Daniel San's WIP and experiments with techniques. - Page 4
Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 61 to 80 of 99

Thread: Daniel San's WIP and experiments with techniques.

  1. #61

    Default

    Thanks Dex, more soon and I will get around to replying in a lot of other peoples wips tonight. So much great work around here inspiring me.

  2. #62

    Default

    Well that was a massive unforgiving photo. Here's a better kinder smaller one with the base finalized. I wanted there to be snow on the ice rocks for realism I guess. And some more reflections added to his blue Armour. I'm 80-85% happy with the mini, Some improvements to the face, battle damage and then I'll submit him.

    Name:  photom.jpeg
Views: 171
Size:  56.4 KB


    Dan.

  3. #63

    Default

    Nice, well played response to a near disaster.
    You actually got me thinking - it used to be easy to remove a metal model from its base since the metal was stronger than the plastic, but much tougher with resin or plastic. I think you've done a good job with the snow. It's nice and crisp and white. I've only tried snow bases a couple of times and it's turned out looking more slushy. Only critique I'd give would be to stop the snow further down on the large rock in front. Wind and melt would probably not leave anything more than about half way up the stone - but overall nice work and congrats on being near the end.

  4. #64

    Default

    Thankyou Khavor! I love the feedback!

  5. #65

    Default

    Nice save on the base it looks great! The problem you had (not giving enough of a cracked look) could have been you painted it too soon after using the texture paint so it didn't "crackle" or you may just have a bad bottle. Try putting some on a piece of cardboard or scrap material and let it dry overnight or two and see if it works. If not, maybe it was applied too thick or too thin. I also stir it up in the pot to remix everything as you can get some of the base separating.

  6. #66

    Default

    Godddd I'm so frustrated guys. I feel I'm falling at the last hurdle with this mini. I have to fix his cream/ivory inner cloak and I have no idea how to do it or shade it properly please help me. Other than that I just need to tighten a few more edges, clean up some red from the base that spilled, apply more snow to fix it a bit and add some more battle damage. But for the love of GOD help me with this ivory cloak.

    Heres some new pics using my wifes newer phone than mine.

    Name:  frontnew.jpg
Views: 152
Size:  130.2 KBName:  backsidenew.jpg
Views: 153
Size:  122.3 KBName:  sidenew.jpg
Views: 155
Size:  164.4 KBName:  back.jpg
Views: 151
Size:  104.7 KB

    Also my reaper wizard came the bones one. So i'll be back soon with base coats pics of him.

    Dan.

  7. #67

    Default

    Hey CPT,

    I am by no means an expert painter. but something ive been playing alot with as of late is glazing.
    It looks like you started with a ivory or light tan and went straight to white. Glazing is just you watering down one of the paints you want to blend into another paint.
    in this case you could glaze the ivory/tan into the white by adding a small amount of the highly watered down ivory/tan into the top section down into the white.
    let it dry completely then add another watered down layer this time not going down and much as you did the first time. let dry completely. rinse and repeat until until you have the blend you are looking for.

    IT also works in the other direction by glazing in watered down white into the ivory/tan and following the same type of steps.

    Hope this helps. Because hes coming along awesome so far!

    Cheers!

    tee

  8. #68

    Default

    I would go with glazes too.
    I find it easier to exaggerate the highlights, then glaze back to the shadows by using darker glazes each time I reduce the area to glaze.

  9. #69

    Default

    I echo glazing too. And for future reference when you place highlights etc use very small increments-meaning if your using a
    basecokor for e smoke you might want to add very little in terms of the following g color used to highlight -going from a dark color right to a light color is e trenely tough to blend . Using small increment colors where as you slightly advance your highlights adding a bit of highlight color each time adding increasing but small amounts works best.

  10. #70

    Default

    Thanks guys all really great advice. I have used glazing on the blue armour a lot. I think what I guess I tried to do on the Cape was to wet blend It and failed miserably. I'll report back.

  11. #71

    Default

    In addition to glazing you could use multiple colour mixed to get a smooth transition. Starting with the light... getting darker and darker by adding piece by piece more dark color onto the mixture.
    I'm confident you'll find a way to work it out ;-)

  12. #72

    Default

    Thanks for the support all I've never known such a helpful bunch. I am working it out using thing layers and here's my wet pallet broken up into the tones. Name:  DSC_0263-01.jpeg
Views: 124
Size:  90.4 KB

    It's vallejo ivory mixed with various amounts of balor brown and then ivory going upto white to highlight.
    Last edited by CPTDanielSan; 05-30-2020 at 01:41 PM.

  13. #73

    Default

    looks like you are on the right track to fixing the inside of the cloak, but can I say damn, that red part of the cloak is looking amazing!

  14. #74

    Default

    Thanks eki thats so nice of you. Anyway hes "done" pics are as good as I can get. I'm happy with him for a first mini finished in years. Even if he floats around the 5-6 out of 10 mark. Cheers all for the input and onto the next one. http://www.coolminiornot.com/448473
    Name:  ultracap.jpg
Views: 108
Size:  712.6 KB

  15. #75

    Default

    Right we are people! Iv'e put paint to some new plastic. My Black Templar lieutenant is up and away, Heres a couple pics not a sbs but first with base coats on after a grey primer. Abaddon Black for the armour, 50-50 mephiston red/Black on the seal and vallejo ivory on the parchment. And for the base of the nmm gold its mournfang brown with black 50-50.
    Name:  btempbase.jpg
Views: 79
Size:  87.8 KB
    Then Iv'e washed the parchment and seal with black wash, squiggled on the parchment ( which I'm gonna re-do) and highlighted up through mephiston/wild rider/ivory in that order on the seal. And then tackled the chest eagle with all my steady hand can muster. I wanted to achieve a very rich gold let me know what you think ? I dont want it to look cartoony. The NMM is Mournfang/Black > Mournfang> Mournfang/Balor Brown> Balor> Averland sunset>Vallejo golden yellow>Ivory> and pure black in deepest recesses. I am fairly proud of the nmm. Practising nmm blue on the last guy was a valuable study. No further work on the armour yet but i'll be back with some scetched in highlights soon.
    Name:  btempgold.jpg
Views: 80
Size:  59.6 KB

    Dan.
    Last edited by CPTDanielSan; 06-03-2020 at 07:36 PM.

  16. #76

  17. #77

    Default

    Thanks man, started bashing some highlights on but its late and I'm tired might black them out and redo tomorrow. I might have had the shakes, not my straightest lines.

    Name:  hihlights.jpg
Views: 62
Size:  50.5 KB

    Dan.

  18. #78
    Freak! SaintToad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    2,522
    Blog Entries
    1
    Rep Power
    8

    Default

    Looking mighty fine.

  19. #79

  20. #80

    Default

    The photo is tiny, so it is a bit hard to see, but it looks fabulous!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Privacy Policy  |   Terms and Conditions  |   Contact Us  |   The Legion


Copyright © 2001-2018 CMON Inc.

-->