how to keep paint smooth??
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Thread: how to keep paint smooth??

  1. #1

    Default how to keep paint smooth??

    Hello all....

    i have finally decided to take the plunge and learn to paint. I painted a figure last night and while I am quite happy with the the horrible piece of garbage I have created I cannot help but think I might feel less nauseated looking at it if the paint were not so damned rough and grainy. I am diluting the paint with water. Is that where the problem is?

    Using Reaper's master series BTW.

  2. #2

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    Reaper master series can be quite grainy actually. I only use water as well, if you use tap water it can affect the paint somewhat depending on where you live.

  3. #3

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    What paint brand would you recommend??

  4. #4

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    I haven't tried the Reaper master series, so can't comment on how to fix it. Maybe add a little flow aid or a similar medium? I would imagine this would partially resolve the issue.

    Personally, I am a fan of Vallejo Paints, a very few Liquitex paints (Paynes Grey, Burnt Umber, Raw Umber), and some of the GW paints. I have also heard good things about Privateer Press P3 lines, but have no experience with them yet.

  5. #5

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    I like the Vallejo paints as well ... they are incredibly smooth. As far as thinning the paint, I use "magic mixture" a combination of tap water and Future floor finish at a 4:1 ratio. The Future helps break the surface tension on the paint helping to remove bubbles and things than can occur with very thin paint. Also, it will definitely take a while to get comfortable painting with very thin paint, but that's the best way to get it smooth ... I use paint diluted anywhere from 2:1 to upwards of 6 or 7 : 1.

    jim

  6. #6
    Coffin Dodger / Keymaster airhead's Avatar
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    RMS will give you a nice smooth coat.
    Thin it more.
    How are you thinning? I've taken to using a white ceramic tile (cheap at the home centers).
    What type brush are you using? Decent sable will help.
    Don't use your brush to reduce your paints, use a toothpick or you'll end up with too much paint in your brush.

    If you can cover an area with one coat of color, you are putting your paints on too thick.
    If it takes more than 3 coats to color an area, you may have finally got the paints too thin.
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  7. #7

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    I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest you just paint a few more miniatures and get used to the texture and feel of the paint. Try diluting more or less, try wiping more out of the brush before you paint. If you really want to experiment go all the way from paint that's more water than paint and wiping the paint off till almost nothing appears in your wiping paper, to using it straight out of the bottle and having a good amount of paint in the brush (still not dripping or anything).
    People can recommend all sorts of different paints and mediums and dilutions but you'll never know what they're talking about if you don't try it out.

    I use Reaper Master Series paints (and Citadel paints as well) and usually dilute only with water. I also usually wipe almost all the paint out of the brush before painting, except when i do basecoats. Getting the paint smooth is something you get really quickly if you focus on seeing how the paint behaves when you put the brush to the mini. Then it becomes an issue to get the colors smooth
    Last edited by Solun Decius; 05-04-2010 at 12:49 PM.

  8. #8

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    From the brands I have I recommend Citadel, Vallejo Model Colour and Model air (especially metallics of model air), NOT game colour) and P3's. I have favourites from all brands, if I'd use one exclusively it would be VMC for the range, but why choose?

    @Jim: Have you tried the new GW washes and also used them for thinning paint? The results are a bit similar I think.

    EDIT: About RMS being smooth. Can you give me specific colours that are smooth that I can try? The browns I used were not good

  9. #9

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    The RMS browns I used had issues as well but I really like the greys, skin tones and reds.

    Any of the paints mentioned can give you a smooth coat, just play around with them, as someone else mentioned. Try different levels of dilution too.

    The one thing I didn't see mentioned- make sure one layer is dry before you start on the next one. That will create a grainy texture very quickly if you aren't careful.

    Zach
    www.crookedeye.net

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by CrookedEye View Post
    The one thing I didn't see mentioned- make sure one layer is dry before you start on the next one. That will create a grainy texture very quickly if you aren't careful.
    Quoted For Truth!

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Avelorn View Post

    @Jim: Have you tried the new GW washes and also used them for thinning paint? The results are a bit similar I think.
    I have not tried them ... I've been meaning to ... thanks for the reminder. I should make sure I pick some up the next time I re-stock.

    jim

  12. #12

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    MSP's are all pretty smooth Tre; like any paint line, they're not perfect, and won't fit everyone's paint styles. I think it's way more correct to say "[X] paint line didn't work for me" than "[X] paint line is worthless." This site's full of great miniatures painted with paint lines people say are bad and unworkable, after all . I think you saw the Finari I posted; the NMM and leather are all browns and I've never had any problems. Are you coming down to the Con in a few weeks? You know you'd get any number of us who'd let you sit in on our classes or sit down with you upstairs to give you a crash course, along with having different paint lines for you to try.

    Try basecoating about 3:1 paint to water. If it's too thick you'll either see a rounded ball of paint on the brush, or visible streaks on the mini when you paint with it. MSP's should cover in 2-3 coats rather than one thick coat, so give that a shot.

  13. #13

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    I hope I can John.... it always depends on things beyodn my control. If I do it will probabyl be one of those last minute things..... AGAIN! I HATED missign it last year and I swore I would not miss it again, btu I am in no better shape this year than I was last year..... My own fault but there it is. thanks fro the tip, I wil try that out. I figured it was probably just my absolute lack of experience / ability anyway.

  14. #14

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    Since getting back into painting I've picked up some FlowAid, Retarder, and Distilled Water and made a mix of them in a nifty lil applicator bottle. I can add a drop of that into whatever paint I have on the palette.

    The Flow Aid, Retarder and applicator bottle I got fom antonocites, and picked up a bottle of distilled water off Ebay.

  15. #15

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    Just think of it like when you first started using green stuff, or Procreate, or cernit; paints are the same way in that some are fantastic for some uses and crappy for others. If you have some friends with paint or others near ya just borrow their paint for a bit and see if it clicks with ya, but realize paints can have a learning curve the same way as putties do. You can try mixing in additives in your paint for different uses, but for MSP's I know Anne and I only use pure water and no other additives.

  16. #16

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    I used reaper master series on my Jen the Mystic model. The paints do have a graininess to them. If you continue to use them I would recommend buying reapers brush on sealer. It really helps the paint coat the miniature correctly. I used it on Jen and the results were pretty nice.

  17. #17

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    Do you really mean graininess, where you see actual grains like sand stuck in the paint while you're using it, or chalkiness, where the amount of white in the color for coverage makes getting smooth blends harder for you?

  18. #18

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    Hey Tre! How's it going?

    I would reiterate the already reiterated tip about making sure that the previous layer of paint is dry. I know that I've ended-up with grainy results from rushing things.

    What type of brush are you using?

    I almost exclusively use RMS, and generally just thin with water. You can see the results on my site and this one.

    I have had some problems with bad batches of paint from Reaper. I email'ed them about it, and had gotten replacements for some. You might try contacting them, and see if that applies to you. Also, I've heard that if the paint is frozen at any point, that will ruin it.

    Good luck with your painting!

  19. #19

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    What I get is a grainy as in grains like sand. I used it on the back of the cloak on this one you can actually see the grain on the back if you look closely. Fixed the blending somewhat by glazing with other paints, but the rough surface remain.

    RMS have people divided it seems. I could have a bad batch.
    Last edited by Avelorn; 05-05-2010 at 06:01 PM.

  20. #20
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    Early on, Reaper had some bad batches of earth tone colors. Pigments reacting or something. They replaced them freely. Send Reaper an email with the color (lot number if it is on the paint) and see if they don't make it right for you.
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