Ork WIP - Page 2
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Thread: Ork WIP

  1. #21

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    Hey Blood, firstly the mini would of never made it to this without your help. I would love to come and watch you paint for a day, learn from people who are masters of the craft. I've created my own highlight using bonewhite, tiny bit beasty brown and a tiny bit of moon yellow, I don't even know what the ratios are I just mixed it until it looked right. Here is the progress. Although I think I will need to go back and smooth out the highlights, i think there a bit rough around the edges, but when I look at the mini from the first post on this wip, what a transformation. the original skin looked so incomplete and flat.

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    Last edited by EpicMiniArt; 01-27-2015 at 10:46 PM.

  2. #22

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    cell ent excellent work...what a difference looks exactly like 1 of mine bud....you've done an amazing g job...now do you feel up for some weathering.lol weathered armor is the shiznits.

  3. #23

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    You gotta be feeling good when you look at this model i was just looking at it again what a diff.welldone job.

  4. #24

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    I am well chuffed, its a massive improvement, and even though using 3 colors and 9 layers of thing selective shading seemed like a lot, it wasn't really much work at all but the difference it made to the model is crazy, but you only really notice the difference when you back to look at the original. At first I was thinking that's a lot of work for a subtle improvement but its worth it because it gives the model that extra edge, but looking back though the work in progress pics the difference is huge. I've never really kept a work log until not and it really makes you understand why you what colors where, etc.

  5. #25

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    yes sir Davey I keep a log although most colors are on the fly as I've stated at the end if I like something it gets written down.in turn this starts to get written down ND in turn from that a style starts to form .ex if you like this green for example you do write it down and you should cause it's a very nice green from here you'd probable use this green for anything that's colored green and after awhile people and yourself will start seeing that green anytime there is a green colored project so then you'll master a red ,a brown ex and write those down hence a style starts to form where folks will see these colors you created time and time again folks will start to notice and say hey that green hydra is by Dave from epicminis.again this all becomes trademark stylised colors. You see!?

  6. #26

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    I'm getting it lol, so rather that follow the interwebz you create your own pallet and mix your own colours, keep a note of what your your using and develop a color style that ppl can associate you with, but with mixing your colors on the fly every model you paint looks slightly different, unique, although it follows the same style.

  7. #27

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    hat my friend is exactly what I'm saying.your very good with your words and use of description and style of writing.and your also good at this mini painting thing.it's sad but sometimes there are some people that just do not get it.you seem to get it pretty gosh darn thoroughly though.guys like you are a pleasure to pass on info to because as I stated you get it and you listen and apply.I can relate that sometimes taking on advice is cumbersome and it's normal to feel well I'm not doing that and also normal to feel I'm doing close to this or that but I like how I'm doing it.again though there's so much to learn and way beyond picking base cars and putting paint on a model there is a methodical thought process :Betty Edwards drawing with the right brain.once you start to learn the Def and the thought process it's only then do we say to ourselves ..wow what a difference.and you've displayed that here in this w I p.anybody else will give you their versions but you politely tell em thanks but I'm following bam.
    Last edited by BloodASmedium; 01-28-2015 at 02:02 PM.

  8. #28

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    lol, Yes Sir!

    I've added a couple of glazes of a very thing crimson which I had to make my own shade. It's very subtle but it def warms the model up and makes it more pleasing.


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    Regards

    David

  9. #29

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    Skin is done matw.if you want you could pick out the face with thinned highlights resilient if you will but let me be clear the model doesn't need this step it's optional.you've done an amazing job m8...proud of ya!!! Well done this is a landmark achievement and a turning point model cause it's not only well painted but you've learned a bu check with this guy...great model btw and you've gave it a fitting paintjob.
    Lemme know if you want to try my weathered metal recipe. Gr8 job again Lil bud .

  10. #30

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    Hit me with it
    Regards

    David

  11. #31

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    Okay so first I'm going to tell you the paints we would need to pull this effect off as followed

    boltgun metal or chain mail bbasecoat
    scorched bbrown
    Bestial bbrown
    vermin brown
    pigment powders from forge world or I use M I G light and dark rrust lemme know if you don't have the pigment powders we won't include that extra step.
    Lemme know if you have these?

  12. #32

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    Funny you should mention Forgeworld powders but they wont be here for a few days. I do have some powders in my collection though, Burnt Umber, Natural iron Oxide, and Natural Siena.

    As far as paints go I have
    Gun Metal
    Dark Flesh Tone, which has more red undertones in it than scourged brown, but I could pick up Scorched brown tomorrow.
    Beasty Brown, same as Bestial Brown
    Parasite Brown, same as vermin brown
    Regards

    David

  13. #33

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    a here's what were gonna do your gonna take a breather and when you get the scorched brown were gonna go full throttle as I let you in on a technique I'm known for none other than weathered rusted orktastik metals....I'm so curious of the score this model will get whence Finished.I'm pulling out all the stops if you want you could base coat the metals by applying the bolt gun medal.do that and go no further until you get the scorched brown.I'm gonna have it come out exactly how I'm envisioning it.boy I'm getting excited for ya...

  14. #34

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    Wow, really nice progress and a great transformation on the skin! Keep up the good work, can't wait to see it finished!

  15. #35

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    Thanks quiarcus, I'm very pleased with how he is turning out, still got a fair to go though
    Regards

    David

  16. #36

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    Base coat the model in bolt gun
    after that take a thinned wash of rhino hide and lay this into the recesses follow this b a wash of agrax earth's hade and a Lil black mixed in wash the entire metal parts.then lay again bestiary brown into the recess and on random parts of the metal
    Then lay vermin brown into the recesses and on the same random pieces that the best Ian brown was left.
    Now after all this "edge highlight" just the edges with mikhail silver..make sure you take time and really get these straight and sharp I use the side of the brush body and not the point.
    After this put random patches of ochre which you have on random small patches on the armor
    next add very thin tight scratches on random part of mikhail silver
    Glaze a wash of very watered down agrax earth's hade
    VIOLA DONE.
    Last edited by BloodASmedium; 01-29-2015 at 03:00 PM.

  17. #37

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    I think blood coaches you to the good direction. I have only one thing, always drill barels and exhaust. GL.

  18. #38

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    Nice catch persifal I didn't even catch that.....yes right as rain if you have a drill bit first tare a very sharp Xacto blade be extremely careful and pick out a small hole by twisting it's point in the center of the Barrel this will help when you use the drill bit it will leave a center positioning to drill it out .nothing more annoying then drilling out a whole that's not centered I've done it many times so be careful .

  19. #39
    I paint my thumb. GreenOne's Avatar
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    I'll pitch in amidst BAM tutelage, skinwork is a great upgrade with all the added nuances. The tip now, be mindfull when you do washes, it's easy to mark this as an easy step if you are from a tabletop background but really for a display quality piece you need to be very careful, thin them more, never let the pool, especially if you use inks or washes formula, that are very strong, they stain, tide mark, and get glossy a lot. It okay if you wash at the early steps because it's easy to clean up along the way but if you do it later you gotta be careful that the recess come out stronger than the HL, as it does a bit here. ( I explain this in a jumble I hope this is understandable.)
    Still great progresses
    CMON painter born and raised, soft seven and proud
    Gblaw studio online
    My latest, thanks for watching

  20. #40

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    Very good call to green one..fact is guys there is a what I call tidying up .so tide marks uneven paint splatter etc.the truth is no matter how careful and always should try to minimize this as greens right it will be lessened but your always gonna have a back and forth flow of damn I just did that part and have to go over it again..I know when I paint I do 3 diff times of tidying up but way before you take a photo and no matter how careful it's a thing that will always need to be addressed as long as you know you can do it and need to give the final model a good walk through its just part of the painting package..what I use is either reaper flow improve and or GW LAHMIAN medium when I use wash thin paints it should be painted on and in washing is not that epic we paint in our glazes understanding the diff should help minimize these tide marks and again if you get em chalk it up to "tidying up". Have you made any more leeway..?

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