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Thread: Kuribo's Mansions of Madness WIP

  1. #161

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    I think you're right on the ringwraith, Foxtail. It isn't an impressive mini even when painted nicely though my brother really enjoyed it which is the important thing. I spent more time on the base than I did on the mini so I shouldn't be too upset about the score. This is part of why I haven't submitted stuff to be rated, it gets me competitive and fired up when I'm generally not that type. With that said, it probably won't be my last submission...
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    Normally, I wouldn't post again so quickly but I took your feedback to heart and tried to address it all and I can definitely see some real improvement! I have two additional questions for anyone who wants to take them, do the silver edge highlights on the bronze look good or should they be brighter or cover more of the metallic parts? I think the next Blood Warrior I paint, I can put the highlights in place from the beginning and they will look better but hopefully these are on the right track. Secondly, how can I get this axe looking better? I dulled down the steel pretty well and tried to start blending in lighter steel and I think maybe there isn't enough room to do that or maybe I'm just approaching this wrongly. Any advice would be much appreciated!

  2. #162

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    Hey Kuribo,

    I think you have a good base colour for the bronze/gold. You need to decide how you want the armour to look next...shiny and pristine, war damaged or old and tarnished and think about how this would affect the look of the armour.

    For the edge highlighting - the GW way would be to pretty much highlight every edge in a darker fatter highlight then go over each edge again with a much finer brighter highlight.

    From my perspective I try to treat the edge highlights a bit more realistically picking up where I think the light is hitting from a fixed imaginary source. I also would use a bright chrome colour to work in some ultra fine scratches as part of the edge highlights running from the inner areas to the edge of the plates. Again imagining how these plates might scape against each other or may have been scraped against rocks or the ground.

    Finally metals are never just gold, bronze etc. All of these materials contain the reflections of the environment they exist in plus the additional colours they gain with age and oxidisation. Don’t be afraid to experiment with ultra diluted washes of greens, turquoise’s, violets etc in the recesses of these metals.

    with any of this I would recommend practising on an old mini or scrap bit of plastic. Good luck and keep going you are making great progress and on the right tracks.

  3. #163

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    If it helps here’s some progress pics from the shoulder pad on the stormcast im painting.

    from top left -

    1. Base coat of VMA bright bronze
    2. Highlight main features and surfaces with VGC glorious gold, then pristine gold, then chrome
    3. Shade recesses and darker parts of surfaces with diluted Game ink skin wash
    4. Multiple coats of black green, blue and skin wash ink mix (dirty turquoise) to recesses...go slow and build these up.
    5. VMC light turquise and VGC escorpina green mix combined with lots of glaze medium to make translucent oxide colour. Add to recesses and around rivers etc to gradually build colour.

    Not the best pics sorry but that’s the problem with metallic photos unfortunately

  4. #164

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    the colours are good, nice tones of red and the metal matches well. your edge hi lighting on the armour is a little too thick in places. needs a slightly lighter touch . I like the darker patches on the back of his helmet. it looks more battle damaged and suits the mii well. id possible repeat this in other places.

    good stuff though, keep at it.

  5. #165

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    Hairster - Thank you for all of the information! I feel a bit daft admitting this but I didn't understand that edge highlights are actually wear on the metal. I just thought they were extreme highlights! Now that I understand their purpose, I understand why the Blood Warrior needed them. I touched up the edges based on your feedback Coyotebreaks and he looks better. Once I get the base done, I'll post pictures. After some frustration and disappointment, I needed to change gears before I tried another Blood Warrior so instead I turned to their opposite.
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    Since then I started my first Stormcast. These Retributors are fun to paint and have some nice detail but take less work than the Blood Warriors do if that makes sense. I can see why they're so popular in Warhammer. I hate doing a stock color scheme (which bothered me once I got further along with the Blood Warrior) so I looked for an alternative paint scheme and found one I really like with the Hallowed Knights. I got to try out new colors and using Drakenhoff Nightshade has led to a fairly good effect so far to my eyes. With that said, I'm sure this could improve, any suggestions on what to focus on? I see I need brighter edge highlights on the stuff with Kantor Blue and It looks like the edge highlights need to be cleaned up a bit more in places too but past that, I'm sure there are other areas that can be improved too.

  6. #166

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    That stormcast is looking really good man... A suggestion I will make (feel free to totally ignore it), mix up some agrax earthshade 50:50 with lahmian medium and give all the metal areas a wash (both the gold and the silver) when dry use the same mix to deepen the shadows to the depth of contrast you desire... this will give the metallics a nice grimey aged look and also help to transition the blends of your highlights... if you use inks too thick(not thinned with medium) you will virtually lose all your blending and will find your shadow will be too strong and you will have to re-layer you highlights... BUT don’t get me wrong it looks great as is, so it’s quite alright to leave it, it is just what I would do to it, that’s all...

  7. #167

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    As an alternative to what chaotic said you could also do glazes with drakenhof nightshade and then black in the deepest shadows for the steel parts, so you'd have black - blue - silver as the shades, thin the washes a lot with lahmian, I'd be tempted to do even 3:1 medium to wash and build it up with a few passes, reason being it's easier to get a nice blend to the non metallic colours that way than trying to use the metallic for a smooth transition if you accidentally went too strong with the shades

  8. #168

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    the stormcast is looking good so far. I like the suggestions above, worth a go I reckon

  9. #169

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    Coming along nicely Kuribo, would definately agree with the comments above, if you can work in some more tonal range on the silver it would give the mini more depth and impact.

    The vallejo model air metallics offer a really sharp crisp chrome that can be mixed with your gold and then used clean to add some top end gold highlights and as a straight chrome hgihlight on your silvers.

    Making great progress on these though - keep at it!

  10. #170

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    Thank you once again for the feedback everyone! I apologize for taking so long to reply and not being around much on CMON lately. It has been a busy one both at work and over the weekend. I've made significant progress on the Stormcast Eternal and should have close to final pictures to show off sometime this week. The suggestions by Sicks and Chaotic have been really helpful and have upped the contrast quite a bit. At this point I'm just waiting on some basing material to finish it up.

    I do have a question for Hairster or anyone else who uses non-GW metallic paint. I got Vallejo Model Air Chrome as suggested and that was a lot nicer to work with than GW's paint. I have had some frustration with GW's metallics since they dry quickly and can not be watered down like regular paints. Would you recommend the Vallejo Model Air for all metallics because I'm ready to replace the GW stuff with something better! I've heard Vallejo metallics are better but I'm open to any suggestions. I want to get this sorted out before I tackle the second Stormcast and hopefully apply all the recent lessons I've learned!

  11. #171

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    Hey Kuribo....my metallics are all Vallejo currently apart from a couple of Scale 75 ones. I only have a few GW paints and none of them are metallic ones so it’s hard to compare. I’ve got a Vallejo gunmetal Silver that is ultra thick and dries really quickly...usually some glazing medium (lahmium medium GW) will get it to a better painting consistency but does not help with the drying up issues.

    Have definately found the model air ones work better for flow and consistency though.

    I think it depends on the pigment to medium ratio and for some colour they seem to come up a lot thicker...I always find whites and creams come up thick, probably an effort by the manufacturers to make them cover better/quicker

    The main aim thing is you find something that works for you...

  12. #172

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    I only have one VMA metallic (aluminium) but it is much finer than GW metallics and still has great coverage, aside from that I've got scale 75 steel and gold sets which are great but I find they take a few more layers on base coats to get full coverage, I usually use GW lead belcher as my base and then work with S75 metallics but if the other VMA metallics behave like the aluminium one then they'd be a big improvement over gw

  13. #173

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    Hey Kuribo. Your forays into GW are going really well.
    On metallics, I use Vallejo Metal Colour. It’s super thin, designed for airbrushes, so it takes a bit of getting used to, but from
    using citadel, Vallejo model colour, air colour and metal colour they’re by far the best.
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  14. #174

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    Sicks, Hairster, and Fox, thanks so much for weighing in on this! I’ve been doing a lot of research looking for a better metallic paint option and all signs point to Vallejo Metal Color. It is encouraging to know that you like it Fox and gives me confidence that the somewhat expensive paint is worth it.

    I have become doubly determined to find better metallic paint as my second and last Retributor turned into a trainwreck this week. The paint didn’t go on smoothly and a couple of brush bristles came off and onto the mini. I tried to remove the bristle and redo those spots with no success. I got an Easy to Build set for Christmas and the gaps in plastic are bad on those kits and really noticeable on the second one. I’m going to pitch it and move on to other projects for a bit until I get better metallic paint. I bought a Knight Questor on Ebay and look forward to returning to him one of these days.
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    I have finished the Blood Warrior base and so I’m calling him done. I do like the snow effect I got from AK Interactive. It is super easy to use and really pops. I will return the remaining Blood Warriors somewhere down the line.
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    I also am nearing completion on the original Retributor. Big thanks to Hairster on that suggestion of VMA Chrome and Gold! It looks so much better than it did before. I goofed up a bit and used tufts that contrast too much and I should have done the lion shoulder plate in gold but had already finished it in silver before I realized the mistake I’ve made. Even with that and a few other flaws, I’m proud of this piece and it is one of my best yet. I think I’ll probably put it in my gallery soon unless anyone has further suggestions to improve it. Thanks to all of you for the advice and feedback along the way!

  15. #175

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    It looks fabulous. Bottom line. Now me saying this is another step you can take. Every model including those by $10,000.00 Crystal Brush winners, and those who are demon slayer sword winners can always add more to a model. A model is NRVER perfectly painted. Allhowever hit a finality where they seem to be and are in fantastic standings just like this guy you’ve done. This is something you can think about as you progress as a painter. There are certain things that are mainstays in figure painting eg are faces being focal point , blending a must be smooth etc etc. Another tidbit of info that has helped me in my pursuit of painting a better miniature is how light effects the model. So here it is the highest point of light will fall on the head face etc. As you approach the model when moving away from these parts it’s important to know all the parts do not have the same value of illumination. So as you move from he head then you hit the torso the shading will be darker as you go from the chest and shoulders towards the waist. Same goes for the shading increases from the shoulders and becomes deeper as you move towards the forearms and hands. The darkest parts aside from under the armpits and the groun will be the arms and legs. Preferably the forearms and the shin an calf areas. So if you wanted to give more shape and a bit more enhancement to your models deeper shades (not much but deeper than the rest) on the legs (shins and calf shadows) now your already 10 steps in cause I can pick your shadows out in these areas . If you wanted a better more evident pop to this model increasing those shades would bring it out further. Again something to think about regard light theory!!!

  16. #176

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    I like the way the metalics turned out.

    If you get the Vallejo metalics, be sure to get the Air version. The metal particles seem to be finer and they are almost the right thickness right outbof the bottle.

  17. #177

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    KB - Thanks for the kind words and for the advice on Vallejo as well!
    BAM - I've taken some time to really think about your advice, BAM and I think the contrast on both the Retributor and the Blood Warrior could go higher. I'm going to try and really work on that area and learn how the lighting works on these models so I can take my painting even further. I forget sometimes that you're projects are never truly done until you say so. I will keep that in mind going forward as I try to improve my skills as much as I can. I also wanted to say, I really enjoyed your article in Figure Painter Magazine about how to decide what minis to enter in competition. It was really interesting and makes me want to enter in a painting competition again sometime. It always means a lot when you stop by and offer advice on this thread

    For those of you don't mind taking a second to vote, I have submitted the Retributor here on CMON. You can cast your vote here:

    http://www.coolminiornot.com/422157

  18. #178

    Default Thank you so much matey

    Glad to help bud!

  19. #179

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    Voted buddy, nice work
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