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Thread: Space Marine WIP Part 2.

  1. #41

    Default

    Well, I was hoping to see it at Euro this year
    Still, if it\'s finished by the end of March, maybe Salute :)

  2. #42

    Default C00l!!!

    This guy is looking outta this world! I\'m really happy too \'cause my local hobby store stocks that Mr. Surfacer 1200 stuff. I\'ll pick up a bottle and try it out. Do you just thin it with water?

    Also, I think the effect you\'ve created on the face looks perfect. I personally wouldn\'t glaze and add all those reds, purples, etc. This is something that all the painters are doing now, and the way you\'ve gone with that ghostly, pale look is perfect to my eyes. And original!

    I can\'t wait to see the progress on this mini and must thank you heaps for sharing this work with us! Thanks d00d!

  3. #43
    giganticdark
    Guest

    Default

    Thanks for all of your comments so far, They are a great help and very encouraging, I always welcome feedback.

    rosac- I agree, and under normal circumstances I would probably use a slightly warmer pallet. However I\'m going for a cooler pallor this time.

    farin- I have had some bad experiences in the past with VMC going glossy on me so I always employ a belt and bracers approach and add the Flat Base just to be sure.

    As for using oils, I have a great respect for those who can use them and have seen some mind blowing results. However that style is just not right for me. I do use oils, but in other ways. Maybe I should try using them more as I love the smell. :)

    Avelorn- Thank you for the ideas. Truth is I\'m quite a nervous painter and wish I had the confidence to use colour in a more direct way.

    I am trying to go with a slightly cooler pallet for the flesh of the Marine and as I\'m painting it separately from the rest of the figure I\'ll probably adjust the tones of the face later once it\'s in-situ and I have the colour of the armour against it to judge the need for modulation.

    I had thought about strengthening the stubble effect beyond a very light wash but then wondered if this would be suitable. I\'m not sure (maybe someone can help here) but would a marine still have the capacity to grow hair after decades of augmentation and biological enhancement?

    PrawnPower- This may well be making an apperance at Euro this year if I don\'t produce anything better. :D

    GD would be nice to get back to if it doesn\'t clash with Folkestone.

    Can\'t make Salute though.

    laurence- No. Don\'t use water to thin Mr Surfacer. Use Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. If you local hobby shop stocks Surfacer then they should stock the thinner too.

    Now, about that armour...:)

  4. #44
    giganticdark
    Guest

    Default

    For the power armour I want to try and reflect a sense of great age and environment. I would like the armour to look as though it has seen hundreds of years of war, been subject to harsh alien environments and yet still retain an impression of functionality and resilience.

    I have decided to try some slightly experimental techniques for the painting of the power armour including salt masking. A weathering technique I’ve seen used by some awesome railway modellers to great effect.



    Firstly all of the armoured parts to be weathered get a generous coat of Red Oxide, a mix of Vallejo Model Air 080 Rust and VMA 057 Black. All the parts then get a couple of coats of Johnson\'s Klear, this will protect the base coat from the farily rough treatment to come.

    Although all of the part will receive the same weathering treatment I’ll hopefully demonstrate the process on a shoulder pad.

    Warning:
    This weathering process is a pretty random affair. I will be using hairspray salt and varnish all of which could have some compatibility issues depending on the brands used. I will give details of the products I have used but if you intend to try this process yourselves I cannot stress the importance of experimentation on scraps of plasticard etc. before you go anywhere near the model!

    Products used for the following process:



    Johnson’s Klear: An acrylic based floor polish, great cheap source for gloss varnish.
    Sainsbury’s Hairspray: Own brand Natural Hold hairspray, not too aggressive.
    Salt: Normal sea salt. I have ground the salt into a fine grade.




    Basecoat of VMA 080 Rust and VMA 057 Black airbrushed over the part.



    Johnson\'s Klear is then airbrushed a couple of times over the part.



    Once the Klear is thoroughly dry the piece is give a couple of quick passes with hairspray. Salt is then sprinkled onto the still wet hairspray. This process has to be done fast as the hairspray dries very quickly.



    Hairspray has completely dried. Piece is airbrushed with a mix of Tamiya XF-18 Medium Blue and Citadel Ultramarine Blue.



    A few highlights are sprayed over the part with the addition of Tamiya XF-23 Light Blue into the Medium Blue/ Ultramarine Blue mix.

    After the colour is dry I remove the salt by gently brushing it away while holding the part under cold running water. This needs to be a gentle action as only the salt should be removed, vigorous rubbing at the part will lift the hairspray and all the colour on top of it! When all of the salt has been washed away the part is left to dry.






    Salt mask removed. The weathering is quite harsh and will be toned down later. Detail shot shows how the salt mask has given the impression of erosion.

    More soon.:)

  5. #45

    Default

    Wow. I\'m speechless...

    Cant wait too see even just the shoulder pad at some point in time..

    Alex

  6. #46

    Default

    hmmm...totally different idea for me, but I think it could potentially make a really nice result...I will be following your stuff through stage by stage with a 54mm marine in a couple of weeks, so I\'ll think about giving that a try...its the first thing I haven\'t been so sure on though.

  7. #47

    Default

    Looks like our paint off is going to end up pretty simelar after all lol

  8. #48

    Default

    Funny enough I was reading something simular the other day whereby instead of using salt sand was used with the hairspray and the hole thing was done for armour on a vehicle.

    I don\'t recall the klear being used though but I guess you could give it a few coats of varnish instead before hitting it with hairspray and sand/salt.

  9. #49

    Default

    I have seen this technique, and practiced it but I was with sand. I dont think it makes eny diference what you use though. Great work so far.....stu.....

  10. #50

    Default

    Love the salt weathering technique. Best weathering I\'ve seen.

    Just make sure you keep the actual armour colour paler than it normally would.

    Going by the Fluff a marines armour is repaired and shined in between campaigns.

  11. #51

    Default

    i\'m not sure if this is finished yet or not, but if yes i think it needs a few more highlights and shadows just to make it pop.
    btw: great job otherwise.

  12. #52

    Default

    I just remind myself that you have been painting 8 years longer than i have been alive..

    That makes me feel better :D

  13. #53

    Default

    Originally posted by alextheartist
    I just remind myself that you have been painting 8 years longer than i have been alive..

    That makes me feel better :D
    lol.....stu.....

  14. #54

    Default

    that is awesome, it looks like real weathering but. however, to be honest it looks like the only stage done so far is the base coat and the batlle damage. so either: this is indeed the case, and im embarrasing myself
    or
    the blue needs more contrast in it

  15. #55
    Consummate Brushlicker Jericho's Avatar
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    Default

    Looks great but I think the weathering is a little too extreme. A bit more sparing on the salt, and a bit more airbrushed shading might look a bit better the next time around.

    Overall a really cool technique, thanks for the great progress shots.

  16. #56

    Default

    Originally posted by giganticdark
    Thanks for all of your comments so far, They are a great help and very encouraging, I always welcome feedback.

    farin- I have had some bad experiences in the past with VMC going glossy on me so I always employ a belt and bracers approach and add the Flat Base just to be sure.
    get yourself some Acrylic Matt Medium from the art shop it will seriously save you some money. It makes the paint dry dead flat!

    PrawnPower- This may well be making an apperance at Euro this year if I don\'t produce anything better. :D
    oh good, hopefully I can make it this year and see this in person

    GD would be nice to get back to if it doesn\'t clash with Folkestone.
    they were on different weekends last year,so hopefully they will be again

    ...........

  17. #57

    Default

    dude, you so need to put more stuff in your gallery, ...... and soon!lol

  18. #58

    Default

    you paint to slow

    just kidding

    but seriously what assylum are you in?
    lol

    absolutley awsome

  19. #59

    Default

    GD would be nice to get back to if it doesn\'t clash with Folkestone.
    From what I have heard GD is on the 27th
    Which would put it the week after Euro this year

    And you could enter more than one thing at Euro . . . .

  20. #60

    Default Looking sweet!

    Okay, thanks. I\'ll look for that Mr. Color thinner stuff.

    That\'s a really interesting technique you\'ve applied to get those realistic weathering/rust effects. May have to give that a shot down the track.

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