Fire Flash and Scorch Marks
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Fire Flash and Scorch Marks

  1. #1

    Default Fire Flash and Scorch Marks

    Does anyone have some advice on how to create a scorch effect and muzzle burns?

  2. #2
    Superfreak!!! Dragonsreach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Bolton, Lancs, UK (A Geordie in Exile)
    Rep Power


    Basically; the muzzle burns should make the metal looks bronzed as there is generally a oxidization effect caused by intense heat/flame around fire ejection points.

    I\'ve used GW\'s Tin Bitz and washes of chestnut inks to try to emulate the effect.

    Around painted surfaces the Heat generally either burns off the paint or causes it to char & blacken. Sometimes even to flake off & leave bare metal.
    One thing to take into consideration is that any type of heat weapon (Flamethrower) will have a potential for blow back towards the weilder, caused by wind, weather something getting in the wa, hitting flammable materials which explodes, etc.. So any weilder will be covered with small scorch marks/burns.
    Mostly Flame rises away from the ground, therefore most scorch marks will be stronger on the top of the weapon.

    Trying to emulate soot is very difficult and requires very careful use of a \'charcoal black\' colour either drybrushed on or painted on very thinly fading away from the point of greatest heat.

    Before you ask, no not a fire bug, but had to do fire safety training and run demonstrations of fire safety techniques inculding intense videos of the effects/results. Hence the knowledge.

  3. #3


    Currently, I\'m trying to figure out NMM scorching... I believe this can be done with some brownish red paint or black and drybrushing it, but I\'ve yet to try it.. Maybe Cyril will enlighten us... ?

  4. #4


    I use a nifty little paint made by the company Gunze Sangyo included in their Vehicle Weathering Set. It\'s a flat black called \'Soot\' (H343 from their Hobby Color line). This works well in one application over most colors when drybrushed. I use it for exhaust, gun barrels, and scorching around blast marks on vehicle hulls. The whole Vehicle Weathering Set runs about $13.00 US, and includes some othern ice colors too, some with texture.


  5. #5


    I think you can paint rust with NMM (its mostly orange/brown i think)

    For an example, look here:

  6. #6


    For laser burns and scorch marks on my old tanks I took some fire cracker fuses and taped them down the direction I wanted them to burn. Only tape the ends so it doesnt slide around and light them in the middle.

  7. #7


    Originally posted by Justin[AsG]
    For laser burns and scorch marks on my old tanks I took some fire cracker fuses and taped them down the direction I wanted them to burn. Only tape the ends so it doesnt slide around and light them in the middle.
    Fire Fire Fire, cool......

  8. #8


    I tend toward inks and washes.


    I use then for barrel schorching and that \"roasted metal\" look.

    Same basic technique for rust as well.

    I\'ve also seen blue wash/ink over metalics to simulate heat stressed chrome...

  9. #9


    Just noticed a nice scorched ink job on this jumppack...

  10. #10

    Default scorch marks

    I\'ve had some success creating scorch marks and rust effects by using black, dark red and orange pastel chalks.

  11. #11

    Default Scorch marks/weathering

    A friend of mine came across a great product for weathering a while back and was good enough to share it with me when I asked him how he did it.

    Go to the (as local as can be) Art supply or crafts store and ask for Conte` Chalks. These are essentially charcoal sticks. They come in packs of two, and retail in the Seattle area for about $3.00 USD.

    Get a piece of sandpaper and sand down one of the sticks, until you have a quantity of fine black (or reddish-brown) dust. then, using an old brush that you DO NOT CARE ABOUT (this process will destroy any hopes of using the brush for anything after this) brush the dust onto your model. Using this process allows you to shade the dust onto the mini where you want it.

    If you\'re going for a rusted metal look, pick up the reddish brown color. I can\'t remember the name of the color, but if your art store is anything like mine, they\'ll only have the reddish brown and black available singly. If you want a REALLY rusted metal look, draw on the mini with the reddish brown directly, only on the areas you want to look rusty.

    *****NOTE: this method is EXTREMELY messy, and is best used as the last step before overcoating with varnish, otherwise it will just wipe right off.

    The black technique gives a dirty look, and the reddish brown looks rusty. a combo of these two might look burnt? I\'ll try it out a little more and get back to y\'all


  12. #12


    personally, i like to do a heavy stipple of black, leesening in intensity as you get further away.

    Next, I use a brown/maroon mix, stippled on lighter than before

    Finally, I use a drybrush of black over top the whole thing.

    Works well

  13. #13


    I drybrush gold then black on the ends of barrels for heated metal looks.

    Another product I\'ve experimented with is some old \"Dragonscale Cremes\". They are a wax-based color you basically dry brush on with an eyeshadow brush (foam tipped). Like the post about using charcoal sticks, this stuff is kinda messy and should be done just before sealing.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts

Privacy Policy  |   Terms and Conditions  |   Contact Us  |   The Legion

Copyright © 2001-2018 CMON Inc.