SaintToad's WIP - Page 32
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Thread: SaintToad's WIP

  1. #621

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    It's working well. Good save on the rust and bare metal
    "Remember, you can't spell paint without a little pain."

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  2. #622
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    When I close my eyes, all I can see are tiny white lines (and then the tiny brown ones to clean up the tiny white ones)...
    I actually have all five figures done, but I thought I'd give a closer view of a couple. I have the day free today, so I was hoping to [gulp] finish these dudes! At the rate I'm going, that ain't gonna happen...

  3. #623
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    Starting to add doodads: red wires, leather, guts. Still have to knock out the actual skin, but perhaps I'll finish sometime soon after all!
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    If anyone can give me tips to make these things bulletproof, I'd really appreciate it. I've spent a lot of time on them, and I'm fairly happy with the results this far, but I am going to be playing with them. I want them to survive without chipping if at all possible. Maybe one of you guys who works on commission has some tips? Anyone? I'm happy to do a bunch of layers of varnish or whatever, I just want them to be super durable.

  4. #624

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    I haven't tried it myself but I hear matte varnish alone doesn't offer much protection so I think for best protection a gloss varnish followed by a matte coat is used, this is only what I've read though so maybe someone else who games more has better input

    P.s. after seeing these I was inspired to go buy some forest greens, got. £5 loyalty gift certificate from the place I get my gw stuff, yay for free paints

  5. #625

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    3 coats of testors dullcote or 1 gloss coat followed by 1 coat of dullcote
    "Remember, you can't spell paint without a little pain."

    Blog: almostperftec.blogspot.ca
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  6. #626

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    Yes, unfortunately, Matte varnish dulls the paint used on a model. (I used Liquitex so you may have different results with whatever you use). I had that happen to one of mine and the metal turned out to look like garbage when it didn't before. I could see an acrylic box working in theory. This would require a trip to Home Depot as you would need acrylic cement, obviously acrylic sheets, epoxy or superglue, and a power saw. I'm not quite sure of your hacksaw skills, but I'm pretty sure that it is physically impossible for anyone human to make a perfect line with a hacksaw. Making this box would keep the dust off and the paint the same as it was before. This box, most importantly, would prevent grubby little mitts from almost dropping your Onslaught of Decay model into a trillion little pieces. (Sorry about that ) I'm not familiar with the gloss and matte varnish combo that Sicks and Zab suggested, so it's really up to you.

  7. #627
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    Thanks, guys. That was my understanding, as well, about the gloss >>> matte varnish. Is there any preferred gloss varnish brand for durability?
    Hero, I'm not worried (currently) about transportation or storage, but actual handling during a game. Obviously, if some little twerp put his "grubby mitts" on my tiny masterpieces and broke it, I would give him detention...
    Last edited by SaintToad; 06-23-2016 at 10:21 PM.

  8. #628

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    I didn't mean to suggest that you make a box big enough to hold multiple minis, but a small enough box to just barely contain the mini and the base. The box would be an alternative to the varnish, but there are downsides to it. If you prefer varnish, that's perfectly fine by me!

  9. #629

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    Nice extras there, did you used the super metallic paints on these minis?

  10. #630

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zab View Post
    3 coats of testors dullcote or 1 gloss coat followed by 1 coat of dullcote
    I second this. My preference is Krystal Clear (Krylon brand I believe for use to protect painting and art work) followed by Testors Dullcote (I have yet to find something comparble to Dullcote).

  11. #631
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    Quote Originally Posted by KruleBear View Post
    I second this. My preference is Krystal Clear (Krylon brand I believe for use to protect painting and art work) followed by Testors Dullcote (I have yet to find something comparble to Dullcote).

    Yeah, Dullcote is the only thing that really does exactly what you want. Thanks for the tip on the Krylon Krystal Clear. I'll get precisely that!
    Here's where we are now:
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    Now, you might ask me, 'wasn't it annoying to go in and basecoat all that skin on that fat fart-blasting flamer after you did all that armor and metal and leather and chains and stuff?' Yes, yes it was. I am not looking forward to shading & highlights, either...

  12. #632
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teronus View Post
    Nice extras there, did you used the super metallic paints on these minis?
    No, Tero, those things are sitting beside my painting desk. I'm sort of terrified of them!

    I just used Vallejo Oily Steel, which I like a lot, and mixed it with black. I have edge highlights of very thin O.Steel on the exposed metals (shoulderpads, backpacks, guns, rivets, hoses). Then, of course, I have four (I think) layers of rust colors to which I added baking soda for texture, several thin layers of various washes at different points in the process, and a bit of an extreme highlight of VMC Ivory so the metals wouldn't get outshined by the chipped paint.

  13. #633
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    Well, the ugly boys are finally starting to look like a unit. I still have lots to do, but the corner does look like it has been turned. I adopted the magenta pox stare (eye shadow?) from this awesome thing.
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    I can imagine the one marine saying to his buddies "Come on! Nobody told me we were doing no-helmets for the picture. Dang it, you guys!"

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  15. #635

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    Very sharp metals toad...I like them a lot ,it seems you taken my perspective on dirty metal and made your own recipe which kicks ass I will add!!!

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  17. #637
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    OSL on helmet man, plus Nurgle (im)purity seals done in burnt-ish orange. My OSL experience is very limited, so let me know if it looks like crap.
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  18. #638
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    I finally added shoulderpads to the marine with the silenced bolter (I had left them off to make access to the face easier). Matching the color on the left shoulder to the rest of the armor was a pain in the rump, but I really like the color (although it is definitely not a perfect match). On the right side, I put a bit of faded, slightly dingy black, but with little corrosion, to make room for a tiny bit of freehand in orange to pick up the color of the heretical seals on two of his buddies. I still have to do all the bases (definitely willing to listen to input on the color scheme of the bases, although I do have ideas) and I'm planning to add a bit of (hopefully dramatic) last minute funk to the whole unit, this guy is the first one of the group to be 'finished', pending those final details. Yay Nurgle!
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  19. #639

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    Quote Originally Posted by SaintToad View Post
    My OSL experience is very limited, so let me know if it looks like crap.
    I photoshoped your green eyes to show you what was missing for a convincing OSL effect.

    It was missing a "light source" so I added a light green and then white dot in the center of the eyes to help with the effect.



    Before


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    After

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  20. #640

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    For bases I like the idea of doing something like a natural grassy base but with the grass dying and drying out around the feet as though nurgle rot spreads with every step they take, thematically it sounds awesome in my head but it might be too much green, perhaps the idea could be adopted to something with less greenery but I'm not sure what. That freehand nurgle symbol is lovely and crisp, I'm in envy of it, doing curves and circles I find really difficult

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