Sculpting Cloaks
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Thread: Sculpting Cloaks

  1. #1

    Default Sculpting Cloaks

    Hi all,

    I'm in the process of trying to sculpt a fur cloak from scratch and struggling a little with the pelt base to get it looking right. I've rolled out my green stuff, got it as smooth and flat as I can, but the whole thing is, well, floppy and lack-luster. I know it's not cured yet, but I just don't think this is quite how cloaks are normally done, as soon as I manipulate it so I have a fold and it's flowing in the direction I want, I'm finding that it's just relaxing with gravity. I was hoping to have put some small rips and such like, but not a chance without messing everything up.

    My initial thought is that the GS is just too flexible and I need something that sets a little bit more rigid - any suggestions? I think using a GS/milliput mix could be an idea, but not positive. I do have a few other putties lurking but wondered if anybody had any suggestions before I waste loads of time and putty experimenting.


  2. #2
    Brushlicker Bloodhowl's Avatar
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    How long are you letting it cure before trying to work it? Drape it over the model in the rough shape you want, then let it sit for 20-30 mins and then work it into it's final shape. It should be cured enough at that point to hold it's shape, but still be flexible enough to allow you to adjust it.
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  3. #3
    Superfreak!!! Dragonsreach's Avatar
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    As bloodhowl says allow it to cure for 20 minutes or so before trying to work it.

    Alternately fold a section of baking foil into the shape you want the GS to follow on the model.
    Take off the model, support the underside with blutack, lightly wipe the foil with vaseline and work the GS on the tinfoil.
    When fully cured remove from tinfoil and Voila.
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  4. #4


    What they said, try searching for sculpting flags, it's more or less the same technique

  5. #5


    Cheers all. I left it a good 30 minutes after I flattened it before I tried to do anything and then gave it another 30 before I got it almost there. Overnight it's completely cured - it's still slightly flexible. I might try again using some of the tips (thanks Mike) and possibly see if the magi-scultp I've got upstairs has a different constitution

  6. #6


    It might also be useful to put in a bit more blue instead of the yellow part Makes it harder and it's cured a bit faster
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  7. #7


    Sod that, if you have magic sculp, use that, much easier. Maybe mix a tiny amount of gs with it though

    and use talc to stop it from sticking

  8. #8


    What's the difference between GS and Magic Sculp?
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  9. #9


    GS is more rubbery...has more memory. Both while working with it and after it has cured. So it tends to be used for organics, things with curves, etc.

    MS is a little less influenced by memory or what happens to other parts of itself. Makes it easier to do things like weapons, electronics, etc, stuff with sharp defined angles. Similar to ProCreate, ApoxieSculpt. It's kind of similar to a mix of GS and Millput.

  10. #10


    Quote Originally Posted by freakinacage View Post
    Sod that, if you have magic sculp, use that, much easier. Maybe mix a tiny amount of gs with it though

    and use talc to stop it from sticking
    I've actually got a whole range of different putties - GS, milliput, MS, BS and procreate, that I bought in a fit of enthusiasm a while back. I've just never got round to using anything anything other than GS and milliput (and a mixture of the two). I was actually using baby oil to stop the GW sticking, never thought about talc... Not sure what time I'm going to have this week but will try and find a bit of time and have another bash

  11. #11


    Out of choice I will only ever use magic sculp and gs. ms heavy for blending, sharp edges and rigid stuff, gs heavy for organics

  12. #12


    for flowing things like cloaks and cloth I use a mix of GS and A+B (UK one)
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  13. #13


    Not sure if this will help, but it's worth a look I think...

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