of the mini, first a base with "Sapphire Blue" (#9016), followed by a shading of "Imperial Purple" (#9023) and finished with a highlight of "Pure White" (#9039) evenly mixed with the "Sapphire Blue". I then painted the ruffles of the dress on the mini, first with a base of "Pure White" (#9039) and then a wash of "Sunlight Yellow" (#9008). Next up is the hair on the mini. I started with a base of "Muddy Brown" (#9028). Then a highlight of "Tanned Skin" (#9044). I did think about adding a third color to push the highlights up more, but decided against it. Now it is getting down to the smaller areas, and I painted some details on the mini. First was the lacing and trim on the dress. Began with a base of "Grass Green" (#9014) followed by a highlight of "Sunlight Yellow" (#9008). To finish up the details, I started out on her shoes with a simple base of Tanned Leather (9031), then gave the hiplace straps the same color. I gave them a wash of Muddy Brown (9028). I'd been using the Muddy Brown for the base, which I also gave a wash of Pure Black (9037). All that was left then was her lips, Blood Red (9003) and then the jewelry metallics. I went with a mix of Tanned Leather (9031) and Sunlight Yellow (9008). This gave a rather nice brassy, mustard yellow. That did the edges of the hiplace amulet, the ankle bracelet, and the two bracelets on her hand. So there she is. All said, I painted on it for two hours, which is not a lot. This is meant to be a table top standard, and isn't too far off from my average for that. For a display model, slow down, do more thinner layers of shading and highlight. If pressed for time, cut out the highlights, possibly even a lot of the shading.Should you use this guide to paint your own copy of the figure, be aware that I noticed after I was nearly finished that the dress could have been painted in three separate colors: the skirt, the shirt top, and the corset. I have seen a version of the wench done like this, and it made me want to start over. Luckily, come March 2013, I can! And I don't even have to strip the figure of paint!
    Comments 6 Comments
    1. TrystanGST's Avatar
      TrystanGST -
      Awesome stuff PegaZus. I can't wait until March!
    1. theeo123's Avatar
      theeo123 -
      Seeing you've apparently gotten your hands on several of the bones series mini's already, may I ask a slightly off-topic question?

      How is the quality/detail of the mini's in general?
      reaper promised a high level of detail, and then decided to retire my precious precious P-65 line.

      as a total stickler for fine detail is there any chance I'm going to be happy with this new line of plastics?
    1. PegaZus's Avatar
      PegaZus -
      Quote Originally Posted by theeo123 View Post
      Seeing you've apparently gotten your hands on several of the bones series mini's already, may I ask a slightly off-topic question?

      How is the quality/detail of the mini's in general?
      reaper promised a high level of detail, and then decided to retire my precious precious P-65 line.

      as a total stickler for fine detail is there any chance I'm going to be happy with this new line of plastics?
      I've been using metal stand ins for the Bones, but the Bones orcs that I had painted on the primer article (link here) were untouched out of the box. No trimming mold lines, no flash removal, etc. I've read that it is a little hard to clean perfectly. But it's no failcast, if that's what is worrying you. There is the troubling issue of bent plastic. That should be fixable by a boiling water bath and then an ice bath while holding it past the reflex point. So fixable, but an extra step.

      There are a small amount of Bones released already. The Kickstarter was just to speed up the process of getting the molds made. The three orcs were less than $5, so if you've got access to a FLGS you might pick up a package.
    1. theeo123's Avatar
      theeo123 -
      Quote Originally Posted by PegaZus View Post
      I've been using metal stand ins for the Bones, but the Bones orcs that I had painted on the primer article (link here) were untouched out of the box. No trimming mold lines, no flash removal, etc. I've read that it is a little hard to clean perfectly. But it's no failcast, if that's what is worrying you. There is the troubling issue of bent plastic. That should be fixable by a boiling water bath and then an ice bath while holding it past the reflex point. So fixable, but an extra step.

      There are a small amount of Bones released already. The Kickstarter was just to speed up the process of getting the molds made. The three orcs were less than $5, so if you've got access to a FLGS you might pick up a package.
      sadly no FLGS in my area, but I've learned to cope, more i was just worried about how much detail was in the finished product
      I've had plastic minis that look like a flamethrower was taken to it's face before shipping, just poor quality in general.

      didn't realize they were already out though, I'll have to try and grab some
      thanks for the info I appreciate it
    1. PegaZus's Avatar
      PegaZus -
      Quote Originally Posted by theeo123 View Post
      sadly no FLGS in my area, but I've learned to cope, more i was just worried about how much detail was in the finished product
      I've had plastic minis that look like a flamethrower was taken to it's face before shipping, just poor quality in general.

      didn't realize they were already out though, I'll have to try and grab some
      thanks for the info I appreciate it
      No problem. Reaper plans to release everything from the Kickstarter into their Bones line. Not sure exactly when, but they've had their injection molding machine arrive and installed, so it shouldn't be too much longer before they're producing. If you check out their website, they have 29 Bones that can be bought, and only the sets of 3 figures run more than $5. You could always get some cannon fodder figures, just to check out the detail on them before you splurge on much else.

      I do recommend if you get one, to shade one figure somehow. Primer, a wash, etc. That's just to be able to see the details in the figure. The plastic is stark white, and makes it hard to pick details out.
    1. ced1106's Avatar
      ced1106 -
      THANKS. I really appreciate how you stuck to the Reaper Learn to Paint Kit, as many of us n00b Bones supporters only have these paints. I also find selecting colors to be frustrating and difficult, so your tutorial certainly helps in that department. I think a single-color color scheme works well for new painters. I'm gonna try red, myself. I hear it's a painful color to paint, so with me luck!

      I'd really like to see these figures painted from a pre-shade then glazes, but that's not the Reaper Learn to Paint Kit style, until you get to Kit 3: Intermediate Skin. Conventional water-based washes to shade the figure won't work because it will bead, but I hear a 50/50 mix of matte and water will work (cf. Les's Wash).
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