KruleBear's WIP WIP - Page 4
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Thread: KruleBear's WIP WIP

  1. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexandra View Post
    Courage, men!! Even if it doesn't go well, you'll learn from it
    LMAO This is what happened Wendesday when I had courage (well maybe not the learning ) . Took the citadel skeleton and did some light washes with brown ink and it looked a lot better. Then summoned up my cowardly lion courage and glazed green ink in the shadows--ok the green obviously wasn't as dilute as i thought and made a heck of mess, but kept going. I know, lets do some overall glazes with dilute black ink! Whoops not dilute enough, so might as well keep going (another dumb idea). Ended up looking like someone dumped carbon black on him in the middle of a fight. Oh well, live and (hopefully) learn

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    I did glaze the yellows on the reaper skeleton several times with the base yellow, but it doesn't really look like it from the photo. I also actually did light glazes with brown and black ink on the bone (I guess I did learn something from the disaster on the 1st skeleton )

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    I then used some dilute blue ink in the shadows and did light glazes of brown--it looks a lot darker IRL, but the photos still look bright. I also highlighted the bone with GW bleached bone on both minis, as well as playing with the metals some more.

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    Ok I played with the midtones on the second photo of the Reaper skeleton and it appears closer to irl. Which looks better to you guys? Also should I go darker?

    As an aside I think if I bump that damn sword one more time I'll be learning how to pin a small connection. I appreciate the feedback you all have been providing.

    --Mike

  2. #62

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    Bones are coming along. I'd leave the yellow. There's only so much you can do afterwards with washes and glazes.
    Proud owner of a Cassar!

    #1378/9460
    You are ranked 1351 out of 9441 artists.



  3. #63

  4. #64

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexandra View Post
    Looking better!!
    Thanks Alexandra & Trystan. After looking at all the mini's I have unpainted and on order (stupid kickstarter and indigogo) I decided I needed to pick up the painting pace. Having not finisted a mini in about 5 years or so is not a good pace to finish the 1000 or so I have floating around plus the stich punk (TOR), red box games, sedition wars, and reaper mini's I will have coming with crowdsourcing endeavors.

    So I've decided to call the citadel skeleton with the scythe done. He isn't a well sculpted mini and I just plan to add him to the ranks of my skeleton army (that I've never played) anyways. Even though it looks silly, I'm keeping with the army base theme of sand painted as grass with the edges painted dark brown. However the good dark brown I had is no longer available, and my current brown that is the same color looks like it will take about 10 coats to cover smoothly. So since he is not done, I'm not gonna post any picts and jinx myself on completing him.

    I did work on the base of the reaper skeleton and you can see what I'm talking about with the brown paint on the edges. Also as I suspected the sword finally broke off. And now I'm going to bragg--I actually drilled the sword and fist out without drilling my fingers and I didn't penetrate the blade surface. Hoorah

    I also lightened up the yellow on the shield, and I'm pretty happy with it. I have a bit of touch up on this guy and then I'm going to wrap him up. In particular: belt, belt buckle, highlight the boots & gloves some more, make the raised dirt in front of him look more like exposed rock, and clean up the stones at his feet. If you see something else I'm open to suggestions.
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    Also--do you prefer the black background or should I go back to the white? I built a photo box this weekend and I think the pictures are slightly better, but I still haven't hit the colors as IRL.

    And the next model I dug out of the box. I believe another old Citadel mini. I got some smooth transitions, but the base coat I started with was too light (but gave me great ideas for human skin). There is some dark blunt shadows that I put on last to try to determine how dark I wanted to go--haven't decided yet. The black splotches are actually brush on primer to repair mold lines I found after painting the base coat. I think I got most of it covered well on the fur, but haven't tackled much else other than a wash to see details.
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    My goal is to get the citadel skeleton done this week as next weekend is shot (the 4th wedding in norther Wisconsin this summer...grrrr...at least this time I'll get to drive around Lake Michigan and stop in to see my dad in Michigan on the way home). Cheers all...

  5. #65

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    If the mini isn't well sculpted that usually mess your painting a bit, because it doesn't give you the right kind of shadows ( remember Milosh's and the Napoleon eyes ). Taking that in consideration, I think you are going in the right direction

  6. #66

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    Love that old citadel mini, ahhh those were the days!
    "we reach for the stars, forever looking to the heavens, our minds filled with wonder and the glory of the cosmic all; stretching the boundries of human knowledge and securing the solar system for the Human Species out there beyond the final frontier so one day our decendants will be as gods!
    You hold our hands so we don't blunder into things........and do the photo shop.
    "
    . Andyg


  7. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by 10 ball View Post
    Love that old citadel mini, ahhh those were the days!
    Lol. There are plenty more where that came from...i'm a cheap ass and cannot bring myself to get rid of anything.

    Quote Originally Posted by Alexandra View Post
    If the mini isn't well sculpted that usually mess your painting a bit, because it doesn't give you the right kind of shadows ( remember Milosh's and the Napoleon eyes ). Taking that in consideration, I think you are going in the right direction
    I agree, except in the case of the old Citadel skeletons which are very cartoony. Example is the forearm bones being bigger than the thigh bone. And on this one the upper hand bones are carved as a single bone plate. Looks good ranked up, but humorous as a stand alone model. One of the reasons i had switched to Reaper minis in the day was the beleivability in there skeletons ( and the fact that GW prices were escalating significantly in the early '90's).

  8. #68

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    What's this? A nice new package from Britain
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    Let's see, it looks like the Indigogo funding for Tor Games. Oh crap, more mini's to paint
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    But I can't resist the thought of an army of stitched puppets with muskets fighting fey that look to be modeled on the tooth faries from the HellBoy II Movie.
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    Well I ought to have them prepped and primed in time to start painting in say 2030

    Did get some progress on the Reaper skeleton base.

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    As an aside I tried a new blue background which I like--at least once I get the wrinkles out. But I started playing with camera settings again and I think the colors took a step back from the black background in being as irl.

    Some work on the minotaur, but i really had those picts messed up. They turned out black as night--note to self do not use the aperature setting "bulb". I need to find a professional photographer to train me on taking photos of minis. Everytime I review the photographty articles on CMON I seem to make things worse.

    And drum roll please--I am calling the Citadel Skeleton done--first completed mini in over 5 years. Good enough for tabletop and rough handling. The matte coat has not dried yet in these photos, but wanted to post something before I call it a night. (I did see a brown splotch on the scythe blade--but at this point I'm going to pretend it isn't there.)

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    As always feed back is appreciated.

  9. #69

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    Those mini's look cool. Here's to 2030! The skele's look good but the pics seemed kinda washed out with light.



    Moe
    "I was too distracted by the ladies to be scared of your bear. That is the second weirdest sentence I have ever typed on this site o_O"- Zab

    "Paint flavored coffee is the bestest!"-me

    Brush Brother Moetle

    Take a peek you might learn something or teach me something :-)

    http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/...tic-Wonderland

  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by moetle View Post
    Those mini's look cool. Here's to 2030! The skele's look good but the pics seemed kinda washed out with light.



    Moe
    Yeah, and it makes the colors look much brighter than reality. I could fire up the old DOS computer nd manipulate in photohop, but the Sony NEX 5 DSLR ought to be able to take decnt picts without it. I think i need to realign the photo station so i can connect the camera directly to the computer. Thn i can play for a few hours to understand the settings by getting immediate feedback.

  11. #71

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    Played with the camera and took a series of shots. I think I am getting closer to reality. What do you think? I was going +2.0 overexposure as I've seen recommended in several places and it was obviously way to much; or my lights are still way too bright even with tracing paper used as a diffuser. This photo is at +1.0. The photos between 0.0 and 0.7 looked the most realistic, but i messed something else up as they were out of focus.
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    Also the wip of the minotaur from my work last night. Added some purples to nipples, snout, and veins that i hope to blend in. I'm getting too damn shaky to get these fine details in the right spot even with the good brush. I added some red browns to the back, but the photos didn't come out. I'll try to post tomorrow. Note that most of the white spots on the fur are from overexposure, but a couple are from rubbing my massive paws on the mini while painting

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    Cheers

  12. #72

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    When painting white you need to know what kind of white your going to make it. Common choices are a blue white or a grey white. And for bone type colors you can do others as well. But lets start with a cold blue white. First your going to start with your near white color, in the old citadel range this could be Space Wolves Gray, and use that as a base coat. Then do a selective wash with the darker shade, in this example Shadow Grey. The selective wash should only be in the recesses of the surface. Don't wash the whole surface. Also, since your washing with a paint your going to want to add a lot of water and a little elmer's (or other white/pva glue) and varnish to help it flow.

    Now you have your base and the shade, from there you can start layering white. It is always going to take a bit of work doing many coats of white, but this should get you on your way. I did something like this for the side doors of the attached pic. More pics here: https://plus.google.com/photos/11820...79064363703537
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  13. #73

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    About taking pics of your minis, see this link : http://thescreamingalpha.com/?p=552

    I found it very helpful and, oh joy!!, the guy explains it without technic bable

  14. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by iron_weasel View Post
    When painting white you need to know what kind of white your going to make it. Common choices are a blue white or a grey white. And for bone type colors you can do others as well. But lets start with a cold blue white. First your going to start with your near white color, in the old citadel range this could be Space Wolves Gray, and use that as a base coat. Then do a selective wash with the darker shade, in this example Shadow Grey. The selective wash should only be in the recesses of the surface. Don't wash the whole surface. Also, since your washing with a paint your going to want to add a lot of water and a little elmer's (or other white/pva glue) and varnish to help it flow.

    Now you have your base and the shade, from there you can start layering white. It is always going to take a bit of work doing many coats of white, but this should get you on your way. I did something like this for the side doors of the attached pic. More pics here: https://plus.google.com/photos/11820...79064363703537
    Thanks for the input iron weasel. You painting is very nice and clean. The white really pops. I have been learning a lot of these lessons the hard way. The citadel skeleton was primed white as he was prepped years ago using my "faster skeletons" method of brown ink wash on white base and then highlighted / dry brushed with more white. Looks ok on tabletop, but obviously not the direction i am wanting to move to. I also have a couple regiments of low quality casted skeletons i will finish up usng this quick method to get them out of my way.

    The Reapwr skeleton was prepped awhile back as well, but using a glossy grey primer. I just treatedthe primer as the base coat and i am much happier with it. As far as the Warjack my intention was as you recommend ( originaly a grey/brown white), but as i learned the hard way, i started with a base coat that was way too light...proably should have been the final highlight. Then i really mucked it up. Went back based on feed back from the forum and went for a blue white. I am pretty happy with it. Itis still pretty bright like they just came off the factory floor. I will probably finish the other Warjacks to a similar brightness. I have a bunch of Menoth Warjacks on the back burner that i will take what i have learned and go for a darker brown white.

    Cheers

  15. #75

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alexandra View Post
    About taking pics of your minis, see this link : http://thescreamingalpha.com/?p=552

    I found it very helpful and, oh joy!!, the guy explains it without technic bable
    Very good article. Thanks Alexandra. I think this tells me i am slowly heading the right direction. There are a couple camera ideas i will try to implement from the article. Then i guess i need to stop being lazy and use the software to make tweaks. I have just been lazily using Windows Picture Manager to resize and crop. (trying to keep Will's advice in mind--stop worrying about the photos and paint )

  16. #76

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    Some time ago I found a very good approach on painting white here.

    Is a tutorial by Cyril Abati.

  17. #77

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    Quote Originally Posted by atgill View Post
    Some time ago I found a very good approach on painting white here.

    Is a tutorial by Cyril Abati.
    Thanks for the link atgill, i had not seen this one in the tutorials (of course i usually browse from the IPad and it seems to have a problem pulling up anything, but the first pages of the tutorial heirarcies). I am going to try the battle damage they show...i will just need to be extra steady to underline the scratches.

    I think my next grouping will be the armoured fighting Khador troops. I will probably keep them all red..so not much white for a while other than finishing up some low quality skeletons. I think since i have a squad of the troops i am going to practice with the airbrush and experiment with the zenithal technique.

  18. #78

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    Yeah, you probably need a break after doing both white and yellow, two horribly difficult colors. Like the addition of the pink on the minotaur. Maybe a little down around the ankles too to balance out? In any case good to see some classic minis get a little love. They're so much fun to paint when you're a bit short on time since they're usually simpler than the newer stuff.

    Like the TOR stuff too. 2030 should be a fun year.

  19. #79

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    Quote Originally Posted by khavor View Post
    Yeah, you probably need a break after doing both white and yellow, two horribly difficult colors. Like the addition of the pink on the minotaur. Maybe a little down around the ankles too to balance out? In any case good to see some classic minis get a little love. They're so much fun to paint when you're a bit short on time since they're usually simpler than the newer stuff.

    Like the TOR stuff too. 2030 should be a fun year.
    Here is to 2030 . I like the idea of the pink at the ankles...maybe even around the toes. Thanks Khavor.

    I just got through disc one of my Jen Haley two disc set. Her explanation of the eyes sounds simple...I am sure I can make it diffi ult though . I have been reading the forumn about magnifying visors and think i will get some of the recommended cheap 4x reading glasses. Then maybe can see where i am putting my brush on those arm veins and eyes.

  20. #80

    Default Golgoth the Eradicator is Finished

    Success---I'm calling the Reaper skeleton complete. I looked him up and found he is 02270 Golgoth, Eradicator. If I did it right he is also my first posting to the gallery . (Question--is it necesarry to start a submission discussion thread ????)

    http://www.coolminiornot.com/313174

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    I purchased a pair of $6 3.0x reading glasses at Walmart and miraculously I can actually see the small details now. I tidied up some of them on Golgoth, but not all as it was time to move on. I also replaced all the bulbs in my photo area with daylight compact flourescents and covered them with parchment and I think I am darn close to real life. I also backed of on the zoom which seemed to help in my feable eyes. The only manipulation of these outside the camera was croping and resizing. If you have any further suggestions I will implement them in further paint jobs. I did download GIMP today as I couldn't figure out how to combine two photos for the gallery using the basic MS photo software and It appears I did it correct--alas another small victory

    Excitement number 2--The sale of my farmette closed yesterday, so I now have a check in the bank. Definately feels good--can pay for the Reaper Kickstarter now .

    Now that I have the glasses, I am going to work on fixing the sloppy paint on the minotaurs veins.

    I'm also looking at primed vampire to start painting as well but he doesn't look too exciting, so may skip for few more years.

    As an aside, does anyone know where I could get 28mm scale cattle or livestock skulls? I'm thinking of using them on some based I have coming up.

    I also found some juice caps in the gas station that I think will make really cool gothic bases for the Menoth Warjacks--especially if I use the plaster suggestions Sprocket just put in his blog to spice the tops up.

    Cheers

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