Is sigvald fine cast? Those are pretty common leftovers from the holding process on all the fine cast minis I've had, you need to carfully remove them with a hobby knife. Looks like alot of interesting things are going to happen in this thread soon
Is sigvald fine cast? Those are pretty common leftovers from the holding process on all the fine cast minis I've had, you need to carfully remove them with a hobby knife. Looks like alot of interesting things are going to happen in this thread soon
And the spider riders and the troll can be found in the gallery:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/398506
http://www.coolminiornot.com/398508
Sicks:
>> Those are pretty common leftovers from the holding process on all the fine cast minis I've had
Yes, this is finecast, but does not really contains bubles, so not a failcast in that manner. These beams, however, well, lets say I did not expect such a "feature"...
On weekend I took a lot of photos of the BfSP models, and could try out the AoS with my daughters.
Let's say that at first look the goblins are overpowered, e.g. the spiders with their 20 poisonous bite were unstoppable, need something to upgrade the dwarfs.
I started to work on Sigvald's base
- layered 1mm plastic sheet, magnetic foil and some more plastic stripes to hold the base
- filled the bottom of the base with wood filler, and put self adhesive ferrofoil to the bottom
- Added some cork to the base so there will be space under Sigvald's leg:
Then broke up the ceramic copy of the texture sheet, and started to put it on the base and the frame:
The copied sword succeeded quite well, but I failed to cut it up correctly, so I had to recast it.
And finally I managed to glue the floor and added some cork granulate to the corner where I run out of floor:
I had to recast the sword 3 times, but after some time I could finish the broken sword:
Colors are:
Metal: Black+Turquoise (2:1), highlighting to white
Gold preshading: Black+GoldenYellow+Violet (1:1:1), highlighting to white
Gold: GoldenYellow, highlighting to white
Handle: Black+Violet (1+1), highlighting to Base+White (1:1)
Gem: Black+Violet (1+1), highlighting to Pink and to Pink+White (1:1), White reflection dot
This piece took me ~3.5 hours, mostly because I had to find out how to paint the gold (would have been ~2.5 hours).
The White has been changed to Schmincke PRYMAcryl Titanium White (via Ben Komets), it is the best white I used so far, highly recommended.
Last edited by Lone Lemming; 05-31-2016 at 04:47 AM.
overall looks good, but
- you could push the contrast on the NMM-steel a bit more. The darkest parts are not dark enough (could go down to pure black), the lightest not light enough (pure white glares, now it seems the lightest parts are just light grey)
- could look at the light directions too. On the wrist it looks like light comes from above, on the hand from the side, on the fingers from front/side, crossguard from below or from gem, pommel partly above and partly below... So the direction of light is not really consistent.
- NMM-gold: sorry, but just looks yellow. On one side the contrast is really missing (should be much much darker in the darkest parts) on the other hand I find the gold recipe not really good.
A slightly better one could go from VGC-ScorchedBrown through VGC-CobraLeather to a mix with some Yellow to VMC-Ivory, then some glazes of dark flesh and purple/violet. TC (who painted this for the last GG: https://www.facebook.com/gamesdaybud...type=3&theater ) uses this formula as far as I know.
I also like the 'cold-gold' used on the chaos painting from Ben for it's simplicity(uses just black, japanese uniform, ivory) and how it looked.
- the bottom gem could use a few glazes to make the transition smoother.
Also: forget NMM, joint the TMM side
Last edited by MAXXxxx; 05-31-2016 at 05:44 AM.
Forgot, that it works again.
Here are the changes I done yesterday:
:: - you could push the contrast on the NMM-steel a bit more
Done, black is used, too, even if it cannot be seen on photo.
:: - could look at the light directions too.
Took a reference photo, sword lights are updated
:: - NMM-gold: sorry, but just looks yellow
Changed to Japanese Uniform, added some contrast, too. But dark color will be yellow mixed with purple, it part of the color scheme I planned to use.
:: - the bottom gem could use a few glazes to make the transition smoother.
Done. I planned to do it, but could not keep open my eyes on Monday evening enough
Last edited by Lone Lemming; 06-01-2016 at 09:08 AM.
Wow, this is really looking cool.
I started working on the shield:
Inside:
Outside (top is to the right):
Skin base color is: Pink+JapUniform+Black (1:1:1)
Highlighted with surprisingly lot of white (base:white 1:1)
Snake base color is Turquoise+JapUniform (1:1), shaded w/ back and highlighted w/ white
Shield color is Turquoise+Black (1:1), highlighted outside up to white.
I still need to work a lot on my wet blending and glazing white, but it is much easier to do it with Schmincke PROAcryl than with any other white I tried so far.
Things I am thinking about:
- Spend more time on shield glazing? I expect it to look better than my Stormcast Eternal, but I feel that I will not be able to do better transitions.
- Add some scratches? I do not know how fluffy is that, the shield would look definitely better, but all the best examples on cmon are extra shiny, w/o any scratches.
yes, spend some more time glazing the shield
you call on the scratches. If you like them, add them. Or you could add a freehanded rose in the middle. Or a freehanded rose + scratches.
Unless it's for sale you will be the one who looks at it at most, so it has to look good for you.
snake could use an extra hihlight. The gold here looks better, but I think it (and on the sword parts too) could/should be shaded even more.
Forgot, that it works again.
Changes done during weekend:
:: yes, spend some more time glazing the shield
Done
:: you call on the scratches. If you like them, add them.
I will not add scrathes, the answer is quite simple, it would look strange on the mini as all the other parts are already decorated and those would not look well with weathering.
:: Or a freehanded rose + scratches.
Freehand will be on the cape
:: Unless it's for sale
It is for Golden Gobbo
:: snake could use an extra hihlight.
Added.
:: The gold here looks better, but I think it (and on the sword parts too) could/should be shaded even more.
There is an additional gold shade, 1:1:1 JapUni:Violet:Black, it is in the recesses. But the sword will be shaded more.
Last week I had some kind of creative crisis, could not paint a simple color transition:
After a lot of time I found out that the problem was with the brush, when I switched to W&N size 1 from size 0 I could finish the color transition on the blade.
The finished right hand looks like this:
Creative crisis continued with the face.
Mixing Pink and JapUniform created a kind of reddish-brown, but it was too gray for the face, so I had to fall back to Beige Red
Furthermore the eyes are really small, and could not see them correctly. It is possible that I will go over them (or at least on the left one) again. Nevertheless, here is the face painted:
Painting the mail and the shoulderpads was luckily straightforward:
Mail highlights, necklace and cload will come next.
I think the sword turned out great.
After the model is assembled you should look around if you need a few extra glares done with an off-white (ivory, khm, ivory
Right now I say the hand could use one or two, but it may not be needed depending on where it is after assembly. But some extra shading is needed imho on the gold parts. Not the whole one, but the shades could be pushed to a darker 'brown'.
What's wrong with BeigeRed for the skin. ATM it's my favorite base for it.
And on the pic I think the face looks good too. Maybe you'd need to work on the eyes no matter how small they are.
You could use the trick MV uses for small eyes:
- darken the eye socket
- pick out the eyeball with an off-white (light-skin or ivory or white-gray or something similar) from the side (easier to do it that way)
- put in the pupil with a sharpened toothpick. Basically you sharpen the toothpick, until the end is as small as needed for the iris-pupil, dab it into thinned paint, try it out on your skin to remove the paint that's not needed (basically same as for brush control), then dab in the eye. Plus in this is that both irises will be equal large. Plus plus : after painting in the iris like this you can make the (other)end of the toothpick even smaller and dab in a pupil in black and a glare in white.
Forgot, that it works again.
Dude I think you're being hard on yourself the sword and face looks great.
Nice idea with the toothpick Max, I'm going to try that ASAP
:: What's wrong with BeigeRed for the skin.
I challenged myself to use the the palette shown before (White, Black, Pink, Violet, Turquoise, JapUniform).
:: Maybe you'd need to work on the eyes no matter how small they are.
I was thinking about it, and
- none of the Sigvalds above 8.0 shows the left eye
- seems that the right eye is sculpted bigger than the left eye, so I have no chance to make the same sized irises and having the white shown correctly
I tried MV's trick ~2 years ago, but was not satisfied.
Issues:
- paint dried too fast on toothpick, and as the paint is on the outside of the toothpick (not inside, like in a brush), it easily makes a mesh
- with brush I can paints smaller dots, and expanding a misplaced dot in the appropriate direction is much easier than placing the toothpick exactly in the right position.
- the eyes are too small to place a black pupil and a white reflection. The funny thing is that the ~20mm BfSP dwarfes have bigger eyes than a 28mm Sigvald.
It's the world which is hard on me
Thanks for the compliment.
I agree with the "it looks good" sentiment. The sword looks lik airbrushed transitions, so I would say job well done.
On Friday I could finish (more or less) the platemail and the necklace:
And MAXXxxx, I did not forget to push the black, will think about it, but currently I leave it to the etched parts.
Last edited by Lone Lemming; 06-20-2016 at 10:34 AM.
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