MAXXxxx WIPs - Page 40
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Thread: MAXXxxx WIPs

  1. #781


    Ouroboros miniatures - New Skin might fit what you want. Or maybe something from Aradia Miniatures
    Last edited by ekipage; 01-26-2019 at 04:07 PM.

  2. #782


    thanks for the suggestions I'll look into them.

    a pretty off request: if anyone has the game "SAO: Fatal Bullet" on a PS4. Can you help me with the PvP trophy? (basically I'd need to win 5 times in pvp, but I'm old and mostly just a casual player, so normally I have little to no chance)
    I think it's take about 30 minutes or so, maybe even less (loading screens + killing the other player 8 times/match or doing 3mil damage to boss/match should take less than 6 minutes).
    Forgot, that it works again.

  3. #783


    First some of the things I've managed to paint last year / early this year. Level is mostly ttq for gaming (altough I don't see having a game with them anytime soon).

    Aliens. It's weird how grey they look on the photo. Must be overexposure, as real life they look pretty much just black/dark grey.
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    The Final Battle from origenarts.
    Ok this is a bit of a cheat as I painted her in 2013 or 2014 (after it was released), but somehow never took a photo, this december was the time.
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    Mahud from LotR. I always wanted to paint one of these. Especially because of the camel and wicker-armor.
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    Roman Legionaires from Scibor miniatures (pretty much the Adeptus Custodes before GW released the official models). Took only 8 years to get from undercoated to ttq.... (yeah, always has something better to paint)
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    Titanicus models.
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    And a fun little project with Variable Fighter Girl VF31-Kairos. Nothing much to see here. Mostly a toy like model assembly. What I'm proud of is that instead of using the stickers I actually painted the parts, where it's colored differently to the plastic.
    Will have to glue it a bit more as it comes apart too easily AND is really unstable.
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    Finally something that's more than a play/ttq
    75mm Ajax from Infinity. After almost a full year of not painting / painting ttq max this is the first where I tried to get back to a better quality.
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    Esther from Nocturna Models. Play with the Nocturna Skintone (fairy flesh) and Red (warm red) paint sets. Pic is washed out, but I'm overall happy how both the skin and the clothes look like irl.
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    Forgot, that it works again.

  4. #784


    And now the two busts I paint atm.
    Both are just basecoated and roughly highlighted with an AB. None of them are touched by brush yet.

    For skin I used the nocturna flesh paintset (realistic skin part of it). Fun thing is, that I used exactly the same colors and mixes for both. Just the highlight/shadow area sizes are varied according to what I wanted.
    Plus a little play with surrounding colors (the creamy cloth makes the skin look darker than it really is).

    The dark skin didn't show the shadows well, that's why there is a 2nd front shot without the lighting to show it a bit better.

    The cloth pattern on the Ourobos bust is not my deed. It's sculpted like that on the bust. You 'only' have to paint it corretly (light dustings with AB, would be harder with a brush) to bring the pattern out.

    There is one big question to the 'Fractured' bust: how should I paint the cracks? simply edge highligth as it's a skin? or some glow (green or blue) coming out of the cracks as it were a machine? Other ideas?

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    Name:  NocturnaAileenWIPWeb.jpg
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    Forgot, that it works again.

  5. #785
    Freak! SaintToad's Avatar
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    Great hear from you, bud. I like a lot of what you’ve shown, especially Ajax & the Mahud. That wicker armor is fantastic!

  6. #786


    Welcome back to the land of the living!

    Quote Originally Posted by MAXXxxx View Post
    There is one big question to the 'Fractured' bust: how should I paint the cracks?
    You can also consider the dead skin, like on this chinese vampire.

  7. #787


    Where did you get the xenomorph models from? IMHO I think they look gray (instead of black & white) because your camera adjusted exposure and white balance so that the median value in the image would be gray.
    As far as I understand that sometimes mucks up pictures with some extreme contrast.

    I like the Ajax you did, it's a great looking model and you did a wonderful paint job on it.

  8. #788


    Thanks SaintToad. It's nothing special, just a few washes and drybrushes to bring out the texture.

    LLemming: soo basically paint them black and edge the skin.

    gorb: Prodos Games, AvP figures. To be precise:
    - Alien Stalkers (the 4 on all fours) (basically the dog-alien from alien3)
    - Alien Infants (the ones with smooth heads) (basically the alien from alien)
    - Alternate Alien Warriors (the rest) (the ones with crested heads), They are basically a some pre-release sculpts that you can get only if you order the whole Alien bundles (the 299GBP one or the 599GBP one).

    The good is that they are ready for some games and are relative fest to paint up to this level. The bad they still need their bases done and there is like anoth 200 of them in boxes... and then the marines and predators....
    Forgot, that it works again.

  9. #789


    Some nice output Maxxxx. I don’t know why, but I really like the camel.

  10. #790


    will try to make some photos of the 4 busts that I'm working on / completed.

    in the mean time some interesting pigments/paints:

    Especially interesting:
    Green and yellow from powders,
    super base, coat, black 2.0 and 3.0, silver from the potion range.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  11. #791
    Freak! SaintToad's Avatar
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    Hey MAXXxxx, good to see you.

    This is the source for a glowing pigment I’ve enjoyed playing around with. I did a little write-up here.

  12. #792


    mehh, pics are as bad or worse than the painting... but as promised:

    Aileen, mostly done. I might add a protective layer of varnish and be done with it
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    Cleopatra, because why focus on the busts/minis I have on the desk when I can start a new one... I really needs a matt varnish as for the neclace thing I used a gloss one to help with the lining. Other than that I also consider it done.
    Snake pattern was interesting to do. At the beginning I had fear of messing up the snake, but turned out quite good. And it was really easy to do as all I had to do was paint in random patches without any planning with diluted paint, so that a ring forms on the outside (something we usually try to avoid when using thinned paint)
    Name:  Cleopatra_wip.jpg
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    The last one I'm working on. In the pic it doesn't show, but the eyes are done with blue metallics. Added a bit of definition to the skin + made the cracks stronger.
    All that remains is the hair/jewelry in the hair.
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    The skins on all three were done with the same colors, just the areas painted differ in size.
    In case anyone interested in the colors:
    - base: Nocturna base flesh
    - hl1: Nocturna natural flesh
    - hl2: Nocturna highlight skin (the 2 dark skinned busts have very little/almost none of this)
    - sh1: Nocturna burned flesh
    - sh2: Nocturna shadow (the "cracked" has much more of this color than the others)
    Last edited by MAXXxxx; 04-01-2019 at 05:54 PM.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  13. #793


    Superb skin painting displayed here. Those Nocturna sets give truely some excellent skin color. I also find them a bit thinner than normal Vallejo, needing less thinner. What's your thought about this.

    Keep up the magnificent work,


  14. #794


    I don't know, after shaking the hell out of it it doesn't look thinner to me, just the same as VMC.
    Not that I really expect it to be different as the manufacturer is Vallejo.

    What I really like in the Nocturna skin sets are the colors themselves. They go well together and there are some nice hard to mix colors (especially in the nocturne flesh box, the normal flesh shades exists as part of other paints (vmc, scale75, p3, ...))
    Last edited by MAXXxxx; 04-04-2019 at 05:20 AM.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  15. #795


    getting ready for the travel for eastern. I'll take some of the finished busts with me

    and to have something to paint during next week this:
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    Hope I can paint a believable horse mini

    edit: hmm, that photo looks sh*t. No idea why my phone does that blurry thing sometimes.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  16. #796


    I’d so you are off to a great start for a believable horse mini. The highlights and shades are all in the right place and the base colors look believable. It will be interesting to see where you take it.

  17. #797


    Your titanicus look great. The ouroboros busts look good. The nocturna flesh set has given a fantastic finish to your skin work. A glow emanating from the cracks on Fractured would look good when finished. Also consider painting them up realistically as angry seeping fissures in the skin with blood pooled inside them. Maybe a thin trickle of blood here and there.

  18. #798


    hi everyone, need a bit of advice on how to paint a dropfleet scourge dreadnought.

    I have 2 ideas in mind, but I can't decide and you may have a better 3rd option.

    So far:
    1. prime it black
    2. AB a light metallic base (VAC-Steel if what I have for this atm)
    3a. going the official way: the metallic is shaded with black, then colored with green and purple ink
    3b. using GA interference colors: metal is shaded with black, then whole thing is sprayed with GA-Interference colors
    (4. some lightening with either pure metal medium or with GA-Iridescent pearl)
    5. spines and details picked out in a really light metallic (VAC-Chrome for example from what I have on my desk)

    Can't really decide which would be better.
    a. should look similar to official color scheme
    b. will look mostly black-white in images, but have a colored sheed to it that's different from different angles

    So far I only undercoated the parts (1 main body + 20 'wing' sections) with black.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  19. #799


    “So far I only undercoated the parts.” Sounds like the story of my entire painting life. Your idea of using the interference paints sounds interesting. Should look fantastic in real life where you can really see the beauty of interference colours.

  20. #800


    paintings are in progress, but this week I had to make a pause as it's 35-41C (95-106F) during the day (and close even at night...)
    I need to take some pics of : Slaanesh character, some SM, LotR Mahud army, Dropfleet scourge dreadnought, mostly just ttq stuff, no busts or anything really display quality

    Anyway I have a question in case you did this. I have a side project, where I wanted to make custom steelbooks for my PS4 games. As I don't want to freehand them I planned to use Airbrush + printed decals.
    Now for the decals 2 questions:
    1. which should I use? There is one that's like the modellin decals (put in water, put on surface, fix with varnish) and another, that activates with water, but have to be fixed by baking it to the surface.
    2. for the second, can acrylic handle 175C heat used during the baking. It's not good if the decal is ok,but the underlying primer/white paint cracks or discolores.
    For paint I used GW's "undercoat" (corax white) and Tamiya gloss white as a base.
    Forgot, that it works again.

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