Testor\'s Dull Cote and Gloss Cote
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Thread: Testor\'s Dull Cote and Gloss Cote

  1. #1
    SoulFire_pt
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    Default Testor\'s Dull Cote and Gloss Cote

    I have finally been able to get my hands on a couple of these, and I was wondering... are there any special do\'s or don\'ts?

    More importantly... the cans seem offly small (to someone used to GW\'s 400ml ones...) how many models are you able to spray before it runs out?

    Thanks

    Cheers,

  2. #2

    Default It might be different but...

    I haven\'t been able to obtain Testors but I have found a German equivalent with which I am very happy.
    My own personal method is to seal with gloss initially. This provides the protection and seal. I then simply use the dullcoat to remove the shine.
    I use a VERY small mount. I don\'t really even spray the model. I generally give a quick blast on the can and wave my mini around in the fumes. I know that sounds stupid, but it\'s the best way I can describe the process I use. Occasionally I will give another, equally brief second coat if the model needs it.

    Going back to your original question, a small can lasts me absolutely ages...!

  3. #3

    Default

    I use an airbrush to spray Humbrol MattCoat (a small pot has lasted me about 3 months), but I\'m sure these tips will work equally well for spray cans.

    1. Spray outdoors or in a completely dust free environment. Spray varnishes can pick up bits of dust and stick them to your model. Bad!

    2. Shake the can very well, like for 5 minutes! Pot varnish can \'white up\' if not stirred properly. The same is true for cans.

    3. Put the can in warm (not hot!!) water for 5 minutes before spraying. This is an old trick for smoothing out spray paint finishes, but it might also work for varnishes.

    4. Don\'t blow on your model, let it dry naturally. Your breath has a lot of water vapour in it. At best this can turn drying matt a bit glossy, at worst you could spit on your model, not see it, and spray another coat of varnish over it...preserving your spit for eternity and allowing future scientists to take your DNA and clone you for miniature painter theme parks that will inevitably fail with disastrous consequences and horrendous loss of life. Have I gone too far?:D

  4. #4

    Default

    What about drying times in between the different layers of spraying varnish on a model?

  5. #5

    Default

    ya . . they are ridiculously small . . I\'m suprised how long my dull coat has lasted though - not any more than normal just more than what I expected . . .

    I seal in bulk so I\'d say 50ish 60ish (with two coats) so prolly north of 100

    I do one of gloss and 2 of dull - mostly because I miss spots and leave gloss in places so that second coat of dull is to spot cover any remaing glossy areas

  6. #6

    Default

    oh! I usually apply new coats about an hour after the first is applied . . . I dont drench them at any level so they dry fairly quickly . . .

  7. #7

    Default

    Anybody use an airbrush? Anybody?

    I use a basic, and very affordable Pashe H (Badger 350 is also good) and I find that the drying time between coats (non drench) is about 10 minutes. Not sure about cans because you won\'t be able to control the amount of varnish as effectivly. Rule of thumb? If it\'s matt, it\'s dry.

    If you can afford one, get an airbrush and a moisture trap.

    If you can\'t afford one...........um.........stick with a brush?:duh:

  8. #8

    Default when using Dullcote

    Here is a very important \"don\'t\" I\'ve discovered when using Dullcote. If you\'re using Citadel Storm Blue right next to white on your model, the blue will \"bleed\" slightly into the white when you spray it with Dullcote, leaving a purplish stain on the white areas. If you really need to use dark blue and white together I suggest using Midnight Blue or Game Color Stormy Blue instead.

  9. #9

    Default

    Relative to drying time, it can vary with humidity. Be careful to let it dry completely in between coats or the \"dull\" coat will have a sheen to it.:idea:

  10. #10
    -Percival-
    Guest

    Default

    Some other tips...

    Never let the first blast be at the mini...I hit the side of my box...see what the flow looks like...and them spray the mini...

    Don\'t spray during High Humidity...or High Heat...(High Heat can cause the paint to Frost)


  11. #11
    Coffin Dodger / Keymaster airhead's Avatar
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    Default Brush on

    I have always used the brush on dulcoat. I feel that I can add a little extra where the wear points are on table top minis (the sword or any other thing sticking up to be grabbed).

    Be careful with the brush-on with metalics. For some reason the brush-on loosens the metalic from the binder, allowing the metalic to \"run\". Cure is to let the mini set for about a week to \"cure out\".

  12. #12

    Default another tip

    After you finished spraying, turn the can upside down and spray until only compressed air comes out of it. This way you make sure there is no varnish left in the spray tip, so that way it can\'t get blocked by dried varnish :flip:

  13. #13
    SoulFire_pt
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    Default

    My thanks for all the answers, this is turning into a \"how to use varnish\" tutorial... :flip:

    Airhead\'s idea of brushing more varnish on the features more likely to get damaged/handled is great, I think I will try the following method (waiting 24h between coats just to be sure):

    1) Spray with Testor\'s Gloss Cote
    2) Brush on Testor\'s Gloss Cote on problem areas
    3) Spray with Testor\'s Dull Cote
    4) Again with Dull Cote just to be sure
    5) Use Gloss on things like gems and fresh blood

    My guess is that it will result in a tough but smooth and dull finish. :)

    (Yes I\'m aware that it will take a week... :P )

  14. #14
    Coffin Dodger / Keymaster airhead's Avatar
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    Default Instead of glosscoat

    In the days of Testor\'s Enameles, we used to use Krylon Crystal Clear to finish up a model, then brush on dulcoat to flatten the finish. I haven\'t used crystal clear on any of my more recent figs, so I cannot recommend it. Anyone else use this stuff?

  15. #15

    Default

    So, airbrush users, what\'s the best way for cleaning this stuff out of the airbrush when you\'re done using it? I assume it\'s not water like what would be used for acrylics -- I have a feeling that these clear coats don\'t play well with water.

    (For those keeping track, my airbrush compressor is finally in town, and I get to play with my airbrush tonight after work for the first time! I feel like a 5 year old the night before X-mas! :D )

    Originally posted by Panza
    4. Don\'t blow on your model, let it dry naturally. Your breath has a lot of water vapour in it. At best this can turn drying matt a bit glossy, at worst you could spit on your model, not see it, and spray another coat of varnish over it...preserving your spit for eternity and allowing future scientists to take your DNA and clone you for miniature painter theme parks that will inevitably fail with disastrous consequences and horrendous loss of life. Have I gone too far?:D
    Panza is my hero. lol lol lol

  16. #16
    Coffin Dodger / Keymaster airhead's Avatar
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    Default Solvent

    Originally posted by Temperance
    ...what\'s the best way for cleaning this stuff out of the airbrush when you\'re done using it?
    You need to use a solvent to clean the gun up. Lacquer thinner, MEK, Acetone, etc. I prefer laquer thinner - cheap, available, not as harmful as some of the others. Turn the pressure up an spray wide open Blow this stuff OUTSIDE. never near anything hot or burning. Remember, you are atomizing a flamable liquid. Once you think the gun is clean, flush one more cup through it. Remove the needle and rub it clean with a cloth/rag wetted with thinner.

    Get a cheaper (possibly even single action) gun for this stuff. Don\'t want it going through your custom micron.

    Follow up with a little alcohol.

    Never use windex or amonia in a gun - it attacks the chrome.

    Peter, have fun. Just got my Sophie from reaper (73 mm) and am thinking of airbrushing the skin before I do anything else. Looking forward to seeing some of you airbrush work soon.

    One day I\'ll tell you about automotive clearcoats - very similar to spraying superglue. Gotta clean them guns extreemly well or they are froze up next time.

  17. #17

    Default

    The single most important thing to remember about using an airbrush is to wear a mask, and a good vapour one at that.

    I use lacquer thinner to clean the Humbrol matt-coat residue out of my Pashe H and it certainly does the trick, but without the mask this is a hazardous procedure. Thinner particles are no fun if breathed in, and if you feel like thinning your acrylics and spraying them, they\'re even worse.

    Just ask yourself how much your lungs are worth to you.

    Oops, did I go too serious? :moon:

  18. #18

    Default

    being in the UK we have no supplier for Dullcote products but I managed to get hold of two small brush on pots directly from America (US law prevents sending spraycans out of the country).
    Feeling very pleased with myself I immediatly brushed it on a new mini - DISASTER - all the paint began to lift off!!!
    Do not use dullcote directly on acrylic paint.
    I know use a spray on Matt from Winsor and newton which I find gives superb results and is good enough to stop gaming pieces getting damaged.However I do occaisionally go back to dullcote but I put on a brushing of Winsor and newton gloss first.

  19. #19
    Coffin Dodger / Keymaster airhead's Avatar
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    Default Huh?

    Originally posted by millstoneman
    ...I immediatly brushed it on a new mini - DISASTER - all the paint began to lift off!!!
    Do not use dullcote directly on acrylic paint...
    I have never had this happen with the brush-on with the exception of metalics that had not cured for 24 hours. I wonder if this is pecular to the binder in the paint line you used? I have used GW\'s paints almost exclusively for acrylics, but I have a few \"off\" brand bottles around.

    Are you over-thinning your paints to the point that they have no binder left?

    I used to have this trouble in the days of enamels, but a light coat of Krylon cristal clear cured that.


  20. #20

    Default What to do if you want to ruin the mini.

    Let me begin by saying that I have only myself to blame. I made a very similar mistake less than two months ago and now here I am.

    I saw this thread a few days back and ignored it because I am so very smart that I do not require the help of lesser minds. So, tonight I took 4 of my very best models out into the dark to give them a good laquering of Testors. Mind you, I had never used Testors and I was starting with my best models. I stuck them all on a cardboard box and released the hounds, as it were. Let\'s just say there is enough varnish on these models to stop a bullet. On top of that it was hot and humid. Exactly the way it was two months ago when I ruined a unit of dwarf warriors with a can of Krylon Matte Finish. (Learning from your mistakes is the mark of genious.) So I got inside to find that 2 of my models look like they have a light dusting of snow on them. The others look like they have been dragged through white dust. My only hope is that some of this white tragedy will fade as the Testors dries. I just flushed an easy 40 hours of work down the toilet. And I have only me to blame!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:flame:

    So, if you just read my post and you think that I am an idiot, well... ok, you\'re right, but do yourself a favor and read this thread again so you aren\'t the idiot next time.

    barkel

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