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Thread: Brand New at this, first attempts...

  1. #21

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    no need for airbrush priming matey. Just get a decent can (I use GW white and black primer) shake it well and be conscious of ventilation, if outside be mindful of wind and dust blowing about and I've heard that Hot and cold weather can cock up the smoothness of the spray. As with paint thickness, i think less is more with primer. You want enough to give the mini a smooth thin coverage but not a solid shiny finish.

    when using white my mini's look grey when sprayed as the layer is thin.

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  2. #22

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    I use Krylon fuzion white matte... Maybe I'll stick with it. I guess I find I don't really get every nook and cranny, but I suppose that isn't necessary, huh?

  3. #23

  4. #24

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    Airbrushes are handy, but totally not necessary. For anyone just starting out I'd advise against getting one. It'd just be an extra hassle of something more to learn.

    I found DickBlick to be very expensive for shipping, but obviously that depends on where you are. I buy winsor and newton sable brushes from http://www.artsupplies.co.uk/brushes...lour-brush.htm

    Rosemary and Co are also very good - that's what I'm using just now. Make sure it's their sable brushes you get. They do do some very nice synthetic ones, too, for things like dry brushing or mixing paints.

    i don't know if davinci brushes are any good. Hopefully somebody else can comment on that

    ps - this is handy stuff, too

    http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil...ef=pd_sim_ac_2

    although I haven't dug around for the best prices on it.
    Last edited by me_in_japan; 10-02-2012 at 11:17 AM.
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  5. #25

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    I've tried the DaVinci brushes but I am still partial ro W&N brushes. As for an airbrush I would say steer clear of them for now. They do have a steep learning curve and the small amount of priming you need to do can easily be handled with a can of primer. As for your sword. try doing glazes of black or sepia and that will tone down the metallic.

  6. #26
    Brushlicker Bloodhowl's Avatar
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    There is a whole section in the Sticky Thread devoted to paint brushes and paint brush selection. The Sticky Thread can be found as the second thread at the top of this forum. There are also several threads that compare/review the different brushes from various manufacturers, a forum search should turn them up.

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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by karpouzian View Post
    Are Da Vinci Kolinsky Sable brushes ok?
    EG http://www.amazon.com/Vinci-Kolinsky...kolinsky+sable
    Simple answer YES I use Da Vinci for my water colours and they are damn fine brushes.
    HOWEVER the set you have linked to Are Water Colourist Sizes and you may find that they are way too large for you. MOST minipainters (me included) Settle for Sizes 1, 0, 00 as their primary working tools. My personal preference is for W&N series 7 (not the miniatures).
    Finding a supplier of Sables (Kolinsky for choice) may take a little hunting BUT several suppliers have their own range Rosemary & Co*****, Jacksons art supplies***, Ken Bromley**** (4 miles from where I live, lucky me!)..One thing to consider a lot of cheap shops sell "Artist brushes" often refered to as Camel Hair >Shudder< a set of these can be used for painting bases and keeping your sables for the importance of the figure.

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  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonsreach View Post
    Simple answer YES I use Da Vinci for my water colours and they are damn fine brushes.
    HOWEVER the set you have linked to Are Water Colourist Sizes and you may find that they are way too large for you. MOST minipainters (me included) Settle for Sizes 1, 0, 00 as their primary working tools.
    So how would these sizes relate to sizes I am used to?

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by karpouzian View Post
    So how would these sizes relate to sizes I am used to?
    Size 1 = General all round workhorse brush and if kept in good condition has a fine point. GW Equivilent = Standard size.
    Size 0 = Finer detail and good general allrounder. GW = Detail.
    Size 00 = Fine detail, lines, dots freehand. GD = Fine Detail.
    I believe in Karma, what you give, is what you get returned. Affirmation; Savage Garden
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  10. #30

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    Don't want to be captain obvious but.. you might want to fix the red on the eye socket?


    I assume nobody else said anything because yknow.. its so obvious ?
    But considering the first thing your eye will be drawn to is the mini's face.. and youve obviously spent time getting the red into the eye sockets in the first place you should really (imo) tidy up the surrounding socket with a bit of white..


    Also, with all due respect to what everyone else is saying about 'go out and spend £50 on brushes' - its not necessary imo, if you start with basic tools, perfect your skills/technique.. When you have a good grasp of how to use basic tools, you will be that much more effective using expensive ones.

    Just my 2pence

  11. #31

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    I've used Da Vinci brushes and they're pretty good. I don't have any kolinsky sable from them, though. Mostly I use W&N Series 7.

    Does anyone else use a slightly larger brush, like a size 2?

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stilton View Post
    Also, with all due respect to what everyone else is saying about 'go out and spend £50 on brushes' - its not necessary imo, if you start with basic tools, perfect your skills/technique.. When you have a good grasp of how to use basic tools, you will be that much more effective using expensive ones.

    Just my 2pence
    Sorry but that is a misconception.
    Fine quality brushes behave far differently than El-Cheapo brushes and there are marked differences with the handling and paint flow between GW, Army Painter, Daler, Winsor & Newton, Rosemary & Co and Da Vinci.
    Having the best tools you can afford makes the learning process easier, plus if you invest in good tools you tend to maintain them properly.
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  13. #33

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    I agree, if there's one thing worth spending on its brushes. I use W&N series 7 - perfect imo.
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  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pygmalion View Post
    I've used Da Vinci brushes and they're pretty good. I don't have any kolinsky sable from them, though. Mostly I use W&N Series 7.

    Does anyone else use a slightly larger brush, like a size 2?
    Series 7 are kolinsky sable m8



    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonsreach View Post
    Sorry but that is a misconception.
    Fine quality brushes behave far differently than El-Cheapo brushes and there are marked differences with the handling and paint flow between GW, Army Painter, Daler, Winsor & Newton, Rosemary & Co and Da Vinci.
    Having the best tools you can afford makes the learning process easier, plus if you invest in good tools you tend to maintain them properly.
    Couldn't agree more. It's the same as expecting that a £6 hand blender from Tesco is going to perform and last as well as a £35 branded one. You might be lucky but probably not!

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuneBrush View Post
    Series 7 are kolinsky sable m8

    I think Pyg was stating he does not have any Kolinsky Sables from Da Vinci.

    Check out more of my wife's photography at: http://thereasagwinn.com


    Why choose Space Wolves over other chapters?
    ‘They are desperate, and as savage as beasts.’
    Magnus lost his smile.
    ‘I no longer think of them as animals, Ahmuz, though I once did. I now think of them as the purest of us all. Incorruptible. Single-minded. The perfection of my father’s vision.’
    Excerpt from Battle of the Fang



  16. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonsreach View Post
    Sorry but that is a misconception.
    Fine quality brushes behave far differently than El-Cheapo brushes and there are marked differences with the handling and paint flow between GW, Army Painter, Daler, Winsor & Newton, Rosemary & Co and Da Vinci.
    Having the best tools you can afford makes the learning process easier, plus if you invest in good tools you tend to maintain them properly.

    Again, no offence but its not a misconception.. That's just your opinion.

    If your unable to use standard GW paintbrushes and get good results and you -have to- use a high quality brush.. and that works for you, good for you... But you shouldnt (brace for terrible joke) tar us all with the same brush...


    There are certain tools that i find invaluable... Silicone based clay shapers for example.. Sculpting would be VERY VERY hard without them.. They are invaluable.. But i would NEVER tell anyone you cant get the same results with a toothpick, water and a lot of patience...

    ...Because you can, if you have the time and patience.. I guess some of it comes down to skill as well at a point.



    Quote Originally Posted by RuneBrush View Post
    Couldn't agree more. It's the same as expecting that a £6 hand blender from Tesco is going to perform and last as well as a £35 branded one. You might be lucky but probably not!
    its not a blender! its a paintbrush.. And to be fair.. How can you have much trouble with a hand blender to warrant spending £35 on a 'branded hand blender' -- you just turn the handle?



    I still feel this is bad advice for someone "Brand new at this" and they're giving advice based on their own situation of many years of wargaming -- When this is advice is surely more suitable for someone who has done it with the basic tools... But now wants to 'step it up' a bit..


    You want to trash a few paintbrushes by leaving them standing in water overnight first.. (happens to most fairly early in) Before you get it ingrained into your mind that you dont do that... And you want to have that happen with cheap brushes, not £50 ones.

    GL!

  17. #37

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    It's not that you can't get good results with a cheap brush. With enough patience and skill, sure. As you said, you could sculpt an entire figure with water and toothpicks, and have it turn out just as good as the guy who used the fancy stuff. But why recommend that he do it that way first? There's a reason everyone is recommending these brushes, and it's not because we work for the brush manufacturers
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  18. #38

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    in a succinct phrase: respect for the tools.

    Personally i didnt learn that until after ruining them, i started out with good intentions but eventually you just become complacent; then (again, speaking personally) you learn through experience of ruining them..

    Like i said, i respect everyone elses opinions -- if it works for them, then obviously their workflow, mental attitude, etc.. all contribute to allow them to buy expensive tools straight when starting the hobby and have no problems.



    But i wouldnt advise someone getting into the hobby to go out and buy expensive brushes before having first used a set of mediocre ones... for the reasons ive already stated.

    People are welcome to have differing, or opposite opinions... But i still stand by mine!



    Ofcourse, i've just realised im speaking in very general terms.. You still need at least what ive described as a 'mediocre brush' which i believe is what people have misunderstood.. One of those cheap plastic / nylon thread ones they throw in with airfix kits (its been a while since i bought one but thats what i remember) isn't good enough....
    ..Gw brushes though, i'd consider good enough to get the job done and practice and they're £4!
    Last edited by Stilton; 11-02-2012 at 06:19 AM.

  19. #39

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    Fair enough. I started painting again about a year ago, but I used crappy brushes when I first started too. So I can see your point. I used to let them sit in water...
    Proud owner of a Cassar!

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  20. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stilton View Post
    its not a blender! its a paintbrush.. And to be fair.. How can you have much trouble with a hand blender to warrant spending £35 on a 'branded hand blender' -- you just turn the handle?
    I think you missed what I meant a little, my analogy was to an electric hand blender (the type you use for blitzing soup) - a cheapo £6 one is nowhere near as good as a decent £35 one on a number of levels My analogy was trying to point out that you do generally get what you pay for when it comes to "tools" and a paintbrush is no different to a chef's knives or a mechanic's spanner.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stilton View Post
    I still feel this is bad advice for someone "Brand new at this" and they're giving advice based on their own situation of many years of wargaming -- When this is advice is surely more suitable for someone who has done it with the basic tools... But now wants to 'step it up' a bit..

    You want to trash a few paintbrushes by leaving them standing in water overnight first.. (happens to most fairly early in) Before you get it ingrained into your mind that you dont do that... And you want to have that happen with cheap brushes, not £50 ones.
    Quote Originally Posted by Stilton View Post
    Personally i didnt learn that until after ruining them, i started out with good intentions but eventually you just become complacent; then (again, speaking personally) you learn through experience of ruining them..
    There is no reason why brand new painters should have to mess up their brushes in order to learn not to do it again, when people can impart their knowledge in places like this. I've messed up more than my fair share of brushes in the past but that's the lovely thing about this forum - it's full of painters to give you snippets of advice. There's also more painters than wargamers here too

    Quote Originally Posted by Stilton View Post
    Gw brushes though, i'd consider good enough to get the job done and practice and they're £4!
    Agree completely (I've got some GW's mixed in with my W&N and R&C) - however bear in mind that GW did change their brushes a year or so ago and they're much better quality than previously. A lot of people here will have used the old poorer quality ones and not the newer ones.

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