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Thread: Chaotic Creations WIP

  1. #161


    So I’ve immediately regretted going for a bad moon scheme instantly remembered how difficult it is to paint yellow over a black base... but it’s all good, just going to be a few more extra coats to get the coverage and will look a treat when finished ( I hope). Probably should of base coated these areas brown or something first, instead of straight to orange, oh well it’s slowly coming together... been making steady progress, just base coating everything first before I move on to the blending, takes a bit of time with thin coats but I feel having a smooth base will pay off in the end???Name:  D301752F-DA32-43E0-895E-57EC4E6EA865.jpeg
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Size:  746.8 KB This guy is a real pleasure to paint and I can’t wait to get to a point where I can start the freehand work (the little bad moon squiggles etc), I’m also hoping the purple cloth will work well to compliment the yellow armour, we will soon find out I guess

  2. #162


    Okay so I’m gonna solve this problem for you CC. These are the tricks you don’t know yet but we’re damn sure gonna help you along the way.
    QUESTION: how do I paint black over a yellow primer-
    ANSWER : after you’ve undercoatrd the whole model with black primer and It dries.YOU TAKE A BROWN or a yellow brown ( desert yellow or tau light ochre or balor brown. Use thesebase colors any one to coat the parts where yellow will be. When dry the yellow will be very easy to paint over thisbase color. No headaches , no mistake, no hard times - just A USER FRIENDLY WAY TO APPLY YELLOW OVER A BLACK UNDERCOAT.
    Last edited by BloodASmedium; 02-12-2018 at 10:54 AM.

  3. #163


    Cheers for the tip BAM,
    decided to steer away from a brown base coat first (Im aware it would have been easier to layer to yellow) as I’m glazing on the yellow in most parts and felt a brown could possibly de-saturate the yellow, and I really want the yellow to be intense. I decided on a bright orange undercoat, knowing it will take quite a few coats to get opaque, but I’m quite happy to persist with this because I want to leave a bit of this colour in the deep recesses to help with the shading and a bit of this colour showing through the yellow in places too... should turn out looking alright as it progresses.

  4. #164


    Like I always say the last and final call is by the artist. In the future you could keep in back of your mind the balor brown. It’s a light brown not a beige but a yellow brown. You know better than anyone what your after. These are just ideas we kick around.

  5. #165


    Dark skin is good for shading yellows.
    1. 'Painting is a companion with whom one may hope to walk a great part of life's journey.' W. Churchill
    Thank you for asking but I don't do commissions.

  6. #166


    @ten ball thanks for the tip, will have a bit of a play around with this, going to be a bit of an experiment pushing the tonal range without going over the top.

    @BAM, cheers mate, always value your input, will probably be bombarding you with questions once I start getting into the battle damage and weathering as your the go to guy for that kind of thing!!!

    well I’ve finally got all my base colours down and managed to keep a smooth consistency on all, so time to move on to the fun stuff having been heavily inspired by the amazing freehand work some of the guys on here have produced as late (hairster, lone lemming, 10 ball etc) but more so the master of micro freehand Joce (MetalASmedium) I have decided to start on a small little bad moon on the front of the ammo barrel, clip or whatever it’s technical name is??? Felt this figure needs a few bad moon icons as it’s just a generic ork sculpt, and this seems like a fitting place for one... I’ve just sketched in the outline so far, hopefully it turns out how I plan, god this thing is small, going to be pushing the limits of my already raggered eyesight Name:  60A22BEF-7994-452F-B62C-C0C401445224.jpeg
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Size:  472.5 KBapologies for the poor photograph of my headless ork

  7. #167


    good stuff CC, looking to forward to seeing this progress

  8. #168

  9. #169


    Nicely achieved smoothness. It should be easy now to do the rest of the models more advanced steps. A dark flesh or a chestnut brown is what most use as far as shading and deepening of the yellow colours. GWs dark flesh,chestnut ink , ruddy leather/chestnut brown, mahogany brown from reaper. Name:  D3497B61-7E52-4FD5-A38B-6FB5ABC6C06A.jpeg
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Size:  152.7 KBName:  E3C23B75-BFFD-49F6-B3D5-DAC56FBB27CB.jpeg
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Size:  27.8 KBName:  1B81444E-A43D-4368-AEF3-1C174F0C35F1.jpeg
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Size:  35.4 KB These are a variety of ways and intensity how chestnut brown can be used not just as a shade for yellows but as the basis of chills and weathering along with battle damaged effects.
    btw your Color choice used and immediately pertains to the first layer of contrast1) alternating dark/ light colours GIVES THE VIEWER IMMEDIATE READABILITY OF THE MODEL. IOW The viewers Eye can discern in a first glance where each part ends and where another begins.(ex darker green hand and arm Serpe rated by the lighter yellows and greys.) great start. Perfecto !!!!!
    Last edited by BloodASmedium; Yesterday at 12:11 PM.

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