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Thread: Chaotic Creations WIP

  1. #121

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    Hey CC, missed this due to xmas/new year stuff.

    Looking really good now he is sat in his new home with the cowering Guardsman below. Great stuff

  2. #122

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    Thank you all very much
    have hardly touched this guy since putting it together, been busy with other projects around the house... I have however managed to clean up my painting desk and get everything in order, ready to get back into it...
    i spent a bit of time practicing a few little techniques to give it the final touches (mostly blood effects), which should finish it off nicely

  3. #123

  4. #124

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    Well I’ve been playing around with skin tones trying to create a nice blend for a couple of kingdom death models I’ve had on my painting desk for a little bit now. Finding it difficult to get a combination I really like from the citadel range without a shitload of mixing of various colours (I’m really not a fan of their skin tone colours, for skin anyways). So I’ve finally bit the bullet and ordered myself the scale75 skin tone set, really looking forward to trying these out, as from what I hear they are really nice paints to work with!!! Was difficult to decide between this and the noturna set as they both look really nice... thinking I’m might have to get that set too in the near future aswell... hopefully the s75 set suffices for now

  5. #125

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    The s75 set is really nice, but be prepared to shake them til your arm falls off. I still base coat with gw Kislev flesh as I find it covers better in fewer coats but after that it's the s75 colours most of the time

  6. #126

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    I have most paint sets- but imho reaper master series paints1) are great for blending right out of the bottle,2) for example if they have I think 16 or so tones for flesh alone gives a lot of diversity and less mixing.

  7. #127

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    I paint with Reaper MS HD (Master series high density) I just find them great!! I have never tried the Scale75 paint but I got my eyes on the ink set for my metals. To glaze my metals I always used the Vallejo game colors inks but their dropper bottles always get clogged and also drips all the time, I end up wasting 1/2 of the inks.

  8. #128

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    Yessir TERO reaper kicks thy royal rump of a model!!!

  9. #129

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    Ah good to know... I haven’t really tried many brands as citadel was generally the only thing accessible to me back in the day, although I did try painting with jo sonja’s For a while which actually work pretty nice when you get the hang of them.. really looking forward to trying some new stuff... so reaper sounds like it may be the way to go then, I do like the look of a lot of the colours in various brands, so I’m guessing I’m going to end up with a mixed bag of brands pretty soon!!!

  10. #130

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    So nothing really new with my ork scene, just some weathering effects... by that I mean the dust settling on it from sitting on my desk I have done a few little bits but nothing to noticeable to show, I haven’t had much painting time as my backyard renovations are taking more of a priority atm... but I have been practicing quite a few techniques I will have to do to finish this guy off, thought I would test them out first instead of just jumping in and ruining the whole thing right at the end... considering it has been well over a decade since I’ve brought a mini to completion I think it’s better to be safe and test these things out first!!!

    in the meantime here’s some really sloppy paintworkName:  1435F3E7-B8BC-4803-BB47-A0C5A30F04B6.jpeg
Views: 206
Size:  720.0 KB Thought I would start another one of these with a totally different colour scheme to how I would normally paint them...I do love these old witch elves but unfortunately the casting is terrible and takes so many coats just to get a smooth start... I will however finish this little lass this time as I normally just paint these to practice blending a particular colour (I think I have painted and stripped this particular mini about 5 times in the past 3 months).

  11. #131

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    good idea triying things out first, as you say all be terrible to go wrong this far into the preceding.

  12. #132

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    So the progress on the witch elf continues... quite a quick paint job for this one as I’ve decided to finish it up for my nieces birthday which is a couple of weeks away!!! God I need to stop painting figures with such crappy casting, it really does your head in when trying to get a half way decent finish!!! At least I don’t have to concentrate on the finish all that much as this little girl ain’t that picky Name:  93C2ACF0-48B5-4B70-828D-99DD8CBF36BA.jpeg
Views: 177
Size:  295.3 KBThe paint work looks pretty shocking at the moment but I’m hoping a few glazes may clean everything up a little at the end...

  13. #133

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    She looks good cc . I approve and I’m sure the littlen will too. If you want to try something the line that divides the left and right abdominal area bring that shade color up a bit yes it’s a mark for delineating shading but being the recess it’s not that deep (which is a trick some of us use the deeper the recess the greater the shade) and being where talking bout the midsection you’ll start to learn the places to shade for male, female torsos in general as you go. So first make it a bit lighter maybe a step or two below the abs then you can glaze a gw real glaze and it should blend it in from there. The shade should really not be as diff from the ab area . try it out maybe on the next model or so.

  14. #134

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    Agree with bam, I'd worth that line in her belly, make it just a subtle shade imo, but she's coming along well

  15. #135

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    Thanks guys yeah your both spot on and I really value your tips as you both are very proficient at skin tones, personally I kind of struggle with a lot of the conventional skin tone techniques (especially feminine)!!! So I’ve been trying a kind of new thing (for me anyways) with skin tones... a little bit harder with this one as the casting is really pitted, probably should of paid a bit more attention to this before starting. But yeah I’ve laid down somewhat of a base colour then I kind of sketched in a deep redish shade and now I will work on lightening up the shade with the base colour and a subtle mix of light purples,blues and greens etc, keeping the consistency very thin and super translucent, trying to maintain a shade of the red beneath. I think/hope this may give a more kind of realistic feel to the skin ? Kind of like actually painting the skin over the muscle/blood ??? Sounds brilliant in theory right lol actually applying it, now that’s a different story... Name:  5C9F23BA-FDCC-47E1-9AA2-278E8907F56C.jpeg
Views: 153
Size:  391.0 KB I’ve done a couple of little tests with this and seems to turn out looking ok, but haven’t tried it over an entire figure and thought this mini could work out well for it... we will see how it goes??? This ain’t the best photo but hopefully you get the idea of where it’s sort of going???

  16. #136

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    Feminine skin is kind of my thing haha, I use mainly the scale 75 skin set but I do my base coat in GW Kislev flesh (I find it easier to get good coverage with that and it's similar to the s75 basic skin colour, just a touch lighter) I think the key to female skin is smoothness, they aren't often sculpted as super muscly like say a male barbarian or the chaos khorne guys, with that in mind I keep my shades relatively light and instead push the highlights up. Using the skin set it would be roughly basic skin,light skin and pale skin for the highlights, up to white on the highest points, for muscle shade I'd use a bit of the pink skin colour but very lightly so it's just about visible but still quite subtle. The actual shading from light source varies depends on the environment of the base, I use P3 thornwood green in cold environments which is a complete pain in the arse to blend, usually mix it with basic skin to sketch then try and glaze it smooth, for warmer shades I use the Indian and African shadow and sometimes down to gw rhinox hide

    If you don't have the fancy s75 set worry not, Indian and African shadows are roughly similar to rhinox hide + Kislev flesh in various amounts, and the highlights are something like Kislev flesh with screaming skull mix and up to white, you'd get a very similar result but I like to avoid having to mix paints as much as I can for consistency

    Most of that comes from experience with larger scale models, on something small like your witch elf I might not shade quite so much, I'd still use the same colour range but maybe stop at Indian shade instead of going right down

  17. #137

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    Skin is really looking nice. Especially the tummy.
    Any ideas how to base this mini? Or is the roundbase just the "working-base" and you are going to build something extra like for your orc?

  18. #138

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    @sicks- cheers mate, yeah the s75 set is in the post, really waiting with baited breath for its arrival... any day now!!! But still I will finish this gal with the citadels... so yeah skin tones, for me painting them to a basic level is not a real drama, looks good but I’m never satisfied with them... I see a lot of skin tones browsing through the galleries which I’m very impressed with, and trying to replicate those sorts of things is the challenge, subtlety introducing a range of colours to give it that very realistic look, that’s kind of where I’m at atm... heaps of practice and learning is all it’s going to take... I really appreciate the tips though, and I can assure you I have scrolled back through your WIP and studied a few of your pieces... I do like the way you paint skin, always turns out great...

    @Graishak- thanks mate it’s getting there, we’ll see if it turns out any good in the end... now the base, it won’t be anything too extravagant. As it’s a present for my niece and she’s kind of into a bit of goth sort of fantasy thing at the moment and also wanting to keep to the witch elf theme I was thinking this maybe. I will glue this 30mm (whatever size it is) base to a 50mm round base and put a ring of skulls around the edge of the smaller base, then slip up the figure a little (leaving the slotta on, not pinning) and break up some cork and glue it to the top of the 30mm base. With cracks between the pieces with kind of like channels, then use possibly UHU or something of the sorts to do a fluid effect effect flowing through the channels and pooling around the skulls on the bottom base??? I think with a bit of weathering of the skulls (possibly trying to copy BloodAsMedium’s skull weathering techniques ) and a bit of blood for the blood gods (gw) for the fluid to give it a glow of blood look it could turn out looking pretty cool??? That’s my thinking anyways, As with all my ideas, good in theory, but may not turn out as per plan

  19. #139

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    she's coming on nicely CC, better for toning down the shadows for sure.

  20. #140

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    Good to know I've been silently helping haha, practice is definitely a big part, the more you do it the better you'll get, I noticed that most models I like have at least some skin (even if it's just a head poking out of space marine armour) and metal, so I focused on learning blending techniques. (which basically applies to almost everything) and skin, I'm still not happy with my metal work but this year I hope to practice freehand and metals and hopefully improve on those. The s75 paints are really nice take a little getting used to and a lot of shaking but I think they're my favourite brand for most things

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