Tyranid carapace Painting
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Thread: Tyranid carapace Painting

  1. #1

    Default Tyranid carapace Painting

    I need some advice on painitng my tyranid carapace\'s. I have read the posts where people say to use the future floor wax but I am not sure how to use it to get the right effect with the colors I am using. I was planning on basing w/GW scab red and then using blood red for the shading. By just hitting the ridges w/the paint. Then using blazing ornge on the very tips and edges. Then to blend everything I was going to ink/w a mix of Blazing orange and red ink. I need some help w/where to use the FFW, or should I just use it in every step. Any help would be great.

  2. #2

    Default Carapice Painting

    A good way to do those carapices would to be to start with a 50/50 mix of black and scab. The red will covver easier with that base. Leave this dark color in the recesses between the plates and blend it into scab on the plates from the recessses. Red gore next, then red gore and blood, then blood, then blood and blazing and blazing on very tips, sometimes you might wanna leavve that fianl highlight out. THis will give great color transition without inks, but is very time consuming. :D

  3. #3


    Yeah that is the problem, I just bought the army and have over 130 models to paint!!! It will be a daunting task!! And I have only painted miniatures for a year or so. I Need something that is quick but will also look ok.
    There is nothing better than seeing a whole painted army on the table! :D I am hoping to have it done in a few months but we\'ll see how that goes. Thanks

  4. #4

    Default Fast Way

    A good fast way would to be to pant scab red, then blood red as a highlight, then maybe orange if you see fit. A wash of chestnut ink or red ink would go well over top for color transition. Use a good matte varnish and no-one will know you used inks. :innocent:

  5. #5
    Consummate Brushlicker Jericho's Avatar
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    Mixing Chaos Black and Scab Red is never a good idea. It looks a bit greyish... mixing with Scorched Brown is better. A lot more natural looking red is the product.

    And I agree with Dave about the ink. Red and Chestnut is perfect. This too adds to the more natural looking red color instead of a very artificial one.

  6. #6

    Default nids nids nids

    Now link one down below is they way you would paint your Nids for a golden demon and would take a long time befor the army would ever be ready for serious play. However the end result is stunning.

    Now the second link on dipping is the way I chose and I can honestly say that the end result looks better than anything that has ever been fielded aginst me. The Dip method will also allow you to have your army finished in 2 weeks or less depending on your speed and you can do more modeling with the extra time. On a note, After you finish dipping the nids and they dry spray them with a verry light dull coat to take the gloss finish off them.

    Check it out.



  7. #7

    Default For Homer

    Ok I have gone over my post and have a few more things to say.

    First since your a begging painter/player definately use the dip method on your nids. There is no way you can go wrong. I used firey orange for the nid skin and hawk turquoise for the carpace parts and get noticed every time they take the field. The only hard detailing you will have to do are the eyes, teeth, and bases.

    Now for the second bit of info you should have is about the future floor wax. This has to be the best $6.00 I have ever spent at Food Lion. I got a .50 cent flip top squeeze bottle from Michaels, Mix 1 part wax to 3 parts water, put the mix into flip bottle and now your set for the next 5 years (we call this the magic wash). ALLWAYS!!!! Use the magic wash with all your paints no matter what, It only take one drop of this stuff to work but after a little pratice you will get use to it. The magic wash took me from an adverage mini painter to now having to paint everyone elses minis.

    Email me and I`ll send ya some pics of my nids and any helpful tips.


  8. #8


    if you have access to it, I like to use Reaper Paint\'s Aged Red Brick as a base for dark reds, then highlite up to blood red. Aged Red Brick is a very dark red, almost brown, that you dont have to mix to achieve (which is harder to get right ie mixing browns and reds etc). For best results do a 50/50 mid-step highlite then pure blood red on the highest points. However it will take a long time to paint that many nids this way, and \"troop\" nids can be boring to paint.

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