Eki's WIPs - finally got the gumption to post something - Page 30
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Thread: Eki's WIPs - finally got the gumption to post something

  1. #581


    A little update on the Santa Gobbo (kinda crappy photos though, sorry)
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  2. #582


    I really like how the gobbo's coat is turning out! The way you've highlighted and shaded it really gives the sense of slightly worn red leather. It's coming along quite nicely!

    WIP Thread // Instagram
    Photo-Taking Input?

    "I wonder if there's beer on the sun."

    - Zap Rowsdower

  3. #583

  4. #584


    Thanks Rowww and Gorb. Here is a little update again (didn't get much time this week) so just a little more work on the head and mostly just playing with glazes on the jacket. Also started on the base a little bit more
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    Decided to go with a green "toy bag" for now

  5. #585


    Nice shading on the cloak - coming along good.
    So, there's good chance to finish this little buddy prior to X-mas eve.
    Ho Ho Ho!

  6. #586


    Thanks Graishak. Yeah, will probably have the figure painted up by then, just not the full design I wanted to do. I am testing some of the GW snow on a base and put in some water for a couple of days to see what happens to it (I varnished one side with GW gloss varnish) and left the other as is from the pot. I will put up some photos a little later, but what I have noticed is that the part I gloss varnished looks milky under the water

  7. #587


    Minor update of painting on the base
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    As for the snow I was testing, this is what I meant by the 'Ardcoat looks milky under water (I only did the one side). I just used the snow effect without the gloss varnish on the other side to see if it would be affected by the water. So far sitting in the water for over a day and doesn't look like either side has issues, but will take out tomorrow to see if either or both sides will move after being soaked which means I will really have to look for a different way to protect it.
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  8. #588


    Interesting experiment. As far as I know, once acrylics have dried they should be waterproof, ie. they shouldn't reactivate.
    The only exception is if they aren't completely dry. This might be the problem in the case with the 'ardcoat you mention - if it isn't completely dry the water might interact with it. But I haven't tried this so...

    I'm super curious to see how this turns out!

  9. #589


    Gorb, yeah, that could have been the issue with the 'ardcoat. I think I left it to dry overnight though so not completely sure. I do know that once I take it out of the water and it dries off the ardcoat is no longer milky looking. I think I will just use the GW snow and let it sit for several days to dry before filling the snow globe with water. It does look like the side I left untreated with gloss still took on a slightly glossy sheen, but not sure if it is just the water still on it (just emptied the cup before the following picture) so it might just be the water beaded up on it still. Will let you know tomorrow after it dries more. Other than that though, the "un-glossed" side seems to have held up fine.
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    And since you brought up that you believe acrylics shouldn't react with water...
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    This guy has been sitting around for months so should be plenty dry by now. Only issue is if the white metal reacts with water as I didn't prime the tab at the bottom, but I will probably only leave it in the water for a day or three so shouldn't oxidize by then (I hope)

  10. #590


    While I wait for the figure to soak in water....here is an update on the base
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    and finally bought myself a new toy
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  11. #591


    The jacket looks great! It's going to be a very fun mini.
    hehe, have fun with your airbrush, it's a very usefull tool

  12. #592


    Thanks Kallfa. Yeah I hope it is useful, never actually used one before so figure there is going to be a bit of a learning curve - basically I will screw all my paint jobs up until I take a hammer to the compressor and go back to brush
    Actually glad I took the photo of the base, just realized there were a couple grenades I missed spots on that I didn't see when I was painting them.

  13. #593


    lol I'm sure your compressor will consent to such a diplomatic resolution.
    Airbrush isn't easy indeed, I'm learning as well. I found that the bases is a good training support to get more acquainted with the tool, without taking too much risks. Using a diluant isn't an option btw, it's a game changer .
    About your grenades, taking photo is usually a good way to take a step back and to see what's wrong (says the guy who didn't notice it, I think I was quite focused on your compressor because mine is very noisy, how is yours?)

  14. #594


    love the reds on the gob bud... coming along great!! an airbrush is a wonderful hobby investment!! yes there is a learning curve, but opens up a world of new possibilities. a few tips for you- inks are your friend through the airbrush, easy to use and spray and don't really need to be diluted. as kallfa stated, get flow improver. you NEED it for any non-airbrush acrylic and helps a lot for some that are supposed to be meant for the airbrush. Pressure- low pressure for thin stuff and close up work, increase pressure for thick paint or farther away work. the best analogy is fat kids trying to get through a door, you either need to push harder or thin them out. needle sizes- smaller the needle/nozzle combo, the tighter the spray pattern, works like the choke system on a shotgun if you're familiar. smaller needles are also more delicate and will bend easier. good all around size for a first brush is like a .3 to .35 depending on manufacturer, you can do some detail work and base coat with that. this is a big one- learn to backflush, huuuuge help to clean and mix paint. also, buy a cheap spray bottle and fill it with Iso alcohol, works better than 90% of commercial air brush cleaners and a lot cheaper. the spray from the bottle will help you loosen up paint in the bottom of the cup, then backflush, pour into a dump cup***** not spray through, and repeat the process to clean until almost ALL the color is gone, and in between colors. then you can spray the alcohol through the nozzle a couple times till it comes out clear. this will minimize how much you need to break the brush down for full cleaning sessions. 90% of the time when the brush acts up its because its dirty or not put back together right. Also, don't backflush and spray the fluid back through the nozzle when cleaning, the backflush loosens debris and if you spray it back through it'll clog- thats why u use a dump cup. its ok to back flush to mix paint and thinner in the cup then spray as long as you do the cleaning process first... Last recommendation- take a class for it. I can't recommend CK studios enough for airbrushing, if theres one in the area or at a con jump on it, they're the bomb for teaching airbrushing. I know its a lot, but those are all the things I wish I had known right off the bat when I started, and should make your life easier.

    ahhhh last thing I promise- if your compressor or brush DOES NOT HAVE a pressure regulator, go buy a MAC valve. its a little knob that screws on between the brush and hose, and you can use it to adjust pressure. Iwata and Grex both make em, and cost like $20. it might say "only for blah blah brush" and thats not true, it'll fit any size standard airbrush coupling. except badger since they had to be weird and make all their shit a different size. Its not as good as a true regulator, but I won't airbrush without mine unless I'm just doing bases or varnishing.

  15. #595


    @Kallfa, honestly I think the one I got is pretty quite at least to me (but I don't really have any experience to say if it is better than some others). It was nice having the tank as I tested it for leaks since it made no noise until the tank needed to refill. Thank you for the tip about using a dilutant with the paints. The compressor I got is a 110-120v so it won't work overseas unless you have a power converter (I think). Don't worry about missing the spots on the grenades (I did too) they were just small spots like the top of the two grenades on left side of picture.

    @Sik, thanks for all the tips. Unfortunately I don't think CK studios will be around here again until next NOVA, but will probably take a class with them. In the meantime, I will probably watch some YT videos to see what is what. I am guessing that I do have a regulator on it (the top of the water trap is a knob that rotates so I assume that is the regulator, but I don't really know how to use it right now). Right now I have an Iwata Neo and I believe it is .35 so I figure that should work for me for now and I already have some Airbrush Flow Improver (actually used it to thin paints for the brush and it works really well). Yeah, I want to finish up the Red Gobbo this weekend since they have a Painting competition (I think) for it at the local GW store on the 28th.

  16. #596


    Coming along nicely ekipage! I didn't realise those were grenades, that is very funny
    How is the guy handling the drink? Did any paint react to being immersed?

    Congratulations on getting the airbrush.

    Sik and Kallfa have already given you heaps of awesome advice.

    If I may chip in a couple of extra comments from a noob?

    1) I really enjoy mine, and use it a lot for priming, basecoating and sealing. Very useful for larger models or vehicles! I haven't done any detail stuff yet, that will take some time before I get the confidence and technique, especially with regards to thinning the paint and setting the right air pressure.

    2) However, masking is super easy with tape and silly putty, or even just holding up a piece of card in front of the masked area.
    That way you can easily blend colors without having to paint very neatly.

    3) Inks are awesome though an airbrush. I have some FW inks. Here is my pro-tip though: put a little steel ball inside the ink bottle, and use it to shake up the ink properly before use. The FW inks contain a very fine pigment, but it settles very hard into the bottom of the bottle, and without proper agitation you will just not get anything done. Ask me how I know

    @Sik: I think the black knob on the outlet of ekipage's compressor regulates the pressure. Mine is very similar (although it is an off-brand one). I did buy a MAC valve though, which does make adjustments easier.

  17. #597


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    I actually rubbed this with the paper towel and with a finger so it looks like the paint holds up (at least for about 2 or so days). I think I will be fine as long as I let the figure dry completely before trying to put it in the snow globe. I am going to have to see how it looks though, or maybe throw the above figure in as a test to see if adding the glycerin, isopropyl alcohol and the snow effect will cause any damage to the figure. From reading up on the snow globes the glycerin is to help the "snow" fall slower and the isopropyl alcohol is to help keep the water from clouding up and it is supposed to just be a couple of drops. So I don't think I will have the Red Gobbo in the snow globe by Christmas, but hopefully at least have it painted up for the GW store comp (if they are still holding it) on the 28th.
    Also, thanks for the extra tips. Probably won't actually get to trying the AB until at least next week when I have time off.

  18. #598


    Glad to see your test went well!
    Interesting about the glycerin and alcohol. Keep in mind alcohol will strip almost all paint, although a couple of drops should not do any harm like you say.
    Is it supposed to sterilize the water? I guess to be ultra safe you could use filtered water...

  19. #599


    Quote Originally Posted by gorb View Post
    Interesting about the glycerin and alcohol. Keep in mind alcohol will strip almost all paint, although a couple of drops should not do any harm like you say.
    Is it supposed to sterilize the water? I guess to be ultra safe you could use filtered water...
    Yeah, all the sites I found for them basically recommended the use of Distilled water and the glycerin and about half recommended adding a couple drops of Isopropyl to it to help keep the water from going cloudy over time. So yeah, the alcohol is basically to sterilizing the water and probably help with whatever item you put in as that might be less "clean" than the distilled water.

  20. #600


    So a little more work here and there on the Red Gobbo (sorry about some of the crappy photos)
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