Have you used these paints?
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Thread: Have you used these paints?

  1. #1

    Default Have you used these paints?

    Have some questions on the performance of some VMC paints. If you can provide a pic of its use that is all the better, but appreciate your review on any of the following paints:

    1) Black Glaze
    2) White Glaze
    3) Any of the Green Gray range. That's 3 different paints all called Green Gray. A dark, medium, and light gray. But with a slight greenish tint of course.
    4) Light skin...I think that's what it was....

    Mainly the first three. Thanks appreciate your review!!! Pics of your works appreciated!!!!
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  2. #2

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    forget the first two. They are not good / not behaving as expected.
    The black is more or less usable, but nothing special, just black with mediums added to it. I'd rather stick with VAC-Black and thin that as needed.
    The white played a trick on me. I used it for the "Autnm Nostalgia" bust's hat (see in gallery). I expected that it will be a light, transparent glaze of white. But as it dried it turned more and more opaque.
    While it can be used for certain effects (thinking about similar things as purposefully low quality black and white in films), but if I've known how it behaves I would never have bought it.
    edit: black glaze also looses a bit of it's transparency as it dries, but for black that's usually not that big of a problem.

    3. they are ok, a bit similar to reaper's triad. Useful if you want to paint something that's grey, but not pure grey. (Then again, you could take a pure grey (cold-fortress) and add some desaturated green in it (camo green for example) to have a very similar effect.)
    4. no real idea, for me the VMC basic skintone is already too bright, light skin should have even more white in it, so I skipped this color. But I can imagine it being useful for really white fair skintones (where the basic skintone is really the base/even the shadow).

  3. #3

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    Great review Maxxx. I am primarily concerned with how glossy the black is. I have a good deal of experience with simply watering down a black and glazing it on with the expectation of it drying much more opaque than is initially apparent. So if I can use this forethought appropriately, perhaps I can judge how much to place and where to place it. Then again, were it this easy I am sure you wouldn't have warned of this problem. What a shame. Nonetheless, can you comment on its glossiness?

    As far as #3 goes, less unsettling news here. I think it should serve just fine for my purposes, which is to make certain NMM steels look aged and decaying. Plan to glaze an ugly green over parts of the shadow and midtone when it's set. Can never have too many variations of gray and brown I have found.

    As far as the skin tone, I can wholly agree with you on this. Even agree on the basic skin tone. I purchased it fully aware that I would desaturate it in order to make it palatable. Plan to use it on a fresh corpse's skin, think by it being bright and sunny it will exaggerate the feature of fresh flesh and serve to really contrast with the ripped off limbs and spilled guts. Yup.
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  4. #4

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    I like the white glaze. Firstly it is not really a glaze (at least as it comes out of the bottle). What I use it for is in place of white/off-white to lighten my colours for highlighting. Because of how it behaves, you can add quite a bit to a colour and it barely changes it, so it is great for layering techniques where you want a slow gradual change in the colour you are using.

  5. #5

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    I love the White Glaze and use it pretty frequently for different Painting Techniques (like painting Milky Eyes or to give polished Stone a nice Opaque Finish... this can also be seen in depth in our PBA 002 "Horus - Part 7: How to Paint Green Marble Effects" video, which is an Academy exclusive Video at http://www.paintingbuddha.com... See the White Marble Effect for free here, although the White Glaze is just used in the Green Marble... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrNJz...5R-bvGsus2oI8Q)...

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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
    What I use it for is in place of white/off-white to lighten my colours for highlighting. Because of how it behaves, you can add quite a bit to a colour and it barely changes it
    I stick with simple white. I need less to waste

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Cexwish View Post
    I love the White Glaze and use it pretty frequently for different Painting Techniques (like painting Milky Eyes or to give polished Stone a nice Opaque Finish... this can also be seen in depth in our PBA 002 "Horus - Part 7: How to Paint Green Marble Effects" video, which is an Academy exclusive Video at http://www.paintingbuddha.com...
    yep, like I wrote, good for some effects, but behaved too different to what was expected. Maybe that's why I was so disappointed with it.

    Ohh can you please tell me why are 2 parts of the video exclusive? As far as I remember, the whole started as free for all, but fullHD, pdfs, and speed (available sooner then youtubers) is what the membership was needed for.
    'Now' it suddenly became exclusive for members only. A bit like going back on the words as PB noticed there aren't enough paying members.

    And a question relating to the green marble: is the process similar to Ben's MiniatureMentor video on basing? (there he shows some green marble how-to)



    BoK: It's a bit satiny, but not much. Not as strong as satin varnish for example, but stronger shine as matt paints. A bit like P3 paints.
    Last edited by MAXXxxx; 10-23-2014 at 02:56 PM.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Cexwish View Post
    I love the White Glaze and use it pretty frequently for different Painting Techniques (like painting Milky Eyes or to give polished Stone a nice Opaque Finish... this can also be seen in depth in our PBA 002 "Horus - Part 7: How to Paint Green Marble Effects" video, which is an Academy exclusive Video at http://www.paintingbuddha.com... See the White Marble Effect for free here, although the White Glaze is just used in the Green Marble... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrNJz...5R-bvGsus2oI8Q)...

    Ah thank you for these resources. I had no idea about these videos and so I find them all as very cool assets to have. I will certainly be a frequent visitor and subscriber.

    Huuuuge fan of your dioramas man. I find them to be the artistic high point of miniature painting, and can only hope to learn from your modeling, painting, sculpting, and creative processes.

    Maxxx I have to say that I too am disappointed a bit since the white doesn't act like a glaze. But like many other "inks" or "washes" or "glazes" I am likely going to dilute them more on my own, where they sure as hell will start acting like a "glaze." Most whites won't do this when watered down because they chalk up when flooded. My hope is that this being called a glaze AND being made by VMC-who make the best whites anyway-chalkiness won't be a problem, which is really the only setback I could see keeping me from glazing with it.

    Second, I think you are coming on a little strong there to the folks at Painting Buddha. Notwithstanding that it is there content and they can do with it what they please, it's only polite to error on the side of good intentions and assume that they aren't trying to scam anyone. Maybe this was part if their business model all along? Maybe what you say is true, and in order to avoid sustaining a great loss of profit they are forced to make some content exclusive? Maybe this content was never intended to be free and so nobody is going back on their word, i.e. a misunderstanding on your behalf. Regardless, leveling accusations is in poor form
    ​You are ranked 1 out of 9149 artists.
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  8. #8

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    Hey BF,

    I used the black glaze as part of the flame effect on the Blood Thirster I painted. Its thinned transparency was just what I was after. Paint a few tounges of flame add a few layers of black glaze and then paint some more flames. The first lot look like they are behind the new lot giving a bit of a 3D effect (at least that was what I was after).


    The white glaze is also great once you have learned how to use it. The highlight on the blade on his shoulder pad was built up purely using very thin layers of white glaze in smaller and smaller areas.


    I haven't used the others that I recall.

  9. #9
    Superfreak!!! Dragonsreach's Avatar
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    I'm disagreeing with Maxxxxx because I've used both the White and Black Glazes quite happily.
    Tthe names should give you a clue as to the use and they are 'what they say on the tin'.
    White (use a clean brush) is great for smoothing out a highlight gradient, but as its a glaze use sparingly, ditto the Black which is more a very dark grey can enhance a shadowed are....just don't slap it on like a Basecoat.
    I believe in Karma, what you give, is what you get returned. Affirmation; Savage Garden
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonsreach View Post
    I'm disagreeing with Maxxxxx because I've used both the White and Black Glazes quite happily.....just don't slap it on like a Basecoat.
    hmm, somehow I've a feeling that you say I slapped it on as a basecoat... which isn't true.

    Quote Originally Posted by BloodFather of Kharnath View Post
    Maxxx I have to say that I too am disappointed a bit since the white doesn't act like a glaze. But like many other "inks" or "washes" or "glazes" I am likely going to dilute them more on my own, where they sure as hell will start acting like a "glaze." Most whites won't do this when watered down because they chalk up when flooded. My hope is that this being called a glaze AND being made by VMC-who make the best whites anyway-chalkiness won't be a problem, which is really the only setback I could see keeping me from glazing with it.
    It's not that much of chalkiness or anything. I expected it to behave more or less than a more thinned paint from the transparent line for example (basically like white ink), but as it dried it lost a lot of the transparency it had while wet.
    Probably I don't like it exactly for that, the end was too opaque for my expectations, that I can achive with simple white too.

    Quote Originally Posted by BloodFather of Kharnath View Post
    Second, I think you are coming on a little strong there to the folks at Painting Buddha. Notwithstanding that it is there content and they can do with it what they please, it's only polite to error on the side of good intentions and assume that they aren't trying to scam anyone. Maybe this was part if their business model all along? Maybe what you say is true, and in order to avoid sustaining a great loss of profit they are forced to make some content exclusive? Maybe this content was never intended to be free and so nobody is going back on their word, i.e. a misunderstanding on your behalf. Regardless, leveling accusations is in poor form
    I don't think they scam anyone. I've been a happy preorderer of their dvd-s and all. I just don't like changes like that without a reason/explanation.

    What probably bothers me most is that the 'lesson' is partly available now, it's not complete. I know I wouldn't be bothered at all if they had made the whole tutorial (from black armor to harmonising, or even more than 1 tutorials) member-only. That way I wouldn't feel a certain lesson incomplete.

  11. #11

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    Thanks fellas. Stew show me exactly what I need. Looks like both the white and the black worked very effectively. The spikey bits on his shoulder pad are looking like what I am after with the white.

    DR thanks brother just what I needed. This kind of segways into what Max says as well. It sounds like you have to apply minimalist amounts or it will go on too opaque. I sometimes use straight diluted abbadon black to achieve shades for my NMM gold, it is always surprises me how opaque it gets once it dries. I guess the lesson is apply with caution. Wait longer between drying times for your layers. Less is more.
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  12. #12

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    A bit more description might help mate.

    Both the Black and white glaze come out of the bottle quite thick. Almost gel like. I add water and sometimes a bit of medium to thin. This makes them look quite transparent. The white is still white but the black becomes a very dark grey. In both cases when I used them I thinned them to coloured water type consistency 10 - 20 parts thinner (water+medium or straight water) to one part Glaze. Then I slowly built up layers. The white took a little more vigilance than the black because as Maxx noted it dries pretty opaque. This made it really easy to go that one layer too many. OTOH it means that the areas I really wanted to be bright white didn't need another white to boost them.

    Its likely the black does the same. I don't know as I only used 3-5 layers and was looking for slight colour changes in my flames to inidicate it was time to go back to painting a new layer of them. Also the black glaze on the axe was in the darker areas and the outer layers of the flames. In closer I switched to Transparent red, orange and yellow.

  13. #13
    Superfreak!!! Dragonsreach's Avatar
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    MAXXxxxx, sorry I didn't mean to imply or infer anything by my comment which could be taken as a negative or dismissive view of your painting.
    If I have given you that impression then I apologise without reservation for my clumsy manner of writing.

    My intent was to state that the White & Black glazes come out of the bottle rather thick and therefore need to be used diluted, as an advisory to anyone who had not used or heard of them before.

    I believe in Karma, what you give, is what you get returned. Affirmation; Savage Garden
    Oh look my IQ results came in:-
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  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by MAXXxxx View Post

    Ohh can you please tell me why are 2 parts of the video exclusive? As far as I remember, the whole started as free for all, but fullHD, pdfs, and speed (available sooner then youtubers) is what the membership was needed for.
    'Now' it suddenly became exclusive for members only. A bit like going back on the words as PB noticed there aren't enough paying members.

    And a question relating to the green marble: is the process similar to Ben's MiniatureMentor video on basing? (there he shows some green marble how-to)
    Yes, I can tell you why 2 parts of the video are (and some more to come, also every video that exceed the promised 42 Free videos will be) exclusive...

    How much do you estimate is the average cost of one Complete Painting Buddha Academy Video? Bear in mind that there are 3 people working on the videos, more or less full time (1 x Painter, 1 x Commentary / Operating the Tech, 1x to Edit, Create the Overlays, Layouts, Texts...) while a 4th is Implementing the Videos with the Webpage, the Forums, Youtube Upload, Vimeo Upload, taking care of the Customers, answering eMails, etc. etc ... Filming a complete Part (3, sometimes 8 Parts) roughly costs around between 1800 - 3000 EURO... If you now calculate this with the amount of subscribers that we currently have, you will easily come to the conclusion that the Community College is merely an advertising Vehicle... We lose money on that...

    The PDF´s were initially planned to be exclusive, but we chose to make them Free for everyone after the first one was released and we saw how amazingly ISSUU displays the content (so yes, we changed what we said before, but absolutely to the benefit of the Painting Community)... Read more about this here... http://www.paintingbuddha.com/blogs/...-issuu-for-you ... The PDF`s are really a LOT of work and we are currently working hard to release the next one´s as soon as possible... They are also costing us a small fortune (around 400 - 600 EURO per Episode without any direct return)...

    Also, the Painting Budda Community College acutally is viewable in HD, 720p that is... The Higher 1080p Resolution is for people who REALLY want to see the dust on the Miniature or how pretty our Eyebrows look, but the Quality we offer (again, completely free) is equal to what you get if you buy a DVD... ...

    So we need to have some kind of exclusive content to allow us pay the bills and the working hours of everyone who is employed... It is our main job at the moment...

    Also, the Lesson should not be seen as incomplete as the Community College Content is what you basically need to paint the Miniature (together with content from other Community College Videos once they are all shot and released, that is...)... We have to ask you patience and please, don´t see any bad will in our decisions... As we are constantly learning ourselves it is difficult to get things right on the first go...

    So, of course we do not want people to be bummed off when we mark some of the content as exclusive, but we would like Painters to see it rather as a great opportunity than a service that is self-evident...

    In addition, the Parts that are Painting Buddha Academy Exclusives are including some highly specialized painting techniques, but rather a nice addition to existing techniques... A good example is the Marble Part for the Horus Base: We show how to paint two different types of Marble: White (also available for free in the Painting Buddha Community College) and Green (a Painting Buddha Academy Exclusive), but the Technique is very similar... As a matter of fact, only the use of the White Glaze really differs from what we show in the Free White Marble part, but it is something that you can logically conclude while watching the Basics in the White Marble part...

    To answer if the displayed technique is similar to Ben´s way of How to paint marble, I have to say rather not, since it is me who paints the Part... Our Painting Styles might be similar from times, but we still have many things that we paint differently... Ben´s way to paint Marble is more straight forward and basic...

    Many of Painting Buddha´s Projects depend solely on the support of the painting community... This is also why the "Enrollment fee" has 3 different stages... It should adapt to what people can and want to contribute... The Multi Pass, for example, offers some (highly exclusive) Gimmicks and Features that should rather be seen as a "Very Special Than You! " then an Elite kind of package... You can just become as good of a painter if you watch the free Community College Videos...

    The reason behind this is that we simply will never be able to cover the costs if we release all the videos for free... The Painting Buddha Community College is a Free Service from us to the Painting Community, nothing more, nothing less... The alternative would sadly have to be to not release any videos any more, simply because we´d go bankrupt... Hope this is understandable and that no one thinks we are getting filthy rich or scam someone into something... ...

    @ BloodFather of Kharnath

    Ah, many thanks for your kind words... ... It is a pleasure being able to record some of my painting so I can finally share the Techniques I have adapted and developed after the time... Also, giving an insight on the way I develop and work on my Projects is a great honour... There will hopefully be some Bigger Projects also in the future (like the next Base Alchemy: Water Videos or maybe a Big Diorama Project) where I can fully cover the Design Process of something Special...

    One great way how to use the White Glaze is to see it as something that can give you a 3D kind of addition Highlight Layer, that lies above the Layers you have painted before... Much like wat you can see if you look at Marble or a Candle (you can also look into Sub Surface Scattering (SSS) from Rendering Techniques to get a glimpse in what might be possible if you apply enough Layers...^-^...)...

    @ Stewsayer

    Another thing I want to add is that the Dillution is key, but it is not neccesarily helpful to give fixed amounts for the dillution as one can never be sure about the dillution in the pots... The Colour might be old and therefore thicker, so it is better to practice and experiment until one finds the perfect consistency... Practice is everything!
    Last edited by Matt Cexwish; 10-26-2014 at 02:58 PM.
    "I think we will see a lot of such diorams in the future because Pandora box is oped, interest is huge and forum butthurt is just great." --- Decoy

    Simply Wonderful......

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  15. #15

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    Matt cewiisch wow . First off I'm a big fan of your work. Second of all comment like MAXXX is very poor form. I think your taking things personal Maxx and that's something you need to deal with on your own time and not the forums. No one is on here attacking anybody and for you to take it that way well maybe you just need a hug. But DR your writing was perfect its wasn't clumsy and any one in their "right mind " wouldn't and shouldn't take it any other way.am I implying that someone is not of sound mind no. What I am saying is keep your personal attacks at the door. The forums are not for that garbage. Matt your an ace in my book. Papa DR you as well. No reason for people to throw dirt at such nice accomplished artists as prolific as DR and Matt cewiisch .. You both are golden. Much more than I can say for some :/

  16. #16

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    Hehehehe!!!!!
    ​You are ranked 1 out of 9149 artists.
    BloodFather's Axis of Chaos http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/...f-Chaos/page17

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