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Thread: Chaotic Creations WIP

  1. #21

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    Thanks for the tips BloodAsmedium, really appreciate it... As you can see from my images I’m struggling a bit to get the paint down right... I’m hyper critical so when it starts looking a bit crappy I will just start again, I know I should push on and finish em but I know once you get those blemishes in the paint it’s virtually all over, no real way of fixing them.
    For me I’m feeling like I may be blowing it before I even start with the primer, no matter how thin the base coat and layers are, (my general mix is about 2:1:1:4 paint: flow improver: retarder: water) it seems to have a sort of crumble texture, which I can’t seem to get out no mater how many layers I lay down. I find this a hell of a lot worse with metal minis. You can see this in the orc I’ve started in this WIP (I will push on with this one till the end though). I’ve been using the rustoleum spray primer (tried white- horrible experience, but mainly use grey although the orc I sprayed many moons ago with gw chaos black). I’ve gone out today and brought some new gw spray primer hoping that may help. Just wondering do you top painters prime by the can or airbrush your minis?
    Oh and as I mentioned on your Thread, true metallic colours, I struggle big time with the thinning of these. I’ve tried quite a few Different thinning methods, it seems when I thin them down to where I use normal colours the flake seems to really seperate out, and seems to lay down a horrible first coat, not an even layer, which gets worse on subsequent layers. But hey I’m not sure if this is due to a crappy prime job. I’ve had plenty experience with spray paint (automotive spraying). But getting a smooth coat on a mini without sacrificing detail, that’s what I find tricky.
    Its frustrating as hell as I know what I should be doing but just can get it looking right... so in the meantime I guess I just keep practising until I get it working right... Being part of this forum is absolutely brilliant though as I’m learning heaps by looking into how other people do things. So I would love it if people criticise the hell out of my work and offer advise on what I should be doing, cause in the end you guys are the masters and I’m keen to learn more to get my techniques to that kind of level.

  2. #22

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    I used to use spray cans but I invested in an airbrush and never looked back. I tend to use Vallejo Grey polyurethane primer as I like to start off with a light base coat and go from there. The typhus Im painting was base coated with it. Name:  typhus base.jpg
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  3. #23

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    not got any more advice to add really as the other have it covered. will re iterate the importance of finishing minis. BAM advised me to keep on finishing as I was terrible for it, and in recent months I have been getting things finished and it certainly gets easier. the momentum builds. so keep at it.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaotic Creations View Post
    Thanks for the tips BloodAsmedium, really appreciate it... As you can see from my images I’m struggling a bit to get the paint down right... I’m hyper critical so when it starts looking a bit crappy I will just start again, I know I should push on and finish em but I know once you get those blemishes in the paint it’s virtually all over, no real way of fixing them.
    For me I’m feeling like I may be blowing it before I even start with the primer, no matter how thin the base coat and layers are, (my general mix is about 2:1:1:4 paint: flow improver: retarder: water) it seems to have a sort of crumble texture, which I can’t seem to get out no mater how many layers I lay down. I find this a hell of a lot worse with metal minis. You can see this in the orc I’ve started in this WIP (I will push on with this one till the end though). I’ve been using the rustoleum spray primer (tried white- horrible experience, but mainly use grey although the orc I sprayed many moons ago with gw chaos black). I’ve gone out today and brought some new gw spray primer hoping that may help. Just wondering do you top painters prime by the can or airbrush your minis?
    Oh and as I mentioned on your Thread, true metallic colours, I struggle big time with the thinning of these. I’ve tried quite a few Different thinning methods, it seems when I thin them down to where I use normal colours the flake seems to really seperate out, and seems to lay down a horrible first coat, not an even layer, which gets worse on subsequent layers. But hey I’m not sure if this is due to a crappy prime job. I’ve had plenty experience with spray paint (automotive spraying). But getting a smooth coat on a mini without sacrificing detail, that’s what I find tricky.
    Its frustrating as hell as I know what I should be doing but just can get it looking right... so in the meantime I guess I just keep practising until I get it working right... Being part of this forum is absolutely brilliant though as I’m learning heaps by looking into how other people do things. So I would love it if people criticise the hell out of my work and offer advise on what I should be doing, cause in the end you guys are the masters and I’m keen to learn more to get my techniques to that kind of level.
    I've only really picked up a brush again myself recently, so I'm very much at the stage your at. Paint consistency was always a challenge for me, but I've found it a lot easier since moving to a wet palette. I find I can't really come up with a general ratio as each paint I've got tends to be quite different. I transferred all my GW paints to dropper bottles and have added two plastic beads to each bottle to keep things well mixed. It seems to be working better for me this way.

    A lot of my paint is a fair few years old so can be a bit clunky, but I reckons the dropper bottles actually helps with that too. It's a ball ache transferring the paint over, but it's worth it.

    As far as undercoating goes, I moved over to an airbrush over spray cans, mostly for convienience and control. I do find it goes on very smoothly.

    Finishing models is also a problem I can understand as its something I suffer from. I've made a pact to myself to finish any model I start, as its the only way I think I'll improve.

    Perseverence is really important, but it definitely helps if you like the model you're trying to paint, I painted a Lord of the Rings Orc and it just wasn't too inspiring to work on.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by RogueSquirrel View Post
    I used to use spray cans but I invested in an airbrush and never looked back. I tend to use Vallejo Grey polyurethane primer as I like to start off with a light base coat and go from there. The typhus Im painting was base coated with it. Name:  typhus base.jpg
Views: 300
Size:  77.6 KB
    That’s what I’m talking about, a nice smooth coat to start with... I’ll muck around with this new spray I’ve got and see how it goes. Although an airbrush is going to be my next purchase I’m thinking...

  6. #26

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    Moving along with the green, slowly but surely, and very subtle transitions so happy days... starting to do my head in (seeing green everywhere) might just get the body to the mid tone and move to a different colour before starting the highlights...Name:  1512D775-45F9-46F8-A60E-58BDAAB8863B.jpeg
Views: 253
Size:  475.7 KB (once again sorry about the poor photo, will start taking some good ones when it gets closer to finished)

  7. #27

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    Hi there
    You rock that ork really hard, awesome job for such a long break. Really smooth transitions and even a nice freehand. I'm wainting for that better photo ;D

  8. #28

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    Great start on the Ork...and good on you for giving that freehand a whirl and making a tidy job of it.

    Some nice tonal work on this...would recommend very gradually introducing some deep red or purple super thin glazes to the green in places to add colour variation (knuckles, elbows, bags under eyes, ears, nose etc) be really sparing with this though, working up from an almost clear glaze. you can then rehighlight over the top with elbow creases etc.

    Definately recommend you resizing your photos a bit for here as well (800 pixels wide ish max), they will be far more forgiving. (having said that, pics this big can give you good indicators of wher you need to adjust things)

    Keep the updates coming!

  9. #29

    Default Great so far on the greenie.

    Embellishing on hairsters tips, which def will add even further interest to your model, I've taken the liberty to show some images of orc skin I've done. This is how I go about adding the thin glazes which add further contrast to the complemtery green colored skin. Have a look Name:  IMG_0936.JPG
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Size:  57.9 KBName:  IMG_0937.JPG
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  10. #30

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    Haha damn it, you guys picked up where I had Originally planned on going with this (with the red/brown tones to the skin). As I’ve been building up the colour I’ve been contemplating skipping that and sticking with green tones. Although after I painted the red to the bottom lip I figured someone would mention this, and this mini would be very lacking without it as you can probably see I’ve chosen a different tact to this paint job, starting the skin at close to the darkest skin tone and slowly layering up (I’m not sure if anyone does this ??? But wanted to have a go to advance my blending skills).
    Im pretty happy with the colour on the face to be about where my mid tone will be so once I’ve got all the skin areas to this I will start working on a little deeper shade and introducing some other colours. Will have to build them up out of the darkest shades, without getting that dirty effect when glazing over a dark shade..

    Any yeah your probably right about the photo size Hairster but I’m trying to keep them as crisp and close to how it actually looks as possible, not trying to hide anything, so people can try to give me tips/criticism where they can.

    Oh and BAM I have already browsed through your gallery and many others on here for a bit of inspiration and direction. But thanks for posting the pics here, bit easy for me to find now

    Once again thanks for the tips guys.... always very helpful

  11. #31

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    Name:  B2B9E4A1-8B2C-45FF-B89E-20C2807EA48A.jpeg
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Size:  368.1 KB A little bit more progress, just a few little (hardly noticeable) touch ups.... and thought I had better add the base coats to everything. The more little bits I do, the more I find how much is left to go haha...

    QUESTION: do you guys/girls feel I should introduce another colour to the loin cloth ??? If so what colour ??? Can’t really decide what to here... any input would be great...

  12. #32

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    personally I would not add a colour. i like that you have green as your main colour then then spots of its compliment red. any more red and it would look too much. having things fairly neutral with some dashed of colour is working well I think.

  13. #33

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    Looking good mate. I really like the face, the colour of the lips brings a lot of life to him. I'd echo the comments from Coyotebreaks regarding the loincloth. I'd think if it were a different colour, it might draw the eye away from the models face.

  14. #34

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    Yeah cool, was contemplating a kind of drab blue maybe, just to introduce another colour for a bit of variation.... have been looking at it thinking it’s very plain with all the cloths in dull brown tones... I do like it like that though, and with the splashes of red it does look a bit better... the purple colour on the chain sword I will shade down to virtually black once I finish the skull. Just thought I would put it out there and see what people think...
    im absolutely hanging out to get back into it, got a few more night shifts to go and then it’s painting time !!!

  15. #35

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    Looks really nice! If the cloth is too plane, You can always make it checked

  16. #36

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    Finally been able to squeeze in a decent painting session... I’ve concentrated on shading down everything and it’s now starting to get the feel I’ve envisioned for this little guy (which will hopefully work out well with the base I have in mind !!!)... still quite a ways to go to get all the colours to where I want them to be.
    To be totally honest I’m getting a bit disillusioned with painting this guy, as you are all probably the same with looking at it haha (let’s face it, it’s a standard GW orc boy, nothing special... but I will push on and hopefully try an make a basic mini look something special...

    once again thanks everyone for the encouragement and tolerating my slow progress, it’s really keeping me from throwing this guy in the half finished pile Name:  DD167808-17A1-477A-BA66-A93712215A37.jpeg
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Size:  340.5 KB Name:  2495F8E9-6021-44AD-AE7E-0E315383F0AE.jpeg
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  17. #37

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    There’s something some of us do called spot color triangles. It’s basically a triangle or / inverted triangle made by 3 points that have the spot colors. Eg you’ve chose the lips if I were painting this ide have had two other points like the top cuffs of his boots the same color. So ,stay with me now , from the two rescinded boots to the red lips makes a triangle. Now it’s not a written law it’s just another way to give options harmonizing color combos. Now triangles also do not have to be equilateral. Eg the chainsword the lips and his leather bracelet if it were red would also form a triangle. These are things about color theory one could or couldn’t use at this stage of your painting. When asked for feedback I try to give ideastes shaped how I learned and what helped. Great job Asia I do agree with coyote as well - it’s also great to hear him thinking in color theory terms as well!!!

  18. #38

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    And back to the green !!! Name:  8D1F7D0E-7354-4575-B1A0-7B5B9E1AC087.jpeg
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  19. #39

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    You mention having problems with watering down metallics. What brand of metallic paints do you use? I have owned several brands of metallics and disliked most of them for the same reasons. That was until I tried Vallejo Model Air metallics. They are beautifully thinned down already for airbrush use but can be painted on by brush just as easily. The metallic or mica component is ground so finely you can barely see it...if at all. Good to apply washes or further paint over. I ended up getting all the Air metallics I was so impressed with them. The only metallics I've used that I'd consider better are the Vally Alcohol metallics. Ground so fine they are like liquid metal. Only problem is they don't play well with other acrylics for obvious reasons. It's like painting over hard shiny plastic.

  20. #40

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    Hello bullfrog,
    well atm I’m only using citadel paints (ive been a long time.... really long time out of the hobby and thought I would stick to the devil I know I guess) so yeah haven’t tried any other brands as yet... and pretty much re-learning how to paint again!!!
    well it’s like a little light bulb has just lit up and I can’t believe I didn’t think of that myself, of course air metallics would work much better I think I might have to give that a whirl, you my friend are a genius !!! I guess I didn’t think of that cause air paints weren’t available when I used to paint (well not that I was aware of anyways..
    i was contemplating going down the NMM road if I couldn’t master metallics again, but there’s something about minis with true metallics that I really love...
    so thank you very much for you handy little tip, I will definitely be giving this a go...

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