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  1. #201

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    Your shading work is looking good - placement and blending have improved so much since your first little guy you posted. Be proud of yourself!

    My two cents worth of advice for darkening/deepening the shadows would be to try a burgundy or red brown. That way you have the warmer red tones and don't need to go for black. Also there is nothing wrong with going back-and-forth as you add colour and see what effect it has.

    Keep the faith - you're making excellent progress.

    P.S. I'm jealous of your new paints. I have most of the GW range and I'm pretty happy with them. But it would be nice to supplement with some other colours and brands. They're just not available in this country so I'd have to order them in and the price just makes me hesitate.
    Last edited by ArchArad; 12-14-2015 at 07:20 PM.
    Painting is easy when you don't know how, but very difficult when you do. ~ Edgar Degas

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  2. #202

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    warcolors out of Cypres could help you out. They have decent prices and shipping and many many many pretty colors I loved them. i was a beta tester.
    "Remember, you can't spell paint without a little pain."

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  3. #203
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    Thanks, guys. Dazzler, that was very helpful. The color changing-within-midtone range is what I was getting, and still am to a degree. I'm still not sure exactly how to make a given color just straight up darker. Adding complements doesn't seem to be working, it's just washing them out and turning them brown or grey. That can be useful (I actually do want the shadows to be washed out), but it isn't making the shadows really dark. Perhaps I'm not adding an accurate complement. I'm still not sure, for instance, whether I should add a complement to the underlying base (green>>>red) or a complement to the color I'm using for the shadows themselves (blue>>>orange), nor whether I should add darks for darkening or bright/pure complements... I'm trying to stay positive and look forward to mastering these arcane arts!
    ArchArad, thanks for the encouragement! I'm sure you know how much it helps when we inevitably get frustrated. The one drawback to keeping an eye on so many great painters' work is that it's easy to become impatient for the level of casual excellence you see on so many WIPs and other places. You're absolutely right to point out that I've improved a lot, and I hope I continue to do so! I have a few new shots for you. I did glaze in burgundy (actually called Burgundy Wine, which I stole straight off of Bailey's pirate dwarf... somehow my thing doesn't look quite the same...), which looked ok, but then I went back in and tried to get those damn shadows darker again! I think I'll glaze in some burgundy again, at least in some places. I also moved the green mid to a much brighter green. I'm not sure if I like it, but I wanted to give it a try.
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    Whether I keep the brighter green or return to the olive tone, I need to smooth out those blends again. If nothing else, I'm learning some lessons on this one. I need to learn a few more, though, that's for sure!

    Also: should I change that morningstar head to something less crazy? I initially wanted a very large weapon, but now I'm not sure I like it. It would be a very easy switch at this point.

  4. #204
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    Default Paints

    For the couple people who have been commenting on my recent paint pot splurge, treat yo self! When I have the urge to spend money on this hobby, I 1) try to ignore the devil on my left shoulder, then 2) compromise and invest in some nice tools. I have so many minis - you know you do, too - but getting nice things to use painting them makes the whole process far more enjoyable and successful. A good brush and some decent paints ensure that I'm not fighting my instruments. It's not that simple, with money, location, and all that... but treat yo self.

  5. #205

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    We're so close to our own work that it sometimes helps to have someone remind us of how we're doing - I'm glad I could be that someone for you this time.

    I quite like the brighter green. There is a difference in the shadows with the burgundy added, but it's too subtle still. Either it needs more glazes or slightly less thinned paint. IMHO.

    And I'm all on board with treating yourself! I'm dangerous in an art/hobby shop - there's a reason I have the majority of the GW paint range and a jar full of different brushes. Not to mention the boxes of models....
    Painting is easy when you don't know how, but very difficult when you do. ~ Edgar Degas

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  6. #206

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    You could try this:

    1. Put a (small) blob of your paint on a white plate (neat, no water). Drag some of it out on the plate, leaving a smear with a big blob at the end.

    2. Let it dry.

    3. When it is dry, ask yourself: is it dark enough? The paint will never get darker than the dried blob, and in fact is more likely to be the same dried colour as somewhere along the smear, seeing as we paint such thin layers on our figures.

    If if the end colour is right and dark enough, just glaze more into the shadows until you get there.

    If it isn't dark enough and you want basically the same shade but darker, then mix a bit of black in it. Nothing wrong with using black or white to mix up or down a shade you like.

    With Maulg I set a midtone transition from green to yellow on his belly, and green on his back. I have a forest green that dries almost black with enough layers, so knew I could use that for shadows on the green. For the yellow I mixed up a thin dark red - almost blood orange-like in colour, and used that. Then I made a purple wash that when dry is again almost black, and used that for added interest in the shadows. For each step I'm thinking 'what's the darkest version of this colour for my shadows? What's the lightest version for my highlights? And I mix these using white or black to darken and lighten. The complementary colours to add difference and interest (blood orange and purple, in my example) I'm happy that the colour choice is right: so then I'm checking what the darkest version of this colour is, and using accordingly.

    I'm writing from my phone so sorry if that makes no sense.

    PS I'm all for treats. I spend more time mixing than I do painting, so it might be time to give the 'proper' paints a go!
    Last edited by bgcdazzler; 12-15-2015 at 10:52 AM.

  7. #207

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    LoLooking promising....my pennies worth is arch has said what I'm always saying the perfect paintjob is back and fourth of highlighting by layering and or blending and shading the same way..I know I've been doing minis since 25 plus years ago and I never am able to execute a perfect transition with the exact appropriate colors I have in mind in one go...it takes several attempts sometimes many of going back rehighting readjusting smoothing out reshaping etc etc....so it Def is the right direction your in when you mention you might have to readdress somethings here and there.

    My other bit of pence is the highest and lowest point of the gradiant needs to be exaggerated a bit more...the overall look is a bit dark with tells me that the shades are fine it's the next several highlights that need to be taken a bit higher....maybe by adding in a beige to your greens this way you don't have to take it up to white or down to black...these are extremes that I rarely use so the darkest and lighEST I would use for a greenskin is a red purple or a deep red brown ,and beige mixed in increasing amounts as you approach the highest points of light be recieved. Again if at this point it seems to stark then you have the liberty of glazing everything down and unifying all the parts to the gradiant...if you like try it on a small piece first like one arm or one shoulder if it looks as if it popting more in a photo you take compared to the old images then you'll know if it's woring... REM your the new hobbyists there's much more to learn and go through but that's the best stage if you ask me that's the fun of it all...good job so far,keep it up.and use your near and far test ...the model up close should look as crisp and detailed (example each strand of hair should be discernable to the eye) AND the models details at arms length away should ALSO be very discernable to the eye at a glance.....for example you should be able to see the (eg depths of shading ,each hair strand and not just a color that looks uniform like a yellow head as opposed to each hairstrand.and in diff lighting you should do this test like under your ottlight,in a well lit room ,in a not so well lit room.etc

  8. #208

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    Go to reapers website..and type in "THE ART OF THIS ING PAINT" UNDER "THE CRAFT"......paint thinning to the right consitency,how to hold the brush on a 45 degree angle,how to glaze,how to blend and or layer....color schemes in relation to color theory....I would learn all these things first ...I'm still getting used to all these necessary skills that come way before any crazy stuff like water bases and sweeping dioramas......but again that's my perspective .that's what worked for me.either way read the reaper "craft" art of thinning paint...it should clear alot of things up.

  9. #209
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    Thanks, gang, for the helpful replies. I have not had a lot of time to paint in the last few days, but I'm starting a long break today and look forward to having a lot of productive time at the painting desk! I may also try to clean up my workspace (inspired by the guys at Massive Voodoo, maybe).
    I continued to work on the shadows, this time with Reaper Blue Liner, and it looks a bit darker. I then tried to ease some transitions with a mix of VMC Dark Sea Blue and Flat Green. Next I'm going to start working on some highlights, as BAM suggests. ArchArad, you're right that I can just keep alternating contrast-development and smoothing until I'm happy! I think I'm going to try some sort of subtle texture on the highlighted areas; I'm leaning toward some stippling to make it look like his skin is sort of bumpy in some places, but I might also/alternatively try some areas of darker spots or some sort of stretch marks on the raised surfaces. We'll see.
    My computer was unable to upload pictures this morning, so I'll try again in a few hours, perhaps.
    I hope you're all happy & well!

  10. #210
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    Trying to convince myself that this figure is looking better, but I am not feeling confident about it...
    I started adding highlights, then glazed them back down with the base color green. As it is, the contrasts aren't that great and the blends aren't that smooth. I'll try again tomorrow, I guess.
    I took the weapon head off, as I didn't like that too much, either.

  11. #211

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    I think you have corrected the "greyish" tone on the shadows, now you "only" need to push again the shadows (following BAM's advice) and then push a bit more into the light those highlights (only upper/more lightened parts). If you are somewhat exhausted of this, better move to the following part of the miniature to feel that you are "advancing" with the work, you can even leave it like it is and try to improve the result on another miniature
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  12. #212

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    MMaenas is right or work on two figures at once what baily calls 1 marathon project and one sprint...keep practicing and keep in mind this is a craft that is not easily gotten..if it was it wouldn't be very fun when you finish a perfect figure all the time.it took alot of us years ..to even remotely like what we produce.now I know you guys are starting this in the Era of youtube and easily covered tutorials that may look easy and make one feel they could grasp this quickly...but even the tiniest of nuances like thinning paint properly,learning how to smooth things out and even how to hold the brush differently for each of the tasks,keep this in perspective and it won't be so painful...and like I tell everybody go to the articles I'm suggesting reapers the art of thinning paint,Oz painters "the stop sign rule" learn these first and foremost before venturing on,this will get you better and I think that's what your after,not just to paint t models over and over .hang in there were all here to help you as best we can but as Im always saying,the more models that pass through your hand the better you get. NOW GO GIT EM TOAD!!!

  13. #213
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    Thanks, guys, for both the helpful advice and the moral support! BAM, I read the article you've suggested. I think I had found it before, but it's one of those things where you can get new things out of some materials when you're bringing a broader perspective to it. Thanks for sending me back to that one. And don't worry about me devaluing hard work and experience, that's not my style; on the other hand, the fact that I have so many of you guys available to focus my efforts productively means I don't want to waste time, either. My impatience is due to the fact that I'm trying hard to put the things I've learned here (theoretically) into practice!
    I think I'm starting to feel satisfied with the tonal contrast:
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    Feeling a little better about that, I have started to work some glazes to start building up color contrast as well. I assume I'll be getting BAM-y points for the red?!?!
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    Though I'm feeling a little happier about the look of this little guy, I think I may start on the other sections of the figure soon to get that feeling of progress you mentioned. Man, I love that feeling!

  14. #214

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    Yeah - nicely done reintroducing and pushing the shades again. A step away for a different section can bring you back with fresh enthusiasm.

    Keep at it! *waves pom-poms*
    Painting is easy when you don't know how, but very difficult when you do. ~ Edgar Degas

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  15. #215
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    Didn't hold back:
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    I'm starting to see the character I'd imagined emerge. I really pushed the colored glazes on there, and I like the results. Sorry for the awful picture.

  16. #216
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    Starting to work on the fur loincloth (I am thinking to paint it sort of pale yellowish-beige to pick up on all the purple on the model) and some little details (the teeth, bone jewelry).
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    BAM, you're fairly safe in hoping for something simpler than a diorama-scale finished product, as I'm pretty certain I cannot fit all the planned models onto a 2x2x2 cube... I want a little scene with narrative content, but I am not intending to create a truly large project yet. I have something cool (I think) planned, but I may have to scale back my original idea somewhat (and, of course, save the original idea for another day!). Hopefully I'll be working on other models very soon, both for motivation's sake and to paint up the other components of the planned vignette.

  17. #217
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    Continue with detail stuff: eyes, lips, teeth, purple spots on back.
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    ​Let me know if you have any suggestions. I'm finally liking how this goblin is looking, but I know there's room for improvement.

  18. #218

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    II'm liking everything so far I am waiting till your further along with the spots to see if in my opinion they're tied in and work..but everything else looks like a good job thus far.

  19. #219
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    Well, here is the latest:
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    BAM, as you can see, I've tried to make the spots look like some bumpy skin on the back of the goblin.

  20. #220

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    You have been busy! The bumpy effect works quite well.
    Painting is easy when you don't know how, but very difficult when you do. ~ Edgar Degas

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