My first "real" mini WIP
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Thread: My first "real" mini WIP

  1. #1

    Default My first "real" mini WIP

    Just a little background on me, Ive done a fair amount of scale military modeling, but ive always treated the painting like a simple paint by numbers, where only prescision, and not creativity matters. After that I got the Doom Board Game, and I began painting my peices for that, im currently 2/3 done with painting and dipping them, but again, it is little more than 3d paint by numbers. However, the doom minitures got me interested in finding out more about the hobby, so I figured I would give a shot at some real, more artistic painting. This is also my first shift from enamel to acrylic paints.

    This is my first venture, and I chose the Grenadier Cyclos Heavy Weapons 3-pack.

    So far I have about 1/2 of my first mini, and most of the base done.
    Im doing the base from scratch, as I have all the diorama materials from military modeling. The only thing that is left is to properly put the rock on, and to add some foliage, which Im going to do after Im done with the mins

    The pictures are below. . . Sorry if the quality isnt great.
    Any (seriously ANY) tips would be much appreciated, I'm mostly working on blending and forming good color schemes right now. any suggestion of the color of the boots and knee pads? I was thinking black, but I dont want the mini to end up too dark.

    Also, I just noticed this after uploading the pics, but I still have to do touchups (pink on the head and brown on the pants)

    Last edited by ohaple; 02-03-2010 at 07:00 PM. Reason: A couple picture quality upgrades.

  2. #2


    Hello ohaple.

    Let me start with an very good ment advice, that saved myself very much time and nerves. Try, to paint your primary color opaque. With a opaque layer all kinds of blendings are much easier.
    As I can see in the picture your skin is not opaque in every place.

    To achieve a waveless surface (your shoulder seams rough) mix up your color with a little bit of water and paint two or three layers to get a opaque surface. Please let each layer dry complete, before you paint the next.

    @ Colors:
    Back is very difficult to paint. Because you have got a green throusers and red hair I would suggest a tone in the middle. A dark red-brown...

    Unfortunatelly I have got only one tutorial for blendings. But this is in german and still WIP. I hope one of the others will find you something good for the start.

    Greetings, Taggi
    How do you know, that Taggi has been assimilated to borg: "Rezitanz fiutail ist."

    Sorry for violating the english language.

    Please rate my comments, even if there is critism in it, as a personal point of view. I do not have the absolute truth in minature painting and every word said by me is only a suggestion, that may be thought over or simple ignored. So, happy painting!

    And my own Dragons:

  3. #3


    Thanks for the advice. I think im going to go back and do the skin again (since I didnt have enough ontrast in my blending the first time. These extra layers should make it more opaque, and that idea for the borders is really good, I willbe sure to try that as well.

    And you suggest kinda like leather for the boots? thats what I was thinking as well, with metal buckles.

    Another funny note, I didnt even know that this sculpt was female until I started highlighting the shirt some, and was like, wait, this guy has boobs, wtf. Also the hair is bright pink with pale pink on top, sorry if its hard to tell from the pic
    Last edited by ohaple; 02-03-2010 at 07:11 PM.

  4. #4


    Quote Originally Posted by ohaple View Post

    Another funny note, I didnt even know that this sculpt was female until I started highlighting the shirt some, and was like, wait, this guy has boobs, wtf.

    can't reiterate enough thin paints, build up layers more smoothly

    what paints are you using? they look a little lumpy

  5. #5


    yeah, ive been doing about a 3:1 thinned blend for my shadows and lowlights, about 2:1 for my base, and about 1:1 for highlights.

    Ive been using the applebarrel paints, as said on

    And ok, what thinning ratios do you suggest? The way it is, I only needed about two for my base and then two for lowlights, and one for highlights.

  6. #6
    Superfreak!!! Dragonsreach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohaple View Post
    Ive been using the applebarrel paints.........
    Without wishing to be too detrimental the paints recommended are not the most suitable to model painting in fine detail.
    Basically Applebarrel are aimed at subjects where the maintenance of finely sculpted detail is not as relevant as large easy coverage of colour......fine for painting a Garden Gnome, but not as good for a 28mm figure.
    In order to get the dilution down to a level where the particulate level of the colour is not going to clump together you'll be looking at dilutions well above the level you've stated.

    I have some Applebarrel and similar paints and I've relegated them to the painting large scale scenery category.
    I believe in Karma, what you give, is what you get returned. Affirmation; Savage Garden
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    , and proud of it.

  7. #7


    Going to second DR's comment there regarding the Apple Barrel paints. I started out with those, and I really didn't do very well with them. Now I am not saying go and throw them away, but you might start saving for some better ones. I use mine for terrain and other large areas where I'm not going to be taking a very detailed picture of. It's amazing the difference between the two paints when you really get into it.
    "Reality, she's a mathematical bitch from hell.", MaxedOutMama
    Wanna be bored? Watch me twitter. --<>-- Still have neurons? Watch my YouTube channel on painting!
    Want to know when to fry your neurons? My painting twitter will announce the videos.
    To judge how far to follow my advice, consider this: ---<>--- Slappin' paint on minis since 2006

  8. #8


    ok cool, thanks for the advice. What do you suggest using? the acrylics that come in little jars at the hobby store? or are artist style acrylics (the kind in a tube) good too? Has anyone tried testors acrylic? Just a personal thing, I like the glass screw on lids better..... And im not at much of a loss with the applebarrel paints so far. We had a bunch around the house, and I spent a whole (gasp) $2 for some more that were specifically colors I wanted. They were like 3 for a dollar at michaels.

    On an unrelated note, Ive heard of water based enamels. Im not planning on using them, but what is your experience, if any, with them?

  9. #9


    This is an old mini I did because I started with the apple paints also, you can see the grain in the paint is similar to yours that and layers are nigh to impossible.

    I love vallejo paints for minis and the reaper paints if you use a paperclip the dropper dispenser is easy to clear.
    Golden and liquidtex work in the non student types but the thinning process is less user friendly so not the best for starting but easy to find.

    Anything in these will give you better results of the bat and also use a sable brush not a synthetic it will help the paint flow and I found this out the hard way.

    Read the articles for many other views and trick of the trade so many here are gifted painters and share this knowledge freely. I personall would not invest in the enamels with out hearing someone say they were great...kind of like water based oil paints ...not a good idea
    Winter is Coming...

  10. #10


    Thanks for the advice. I think i will finish out this set with the apple paints, just to stay consistant. Ive been super busy, but i will post some new pics this weekend since i have a day off

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