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Thread: Broken Forgeworld Angron piece

  1. #1

    Question Broken Forgeworld Angron piece

    Hi everyone, I just got myself a FW Angron for Christmas and discovered that the Aquila above his neck guard has broken off and gone missing during the casting process. I've tried repairing it with milliput, but find that due to the small surface area of where the piece has broken off, it keeps falling off even if I use superglue. Can anyone help me with suggestions to fix it? Cheers in advance.

  2. #2

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    Phone Forge World up and speak to them, they'll most likely replace it for you

  3. #3

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    I would usually call them if I were missing a part, but I can't really be bothered for such a small thing, and it would probably be faster for me to repair it cause it takes FW stuff around 2-3 weeks to reach me

  4. #4

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    Cut the piece on the other side, so it's even

  5. #5

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    Paint it up as battle damage.

  6. #6

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    easy fix:

    -sand the edge, so that it is plain
    -take a piece of plasticard, finner than the actual neckguard and glue it in place (has to be shorter/smaller than the missing part)
    -take Green Stuff (better than Milliput in this case, because of it's stickiness and flexibility when dried, the thing won't brake again) and model the details over the plasticard thing

    The plasticard will ensure a save fit and the GS will make it look good. Easy as that.
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  7. #7

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    Id call FW and get a new one bro. For £50 you should be willing to wait a couple of days.
    If it aint broke....break it

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by simeon6 View Post
    Id call FW and get a new one bro. For £50 you should be willing to wait a couple of days.

    This. And they may just send you a whole new figure.

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  9. #9

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    Thanks guys, I spoke with James at FW and he said they would send me a replacement body, I offered to return the broken one but he said it was alright .
    I took Cyn's advice and glued a piece of resin similar to the broken piece, but when I try to sculpt over it, it just breaks off as the surface area is so small. Would simply using greenstuff to fix this be better? I've only got milliput at the moment, but I think GS may be more suitable as it's less rigid and more sticky, let me know what you think.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmanimalofwar View Post
    Thanks guys, I spoke with James at FW and he said they would send me a replacement body, I offered to return the broken one but he said it was alright .
    I took Cyn's advice and glued a piece of resin similar to the broken piece, but when I try to sculpt over it, it just breaks off as the surface area is so small. Would simply using greenstuff to fix this be better? I've only got milliput at the moment, but I think GS may be more suitable as it's less rigid and more sticky, let me know what you think.
    I think you're going to need to insert a pin into the resin and build up on that (i.e. make an armature). Whatever you do will ping off unless it's fixed into the resin itself.

    Good news on the replacement body (which reminds me I need to get some heads replaced).

  11. #11

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    Good to hear you're getting a replacement

    Just as a general thing, any decent epoxy putty should be able to cling to an area of resin this small since you can sculpt new ears and noses without them being so delicate that you'd be worried about them popping off with a bit of handling. This is assuming there's nothing on the surface interfering with the bond of course, and that the epoxy putty is up to snuff. I'm not a fan of Milliput but it should still do it if it's fresh enough, if not then Kneadatite (GS) sure would.

    Something that projects like this is still prone to being knocked free with a casual bump, so one simple tip to help a better bond form is to drill small holes into the surface at opposing angles but not for pins, when you smoosh the putty into place it'll go into the holes and these will act as an anchor - the putty would have to break for it to fall off then.

    Still better to sculpt this in stages: form the 'keel', then sculpt the detail as a separate step. Either that or make it overthick, then pare/carve down.

    Einion

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