Obsidian Painting: Obsidian Paint! - Page 2
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Thread: Obsidian Painting: Obsidian Paint!

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donga View Post
    </p>
    Yellow is one of the worst paints in the universe. The problems are that in order to get a smooth coverage you need to dilute, but yellow will not even cover yellow! If you want it to cover you are stuck with a glue like paint that will dry lumpy.GW's foundation paint is by far the best yellow, but it isn't very bright. So a nice bright yellow that can be diluted to cover smoothly. It's not alot to ask!

    from what I've been told you won't get a non-toxic pigment to do that, to get a bright yellow to cover the way you are asking a highly toxic pigment is required, of course I could be wrong!
    My Gallery <IMG SRC=http://www.coolminiornot.com/rank.php?name=mickc22> Paragon Studios

  2. #22

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    I'll See what i can do. The first pigments i'm trying are highly pigmented and NON-TOXIC. So, i'll se what i can do to make sure it's bright and covers well.

  3. #23

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    Update:

    I've encountered 1 problem with the Washes. That is that they seem to seperate when left alone. However this is easily fixed with some shaking. When i sell these i'm going to get some agitators to put in them to help with that.

    I have found a few things about the washes:
    1. They flow into the recesses nicely
    2. When wet, they seem granulated
    3. They dry completely even
    4. You have to control where it goes over flat surfaces with the brush, or else you will get a "muddled" effect. (common with all inks and washes)
    5. dries completely Matte
    6. the gradation is amazing.
    7. unlike the GW washes, if you apply alot on, it does not become thick and "glunky" leaving a tide mark that is a mm or less thick.
    8. They dry Fast!

    Cheers Gary.
    I'll post some pics later of what it looks like over colour.
    Last edited by obsidianpainting; 12-30-2009 at 07:10 PM.

  4. #24

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    the coverage does look good, nice and uniform....

    if your willing to send those samples overseas (holland to be exact), i'd be willing to try a batch. i've been planning on looking into some different brands of paints and stuff....

    just give me an estimate on what i'd owe you

    edit:
    if you cant get any non-toxic yellow pigment, maybe consider a toxic variant that would give good coverage, somewhat like gw's foundation range.
    maybe with a warning about toxicity on the pot.
    Last edited by Mourner; 12-30-2009 at 07:15 PM.

  5. #25

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    Update:

    so here it is over some colour!

    This is over metallics:


    and over the red blade, which was first wetblending with mechrite red and blood red. Then washed with My Black Wash.





    Hope you like!

    Gary.

  6. #26

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    Wow, let us know when you go into production, I'd love to try them out myself.

  7. #27

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    i'de love to try out some of your washes and paints.

  8. #28

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    Ok guys! Here's a little thought provoker.

    What should i call the paints? the line i'm going to call Obsidian Paint. (due to the companies name) however he individual paints need names too. My origional idea was to call them like, Blue 1 and blue 2. Or then just call them the actual name like, Phthalo Blue Green shade, or Napthol Crimson Light.

    But i want to hear from you guys what should i call the colours!?

    Let's here it guys!

    Cheers!(may be something in it for the git that comes up with the best names!)

  9. #29

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    You could go with historical names... Like Mona Lisa Yellow, Da Vinci Brown or Michelangelo Red...

    Or, to keep with your company name theme, rock names; Obsidian Black, Ruby Red, Amber Yellow, Diamond clearcoat.

    Cheesy, I know, but names that have a bit of thought behind them are more fun to remember in my opinion
    Quote Originally Posted by TrystanGST View Post
    The secret? Practice, and a desire to get better. A little talent goes a long way, but as long as you're open to advice, you can do amazing things.

  10. #30

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    Congrats on the idea Gary, best of luck with it!

    Quote Originally Posted by obsidianpainting View Post
    The ideal goal is to be able to sell it, if not, then i have my own paint for cheap!
    Even with a triple-roll mill, bulk-ordered dispersant, anti-foaming agent, humectant, pigments, acrylic resin and containers??!

    Quote Originally Posted by obsidianpainting View Post
    We will also do custom colours. If you have a colour your running out of, then send it to us and we'll make a batch. A colour swatch will also work.
    This sounds great, but you doing the matching by eye or relying on spectrophotometer readings and Kubelka-Munk?


    Quote Originally Posted by ScottRadom View Post
    My point is I don't know how well a line fo only 7 core paint's will fly. Certainly as a starter set and such but I think that if you want to appeal to as many hobbyists as possible more paint range may be in order.
    I'd have to agree, given the nature of the hobby's painters and what they're already used to in terms of convenience mixtures. It might appeal to a very small minority, who already mix nearly everything (like me - my core palette for miniatures is seven tubes).


    Quote Originally Posted by Donga View Post
    So a nice bright yellow that can be diluted to cover smoothly. It's not alot to ask!
    Actually it is! Excluding the use of opacifiers there's only one feasible pigment type and that is cadmium sulphide, PY35 and PY37; they are opaque relative to other yellows (most of which are synthetic organic pigments) but still don't cover particularly well by our standards.

    Quote Originally Posted by Donga View Post
    Yellow is one of the worst paints in the universe. The problems are that in order to get a smooth coverage you need to dilute, but yellow will not even cover yellow! If you want it to cover you are stuck with a glue like paint that will dry lumpy.
    You need to try better paints But honestly, at the coat thickness we aim for you really have to rely on certain tricks, like undercoating the area in white, or using a white + ochre mix as a base, then going over it with your true yellow.


    Quote Originally Posted by mickc22 View Post
    from what I've been told you won't get a non-toxic pigment to do that, to get a bright yellow to cover the way you are asking a highly toxic pigment is required, of course I could be wrong!
    No, not highly toxic - the danger from cadmium pigments is often exaggerated. Their primary risk is if one sprays with them, or handles the dry pigment like obsidianpainting might have to.

    Einion

  11. #31
    Slowest painter ever Beamo's Avatar
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    No tide marks? sign me up.

    The black looks good, so I'll be following this pretty closely.

    I like Chrome's idea for rock names, although you might run out of names or find that you don't have enough "red" rocks for the different shades of red you might produce, for example.

  12. #32

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    Hey thanks for the reply's guys.

    @Einion.
    We are doing all this by hand, so no rolling mills(yes it takes alot longer, maybe later on if we get people who like the product) Dispersant isn't Necessary, it's just convenient. It's really helpful to use dispersent on natural pigments though. But since we're using mostly oxides, they tend to disperse quite well in water. The only costly thing is the acrylic polymer emulsion(the resin) but simply put, it's either a binder, a binder plus medium, or medium. the best option is the middle, as this gives you complete control with how the product turns out. We are doing the colour matching by eye. We have a lot of templates to follow as well, this colour plus this colour makes this colour, and then you just gauge from there what else you need to add.

    @Beamo. As long as you use it with a controlled hand, there are no tide marks. I have encountered a few tide marks, but those were due to lack of control. To optimize the experience with the paint, just brush on and cover the WHOLE area you want washed. No tide marks are left that way! If you use over metallics just use thin layers, or else it will create a.. hmm how to word this, an effect as though you had covered it in pigment? like dry pigment powder for weathering. Which, if you want that look, then go for it!

    the rock idea seems nice! the only problem i encounter, like beamo said is the running out of names. And the 7 paint idea is just for the first set, as mentioned earlier. I also mentioned that after that, we would work on creating shaded sets of a particular colour like. Dark blue up to a light white. as a set.

    anyways thanks guys! keep em coming!
    Gary.

  13. #33

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    Personally I'm not that bothered if you call them blue 67 or Thor's lightening bolt blue, (yes, I know know he was a thundergod) what I'm really hoping is that you will release a comparison chart

    Marc
    Help me to hatch my eggs , click on it



  14. #34

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    To other paint brands? like GW and P3?

  15. #35

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    Well, dispite my personal preferences, GW is going to be the reasonable one to compare to, they probably have the largest market share. I would like to see it include P3, possibly even vallejo, but it really depends on how far you want to go, theres always the ral partha paints, the reaper masterworks (Do the still make the screw top ones? Anyone?) coat d'arms, tamiya, humbrol, and so on and so on.
    Would make for a lot of work, so I would probably just go for two or three most popular ranges to compare with.

    Marc
    Help me to hatch my eggs , click on it



  16. #36
    Senior Member daddyo's Avatar
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    looks good to my bleary old eyes. please keep us posted on your progress.

  17. #37

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    Ah what the hell, put me down for a wash set

    Marc
    Help me to hatch my eggs , click on it



  18. #38

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    i like chromes idea for the names although the numbering system wouldnt be a bad idea either.
    Last edited by generiUser; 12-31-2009 at 07:45 PM. Reason: made a typo

  19. #39

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    Ok, so once i get in more supplies, By the end of the month of january, i hope to have sent out samples to people. I don't want to send TOO many, and by the way the only requirement for receiving a sample is that afterwards you do a review on it. Wether it be on youtube, here, another forum, doesn't matter. That's all i ask!

    So, i'm not going to send free samples to everyone so i'm only going to pick 5 people from the CMON forums to send samples to.

    1.ScottRadom (easy cause your in canada!)
    2.
    3.
    4.
    5.

    anyone else!? i am willing to ship 2 packages outside of the continent.

    So please, reply with who wants one, and where you reside, and i will decide from that who goes on the list. i'll be doing it based on convenience to me. So i apologize if you aren't picked. But please! By all means, please post some info! I would love to get some to alot of people!

    By the time the free samples are shipped, i will also be taking pre-orders for the washes. I can accept credit card and paypal. (money order as well if you're in Canada) this will all be through email, ( i have a business paypal account and so can accept money from paypal or credit card, wether you have paypal or not.)

    Cheers, Gary!

  20. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by obsidianpainting View Post
    just call them the actual name like, Phthalo Blue Green shade, or Napthol Crimson Light.
    from a practical viewpoint, I think that this would be the best idea for names.
    I think this would make it far easier for people with little experience in mixing paints to get the colour they want.
    if you list the actual pigment, it makes it far easier to apply advise from classical painters (and match colours) especially as many painting tutorials on the net explain mixing their colours based on the colour of the pigment.

    hope this helps

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