Blackadder's WIP scratchbuilt Thunderhawk - Page 5
Page 5 of 22 FirstFirst ... 3456715 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 100 of 426

Thread: Blackadder's WIP scratchbuilt Thunderhawk

  1. #81

    Default

    Vertical Stabilizer Sheeted

    I sheeted the vertical stabilizer with 0.030 inch styrene because I want to add an airfoil to the surface. The notches are cut out and framed and the rudder axis threaded through the bushings.

    http://i.imgur.com/2Hrrb7t.jpg


    Next I cut out the superfluous material I used for a trueness guide to insure the slots were parallel and would not bind when the rudder went through its travel extremes:

    http://i.imgur.com/HlkrfxF.jpg


    The final step of the sheathing and dressing the slots for homogeneity and I was ready to build the rudder core

    http://i.imgur.com/oR1XPKE.jpg

  2. #82

    Default

    The Rudder Core

    The vertical stabilizer and the rudder are heavily armoured for some reason which predisposes the need for counterweights I suppose.

    Therefor to make the rudder not appear too bulky requires a thin and strong internal structure.

    I opted for a center 5/32 inch tube for the rudder axis with a 0.080 inch rod for the axle. This gave me a strong hinge point to build on. I reinforced the axis with a styrene "I" beam and affixed a 0.250 X 0.060 inch strip for the basic structure.

    I then sheathed the ruder with 0.030 inch styrene for the < shape and overall rudder lateral length.

    So the entire rudder core is only 5/32 inch thick and extremely strong for the base material.

    I did pretty much the same for the leading edge counterweight extensions and clamped them so they all were on the same parallel to the rudder core.

    http://i.imgur.com/UNBGVHe.jpg

  3. #83
    Freak! Demihuman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
    Posts
    2,365
    Blog Entries
    5
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    Awesome.

    I bought my first #11 blades yesterday. Trying to sculpt some eagle wings from styrene using the technique you used on the fan props. They came out pretty good! And no blood spilled, unlike when i tried to use the #10's... sheesh, my poor fingers.

  4. #84

    Default

    The Rudder Fitting

    So as you can see the rudder is very thin at this point and once the armour sheathing is installed there will be the core sandwiched between layers of external skin elimating weak glue joints in critical axle areas........ (I hope)

    http://i.imgur.com/pZuXwBy.jpg


    Once dried the rudder is mounted for fit and the tolerances are very tight through the extreme movement of the rudder travel.

    http://i.imgur.com/lcnNb7f.jpg


    http://i.imgur.com/6d0Jroq.jpg
    Last edited by Blackadder; 07-22-2013 at 03:55 PM.

  5. #85
    Senior Member roninjr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Spring Branch, TX. U.S.A.
    Posts
    319
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    Very cool watching this beauty come along as it is. Your doing a stellar job of it & I'm enjoying the explanations of your thought prosses. Lovely work.
    “People sleep peaceably in their beds at night because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf”.
    George Orwell

  6. #86

    Default

    The engineering approach to this is a real eye opener. It's just not how my brain works, but I have huge respect for those who can do it. Very impressive work.
    "Facts are the impregnable bulwark that stands between us and the insidious evil of bullsh*t." - Pikey, over on Nagoyahammer

  7. #87

    Default

    Armour Detail on Tail:

    about half done on the vertical stabilizer detail. Things are starting to shape up. The rudder has about fifteen to twenty degrees of arc left stop to right stop so that should be adequate. I hope tobe installing the rear vents and panels tomorrow.

    http://i.imgur.com/O6bUR5C.jpg


    In this above view you may be able to discern that the stabilizer tapers slightly towards the leading edge.

    http://i.imgur.com/BHEUfQ1.jpg
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  8. #88

    Default

    I reckon by the end this thing is actually going to fly

  9. #89

    Default

    Well perhaps more flight worthy than the original but not much more.............

    Vertical Stabilizer Assembly

    Is pretty much done. Rivets are outsized yeah I know it but they go with the clunky motif of the model.

    In the foreground of the image below is the rudder assembly that shows the multiple layers of construction:

    http://i.imgur.com/WJBeC0j.jpg


    Rudder mounted and at full right rudder position:

    http://i.imgur.com/tQHJZiO.jpg
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  10. #90

    Default

    Beutiful attention to detail, and I just noticed the air brake hinges ! AWESOME
    Wargames Terrain Workshop
    Home of High Quality Gaming boards, Scenery and Miniature Sculpting

    Contact us @ wargamesterrainworkshop@yahoo.co.uk

  11. #91

    Default

    Thanks, Yeah well ya gotta pay attention..........

    Actually I haven't opened them since I built them last year.

    Volcano Cannon

    Time to address the most ill conceived appendage ever to be affixed to an aircraft hull. To my mind a Volcano weapon is a line of sight plasma/energy beam so mounting it on the top of a fuselage would necessitate the vehicle having to be diving to utilize the weapon on a ground based target, right or am I missing something?

    Granted it may be useful in air to air combat or shooting at targets when landed but it seems like a FW denizen just looked in the bitz box and said "Hey why not stick one of these on the dimmed thing to fill that big empty space on top?"

    http://i.imgur.com/LHAncPq.jpg



    Fortunately I happen to have spare one in my bitz box as well the problem now is do I use it or scratch build it.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  12. #92

    Default

    Awesome work Blackadder, amazing to see what people can do with styrene and some time (and a lot of skill of course!). I've also been following your Warlord titan build, and that to is simply breathtaking.

    With regards to the dorsal mount on the Thunderhawk, I've always found it a little silly to mount such a large weapon up there (though they've been there since way before FW did their version). In most cases it is apparently an over-sized battle cannon, or at best a turbo-laser used to clear a landing zone or take out defensive installations. My only thought is that as the Thunderhawk is meant to be usable in the vacuum of space, perhaps the dorsal weapon comes into play there? Who knows? Like most GW stuff I think form was considered way before function!

  13. #93

    Default

    Thanks for the info...........

    The Interminable Thunderhawk Vents



    Its not that I have forgotten the Thunderhawk but the tedium of making the vent grills is wearing me down and I needed the Reaver diversion to keep intact what little sanity is left to me.


    http://i.imgur.com/REu0C7Z.jpg



    http://i.imgur.com/qU5rbLL.jpg



    Bibblebibblebibblebibblebibble.................... ....
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  14. #94

    Default

    Vents Finally Done

    After a week of knee surgery convalescence I finally got my groove back and finished the vent slats. Not up to my usual standard but they are in a position that I can readily replace them if I get ambitious.


    The main gun superstructure should go together quickly now that these labor intense objects are completed.


    http://i.imgur.com/JcsFVWZ.jpg
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  15. #95

    Default

    Sorry to hear about the knee surgery, hope you get better soon. Thawk vents look good to a meer mortal, keep up the stunning work
    Wargames Terrain Workshop
    Home of High Quality Gaming boards, Scenery and Miniature Sculpting

    Contact us @ wargamesterrainworkshop@yahoo.co.uk

  16. #96

    Default

    Thanks,

    Superstructure Continues:

    If there is a roundabout way to do things leave it to the Blackadder to pursue that course.

    The superstructure seems a straightforward trapezoidal structure with nothing out of the ordinary to complicate building it until I decided the perpendicular sides should cant in a few degrees at the top and the three armour plates on either side likewise. This adds a taper to the structure's sides much as the columns curve slightly on the Parthenon to give a better illusion of straightness. Were the sides perfectly perpendicular they would appear to flair at the top.

    I also changed the angle of the rear vent panel because my T'hawk is much longer than the original and therefore can be more streamline...... (? Really, Streamline?)

    The overall effect is longer, lower and wider than the FW model and even the 3D rendering is slightly blockier.

    I hope I don't come to regret these departures.........


    http://i.imgur.com/aDLrvCg.jpg



    http://i.imgur.com/d9Ekz6j.jpg
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  17. #97
    Freak! Demihuman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
    Posts
    2,365
    Blog Entries
    5
    Rep Power
    15

    Default

    Dear Mr. Blackadder,

    How do you get your shapes so true? I have been playing with some Evergreen strips and sheets and I have stumbled onto a 'glue, then trim, then file, or as you say "dress" technique But I wonder what you do to start something like one of the boxes that make the three armor plates on the super structure. I have seen the "Chopper" for making 90 degree cuts but to glue them up do you use something for a form? Iwould love to see a picture of your tool chest. For example, what do you use for drawing angles?

    Thanks for the thread!

  18. #98

    Default

    Regarding tools I don't use anything special. Aside from what you see here I do have a Dremel cordless, a cheap electric scroll saw, and a desk top belt sander all of which are rarely used.

    http://i.imgur.com/pIJjy.jpg



    The main cutting tool I use is the retractable blade utility knife and I do have a see through plastic 12 inch scale to take measurements off of my LCD monitor.

    I have two computer programs that allow me to scale the images and magnify them; ACDSee 14 and ULead Photo Impact 13 Editor.

    The biggest problem new scratchers have is using the wrong cutting tool. Craft cutting tools such as Xacto knives are useful and I have two pictured here but they are for fine detail work not for basic cutting and shaping.

    As stated previously the Stanley Utility knife, a steel straight edge, sanding blocks (coarse and medium grit), and single cut 'farmers' file are used to get straight clean cuts and crisp 90° edges. You'll never get that with a 1/4 inch Xacto knife.

    Another trick is score and snap; using the utility knife and straight edge score a line on the sheet plastic then a second to deepen the cut ( make additional passes for thicker sheets) then snap the sheet at the score line.

    Always make two or more shallow cuts instead of trying to cut through with a single pass.

    Dress your edges with the file and sanding blocks.

    This should get you started, ask for any clarification on the above.

    As for detail, its hard to explain but my feeling is "More is better." A good supply of scrap styrene and bitz is essential and just try to duplicate what you see. Practice is the catch word here, there is no shortcut to experience and I am still learning myself.

    Regarding the clothes pins I reverse the wood jaws in the spring for better clamping and I do have quite a few likewise with the modeling bar clamps. They are cheap here, I don't know if they are in New Zealand but you can order them on line from Amazon or Harbor Freight for about $2 bucks each:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...t?q=bar+clamps
    Last edited by Blackadder; 08-09-2013 at 07:56 AM.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  19. #99

    Default

    Simple Trunnion Mount for Cannon

    For those of us with childish bents that have to have moving parts on their models a simple trunnion mount for the main cannon on the T'hawk.

    Starting with a reinforced 7/16 tube with an 3/8 tube sleeve inserted for strength I bored a 3/16th diameter hole through the exact dead center of the tube to mount the barrel core.

    http://i.imgur.com/DzsSh0s.jpg


    Using 2 x 6 mm scrap strips for the trunnion mounts in the superstructure clamped in place with clothes pins overnight gave me a strong base to mount the trunnions.

    http://i.imgur.com/YXQQDKO.jpg


    With the barrel mount trunnions in place in the slot I'm ready to seal the forward end of the mount to capture the elevation assembly for a simple and effective cannon mount elevation system.

    http://i.imgur.com/jfO9HW2.jpg
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  20. #100

    Default

    Really nice step by step guide wanting to do moving parts. All of your threads are a wealth of knowledge and information.
    Have to agree the best tip is practice !
    Look forward to many blackadder posts to come
    Wargames Terrain Workshop
    Home of High Quality Gaming boards, Scenery and Miniature Sculpting

    Contact us @ wargamesterrainworkshop@yahoo.co.uk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Privacy Policy  |   Terms and Conditions  |   Contact Us  |   The Legion


Copyright © 2001-2018 CMON Inc.

-->