Spray booth
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Thread: Spray booth

  1. #1

    Default Spray booth

    O.K so someone asked me to write a little bit about my spray booth. I didn’t take any progress shots of it, as I didn’t think anyone would be interested so you’ll just have to use your imaginations…



    Things I used:
    · 1 Plastic box (I used an 84 litre ‘Really useful box’ because I wanted a box big enough to work in and use as a drying booth. The internal dimensions are 605 x 370 x 355). £20 from Staples Some other shops more then doubles the price of these boxes. The advantage of these boxes is they are almost perfectly square and the lid comes completely off. They are also clear so allow lots of light in.
    · Extractor fan. I used a cheap bathroom fan from B&Q (£15). I read on one website about getting a non-sparking fan as some have a brush which causes a small spark on the fan which could cause some gases to explode, although the quantities of paint from the brush should make this unlikely.
    · Length of ducting for the fan, I have no idea how much this is as I had some.
    · Nuts and bolts to hold everything in place.
    · Tool clips to hold the light and airbrushes (see photos).
    · Light. I bought an insulated work light from Makro for £10. It’s very bright, almost daylight quality.
    · Flex and plug. For the fan I bought it uses 2 core flex and the plug has a switch built onto the back (or you could cut a switch into the flex).
    · Also something to act as legs just to raise the box up slightly so the top can be taken on and off.

    So first I wired the fan up with the flex and plug to check it all worked, as it should. I then cut an approximate 4’’ hole into the back of the box for the fan to fit through and bolted it in place. The fan is slightly off centre to the painting position so when I am painting dust is not being dragged across the model. I then secured the ducting with tie wraps and duct tape. 2 tool clips were attached to the top of the box to hold the light on the outside, the light can then just be clipped off if I needed to move it. Small pieces of wood were placed under the box to act as legs, this also aids in taking the lid on and off. And that’s about it for the basic box, while painting the fan draws fumes away and once finished the lid can be put back on and the fan left on. With the lid on it makes a relatively dust free environment for drying too.

    I decided to add a couple of other features I thought would make working and storage easier. Attached to the side is a smaller (pencil case sized) Really useful box to store the airbrush pots and nozzles (I use an Aztek as my main brush). This is simply bolted to the side. And also 2 small tool clips to hold my other 2 airbrushes. The other thing I added was an attachment for the ducting this was simply made from an empty drinks bottle (coated in duct tape to make it more durable) I flattened one end down and secured it to a styrene girder. The point of this is so the window doesn’t have to be open as far (less then 1’’) to allow the ducting out, thus cutting down on the cold air. A piece of filter material can be placed over the end.





    I thought while I was writing this I would also show you all my homemade airbrush cleaning station. This is a glass jar with a metal tube screwed through the top with a rubber end on it (to protect the airbrush and create an airtight seal). Holes were drilled into the lid to let air out and a filter is held into the lid.



    That’s about it I hope that all made sense… probably not but there is more pics on my flickr page under workshop which will hopefully make things more clear, and any questions please ask.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/ronin412/sets/

    And please be kind I\'ve not posted anything like this before :redface:

  2. #2

    Default

    Very nice and thanks for the extra pics. I\'ll probably make up something similar soon. I have a lazy susan bearing I can screw on a piece of plywood to use instead of the paintier base, that could get expensive!

    Zach

  3. #3

    Default

    brilliant. saved a few hundred pounds there.

  4. #4

    Default

    I couldn\'t belive how much proper spraybooths are when you think whats in them.... I should have said the whole set up probably cost me £50 - £60.

  5. #5

    Default

    You may want to look into some sort of filter material to put in front of your fan your your going to clog it with paint over spray.

    I have a larger spray booth that I used all the time in my basement and spraying aerosol primers clog my filter pretty quickly.

    The biggest issue is flash over on a non protected fan . if one is just spraying acrylics from an airbrush there\'s nothing to worry about. Be care ful about excessive use of spray primers or paints with solvents.

  6. #6

    Default

    Yeah I use cooker hood filters to cover the main fan. I\'m just building a housing for it as at the moment I just tape it over when in use (and it looks a mess). The fan I bought is non sparking and fully insulated so there shouldn\'t be any chance of flash over. I usually only use acrylic including airbrush primers but they are thinned with alcohol for the airbrush. Another good option for a fan is a kitchen one as by there nature they are made for taking flamable fumes but this will add to the cost (although still cheaper than shop bought spray booths)

  7. #7
    Coffin Dodger / Keymaster airhead's Avatar
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    Default

    Very sweet. Much better than my cardboard box on the patio table...

    ***

    just a bit of note on the explosive/flash qualities....

    It is not necessarily the solvent that will set off a flash. As the paint leaves the airbrush, it is atomized very finely. The carrier generally evaporates very quickly... This leaves over-spray - very fine paint particles suspended in the air.

    Almost anything ground that fine and suspended in air is explosive. Don\'t believe it, sprinkle non-dairy creamer (powder) over a flame. It will flash all the way up to the can. Grain silos worry about too much dust in the air as it becomes explosive...

    Yea, a high concentration of solvents is not good, but the atomized paint needs to be filtered before it hits the fan too.

    size up a small house AC filter and stick it in there with some stand-off so that the fan can pull through it.


  8. #8

    Default

    Nice! Great little setup, gives me ideas for one I could make here if I need it so thanks!!

    Originally posted by airhead
    just a bit of note on the explosive/flash qualities....

    It is not necessarily the solvent that will set off a flash. As the paint leaves the airbrush, it is atomized very finely. The carrier generally evaporates very quickly... This leaves over-spray - very fine paint particles suspended in the air.

    Almost anything ground that fine and suspended in air is explosive. Don\'t believe it, sprinkle non-dairy creamer (powder) over a flame. It will flash all the way up to the can. Grain silos worry about too much dust in the air as it becomes explosive...


    Einion

  9. #9

    Default

    Interesting stuff -thanks.

    Oh and those are some big models in your cabinet!!

  10. #10

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    The ones at the bottom of the cabinet are about a foot tall Gundam kits. It\'s models like those why I built the spray booth....... One day I will get round to painting them:rolleyes:

  11. #11

    Default

    Originally posted by ronin412
    The ones at the bottom of the cabinet are about a foot tall Gundam kits. It\'s models like those why I built the spray booth....... One day I will get round to painting them:rolleyes:
    They look pretty painted to me :D

    Einion

  12. #12

    Default

    Most of them come pre-coloured as they are in the animes but they look better repainted or given a custom colour scheme and weathered like you would with military modelling.

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