Using Greenstuff
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  1. #1

    Default Using Greenstuff

    Hi all,

    never used this before but require to use it to do some filling of some rather horrendous games and join lines. Done a search on the forum but there is a whole load of text to go through, so can anyone by chance point me to some good GS tutorials, mainly for filling gaps?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2

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    Try any of the tutorials here

    Other than that, keep your tools wet. GS gets very sticky, and quite frustrating, if your tools (and fingers) are dry.

    Also, straight greenstuff does not sand. So keep that in mind if you were hoping to smooth things out after it cured.
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  3. #3

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    Doh! The same link previously posted - stickies are sticky for a reason i guess! Thanks Trystan.

  4. #4

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    If it's just for gap filling, GW do a "liquid green stuff". Saves faffing around mixing the two parts.

  5. #5

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    im sure i saw a tutorial somewhere where you roll a ball of GS and flatten it into a disk and then at a drop of water to the surface and can use it to paint it into gaps - much like liquid GS i guess. But for the life of me, i cant find it again

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goosefeather View Post
    im sure i saw a tutorial somewhere where you roll a ball of GS and flatten it into a disk and then at a drop of water to the surface and can use it to paint it into gaps - much like liquid GS i guess. But for the life of me, i cant find it again
    I've heard of doing it with Milliput, but I don't think that works with GS.

    *edit* and the liquid GS that GW sells is just a pricier version of the green putty modelers have been using for years, like this
    Proud owner of a Cassar!

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    You are ranked 1351 out of 9441 artists.



  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goosefeather
    im sure i saw a tutorial somewhere where you roll a ball of GS and flatten it into a disk and then at a drop of water to the surface and can use it to paint it into gaps - much like liquid GS i guess. But for the life of me, i cant find it again
    No you can't do that with GS, it's not water-soluble. Using water that would be for something like Milliput or MagicSculp, where water dissolves them very well, or for GS you'd be using an organic solvent.

    Einion

  8. #8

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    Get some size 0 silicon colour shapers. It will make your life so much easier if you are going to work with GS. Blick has decent prices on them. Get the firm ones. GS doesn't stick to silicon.
    "Remember, you can't spell paint without a little pain."

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  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TrystanGST View Post
    Also, straight greenstuff does not sand.
    Erm just seen this.
    I've not encountered an inability to sand greenstuff, either traditional GS or liquid.
    I believe in Karma, what you give, is what you get returned. Affirmation; Savage Garden
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    , and proud of it.

  10. #10

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    thanks for the tips folks. Just used some GS to fill and sculpt a massive gap where my Mino's head joins the body. Suprised how easy it is to work with this stuff. I love it!

  11. #11

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    Question: has anyone used both Magic sculp and Apoxie, and how do they stack up? I ask because there seems to be a big difference in prices. I just saw a youtube vid that says you can mix Sculp with GS to make the consistency thinner when "wet" and hard enough to sand when dry. I know from personal experience not all 2 part epoxies are equal. Just tried some JBWeld stuff and it's horrid for trying to sculpt detail as it's too sticky and runny.
    Last edited by Chrispy; 05-29-2013 at 11:06 PM.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
    Question: has anyone used both Magic sculp and Apoxie, and how do they stack up?
    Yes, and yes.




    Obviously you'll want a few more details so:
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/...modeling-clays
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/...ersion-Firebal
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/...s-Magic-Sculpt

    As I mention in at least one of the above threads, Apoxie Sculpt and MagicSculp ar similar enough that they could be used interchangeably if you get along with them. But just in case you don't know, in addition to AS Apoxie also make Apoxie Clay which is quite a bit different in feel, much stiffer (also a bit more expensive).

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
    I ask because there seems to be a big difference in prices.
    Although Apoxie Sculpt is consistently more expensive than MagicSculp there shouldn't be a huge difference in cost for the larger packs. Where were you pricing them? Some places really gouge, especially for some of the colours.

    I'd highly recommend the larger packs in case you were only looking to get smaller amounts. They both keep very well, shelf life is indefinite for MS now according to the manufacturer claims, and it can be extended if necessary... like if you need the stuff to last for a decade.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
    I just saw a youtube vid that says you can mix Sculp with GS to make the consistency thinner when "wet" and hard enough to sand when dry.
    Yep, you can do this using any of the clay-like putties added to Kneadatite. Although you can sand it straight to a degree.

    The main thing to explore when you have one (or both) of the alternatives is whether you use the Kneadatite at all.

    Einion

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonsreach View Post
    Erm just seen this.
    I've not encountered an inability to sand greenstuff, either traditional GS or liquid.
    I've never had a problem sanding GS either. If I am just filling gaps on a model or base ,I don't like using expensive epoxies. I use Elmers Wood filler. It is water soluable, doesn't need mixing. It sticks to anything. Its cheap and can be purchased at any department or hardware store. I am curious about Aves Apoxie Sculpt Sculpt, can it withstand vulcanized mold making?

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
    Thanks Einon, I was browsing Amazon from MS and Apoxie, and it seemed in the 1lb stuff Apoxie was $25 while MS was $16.. I've found some similarly matched prices for different suppliers on the same site, so I think it is just a question of what people want to charge.
    Check the shipping. Pretty sure of the seller in question there and their low-low prices are offset by high shipping, high enough that the price is then pretty much the same as other vendors (listing the item with free shipping, so the price listed is the price).

    Also be sure to check the colour being offered - "Natural" is cheapest. Even white is a colour and consequently a bit more.

    The natural colour of MagicSculp is a very light grey, perfectly fine IMB so no need to get anything else unless you have a preference for working with clay of a specific colour.

    The natural colour of Apoxie Sculpt is sort of a mid-grey, but it's also very slightly translucent. This is barely noticeable, however the colours are all more opaque apparently so with AS it can be worthwhile getting one of them if you don't have to pay a lot extra for it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
    I'm not sure I'm going to be using 5lbs of the stuff- but I say this with the intention of sculpting custom 1/6 or 1/8th scale figures eventually in the back of my mind, so there is that.
    This might help make the decision for you: the 4lb kit (AS) and the 5lb kit (MS) are less than double the cost of a 1lb kit! Makes it a bit of a no-brainer, yah?


    Quote Originally Posted by Goblinhood View Post
    I am curious about Aves Apoxie Sculpt Sculpt, can it withstand vulcanized mold making?
    In short, yes - many white metal figs have masters made from Apoxie Sculpt.

    Einion
    Last edited by Einion; 06-04-2013 at 03:52 PM.

  15. #15

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    Actually my no. 1 piece of advice here would be not to use GS for gap filling. Any of the more clay-like putties are far better suited to the task. Kneadatite is fab stuff, just not so much for this despite how much it is used for the job.

    Einion

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