HELP (with mould line on King Maulg)
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Thread: HELP (with mould line on King Maulg)

  1. #1

    Default HELP (with mould line on King Maulg)

    Hey guys...

    So i'm loving the king maulg mini, BUT my model had one particular big mauld line down the left side of the body and leg. Anyone have any experience on how to effectively clean this? When I try I just ruin all the detail, because of the mould line sitting on top of detail??

    Anyone from this thread can help?

  2. #2


    Various methods. Light filing with a good quality jewellers file.
    Cut off with a sharp blade.
    Or filed off with a electronic hand file thingy.
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    Thank you for asking but I don't do commissions.

  3. #3
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    If it is very bad (the mold shifted) you might send a message to the manufacturer for a replacement.
    A set of jewelers files is very handy for mold lines.
    Scraping with an X-acto blade works for minor lines.
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  4. #4

  5. #5


    For a mold line proud of the surface. File and/or sand it back carefully making maximum effort to preserve the detail of the sculpt. As said above jewelers files, your xacto knife with a fresh blade will work well. I have some foam sanding sticks with 800 grit paper on each side. They are thin and flexible and have a pointed end. They are really good for getting to lines in hard to reach places. Fine steel wool can work really well on metal. If the line is bad, chances are you will damage or remove some detail. repair it with milliputt or green stuff.

    For a line that recedes into the surface (the cast was short shot and didn't get enough of the minis material, where two halves of a plastic kit come together) or where a mini has surface imperfections. You'll need to fill the imperfection. Milliputt, liquid greenstuff, greenstuff whatever works. for very small shallow imperfections milliputt mixed down to a milky consistency with water and then painted on in a few layers works fine. Again sand it lightly to remove any excess and get the smooth surface you are after.

    For a misaligned or slipped mold, you get a step. Where on one side of the line the surface is significantly lower than the other side. Use your putty again and fill the step in and blend the putty into the lower surface trying to match the detail and contours of the sculpt. With a little practice you can erase even a massive displacement. On the Bloodthirster I painted some time ago I had to repair a 2mm step in parts of the arms and torso.

  6. #6


    Side note: I usually use a piece of electrical tape or a band-aid to cover up my thumb when I use an x-acto to clean a mini. I find I have better control when I scrape towards myself/thumb, and it saves me from all those little micro-cuts.

  7. #7


    When trying to get into finicky places I use mini files but if it's ultra small detail I use different grades of sandpaper I've superglued to the end of a toothpick. I cut small thin triangles about 5mm long and glue them to the end of a toothpick. I then roll the sides of the paper around the toothpick. I find I can get the point into virtually any nook and cranny without taking off detail like a larger piece would.

  8. #8


    what type of dremel do you use? I have seen some Facebook videos of people using them convert pieces but unsure of what model, brand, and power setting etc

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