Khonner's WIP
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Thread: Khonner's WIP

  1. #1

    Default Khonner's WIP

    Hello, I'm new to the forums and I want to try to improve as a painter. So I'm starting this thread. I'm currently working on some Trollbloods. The first up is my Fell Caller. I welcome any and all feedback. Thanks. Khonner http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pi...7cc56784bf.jpg

  2. #2

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    Welcome I like your mini, nice and colourful reminds me of the 1980s GW paint jobs.
    Thin your paints down and build up the layers and keep up the painting!

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    Last edited by 10 ball; 06-12-2013 at 06:25 AM.
    "we reach for the stars, forever looking to the heavens, our minds filled with wonder and the glory of the cosmic all; stretching the boundries of human knowledge and securing the solar system for the Human Species out there beyond the final frontier so one day our decendants will be as gods!
    You hold our hands so we don't blunder into things........and do the photo shop.
    "
    . Andyg


  3. #3

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    Appreciate your comment, how did you get the image to display? I usually use Reaper Master series paints in a 1 to 1 ratio with water, do I need to increase the water part? It's the slime green on his belt that's too thick, right? Please let me know if anything else is whacked out..

    Khonner

  4. #4

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    I'm not familiar with the reaper paints so I'll let others comment on the level of dilution - although the red and green on the mini do look like the paint was slightly thick. I'd say that the your focus should be on contrast whilst keeping the blends smooth. If you you want the miniature to pop like the guys who are getting 8+ on CMON you need greater contrast. So far example on the skin on the arms it looks like there are two layers - the base colour and a slightly lighter grey. If you can work through a few more layers you can build contrast.

  5. #5

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    The skin tones and metallics are a great start. You seem to have a natural eye for those already. Also your brush control looks good and its a very clean paint job so you are off to a strong start. Keep with it and yes, push the contrast to exaggerate the details!
    "Remember, you can't spell paint without a little pain."

    Blog: almostperftec.blogspot.ca
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    P&P: Neil Szabo

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Khonner View Post
    Appreciate your comment, how did you get the image to display?
    [ img]httpdootdotdangcom/whateva [ /img] (minus spaces)

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the feedback so far, I worked on him a little bit more tonight. Please let me know if you notice any improvements or screw ups.. Thanks again..

  8. #8

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    Looks good. I would leave him alone now to stop the paint going chalky and show us the next Troll
    "we reach for the stars, forever looking to the heavens, our minds filled with wonder and the glory of the cosmic all; stretching the boundries of human knowledge and securing the solar system for the Human Species out there beyond the final frontier so one day our decendants will be as gods!
    You hold our hands so we don't blunder into things........and do the photo shop.
    "
    . Andyg


  9. #9

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    Next up, a Bouncer Troll.. He's is in rough shape, but I have some time this weekend to hopefully smooth em out. Comment away!



  10. #10

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    Looking at Zreef's Chrome effect, I wanted to work on some NMM. Here is what I have so far with a champion hero. It's far from done, but I think I have the base grey pretty good. I'm going for more of a steel type look for the armor, I might try some gold for the cod piece. Let me know what you all think. Any tips would be appreciated as well. Thanks. Khonner


  11. #11

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    Looking very nice, Khonner!

    My NMM is terrible right now but two things I do know. NMM depends on good blends and contrast. Blending goes hand in hand with thinning your paints. I use Reaper paints a lot. There's no set ratio for dilution because there are so many factors, certain colors can be thinner than others, age of the bottle (even if you just bought it, who knows how long it was sitting in inventory), humidity of the area you're working in...do you have fans going? Live in a swamp and have 110% humidity like I do? lol!

    You may want to try thinning your paints gradually. I've always heard about the consistency of skim milk...but...that's an old analogy. Try thinning progressively until you can get the colors a bit more translucent. Go super thin and you'll be doing what's called juicing and that takes uber patience because you can barely see the colors as you apply them. But getting nice blends with highlights and shadows means you don't have to depend on wash to shade your minis. Wash can be good, but layering will give you a lot more control.

    Contrast means taking those blends and pushing the highlights and shadows as far as you can. Not an easy thing to do, believe me I know. But, like most things, you just need to keep painting, keep practicing. It won't happen overnight but you'll get there.

    Keep up the great work!

  12. #12

  13. #13

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    Hi all..
    Thanks for the comments. Worked on the Champ's axe head a little. I don't think I'm doing the NMM right with it. I'm not sure if it's the angle that I'm using for the light source, or if it's the color choices that I have picked. Any suggestions would be appreciated.. Thanks
    Khonner

  14. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Khonner View Post
    don't think I'm doing the NMM right with it. I'm not sure if it's the angle that I'm using for the light source, or if it's the color choices that I have picked. Any suggestions would be appreciated..
    Ok please bare in mind that this is only a VERY ROUGH guide (5 min photoshop).
    Name:  Axenmm.jpg
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    This is a suggestion on how the shading of NMM would work on this axe if light is falling top right to bottom left.
    By no means is it the "be all and end all" of how the axe should look.
    Personally I'd be toning the shadow's areas with highly diluted browns to simulate earthy reflections. (*)
    Use the curves of the axe blade as a template for the transitiosn of colour.
    The NMM pallette I use is based on the one used by Theirry Husser who used to do a lot of the Rackham painting and uses Vallejo Model Colour Intermediate Blue as the starting point for Steel edged weapons. This is a slightly Blue'r colour midway between the old SpaceWolves grey and Shadow Grey.
    Hope this helps.

    (*Although someone has used the term "Juicing" its a clumsy way of describing the level of dilution needed. Probably coming from online translations, the closest term I can suggest is TINTING. Using many covering strokes of extreme diluted paint.)
    Last edited by Dragonsreach; 06-23-2013 at 05:55 AM.
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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonsreach View Post
    (*Although someone has used the term "Juicing" its a clumsy way of describing the level of dilution needed. Probably coming from online translations, the closest term I can suggest is TINTING. Using many covering strokes of extreme diluted paint.)
    Tinting is about right. And if you think of how water colors work that is kind of what you are doing.
    "Remember, you can't spell paint without a little pain."

    Blog: almostperftec.blogspot.ca
    Instagram: almost_zab
    DeviantArt Handle: AlmostZab
    Art Amino Handle: Almost Perftec Painting
    P&P: Neil Szabo

  16. #16

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    I appreciate the photoshopped guide.. It did help. Here's today's work.. I'm not sure if I need more blending, I darkened up the picture a few steps so that the highlights show better. Comments welcomed! Thanks.

    Khonner


  17. #17

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    It's tough to get to grips with NMM, Im only just working on some myself, but in my research I have found this. I think its pretty good in my mind I think the line work makes each face of the metal realy pop.

    All the best.

  18. #18

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    Great start with the blending, what's getting you is the lack of contrast. Even though Mike's example is rough, you can see how it goes from very dark in places to almost white in others. You also need to work in graduations - for example well use dots. The bottom is four dots wide . . . . then the next color on top of it which is slightly lighter, is three dots wide . . . and then next color, which is also lighter, is two dots wide, and so on. Make sense I hope?

  19. #19

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    Hi Kathryn,

    It does make sense.. If I use your dot example, I would do a very thin set of dots and then blend them with another wet brush, that prolly would get the transition that I'm looking for.. I think the trick will be since the paint is so thin, blending before it dries might prove to be challenging. I think I'm going to give the arms a dip in simple green tonight, I've noticed when I was messing around with it last night that the blade seemed very splochie, so I'm gonna wipe the canvas and give it another go. I will post up some update pics soon. Thanks!

    Khonner

  20. #20

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    Evening all.. I'm calling my Hero done. I have a lot of work ahead of me to improve the NMM, but I will keep at it. Take a peek and feel free to leave any comments. Thanks.

    Khonner


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