General RW Painting Thread
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Thread: General RW Painting Thread

  1. #1

    Default General RW Painting Thread

    I think it's a bit more convenient to have all our painted miniatures in one thread, don't you think guys? Makes it easier to hunt for inspiration...

    I'll start with my Ostrich (with its base still unfinished):


    (Click image for a bigger version)

  2. #2
    Last edited by Bubo; 01-22-2014 at 09:21 PM.

  3. #3

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    Fabulous Ostrich! I like his rusty backside. Looks like he's really been in the field.

    Please tell us how you did your rust effect.

    (And if I need to delete my post to keep it clean, just let me know.)
    Last edited by steamcrow; 01-22-2014 at 04:09 PM.
    Check out more Steam Crow art here!

  4. #4

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    @Bubo: Great idea to add all those links!

    @steamcrow: Regarding the rust it was rather simple. I used Citadel's new "Typhus Corrosion", which is a rather liquid wash-type paint that contains a texture of microparticles. It creates a grimey, oily look, so it's perfect for machine parts. The I drybrushed Citadel's "Ryza Rust" on top of some of those corroded parts, to make the orange rust areas. But I guess you can use any orange/brown paint for that. Sometimes the texture of "Typhus Corrosion" is problematic though, as you can see that some of the particles show up too prominently when you drybrush them with a metallic paint. I'll have to try to scrub those away.

  5. #5

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    really great result btw, love the effect the tiny particles give, especially with the rust tones dry brushed on top. really looks like it's seen some use.

    for a home-brew, try using ground graphite, charcoal, or rust (yes, rust! you can make your own, or go scavenging. easy method is to wash some 0000 steel wool with an alcohol several times, to remove the oil. then submerge in a bucket of water. allow to evaporate & repeat until all you have are rust particles, then grind 'em up). mix them into your paint, or into a clear basecoat (like acrylic medium) or glue wash (white glue, thinned with water), and apply with a brush.

    i often make a wash with 1:1 water & isopropyl alcohol, then add a little paint & the above particulates (graphite, charcoal, rust), or dry pigments, etc.

  6. #6

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    added Messiah's painted minis to the link list. would be nice if you guys linked here could add to this thread, encourage putting everyone's work in one place as well as in your own threads.

  7. #7

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    Thanks guys! Great that you have tried to consolidate these sites for us. Really appreciate this. I want to paint mine but kinda don't want to take them off the base and not sure the best way to do so, even after reading the thread about removing them.

  8. #8
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    I didn't remove mine at all. They're really easy to work around on the bases

  9. #9

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    As I've always said, when it comes to painting tabletop minis, if my brush can't reach it, you can't see it. If you're detail-painting the bottom of your Sturmpanzer, you're doing it wrong....

  10. #10

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    A general question;
    Maybe it is more taste than modelling, but anyway.

    I remember doing my 40k Nids back in the days, and I made a winter theme on the bases. The pure white snow made quite a contrast to the models (red Kraken army).
    Sorry for the totally off topic picture, I just wanted to show what I meant...

    In this case I was thinging muddy snow and some pure white.
    But since the tiles are totally snow free, it might look odd on the board. What do you think?
    Last edited by a94marbo; 01-23-2014 at 03:51 AM.

  11. #11

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    Main reason I'm taking mine off the bases is I'm going to be basing up with fake mud, weathering powders and water effects, and it's going to be easier to do the styling/shaping of it without having the mini in the way and getting it all over the mini's feet/tracks. I plan to do that intentionally afterwards with weathering! Plus, it means I can pick how much the feet are sunk into the mud. For more conventional basing, it's not really necessary.

    Have to say, I love the ostrich though. Going to be trying to get the same effect(ish) with modelmates rust effect and weathering powders, hope mine turns out half as nice! One tip I've seen is to rub a little graphite (from a pencil lead) on the work edges of moving parts, such as the back-of-the-ankle track and the main hip wheel where the metal would be kept shiny.
    Last edited by arkhanist; 01-23-2014 at 04:32 AM.

  12. #12

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    A couple of years ago I made a few "tutorial"-images for my "Memoir '44" minis, and I think one of them might actually apply to the Rivet Wars infantry as well:


  13. #13

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    Hey, that's pretty cool. Thanks for sharing! And just FYI, Devlan Mud and Badab Black washes aren't available anymore. Thankfully, Army Painter makes Strong Tone and Dark Tone inks that are pretty much the exact same formula. You can find them in the CMoN store.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tauwolf View Post
    Thankfully, Army Painter makes Strong Tone and Dark Tone inks that are pretty much the exact same formula.
    You're absolutely right. As I said, that image is a couple of years old already

  15. #15

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    I've found that I need no primer for these minis, and that Tamiya's Dark Green and German Grey spray paints come onto the mini's extremely well as if they were primered. I noticed with this type of plastic (with Dust stuff too) I don't really need it as long as you prevent chipping via clear coat, whether glossy or matte. Same with my 40K stuff years ago. Metal minis? Yeah, needed it. Detail Resin? Yeah, needed it. Plastic? Ehh..not so much.

    Just a hint out there for my fellow painters.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by knatebaker View Post
    I've found that I need no primer for these minis, and that Tamiya's Dark Green and German Grey spray paints come onto the mini's extremely well as if they were primered. I noticed with this type of plastic (with Dust stuff too) I don't really need it as long as you prevent chipping via clear coat, whether glossy or matte. Same with my 40K stuff years ago. Metal minis? Yeah, needed it. Detail Resin? Yeah, needed it. Plastic? Ehh..not so much.

    Just a hint out there for my fellow painters.
    That's because the Tamiya sprays are lacquers, so on plastics would be enough to adhere without a layer of primer. Other non-lacquer based sprays might not provide enough adherence to get away with no primer/undercoat

  17. #17

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    By George, I've been painting with Tamiya and Vallejo for years, and had no clue. I always wondered why Citadel was unable to replicate it and would get bubbly. Thank God for lacquer.

    But seriously, Tamiya's sprays are soooo smooth compared to Citadel stuff I used to use. Even in my cold (in old cold MN...its currently -38 with windchill, woohoo polar vortex) basement. I've never used their pots, but recently got 4 or so pots since my flgs had a B2G2. Saw the copper and rust colors and envisioned two things: The gears and bindings and rivets on Rivet Wars, and a wierd rusty metallic paint scheme for the Tau...

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by knatebaker View Post
    By George, I've been painting with Tamiya and Vallejo for years, and had no clue. I always wondered why Citadel was unable to replicate it and would get bubbly. Thank God for lacquer.

    But seriously, Tamiya's sprays are soooo smooth compared to Citadel stuff I used to use. Even in my cold (in old cold MN...its currently -38 with windchill, woohoo polar vortex) basement. I've never used their pots, but recently got 4 or so pots since my flgs had a B2G2. Saw the copper and rust colors and envisioned two things: The gears and bindings and rivets on Rivet Wars, and a wierd rusty metallic paint scheme for the Tau...
    Never tried the Tamiya sprays, but agree with you that the Citadel white is a nightmare. Living in the UK we're not faced with sub arctic temperatures (think we've only dipped below zero a couple of times this month), so the Citadel black does give a reasonable finish. That said I quite like Halford grey automotive primer and Vallejo surface primer through an airbrush. Worth knowing that the Tamiya sprays are good though, means I know where to go if I need to

  19. #19

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    call me old fashioned, but i've been using testors enamels with lacquer thinner & an airbrush for years. in most cases a primer isn't even necessary as long as the parts are clean (free of oils/mold release), and the paint is amazingly sturdy. only down side is it's toxic as all get out while spraying, kiddies use a spray mask!

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by RuneBrush View Post
    Never tried the Tamiya sprays, but agree with you that the Citadel white is a nightmare. Living in the UK we're not faced with sub arctic temperatures (think we've only dipped below zero a couple of times this month), so the Citadel black does give a reasonable finish. That said I quite like Halford grey automotive primer and Vallejo surface primer through an airbrush. Worth knowing that the Tamiya sprays are good though, means I know where to go if I need to

    And by years, I only mean 6, but yes, Tamiya sprays as base coats on my plastic minis have been more than satisfactory, and have found nothing smoother or better, and they have such a good range of colors in their sprays, it's just convenient. At my small FLGS alone they have at least 30 different small spray cans, and at a good price. I used to use a Forest Green they had for a dark green base coat, but the Dark Green they have looks suberb on these Allies if you are going for the darker weathered green for the uniforms. They'll be fun to highlight, and then I'll throw them up here!

    Bubo! I used to always use Testors until I found Vallejo...Vallejo has some of my favorite range of greys, blues, metals, and greens, that I just can't help it. But Testors were my practicing beginnings of painting with my 40K Blood Angels..

    Speaking of metals, the rusty copper Tamiya has in small pots looks wonderful on these metal pieces and rivet surfaces. I'm going to get my photos together soon here. Also, if you get the spray can of the metalic iron, and spray froma far distance so the particles are pretty far apart, put that over the base coat before the highlights and detailing, and it gives the tanks or Wolverine an insta-weathered/dented/knicked look like bullet holes and the such. I'll have that up soon as well.

    Sorry I'm so excited. Haven't had this much fun testing paint technique and color schemes since I used to practice highlighting on the old Mage Knight minis game...the paint jobs on those were terrible.
    Last edited by knatebaker; 01-28-2014 at 01:45 PM.

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