Mini-Great Demon of Nurgle
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Thread: Mini-Great Demon of Nurgle

  1. #1

    Default Mini-Great Demon of Nurgle

    Attachment 3608Hello everyone!

    Some days ago i was commissioned to sculpt and paint a WFB Great Demon of Nurgle.
    The challenge of it consisted in make it look like the one offered by Forgeworld. Or at close as it could get, considering that it should be made on the same scale that the Warhammer ones. This is, fit in a 50x50mm square base.

    This time, the first and hopefully not the last, I set myself a new challenge, that is post this WIP. As English is not my native tongue, my apologies if something in my writing seems odd. I'm trying to improve that.

    So, after researching some images, realised that this sculpture in particular hasn't much of a complex structure (in terms of pose, wire skeleton, etc.). It´s more like a solid, massive volume. (Botero anyone?) the hard work is in the textures.

    Having calculated the approximate size, I decided to use a cork as base, and to model over it. Not on top of it but surrounding it, in the end the cork would be the core of the figure. Why? As I said, in this case in particular a wire skeleton seemed pointless. I was looking for some spherical or cylindrical volume, and found that a wine cork had the right dimensions. And it's light, helpful when you have to hold the miniature to sculpt or paint.

    I began with some basic volumes, checking the size and posture.
    I use two types of modelling putty. The well known green stuff, and other one called just "epoxy clay". Both are epoxy clay, I think green stuff has some silicone in its formula (to resist high temperature and hence that wax-like texture, but just guessing).
    The other one, I'm not sure if it's what the rest of the world knows as brown stuff, or milliput. Two components (brown and white), not very elastic, hard and good to file, cut or sand when dry.
    They both can mix together, and that is what I mostly use to sculpt. For some details I go for the green stuff alone, and big shapes and volumes, the khaki stuff (?).

    Once the basic volumes were done, I started adding some detail with the mixture of brown + green. For the intestines I used only green stuff, goes better for organic shapes like that.

    At this point I realised it would be a great idea to document the process! Sorry, I wish I have some pic of previous stages. As said before, first WIP.

    More to come!
    Last edited by atgill; 09-03-2012 at 09:46 PM.

  2. #2

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    nice work atgill. i like how its coming along.
    “We do not want to be part of the fashionable crowd. We prefer to be on the edge.”
    Takasi Uno

  3. #3

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    Thank you Tee!

    For this second post, some progress in the skin around the column, right leg and left breast:



    I also started working on the head, separately. After thinking a while, decided that the best would be to start by the horns. So, first thing I made was put together a toothpick and a 1mm wire, transversally, like making a "T". The toothpick to hold the head, and the wire to cover it with putty and model the horns.
    To join both elements used a ball of epoxy clay, that would also be useful as the base volume for the Demon's head.
    Once dry, I covered the wire with the mix of brown + green stuff and attached the little cones (also made with this mixture) for the other ends of the horns, and the one in the forehead.
    On a third step, used some more mix to smooth the joints of the cones with the main horn, and finally apply some texture with a pin.
    So far, looks like this:
    Last edited by atgill; 09-03-2012 at 09:34 PM.

  4. #4

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    looking real nice. I really like how the right leg looks.
    “We do not want to be part of the fashionable crowd. We prefer to be on the edge.”
    Takasi Uno

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by atgill View Post
    I use two types of modelling putty. The well known green stuff, and other one called just "epoxy clay"...
    The other one, I'm not sure if it's what the rest of the world knows as brown stuff, or milliput.
    This is the kind of thing I like to blather about - new and different sculpting materials. And I think it is different to brown stuff and milliput. Much too light for brown stuff (which tends to be sold at prices too large and amounts too small to use for much bulking-up), and it looks too tan and 'shiny' for any of the milliput types.
    Can you take any photos of the packaging? Does it just say 'epoxy clay'? That makes me think of Aves apoxie clay, but it could be something completely different.

    Back to the main topic: the sculpting, with the textures and broken skin, is excellent. The only part I'm not sure about is how the nipples are sharply pressed into the flesh, rather than sitting on top. Although I don't know if you plan to cover all the brown anyway.

  6. #6

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    Of course Verm1s, the packaging looks like this:



    It comes in two commercial formats: 250g, wrapped in film and foil as shown in the photo, inside a box with the brand (Suprabond) printed on it. If you buy 500g, it's only the four blocks of clay (two brown and two white), each one wrapped individually, and the four of them put together in an aluminium foil bag, finally sealed with transparent shrinkable plastic (?). No box, no brand, for large-scale buyers only.

    I worked with this one for some years (http://coolminiornot.com/247604) until discovered green stuff and the possibilities mixing both.

    Suprabond makes an assorted range of glues, plumbers putty, etc. This one is known as the artisan's one. My hypotesis is this:
    There are two kinds of resins used with fiberglass: epoxi and polyester. I had the opportunity to use both of them, and the epoxi resin takes 50% base resin, and 50% catalyst. (Interesting, same proportions as the clay). If used to make volumes (casting for example), it tends to remain sticky many days after the catalysis is done. To avoid this and also economize resin (it's quite expensive), you usually have to add some bulk (not sure if it's the right word). It's a powder, inert, normally calcium carbonate (ressembles talcum, or flour). It doesn't interact with the chemical reaction, just thickens the mixture depending on how much you add. And (finally get to the point), I once poured a little too much extra, and the resin became... a clay! I'm almost sure this subject is just epoxi/y resin with bulk added to each component separately. I think the same goes to green stuff, but that formula surely contains some silicon, the texture reminds me of the coating for high-temperature resistant cables, and it's supposed to withstand the vulcanization process.
    Well...it seems I also like to blather about this

    So, back to the main topic, thanks for the compliments. The nipples are that way in the model taken as reference, as having been ripped off I guess.

    Enough blablah, some progress in the face:
    Last edited by atgill; 09-03-2012 at 09:35 PM.

  7. #7
    Brushlicker dogfacedboy uk1's Avatar
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    I love that high elf in your link - voted and commented.

    Head looks great, but overall while this forgeworld design looks pretty good from a distance, I have never liked the way it sits/squats whatever it is doing. Shame you don't get the chance to do something different with the model. Anyway, so far so good with your rendition of it!

    dfb


    My Gallery Here

    CMON Rank: Will paint for Jelly Beans...

  8. #8

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    Thank you dfb,

    About the model; sure, can't say this is the most creative commission I made so far. But I think every once in a while is good to reproduce something, as a way to test your skills/technique and keep learning.

    Speaking of wich;


    Some advance on its back. The right side consists of a texture like there was some rounded things underneath the skin about to burst (eggs, larvae, nurglins, who knows?)
    To do such effect, I first covered the area with a thin layer of putty. Immediately, out of the same fresh clay, made some spheres and placed them over. The first layer was meant to be the bond between the spheres and the main body. This union had to be strong because the next step (once all the previous solidified) was to add some more clay over the area, press until the spheres show up, and then rub with the wet finger to smooth the transitions of the surface.
    That's why if you look close to the photo, you'll surely notice the different green tones between the spheres and the skin surrounding them. I used a mixture with less green stuff for the second step.

    Started with the sword also. It was made out of a 3mm plasticard sheet, filed down on its edges, and to reproduce the rust texture over the blade (the photo doesn't show it) I applied some plastic cement, being generous.
    After a minute, this melted the surface of the blade, and I beated it with a wire brush (guess a toothbrush would also make the trick). The result pleased me, but if this had not worked, I was planning to do something similar (brushbeating), covering the blade with greenstuff instead of melt the plastic surface.
    Last edited by atgill; 09-03-2012 at 09:35 PM.

  9. #9

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    Thanks Atgill. Much appreciated.

    Quote Originally Posted by atgill View Post
    It's a powder, inert, normally calcium carbonate (ressembles talcum, or flour)... I'm almost sure this subject is just epoxi/y resin with bulk added to each component separately.
    I get the same feeling from apoxie sculpt sometimes, which seems to resemble the texture of the unmixed and cured Suprabond stuff a little (including the excellent chibi elf). I'd need to try a bit myself to see how close the resemblance actually is, but I think an order to Argentina might be a bit much for me. I get nervous ordering stuff from mainland Europe...

    Anyways. I enjoy the same method myself - mixing a hard-curing putty (in my case, apoxie sculpt or milliput) with green stuff. I use something like that for most of my sculpting. They seem to go together very well, IMO.

    Excellent progress on the Unclean One, too! I'm still impressed by the skin textures, but more so. And the facial detail. Maybe not completely original, as mentioned, but I think it's still interesting to see - and read about - how it's taking shape.
    (And if you ever felt like posting the occasional pic to the minisculpture forum, I certainly wouldn't mind. )
    Last edited by Verm1s; 10-02-2010 at 02:44 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member delta 408's Avatar
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    Great work so far. My favorite part is how you made the horns.

  11. #11

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    Thanks delta408!

    You're welcome Verm1s.
    Your description makes me wonder that epoxy and apoxie are just written-language variations on the same thing. In fact, I think the pronuntiation is the same. By the way..."hard-curing putty" thank you for the technical term, didn't knew how to say it in english.
    I'll gladly repost all this in the forum, appreciate the invitation.

    Now, update time.


    Left arm. Notice the unblended (?) spheres in the shoulder. That's the in-between stage I was explaining on the previous post. The next step will be cover the area with soft putty, and rub with the finger to blend the surface.

    Some advance on the sword; jaw, teeth & tongue also.
    Last edited by atgill; 09-03-2012 at 09:35 PM.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by atgill View Post
    Your description makes me wonder that epoxy and apoxie are just written-language variations on the same thing.
    Ah, not quite. Epoxy is the technical term. (after looking at the wikipedia article, that's as technical as I want to be) Apoxie is the brand name of some of Aves Studio's two-part products, like Apoxie Sculpt and Apoxie Clay.

    By the way..."hard-curing putty" thank you for the technical term, didn't knew how to say it in english.
    Heh! Thanks, although I don't know how technical it is. That's just what I call them. I've also called them 'epoxy clays', which could cause a bit of confusion with one Aves product. (Strangely, I haven't seen many others define them vs. rubbery putties, though there are veteran sculptors here who can correct me.)

    More good sculpting, if it needs to be said. Thanks for the WIP shots of the spheres, too.
    Is the arm a single mass of putty, stuck on and shaped in one sitting; or did it have an armature or core added beforehand? Also, are you going to wrap the tongue around the blade, eventually? I'd be interested to see how you do it.
    Last edited by Verm1s; 10-07-2010 at 09:15 PM.

  13. #13

    Default Update!

    Well hello again!!! It's been a long time without posting anything.

    The main reason is...the whole commission consists of the four Great Demons of Chaos. WFB scale, but similar to FW's ones. I started a WIP thread on Nurgle because I began with that one. But lately I've been working on the other three.

    So, @Verm1s: sculpted the arm by putting together 3 spheres of fresh epoxy, and pressing them in the space between the shoulder and the hand. At this point, it looked liked the arm of Michelin's puppet. When cured, I covered the outer surface with some putty, and made the sores on it. No armature nor core.

    Now, the update:


    at this point I had to assemble the head, and model the neck area. For the other arm, I first sculpted the hand separately around the hilt of the sword. Then made the right arm, the same way as explained before.
    Once the sword was in position, I used pure green stuff to make the tongue and the tentacle coming out of the belly. I started sticking a long, flat, green stuff "noodle" to the mouth; wrapped it around the blade, cutted the surplus and modelled some cuts on it. (sorry Verm1s, but I was alone when made this, needed my two hands and couldn't take step-by-step pictures )
    Finally, used some pure epoxy to blend the spheres over the left shoulder. It's easy to distinguish it by the colour.
    Last edited by atgill; 09-03-2012 at 09:35 PM.

  14. #14

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    Looking very nice. Good job.

  15. #15

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    really nice work. i wish i had 1/2 of your sculpting skills.
    thanks for the step by steps its giving me a better understanding on sculpting.

    Tee
    “We do not want to be part of the fashionable crowd. We prefer to be on the edge.”
    Takasi Uno

  16. #16

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    nice moobs lol, really nice sculpt. fat boy looks gross well done.
    LAAARRFF, I SPLIT MY SIDES!!

    cassar [demigod] |ˈdemēˌgäd|
    noun ( fem. demigoddess |ˈdemēˌgädis| )
    a being with partial or lesser divine status, such as a minor deity, the offspring of a god and a mortal, or a mortal raised to divine rank.
    • a person who is greatly admired or feared.
    ORIGIN mid 16th cent.: translating Latin semideus .

    on a serious note, i do commissions, no really i do, ask and ye shall receive


  17. #17

    Default Finished!!!

    Hi again,

    since this WIP thread has collected more feedback in one month than my entire gallery in two years , I'm seriously thinking of making another one, containing updates of all the projects I'm working on.
    But I would like to complete this one first.

    So, here's more views and different angles of the sculpture so far.



    This may be helpful to understand some things explained on the previous post, like how the tongue is wrapped around the sword. In this set of pictures, I've modified the chin on the customer request, and started the Nurgle mark on the sword's pommel.



    Then I filed flat the sword's cross-guard surfaces. If I'm after sharp edges, I prefer to work filing and sanding rather than modelling fresh putty. In this cases in particular, the mixing of green stuff with epoxy clay shows how versatile this mixture is (try to file or sand pure green stuff, no good).
    The same for the pommel, I made the basic volumes with fresh putty first (they had to be a little larger, because some material would be removed later) and when cured shaped it with jeweler's files.
    Finally, I finished the left leg and foot, and modelled the little nurgling embracing the intestines (cute, isn't it?)

    For the final picture, I've chosen two that are closely related to the title of this thread, and the intention of this commission: one on my hand, and the other one mounted on a 50x50mm square base.



    Last edited by atgill; 09-03-2012 at 09:36 PM.

  18. #18

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    I dont have any words to describe its greatnes!

  19. #19

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    he's really cute the little guy very very good gs job!

  20. #20

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    Verrrrrry cool sculpt!

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