Which Glue for GW minis and clear bases ?
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Thread: Which Glue for GW minis and clear bases ?

  1. #1

    Default Which Glue for GW minis and clear bases ?

    Hi guys, a few questions on Glues. I have some clear bases for my GW minis (Silver Tower stuff) and I am not sure I am using the right glues.

    I have these bases : https://secureshop.co.uk/epages/9500...ear_TerraBases

    Yesterday I was looking at some of the minis and they just fell off the bases, despite being glued to them for a few days / weeks.

    Under the feet it was just a layer of clear glue stuck under the feets (like 1mm thick) as it fell off the clear base. No glue was visible on the base anymore as it was all jsut stuck to the minis' feet.

    I first tried this glue : Super Glue from Gorilla : http://amazon.com/dp/B00OAAUAX8, then I also tried this Pattex Modelling Glue on other models: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004X62JIS.

    Should I have used a Plastic Cement type glue instead ?

    Was thinking of trying this : amazon.com/dp/B000KJPUL0

    What should I do to make sure my minis stick to their clear bases ?

    I also have Raging Heroes resin minis, do they need the same plastic cement glue ? When I assembled the model with either super glue or pattex it took forever to hold the pieces together. I would have to hold the pieces in place for 2-3 minutes without moving and then place them super gently on the table and wait 3-4 hours for it to finally hold. Even after 20 minutes if I barely touched the parts everything would fall off...

    Ragning heroes sent me a youtube link showing that they used a spray to make the bond happen in like 2 seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKjrGxyS72w
    They use an activator for cyanoacrylate glue. Is this really necessary it I have Plastic cement glue instead?

    So many questions just to glue stuff...


  2. #2


    normally plastic glue / plastic cement should be used on GW plastics. The revell is a great product for it.
    Also worth trying out the "Tamiya extra Thin cement (fast)". It dries VERY fast, melts plastic together like every other cement. Needs a few minutes until the join is solid though.

    Resin: superglue. Plastic cement won't work. Accelerator helps for drying,

    but if a superglue takes too long to dry and figures fall apart, it's most likely because:
    - mould release agent preventing the glue (wash them before assembly)
    - surfaces too smooth (rough the surfaces up with a few cuts from Xacto or use a bit of rough sandpaper)
    - too much glue used (for superglue less is more, the more glue you use, the worse it's hold will be)
    Most likely all 3 at once.

    +using baking soda can make superglue joins stronger, but needs a bit of practice to use effectively.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  3. #3


    perfect, thanks for the tips.

    I will order the revell plastic cement glue then.

    would you recommend superglue activator ?

    Silly question, how can you tell if a model is resin or plastic ?

    I think I forgot to wash the resin raging heroes before glueing and used too much glue.

  4. #4


    sorry, but so far I needed no activator, so I don't have one or experience with one.

    plastic vs resin... hard question, as:
    - the plastic glue is not usable on all types of plastic, yes for the one GW uses, no for example on quite a few WW2 models or PVC.
    - chemically plastic is resin, the question is just the type

    easiest if it's new: if it's on a sprue it's most likely be a type where plastic glue works.

    Raging heroes: if it didn't bond correctly, there is a good chance, that you can remove it completely. Maybe with a bit of help from a fridge (the freezer part, cold makes superglue brittle), but can be done.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  5. #5


    is the Pattex glue I have actually a plastic cement glue ? it says 'plastic' all over the box but I have never noticed the actual plastic parts of my minis 'melting' or anything.

  6. #6


    Seems the Revel glue worked better than any previous ones.

    I scrapped the past glue, made tons of small cuts on the base of the figurine to improve the melting and attaching. I should have mabe done the same to the acrylic base but forgot about it.

    Now the plastic under the base is completely melted and flat.

    Let's see how long this bond stays now...

  7. #7


    Scratch both surfaces which have to be glued....this should upgrade the adesive properties of glue (superglue). Then pins with thin steel wire and some superglue (just a little bit). Use a minidrill to make the hole, with a 0,8-0,9 mm drill bit

  8. #8


    yes, i'll try that for my next clear base glueing.

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