Space Marine WIP Part 1. - Page 2
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Thread: Space Marine WIP Part 1.

  1. #21

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    Superb piece ofwork. Love the attention to detail on every part.

    I actually think that a bare head suits the body more than one with a helmet.

  2. #22

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    absolutely stunning go man go:bouncy:

  3. #23

  4. #24

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    the poor man\'s head looks so tiny with all that armor lol

    nice work

  5. #25

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    Any chance you could put him next to another normal sized marine so we can get a sense of scale?

    Alex

  6. #26
    giganticdark
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    Thanks again for your comments.

    PegaZus - A hole is drilled into the model and the steel ball is inserted.

    Bigdennis52 - It wasn\'t until I posted the pictures of the Marine with the shoulder pads that I realised that they were just too big, making a small head look even smaller! Now after some sawing, grinding, filling and cursing they are thankfully of a more suitable proportion. :)

    alextheartist - Unfortunately I don\'t have a \'normal sized Marine\' for comparison as I have never bought one! :o
    However, this Marine is 1/15 scale so if we are to understand that a Marine is about 8ft tall the model is a little over 130mm in height or just larger than the Warhammer Plastic Giant.

    Now, on to the head...

    I wasn’t sure at this point whether or not to have the marine with a bare or helmeted head so I decided to work on both and decide later.
    In order to have the marine with a bare head I would have to sculpt a new one from scratch as there was no way I was using the Forgeworld head!

    Starting with a lump of grey Super Sculpey Firm, I marked out the proportions of the face.



    Basic volumes are established such as brow, nose and eye sockets.



    Further refinement of the forms and planes of the face.



    Details are established.



    Details are refined and the face start to take shape.



    Basic face has been smoothed and refined but there is not much expression or personality yet.



    Finished face. I wanted a battle worn marine so I made the face a little more craggy with a couple of old scars and wrinkles. Before the Sculpey is baked I’ll probably add a couple of service studs and some inlets for tubing.



    More head soon. :)


  7. #27

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    Awesome stuff Chris!

    I\'d have thought anyone would be mad to tackle something like this..........

    but methinks you\'re pulling it off quite well so far ;)

  8. #28

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    Fantastic stuff, the face in particular is looking really good. Why do you prefer doing face in sculpey? Obviously your not limited by drying time etc but do you find that it has a better resistance to GS? Does is squish about as much as GS when pushed from a different direction?

    I\'d be interested to hear your thoughts as I\'d really like to experiment with sculpting face, though on a 28-30mm scale and wonder if sculpey would be a good medium.

    Also, how did you add the skin like texture to the face when you smoothed it?

    A shot of the tools you\'ve used, with a brief description of the areas you\'ve used them on would also be a great help if you could find the time to provide one.

    Cheers and keep up the amazing work!

    Dante

  9. #29

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    Thats a great looking face, as CMdante said a brief run through would be really great, or a tutorial of some kind.

    Looking forward to this being painted up, and getting finished. Any idea which ultramarines company he\'ll be from yet?

  10. #30
    giganticdark
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    Orb - I\'m always up for a challenge. :)
    By the way, it was nice to meet you and PrawnPower at Euro this year. I\'ve been so busy since Folkestone I haven\'t managed to get in touch with many people I met there yet.

    CMDante - I find sculpting material is a very subjective topic and lots of different people use lots of different mediums. I prefer Sculpey Grey as I\'ve used it for such a long time and find it yields the best results for my type of larger scale sculpting. However it is not as elastic as Green Stuff/Duro and can only be pushed so far.

    I have seen various forms of Sculpey used at 30mm scale with some stunning results. I personally use Magic Sculpt or a mix of Duro/Milliput for really detailed work. My only advise is \'give it a go\'. You may find Sculpey isn\'t suitable but it may take you in a different direction altogether, thats the beauty of experimentation. :)

    As for the skin texture, I use a very fine brush for smoothing down with Sculpey Dilutent. A stippling motion with the brush produces tiny pores in the skin. Not sure why I take the trouble really as they usually get filled in when the model is primed!

    I\'m not sure I know you well enough to show you my tools...oh, alright then.



    From left to right, homemade sculpting wires for removing clay quickly and roughing out, a selection of silicone tipped shapers for refining forms, ball tipped tools for detailing, stainless steel dental probes for the really detailed work, and finally a couple of very fine brushes for smoothing down the sculpture.




    Completed bare head. Wire, plastic card and putty have been used to detail the head. The loose tubes will eventually connect into the collar of the armour.





    This is a shot of the new head alongside the Forgeworld head. As you can see in order to maintain some sense of scale and proportion the Forgeworld head would have been just too big.



    The helmet has received some minor detailing with wire brass etch and steel balls. Another reason for re-sculpting the head was to show that the head could actually fit inside the helmet.



    Boltgun next. :)

  11. #31

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    beautiful, any tips for a would be sculptor?? ps: the fw head looks chillingly like a froglol

  12. #32

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    Shaping up nicely there. Were you watching Robocop when you finished the head by any chance?! ;)

    Interesting points on the putty and tools. I\'ve only really used Green Stuff and Brown Stuff (kneadites) and a bit of superfine milliput. I\'m interested in finding a putty that isn\'t quite as elastic as GS, nor so soft as milliput but that can be smoothed easily without too much difficulty or pressure required.

    What is the green/yellow putty you\'ve used for the back of the head? I\'m guessing its a mixture of putties, care to share?

    Cheers,

    Dante

  13. #33
    giganticdark
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    I\'m using standard Milliput for the back of the head and most of the armour work. I find, when cured, it can be finely sanded to an almost glassy finish. It will also take any sort of drilling and milling well too.

    I have found a 50/50 mix of Green Stuff and Milliput to be a fairly agreeable medium. It lacks the chewing gumminess of Green Stuff alone and takes detail really well. I tend to leave it for about half an hour after mixing before I work with it. It\'s good for thin section work too and once cured retains some of the machinable qualities of it\'s Milliput component.

    For smoothing, pre cure, I use a brush with a tiny bit of vaseline and not water. I find water tends to erode the surface a little whereas vaseline gives a slick polished surface. Just remember to give the model a wash in detergent before priming.

    For smoothing, post cure, I use a variety of wet and dry papers with final buffing and polishing using Scotch synthetic wire wool.

    Hope this helps. :)

  14. #34

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    This truly is cutting edge stuff. A WIP like this really shows off the best results achieved by the best people in the hobby.

    I thank you and everyone else who posts these pictures and continues to push the envelope of this hobby.

    Absolutely well done, and I can\'t wait to see what this beasts looks like when painted.

    Maybe by the time it\'s done I won\'t be sick of looking at \"Pro Painted\" Ultramarines anymore!

  15. #35
    giganticdark
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    The Boltgun didn’t need too much conversion, details have been filed away removing imperial eagles on both sides and I straightened-up the grip. Sight has been re detailed with new rivets and replacement lenses.




    Adjustment screws added to the sight along with some brass etch details.



    Boltgun finished. Strap made from lead foil with brass etch buckles and plactic card fastenings.




    Gauntlet finger joints have been detailed with wire.



    More soon.

  16. #36

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    I like the wire jointing between the fingers - bet it was an arse to do though :P

  17. #37

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    The bolter looks amazing! I cant wait to see this when it is put together. What chapter will he be under?

  18. #38

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    This is an amazing piece of work. I may even have been inspired to have another crack at this sculpting malarkey!

    Truely awsome, in the true sense of the word.

  19. #39

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    can we have a full pick of the marine with head and boltgun? please?

  20. #40

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    One of the best WIP\'s I\'ve seen this. Top notch sculpting/converting and well illustrated.
    Can\'t wait to see the final pic\'s and then the painting WIP!! :)

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