Is anyone here a Rackham painter, or friends with one? - Page 2
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Thread: Is anyone here a Rackham painter, or friends with one?

  1. #21

    Default

    it is not the rackham style and far away from their perfection in dealing with weathering effects, but maybe it helps a bit to find a way on how they do what they to.
    Quoted from the headblast-forums, where i explained this:

    after request on my tryouts for darker and older looking NMM-style i decided to do a small tutorial how to achive the look and what colours to use.

    some examples:







    While i can´t make step-by-step pictures of it because of my wet-in-wet painting, i photoshopped some steps for a simple blending on a flat surface.


    here´s the pic:




    stage1: i used to paint the armourplates i painted a medium grey over a black basecoat. The question for bascoating white or black is a case of personal taste here.

    stage2: Once the basic layer was dry i used some white with the grey to produce lighter colours for layering. I painted a very thin layer of the mixed colour on the upper half of the plate (depends on where the sky should be on the part) and used a bit more white in the mix to blend into this wet layer. I continued this up to pure white on the upper edge.

    stage3: I did the same thing as above by adding black to the grey for the lower half. This was done up to a nicely dark grey. The whole area was painted very wet so it should be still wet when it comes to the next stage.

    stage4: Now it was time to add smoke to the plate. I did this by mixing smoke with the basic grey 1:1 and painted some thin layers on the still wet lower half. Skome creates a soft blending from greys to browns with this.

    stage5: I added pure smoke thinned down with water on the plate and again blended it into the wet colours. Now i decided to let it dry.

    stage6: Last step was to create a thin wash with smoke. Don´t be afraid of the big pigments, smoke is apllied in several thin layers so ít will work. To create the wash i used pure water again. It is possible to use valejo glaze medium, but i figured out, that it makes no diffference with smoke, I carefully washed the area short above the plates edges with smoke to get a good dark look. Now i used pure white on the edge and painted a thin reflection directly on the edge. Since smoke is still wet, it produces a light brown. When dryied i used thinned down white on very sharp edges to get the reflections a bit brighter ...


    Now it should be possible to produce a similar \"old effect\" just by using darker greys for the NMM, but i like the brown look :)

  2. #22

    Default Oooooh

    great thready-message and pics. I\'m going to print that out and have ago next time I put brush to lead.

    Thanks!

  3. #23
    Shroud
    Guest

    Default

    As for me, I was interested in learning how (exactly how) to paint this orange-copper NMM:





    Jarrett

    (PS my plan was to try a base of Vermin brown, which was suggested by Cyril).

  4. #24

    Default Goatman...you are too modest...

    Originally posted by goatman
    it is not the rackham style and far away from their perfection in dealing with weathering effects,
    It\'s pretty much perfect in my book! Thanks for sharing that with us...:D

  5. #25

    Default

    i\'ve looked at that pic a number of time shroud with the same thought.
    i was thinking dark flesh (shade) and bronzed flesh/vomit brown as (highlight).

    i can\'t do it :(

  6. #26

    Default

    Originally posted by frenchkid
    quick!!!! where\'s the shower :D
    And kittykat could you post how you do it ??? I find that getting those sort of \"weathered/mottled yet smooth finishes to fabrics\" to be quit hard (also have to admite I only tried once, before giving up in frustration)
    Ok well, the model\'s still being worked on atm, I\'ll post pics when he\'s done. But here\'s a quick description of what I\'ve been doing. I use a wet pallete, as I need to keep mixed colours wet for quite a while when doing this. I\'ve been working on a solitary wolfen 1 and this is what I\'ve done with his skirt:

    1. Prime white.

    2. Using very thin paints (sort of milky consistency thinned with a mix of water and flow aid) basecoat with thinned GW Graveyard Earth.

    3. Let dry, give another coat. The paint will start to look mottled, but with thinned layers hopefully should also look smooth.

    4. Wash the entire area once dry with very thinned Vallejo Smoke. Repeat until you get the depth of shadows you want.

    5. Once dry, then mix up some GW Imperial Purple with some GW Ghostly Grey and Graveyard Earth. You want a sort of lavender colour. Again, this should be really quite thin (as described above).

    6. Now with your loaded brush, dab off the excess and just lightly dab the paint around the bottom edge if the skirt so it basically builds up a mottled bit of Graveyard Earth, fading to purple at the edges. Repeat until you get the desired effect.

    7. I also washed a bit more of this colour into the deepest shadows.

    8. Then using a slightly thicker mix of Graveyard Earth and Bleached Bone, highlight some areas further up the skirt.

    9. Repeat the process but add more of your lavender mix in to the lower part of the skirt.

    10. Then, once you have a nice transition between the two colours (remember here that we are not going for your standard layering or sunburst effect- we want that mottled look, so don\'t make these transition areas too smooth or too even
    ;) ) you can move on to adding some texture to your fabric.

    11. Now, I wanted the fabric to have an obvious weave to it. So what I did was similar to painting fur. I used a watered down mix of GW Bleached Bone and GW Skull White, and my trusty 3-0 brush.

    12. Load your brush, wiping off any excess paint, then place lines going in one direction across the mini- as if painting fur, (like this /////) but be very delicate as the lines need to be very light and very thin, concentrate on the raised areas where you are most likely to see the weave of the cloth.

    13. Then repeat the process going the other way to create \"crosshatching\" like pen and ink illustrators do when shading areas.

    14. You should then have a really nice patchy looking, yet smooth fabirc texture.

    15. Fin!:D

    Regards

    Kat

  7. #27

    Default

    You can connect you on the Confrontation forum (in english, i imagine you don\'t speak french ;), and ask all yours questions...

    http://en-forum.confrontation.fr/

    Tchao
    Y.

  8. #28

    Default

    Originally posted by Shroud
    As for me, I was interested in learning how (exactly how) to paint this orange-copper NMM:
    My 2 cents to your question. I\'m far from being a Rackham painter :D but speaking french, I will try to summarize what is said from time to time on french forums.... None of these recipes is precisely given for the thermo-warrior, but maybe this will you a hint....

    Cyril effectively told us on the french-mailing list Figurines_fr the following recipe for copper :
    base : vermin brown
    light : wermin brown + a drop of bleached bone then add white to pure white
    shadow : dark flesh.
    If it is too pale, just add in the end a vermin brown wash on all the surface.
    Oxydation may be done with Codex Grey, Goblin Green and White.


    And old recipe given by a Rackham painter a long time ago on the Confrontation forum (so not especially for this thermo-warrior) With Vallejo paints : on a white undercoat, apply a fine layer of orange brown (981) progressively lightened with \'beige\' (is that right in English ???) (919). Then more and more white up to pure white.

    Another recipe given by Jakovazor, a former Rackham painter (vallejo paint, sorry don\'t have any number) on the same forum :
    Base : Red Leather
    Shadow : a tip of Black Red or any darkkish brown
    Light : Orange Brown, then Mat Yellow then White

    Hope this will help.
    And if you want, I may ask for U the question on the french forum directly to a Rackham painter (but don\'t be in a hurry for any answer ; he may answer right away... in a month.... or never :D)

    Regards, athanor

  9. #29

    Default

    Some great tips there, thanks! :D I\'m guessing that those layers of shade and highlight are built up quite thinly over a white undercoat, but I could be wrong.

    Regards

    Kat

  10. #30
    Shroud
    Guest

    Default

    Thank you very much, athanor!

    Jarrett

  11. #31

    Default 2 months later

    Message original : athanor
    And if you want, I may ask for U the question on the french forum directly to a Rackham painter (but don\'t be in a hurry for any answer ; he may answer right away... in a month.... or never :D)
    Sorry to exhume so lately this thread but it is not my fault :D I long ago asked Shroud\'s question on the French Confrontation forum and only got yesterday the answer for a Rackham painter, Akaris !!! :o
    If U wanna have a look, it is here

    For non french-speakers, here is the translation.
    The colours used are the same either for that precise TNB Dwarf either for the more recent Dwarf Warchariot.
    For that one, Rackham team seems to paint only with Vallejo paints. Although.... don\'t know why... but they always seem to be reluctant to admit that they may use GW paints :D Really don\'t know why !! lol :innocent:
    So the paints are (with french equivalents in Prince August) :
    Hull Red 985 (Marron Royal PA 146)
    Black red 859 (Rouge noir PA 35)
    Cavalry brown 982 (Marron rouge PA 137)
    Red cuir 818 (Cuir rouge PA 136)
    Orange brown 981 (Marron orange PA 131)
    Red 947 (Vermillon rouge sang PA 29)
    Flat yellow 953 (Jaune mat PA 15)
    White 951 (Blanc PA 1)
    Ivory 918 (Ivoire PA 5)

    Sorry no hint on the precise mixes... You will have to test (didn\'t have time to do my own tests yet....).

    Anyway hope this will help a little....

  12. #32

    Default

    Now thats funny :) Akaris was a short time on the headblast-board and behaved like an ass .... (i still think Smoke is great :D )

    We thought he might be a rackham painter, after he left the forum, even if he never showed something.
    His behaviour was a bit rude when we talked about different oppinions on painting, but if he is a Rackham-painter he´s the only one who knows what´s right and what not ;)

    just my 2 Euro-cent ...

  13. #33

    Default No

    Not me. I haven\'t painted any Rackham....

    *sorry* couldn\'t resist :D

  14. #34

    Default

    Originally posted by goatman
    Now thats funny :) Akaris was a short time on the headblast-board and behaved like an ass .... (i still think Smoke is great :D )
    I still think he was a bit misunderstood....

    But you are right. His communication skills were less than excellent :P

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