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Thread: Lone Lemming's WIP

  1. #221

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    I know I did not post for a long time, as I promised I working on some not so interesting TTQ minis, but here are some squig herders now:

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    I think that the goblin on the left is the funniest piece of the GW range.

  2. #222

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    And two more squig herders:

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    I luckily broke one of the pipes when pushed the goblin to the base. And the left face of the goblin on the right was a mess, I painted some scar over it. Failcast at its best, fragile and miscasted.

    Luckily I can paint cartoonish NMM faster and faster.

    BTW what happened to the "Manage attachments" window? I can not add pictures from my phone.

  3. #223

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    I feel your pain regarding ' failcast' . I haven't bought any myself as such but I've had my fair share of badly cast resin miniatures. Especially before casting improvements were made a few years back. My scratch building skills are not refined enough to build entire missing elements where quality control fell asleep or just didn't exist. It's frustrating to have to fill in a multitude of small bubbles and holes.
    I apologise if you have already covered it and I'm too blind to see, but could you tell me what you use for your NMM silver? It looks nice enough to pass off as a good looking metal element but a style that someone could easily learn. I've been resistant to using NMM for years but it would look good on all my Rackham dwarves.

  4. #224

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    Just check my gallery, I used to describe my recipes.

    For steel I use nowadays VMC German Grey, London Grey, Medium Sea Grey and Pale Grey Blue, but any bluish grey scale would be fine (in the past I used VGC colors, like Heavy Charcoal, Sombre Grey, Glacier Blue)
    VMC German Grey is the darkest color and I use it in the recesses, and build the colors up from German Grey:London Grey to Pale Grey Blue, and use White as highlight color.
    On the biggest, forward looking surfaces I paint the light colors towards the bottom, and on the side looking surfaces I paint the light colors towards the top. The other surfaces need some figuring to look right, but the basic idea is to preserve the contrast, not putting similar colors to each other.
    For shading I use the loaded brush method (German Grey:London Grey, then some Medium Sea Grey and a small dot of Pale Grey Blue in the tip of the brush), sometimes I paint from the middle to the edges (loading Medium Sea Grey in the brush, and some German Grey/Pale Grey Blue in the tip of the brush). When I am lucky, it takes me 3-5 passes to paint a surface, but sometimes I need 10. As you can see, I am still working on it.

    BTW I did not mention, but broke one of the spears, too.

  5. #225

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    Furthermore I completed my first commission, a set of tokens/minis/robots for RoboRally

    I did not wish to spend much time on them (less than 1h per mini), here are the results:

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  6. #226

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    I started working on my Longbeard unit, especially on the banner.

    - I draw the outlines with pencil
    - Painted them with diluted VMC 70822 German C. Black Brown
    - Filled it with VMC 70921 English Uniform and VMC 70814 Burnt Cadmium Red
    - I used white to highlight English Uniform, as I wanted to achieve a more muted golden look (as opposed to all my gold parts)
    - Red was highlighted with VMC 70908 Carmine Red and VMC 70845 Sunny Skin Tone.
    - There are some parts I need to fix, but I think it begins to look good, especially for TTQ.

    The pictures are:

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    PS1:

    And received something I will spend at least half of the next year on:

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    PS2:

    Boguz, I did not forget you, but my wife used all the mulch in our garden, and the replacement Tesco mulch is resembles dirt. And she does not allow me to buy another 50 liters. Need to find out something.

  7. #227

  8. #228

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    envy on the Contraros mini.
    Hope I can see something great in person in december.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  9. #229

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    Sorry, next december.

    I need to spend a lot of time planning, and even more on painting, will not finish (not even begin!) this year.

  10. #230

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    This is a short SBS on how I drew the dwarf head on the flag:

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  11. #231

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    Quote Originally Posted by MAXXxxx View Post
    envy on the Contraros mini.
    Hope I can see something great in person in december.
    Exactly the same thoughts.... hehehehe it's an impressive miniature, almost overwhelming. Take your time we will be watching.... ^^

    And thank you for explaining how you did the banner.
    Feel free to come by my WIP or have a look into my Gallery
    Voted on 5377 out of 235568 minis, and also left 847 comments on Cmon Gallery.


  12. #232

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    Nice banner and appreciate the sbs on it. The dwarf is really turning out nice.

  13. #233

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    Boguz,

    better late than sorry, here are the images if you are still interested:

    1/a. I glue pine bark mulch with PVA to the base.

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    2. When dry, with additional PVA I add some sand, like https://www.pk-pro.de/CP-Sand

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    1/b: After that, I cover the base again with watered down PVA glue, as the bark is prone to break into slices, and the sand is prone to chip off.

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    3. Priming with back (I use airbrush)

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    4. Priming only from above with white

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    5/a. Airbrushing with VGC 72089 Green ink from above.

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    5/b. Airbrushing with VGC 72088 Blue ink from above. Stones will have a nice turquoise hue.

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    6. I mix Vallejo 73108 Brown Iron Oxide pigment with water, and wash the base with it. The pigments will stay in the recesses, and as they are about the opposite color of turquoise, will tone down it down.

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    7. IMPORTANT: varnishing with sateen varnish. You can not add snow or drybrush further as the pigments will get everywhere and will ruin everything
    8. Drybrush with VMC 70.907 Pale Grey Blue.

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    9. I paint the side of the base with 1:1 mix of VMC 70950 Black:VMC 70966 Turquoise
    10. I mix soda-bicarbonate and matte/sateen varnish to have a dense snow-like material and apply it to the base.

  14. #234

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    In the past couple of months I did not paint anything extraordinary, finished the Longbeards and painted an Arachnarok body (no howdah so far).

    However I started working on Peter Pan, the child thief.

    Plan is to have a warm to cold transition on the body, pants and corset are VMC 70960 Violet, VMC 70812 Violet Red and 70985 Hull Red, darkened with 1:1 Black and highlighted with white.

    First stage, pants Violet+Black base, adding white. The PITA was the left thigh, I really need to improve my wet blending skills:

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  15. #235

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    At first the highlight was not correctly placed on the left thigh, had to shift to the middle (like I said, PITA), but after glaze it got better.
    Related to this the corset was kind of easy and straightforward, after some VMC 70812 Violet Red glazes it looked fine (though this is a very thin color, did not change the black much)
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    Seems that I need to fix the inside of the right thigh.

  16. #236
    Cat-herder Extraordinaire Meph's Avatar
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    Peter Pan's got girly legs. Nicely painted though.
    Large Blood Angels Terminator
    FW Space Marine
    Blood Angel Army Project
    -"Alien fart bubbles. It's all one needs in life to find direction and motivation."- Digganob

  17. #237

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    After applying the VMC 70985 Hull Red for the threads, here is the almost final version of the legs, with the colors I used so far (minus black and white):

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  18. #238

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    Peter Pan's got girly legs. Nicely painted though.
    He has some manly parts between his legs, too
    Thanks!

  19. #239

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    I started working on the top, plan is to use VMC Rose Brown, Beige Red and Basic Skintone, using black and white for shading and highlight.

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    First try, became too dark and a bit lifeless:

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    Scrapping, retrying.

  20. #240

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Lemming View Post
    ...use VMC Rose Brown, Beige Red and Basic Skintone, using black and white for shading and highlight.
    ... a bit lifeless:
    because of black, white and basic skintone.
    The last really kills all life in a skintone. Should be used sparingly.
    Forgot, that it works again.

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