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Thread: Space Marine Shoulder Pads

  1. #1

    Default Space Marine Shoulder Pads

    Currently Games-Workshop make a lagre variety of shoulder pads for their space marine armies, butnot enough????

    For instance I am currently painting a Salamanders army, and I am forced to use those bloody transfers (which in my experience are a nghtmare to use)

    Why can\'t they make moulded shoulder pads for all their space marine chapters. It doesn\'t look hard.

    I\'ve tried to make my own shoulder pads, just to realise how crap I am at using greenstuff.

    Does anyone make professional looking marine shoulder pads for themselves?

    Does anyone fancy making marine shoulder pads?.....i will gladly pay someone to make me a moulded shoulder pad that matches the Salamanders icon.

    Anyone up for the challenge????

  2. #2

    Default

    Try this one You can see a better view here.

    Apparently jarret ordered some Salamander shoulderpads, but they do not exist so GW sent him these lol

  3. #3

    Default

    When I spoke to Games-Workshop they suggested that I use the ALPHA LEGION shoulder pads. If I was collecting Alpha Legion marines I would, but I\'m not.

    I don\'t know why they suggest using those shoulder pads instead, because it looks nothing like the Salamanders Icon

  4. #4

    Default

    Originally posted by Calavera
    Try this one You can see a better view here.

    Apparently jarret ordered some Salamander shoulderpads, but they do not exist so GW sent him these lol
    Same thought jumped to my mind remembering Jarrett\'s iritation.

    I\'d try using GS casting. Find the icon of the salamanders on some model, stick a ball of GS on it (with some lubricant so it comes off later), wait for it to set, then presto! A mold of the salamander\'s icon! now you can just stick some GS in that, take it out (with the icon printed on it) and apply it to the shoulder pads.

  5. #5

    Default

    GW sculpting isn\'t very hard. Flatten a ball of GS to form a uniform thin layer over the pad. Allow to dry for 10 to 15 minutes. Then carefully cut away the excess, leaving behind a silhouette.

    Anyways, here\'s some tricks for shoulder pad decals.

    give the painted shoulderpad a coat of future to make it glossy.

    Carefully cut through the decal (but not the backing) to make sure you don\'t have excess film

    Apply the decal as instructed, allow to dry. Give it a coat of decal solution (it melts it slightly, allowing it to stretch a bit and settle over the compound curve)

    Hit it with your matte sealant.

    The combination of the gloss underneath, no clear rim and matte overtop will make it look painted on.

  6. #6

    Default

    Coyote, which of these from testors would work the best for applying decals:

    http://www.testors.com/catalog_search.asp

    I\'m guessing the 4th or 5th one? Or is there another brand that works better?

    I used the shoulder pads for my SW army but it got expensive at + $2.50 a model for a set of pads.

  7. #7
    Master Painter
    Guest

    Default

    I agree with you Talion, I recently lost a painting competition due to those bloody transfers which are so useless and utterly crap.:flame::mad:

  8. #8

    Default

    I\'ve been using the decals recently, and I\'ve had very good luck with them. It *is* a time consuming process though. I\'ll try to outline my process, and maybe that could help.

    Materials:
    shallow bowl of water
    cup of water to rinse brush in
    some paper towels
    a small brush (old)
    GW \'ardcoat (brush-on gloss varnish)
    the decals
    a knife
    tweezers
    Microsol
    Microset

    Ok...that\'s a lot of stuff, but you should probably have most of it already. The \'ardcoat can be picked up anywhere that has a selection of Citadel paints, and the Microsol and Microset cost about US$2.50 each. Those can be found in any decent hobby store (one that sells railroad accessories and such).

    1. brush some gloss varnish on the area for the decal. For SM shoulderpads, I juse glossed the entire bit inside the raised outer rim. Be sure to let this dry completely.

    2. cut out your decals. cut a square around each decal, and then on that square, cut a shallow outline around the symbol, not cutting through the backing. kind of scrape away the excess decal film.

    3. using the tweezers to pick up the decal square, set it in the bowl of water. You can submerge it if you want, but you may have trouble getting it off the bottom with the tweezers later. You\'ll want this in the bowl for about 30 seconds to 1 minute.

    4. While you\'re waiting for the decal to release from the backing, dip your brush in the MicroSET and brush it on the shoulderpad to wet it.

    5. Grab the decal square with your tweezers, and test by trying to move the decal with your brush. If it moves freely, you\'re good to go.

    6. Using the tweezers, grab the decal square and touch it lightly to a piece of paper tower to absorb any excess water. Make sure the shoulderpad is still damp from the MicroSet. Use the brush in one hand to move the decal off the backing that is being held in the tweezers in the other hand. It\'s a little fiddly, but as long as you get the decal off the paper and onto the pad, you\'re doing ok.

    7. dip your brush in the Microset again, and brush it over the shoulderpad. Use the brush to slide the decal around into position. This is all up to your eye, so try your best to get the symbol centered.

    8. Let dry for a minute or two. Take a small square of damp paper towl (wet it, then squeeze it out). Use this to push gently on the edges of the decal, trying to push out any air bubbles. Be careful the first time you do this, and you\'ll get a good feel for it.

    9. Let dry completely.

    10. At this point there may still be ridges and air bubbles, especially on SM shoulderpads...that curve is a pain! That\'s ok, as that is what the MicroSOL is for. Brush the Microsol onto the entire decal, and use your brush, near the ferrule, to push down any ridges, and push out any disformities. If there\'s an airbubble completely under the decal, prick the bubble with a pin. You may have to repeat this step multiple times for a single model. I had to do it something like 7 times on the last squad of Dark Angels I decalled. It\'s a pain, but it\'s worth it.

    10b. At this point, you may want to go to step 3 and do the rest of the squad in one go.

    11. Once the pad is completely dry, and looks good, do another coat of gloss varnish over the whole thing.

    12. Spray with matte varnish to finish it all.

    As a side note, I\'ve got quite a few decal sheets, and I get better results with the sheets that have a darker blue paper backing. You can tell the lighter ones because it\'s difficult to see the white decals unless you\'re looking from the right angle.

  9. #9

    Default

    You could try using an alternative make of transfer.

    I have used Griffon games decals for my Imperial Fists and found them to be far better than the GW ones.

    Link

    They are much thinner than the GW and come as a printed transfer sheets so have to be cut out very close to the image.

    They are only single colour so for the Fists I had to paint a white background for the image first.

    As stated before a gloss base is essential.

    I was also very impressed with the service from Griffon Games and recieved my order within the week!

  10. #10

    Default

    Sounds like to much of a pain for the things (I have been just putting them on :) )

    I may just put a tiny tiny bit of blu tac under the standered pad to hold it on untill I get the cash to buy the metal ones.

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