materiales:
-alambres de varios grosores, incluso cable de muchos hilos....
-cola blanca
-papel higienico
-algo para hacer las copas yo he utilizado una especie de esponja no se su nombre ya que en la bolsa no lo ponia
materials:
barium-wirethickness,wireevenmany threads....
white-tail
-toilet paper
-something to makethe cupsI've useda spongeandhis nameis notin the bagdo notput
PASO 1
coger los alambres y enrollarlos hasta la mitad, para diferenciar la zona del tronco y de las ramas.luego empezar a colocar las ramas a vuestro gusto enrollado algunos alambres entre si dejando otros sueltos..(dejad abajo unos alambres de los mas gruesos que nos ayudaran a que el arbol se mantenga de pie y... read more
Step 2. Colour Primer.I sprayed the model with Colour Primer: Skeleton Bone from The Army Painter. Excellent coverage and nice matt surface. Now the model is almost done... almost!
Step 3. Basecoating.Now it's time for regular painting. I painted in flat block colours (no highlights, ink washes or outlining); using Goblin Green (GW), Red (Warpaints), Metal (Warpaints), Astronomicon Grey (GW)*and Bacl (Warpaints). Notice how I stick to fairly bright colours - the Quickshade will tone it all down in the next step.If I made a mistake on the Bone, I touched up with a spot of Bleached Bone (GW).
Step 4. Shade with Quickshade Dip.Even though it's called a dip, I just painted on the Quickshade also from The Army Painter. I chose the mid dip called Strong Tone.*It's dead easy to use, just remember to shake the tin before use, stick to an old brush (or you'll ruin it for sure), make sure the Quickshade doesn't pool. Next the model is left to dry for 24+ hours outside in the garage - it's nasty stuff...
Step 5. Matt Varnish.I finshed off with a few very thin coats of Anti-Shine Matt Varnish to remove the gloss from the dip. That's it! All in all I spend less than 20 minutes on this model. I know it won't win Golden Deamon, but it looks OK for my Deathwing Army.


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