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Thread: Shrine's Mansions of madness WIP

  1. #1

    Default Shrine's Mansions of madness WIP

    So I started off painting my Mansion's minis with craft acrylic (I"m cheap) then tried to step it up to student artist acrylic and finally decided to take the plunge and bought the Army Painter Mega Paint Set. All the minis that have the plain brown base were painted with the artist acrylic (Master's Touch from Hobby Lobby). The ones with the brick style finish on the base were done with the Army Painter.

    Keep in mind I'm pretty new to this and the last time I painted was about 15 years ago when I had painted some Tyranids for 40k. I'm only painting to a table top quality as I don't have copious amounts of time to spend on each individual miniature as they are quite a few minis that needs to be painted.

    Anyways, let me know what you guys think and criticism is always welcome.

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  2. #2

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    Shrinekeeper,

    It is great to have another person painting MoM here on CMON! I'm excited to see how you get on with them. For me, the mold lines and bases lead to more work and frustration but if you can navigate those, you can paint some nice looking minis for a really fun game.

    This forum is a great place to learn and one thing I have learned on my journey is that spending the money to get the best tools and paint for the job is absolutely worth it. A good brush can definitely help when it comes to painting eyes for example. Army Painter is a paint I haven't used but I can see a difference in your painting from using them alone. The colors are richer and more diverse. I really like the hand painted stone on the bases too. I was too scared to try anything like that on my investigators and I think it looks nice.

    Do you have any of the expansions for MoM? Those are what I'm working my way through now. I'm looking forward to seeing what you paint next!

  3. #3

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    Yes I have all the expansions so I definitely have my work cut out. We're going on a little vacation at the end of the month but as soon as we get back I'll have a little money to spend and am going to look into get a hobby drill, files, green stuff, and some sculpting tools. Some of the bigger minis have a lot of gaps in them and I'm going to try and fill them best I can.

  4. #4

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    You certainly do! It has taken me months to paint the base game and one expansion and I'm still not close to having them all painted (maybe around 75% now). Those will be wise purchases and they will come in handy with all of the small issues these minis have. I want to paint the Dunwich Horror one of these days and the amount of gaps on that figure really requires the tools you're planning on getting.

  5. #5

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    Finished another mini and am working on a couple more. I hate the way her highlights turned out but I was so tired of fooling with her and figured it's just for tabletop play that I threw in the towel and called her done. I have some highlighting to do on the butler and paint his base and I'll be done with him as well. I'm really just ready to finish up this particular strip of miniatures as I fuddled up priming them and the paint dried before contact so they have this awful texture to them that's very apparent in the close ups.

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    Last edited by Shrinekeeper; 06-30-2017 at 04:26 PM.

  6. #6

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    Uggg. I just spent two hours trying to glaze/blend/layer (whatever the term is) to try and gradually build up to the highlights and still looks like poo. To me it doesn't look any better than the blue dress lady and I rushed that. Anyways criticism is beyond welcome.

  7. #7

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    Don't get frustrated. Your work looks great for tabletop minis, especially considering that like most board game minis they are not the greatest quality you are starting with. Your basic techniques appear very good, so as BAM says it just come down to putting a lot of painting hours in to get faster and better.

  8. #8

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    Trying to take some better photos with a "light box" and my DSLR camera, let me know what I can do to improve the quality of the photos?

    Also the lady with the brown dress, I tried to use a glazing technique on her but still not getting the results I want. A little advice would be welcome.
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  9. #9

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    Still working on the same girl. I swear the mini looks better IRL than it does on camera.
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  10. #10

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    That's often the way Shrine. Our eyes are extremely effective tools when compared to digital cameras.
    Check out some online advice on how to set your white balance, the background's looking a little blue there.

    Nice work on the mini. Get some stark highlights on that top to brighten it back up again.
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Octavian80's Avatar
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    Shrinekeeper, can you give us a rundown on how you are making and applying your glazes? This may help us with giving out some advice.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Octavian80 View Post
    Shrinekeeper, can you give us a rundown on how you are making and applying your glazes? This may help us with giving out some advice.
    I was just using a 50/50 ration of paint and Vallejo glaze medium. To apply I painted with the darkest color first and worked my way up from there making the browns lighter. First I used the base brown color than added a lighter brown to the mix, then a yellow then ended with a light grey color as the final mix.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Octavian80's Avatar
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    I would say dilute your glazing layers a lot more. Glazes are very very thin layers of paint. So if you think your paint is thin enough, thin it some more, haha. Glazes can be used for a few different applications; like tinting, making smooth blends, and binding layers together. You can still salvage your figure. Mix some intermediary colors that fall in between the hues of your layers, then thin them way down to create a glaze. Get some on your brush, but don't go straight to the model yet. If you thinned the paint enough, it is going to be pretty watery. Unload your brush on a towel so that there is only a little bit of paint left. Then apply it to the edges of the hard edged layers. This will soften the edge and create a smooth blend. Be conscious of the directionality of your brush strokes as well. The most pigment is deposited at the end of the stroke. So if you are working on the highlight layer, start your stroke in the shadow part and end it at or over the highlight line. I hope this makes sense.
    To see this in action I would suggest a few YouTube videos. Kujo Painting paints mostly with glazes and he has some video dedicated to glazes: Fat Glazing and Over Glazing. Check those out among some of his other ones and they will give you a good visual on how glazing can work.
    There is also the Ultramarines painting series by Painting Buddha that shows layering by glazes and how to soften the edges of layers.
    I hope my ramblings have helped. I'm no expert but I have learned a lot from these forums and watching videos. Good luck!

  14. #14

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    Hey shrine what light are you painting under do you use an ottlamp. My point is this when you paint directly under a 11 inch ottlamp which is usually positioned directly over the model the purpose of this lamp is there wil always show mistakes things like crude highlights or chalkiness etc. when you start to fix them and there are no more mistakes to the eye viewing the model under this lamp than it would look even more kick ass in person than ever before.
    so if you can paint your models under a device like this because the ultimate goal is to have the model appear cleanly painted under the lamp.

  15. #15

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    Another point I forgot to say about glazing is many times it takes a few applications of what I call the "back and fourth fight"! This means basically let's any you apply your final steps using glazes to the woman's dress. It may take 3-4 layers of applications of this step(obviously each needs to be dry before the next application of glazing) but it may take a bit of these to merge the colors and get them to appear smooth b/n highlight and shade. Now let's say you've got it smooth after 4 applications only to feel that it made the dress smooth but a bit darker than you had wanted.... well...this is the back and fourth fight cause now you need to go back to the highlights (glazing can be used on anything including glazing on your highlights in multiple coat to get these bright but smooth.) this may be another 3-4 apps of highlighting to get them bright again if it's too bright than you go back to the glazing like you did before your highlight glazing step and try 2 coats or so .my point is it's a back and fourth fight until you get it to where you want . How many apps are up to you as you decide where you want to stop when you like it. It's just a gauge not a law written in stone. Ide also condone looking at some other vids and tutorials it just might be 1) what I mention and 2) what you see on a video that may be the clarification needed for you to get these techniques down buddy.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Octavian80's Avatar
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    You're right, BAM, my bad, I forgot to mention the need for multiple applications of glazes to build up the layer. And the back and forth of reclaiming shadows or basecoats if you have overdone it. That's why we keep you around, to keep us accountable lol

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