Yet another painting thread
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Thread: Yet another painting thread

  1. #1

    Smile Yet another painting thread

    Ok, so I had a day to start working on painting. I decided to focus just on the figures that I will not have duplicates of coming in April (for consistency). Here they are so far. I had planned on using the minwax dipping method, but I've never tried it.
    1) What will these look like after being dipped?
    2) Should I dip/shake or paint/dab the woodstain?


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  2. #2
    Brushlicker Bloodhowl's Avatar
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    Lovely video on this method here:

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  3. #3


    nice lookin rivets there binary!
    i need to find the time to paint mine...

  4. #4


    I have used both minwax and the army painter shade. I do not think dipping is the best for several reasons. One, you really have to shake hard and you need an area that will contain the splatter. Two, you have no control over how much goes on or off. Three, it can leave a kind of dull look to some of your colors. Four with all the rounded surfaces on RW figures you may waste a lot of shading. Five, given the "cuts" in RW minis inks and washes may actually work better. Six, shaking hard can hurt your shoulder! and elbow!

    Having said that if you want to use miniwax I suggest using a small cheap throw away brush. Control the application more and brush off what you don't want. I use those small brush packs by Testors.

  5. #5


    Hopefully tomorrow I am going to start yet another painting thread as others have encouraged me to post them. I'll start with just one: Rommler.

  6. #6


    Great work! They look really fun. Would love to see a Erwin close up, the ghostly skin colour looks just like Ted's art work!
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  7. #7


    Just because it's called a dip, there is no need to do so, I've used a couple of tins now and applied with a brush just as you would with a wash as you have more control and less waste. The Dark Tone would work well with the greens and browns and the leave a high gloss finish, so you may want to apply a matt or semi-gloss varnish after. you can also buy these colours as a wash in small dropper bottles if you wanted to try the colours out.

  8. #8


    Good tip about the dropper bottles. I have never seen those.

  9. #9


    How do the metallic colors look after being wood stained? Do they still look iridescent?
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  10. #10


    Looking good I'd also agree about using the dropper bottle "inks" they're a 100% match for the dip tins but acrylic based and come out matte rather than gloss. Using a brush also means you can use a different wash colour for each bit. Metals can be done black, or black with a hint of blue (for that steely look), clothing can be done a light brown, etc.

  11. #11


    Quote Originally Posted by binarysunrise View Post
    How do the metallic colors look after being wood stained? Do they still look iridescent?
    Had to Google that To be honest I've never even noticed metal paint doing that anyway, it's just a metal colour paint to me and the mini's always get varnished, which is what dips do as well as staining. Of course if you brush on, you don't have to go over any metal.

  12. #12


    Looking good. Glad you posted these. It's great to see everyone sharing their work and their process. It'll be neat to see how these progress and what you learn.

    Can you mask parts of the mini before you dip it? I've never used it but I've seen those paint on masks that you can later rub off to reveal the masked area.

  13. #13


    There is a liquid mask that you can get at any hobby store that works great. It blocks both spray paints, paints and dips. I use it on my Zombiecide zombie bases so I can paint them and still see what type (regular, toxic, berserker) of zombie it is. When you are all done painting it just peels off. You need to use a throw away brush with it though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Terranova View Post
    Looking good. Glad you posted these. It's great to see everyone sharing their work and their process. It'll be neat to see how these progress and what you learn.

    Can you mask parts of the mini before you dip it? I've never used it but I've seen those paint on masks that you can later rub off to reveal the masked area.

  14. #14


    Ok, after looking through the linked youtube video, dipping is just ridiculous. Soooo much extra stain to get rid of. So I grabbed one of my kids' paint brushes, and painted on the stain. Before:
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    I then painted the whole figure, and then spent the next 8 minutes dabbing it off with the paintbrush, and wiping the brush on the paper towels. Then I let it sit while I painted the next figure. After that figure was done, I went back to the first, and dabbed off some more.
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    And here they are. A tiny bit tacky, so I'll let it dry over night. I just flipped the tokens and did the other side. Those weren't tacky, but I'm not using the blue sticky to hold it to the soda cap, in case it pulls off almost-dry polystain.
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    Don't think masking was needed (though a brighter room for photographing would have helped...sorry). Next question is whether I should hit it with a flat clearcoat to reduce the gloss. I had problems with a few of my mice & mystics figures crazing (perhaps the paint wasn't fully cured?), so I'm a bit hesitant. And I wonder if I should leave the tokens glossy, as they look sort of cool.
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  15. #15


    I would suggest 24 hours rather than overnight. Also do not try a hair drier to speed it up. I would suggest dull coat then an over night drying time. Then you ate done.

  16. #16


    Wow, that stuff did make a big difference And yes, leave at least 24hrs, matte varnish is a big enough headache to use as it is. I used gloss varnish to finish mine and think they look good without dulling it down.

  17. #17


    Ok, got my guys out again and decided to base paint the remainder. I'm waiting until April to paint more, so similar figures will have a better chance of looking similar. But I realized I might as well base paint what I have.

    Thought I'd share my tools:
    1) Blue poster tack - make a ball of it, stick it under the figure, and put the figure on a box to paint. This way they won't get glued to the surface, as the painted edges will be in the air slightly.
    2) Basepaint Spray - I use Krylon Fusion for Plastic Satin (Fern for Allies, Pewter Gray for Blight, and I think I'm doing White for Heroes - it might make them brighter, but regardless, it's what I had on hand when I painted the previous 4 heroes - not sure if I'll regret it later)
    3) Paint - I use the cheap stuff from Michaels - FolkArt brand
    4) Brushes - what ever is cheap and has a tiny brush on the end
    5) Paint-on Dip - Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut Satin

    I haven't decided if I am going to spray them with a Matte finish yet (I'm getting used to them a bit shiny), but if I did, I'd use
    6) Matte Spray - FolkArt Clearcote Acrylic sealer matte finish
    Last edited by binarysunrise; 03-22-2014 at 05:16 PM.
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  18. #18


    Base-painting - After spray painting the tops:
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    And right before spray-painting the bottoms (I wait 20-minutes, or so, and then re-stick-tack them upside down to hit the hard to reach spots, like under the hat rims):
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  19. #19


    And here are the close-ups of my 4 finished heroes, after I varnished them. Still debating whether to hit them with a matte spray or not.
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    Last edited by binarysunrise; 03-22-2014 at 07:36 PM.
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  20. #20


    Totally awesome, great to see work in progress. Close up shots are great too.

    Man, the allies training regime is tough! Standing on your head is one thing.
    In full kit another... but with a rocket bike in between your legs... theyre serious
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