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Thread: PØs projects.

  1. #1

    Default PØs projects.

    I had a work log earlier, but can't seem to find it. So figured I'd post a new one, and be a bit more active here

    There are many far better painters than me in here, and I'd greatly appreciate advice. My main goal in the hobby is to simply get better. The way I do this is to read a lot on how to do stuff, watch videos and look at other, better painters' minis. And obviously I just try to paint a lot.

    Some of the minis under here I've spent a lot of time on (like the orruk) and others are quicker projects. Some will be pieces where I try out new techniques on different areas. I'll try to write a bit about each piece and what I've done.

    I have to sort some proper photo area as well. Well, the pics are at least honest, if not always the most flattering.


    Orruk Megaboss
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/420749
    The first entry is a mini I just recently finished (was almost finished for ages). I added some of the white patterns to make it a bit more interesting. As I write in the image description in the link above, I do think this is some of my best work to date. I see it looks a bit flat due to the lighting maybe from the front at least. I'll update the photos here of him later.

    The black armour is black highlighted with metallics. It looks decent irl, but not as good as the time it took to do reflects. Conclusion: I probably won't do that method again.

    I'm happy with the red and the skin on the mini though. If I am to paint another one I'll probably reverse the scheme to some extent. Mostly red armour and maybe a couple of panels black. I think it's abaddon black, vallejo game air steel or something (like leadbelcher), then vallejo game air silver final highlights.

    The red is is basecoated khorne red, then shaded with dark sea blue (vallejo model colour, not model air, they're not the same colour). Then I added vallejo model colour ivory to highlight it. Finally pure ivory on the edges.

    The skin was basecoated castellan green, then highlighted with loren forest and straken green (I'm not sure which is brighter, but in that order), then further highlighted with the old gw rotting flesh. I think Nurgling green + white will produce a similar tone. Also I think vallejo game colour has an equivalent. Then it was shaded with vallejo model air tank brown (a red brown, I think the old scorched brown is similar. Doombull brown / rhinox hide mix should also look much the same). Then I glazed bloodletter to get the red tones on the elbows and around the mouth.

    The skull was Rakarth flesh, agrax earthshade to see the volumes. Then I stippled rakarth flesh and dryad bark to achieve most of the colour, then very thinned white stippled on as highlights.

    Name:  Orruk finished resize.jpg
Views: 131
Size:  1.91 MB


    Death guard
    I bought the dark imperium box, since it had a lot of the new space marines. I'm not really a collector of death guard, but them being in the box didn't hurt, as I think they look amazing. The stuff I have here is what I've finished of it thus far.

    The minis are undercoated with the white spray primer from gw. Then I've washed the entire minis with seraphim sepia. Then reapplied thinned white to the panels in a few layers until I reached something looking actually white again, with some transitions towards the recesses. Then agrax earth shade recess shade, and athonian camoshade glazes in areas to make it look "rotten".

    The skin of the bloat drone is the old tallarn flesh foundation paint base. Then shaded with reikland fleshshade, then I've gradually reapplied tallarn flesh. Then added white to the tallarn flesh for highlights. After this I've glazed over druchii violet to give it a more purplish tint. Around the pustules I've used carroburgh crimson.

    The metals are leadbelcher -> agrax earthshade -> vallejo game air silver stippled on and edge highlighted. Then vallejo rust wash over some areas, also vallejo rust effects in some areas. Then I've used troll slayer orange thinned down to paint rust streaks, and then some reapplication of silver stippling. This is quicker than the number of steps indicate, as a lot of it is fairly rough work.

    Bloat drone:
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/420744
    Name:  Bloat drone.jpg
Views: 132
Size:  1.03 MB

    Death guard:
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/420765
    Name:  Death guard 1 and 2.jpg
Views: 130
Size:  1.01 MB


    Crimson fists:
    This is my main army in 40k, I have quite a lot of these painted up, but the latest entries are all from the dark imperium box.

    I start priming them with black. Then I airbrush vallejo game air midnight blue all over, then a zenithal spray of vallejo game air ultramarine blue to get a 2-toned basecoat. Then I wash with drakenhof nightshade, and try to clean up so it doesn't stain the armour too much. Then I pin wash with a thinned abaddon black in the deep recesses. After this I clean up where i did get stains with ultramarine blue, then do some edge highlights with ultramarine blue and white added in.

    The red is khorne red -> nuln oil -> khorne red -> evil sunz scarlet -> wild rider red -> sometimes add lugganath orange to wild rider red.

    Ancient:

    Haven't uploaded this one as an image entry yet. So no url. I'm going to take new photos of him from the rear as well (he has some more freehand on his back, as well as the icon on his shoulderpad.
    Name:  Ancient front resize.jpg
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    Lieutenant:
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/420766
    Name:  Lieutenant resize.jpg
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Size:  975.0 KB

    Hellblasters:
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/420751
    Name:  Hellblasters resize.jpg
Views: 131
Size:  1.70 MB


    I also have a bunch of skitarii done and I'm working on more crimson fists, + the goliath gang. I've also been working on the shadespire core set, and the stormcasts are done. Can upload those as well.
    Attached Images Attached Images                  
    Last edited by Ahnoll; 12-08-2017 at 12:02 AM. Reason: Updated the photos and added URLs.

  2. #2

    Default

    Real nice range and quality work
    1. 'Painting is a companion with whom one may hope to walk a great part of life's journey.' W. Churchill
    Thank you for asking but I don't do commissions.

  3. #3

    Default Skitarii

    Thanks a lot Not as good as some of your stuff though!


    But I mentioned skitarii. I've painted a start collecting box and an enginseer.


    Tech-priest Dominus:

    Not much to say about this one. Was relatively time consuming simply because it has so many small details. The paintjob itself was fairly straight forward. Didn't really try out anything new on him.

    Name:  Dominus front.JPG
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Size:  502.6 KBName:  Dominus back.JPG
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    Dunecrawler:

    Did try some new stuff here. AK-interactive streaking grime and to use try to blend in transfers.

    The yellow:
    1. Airbrush mournfang brown, then averland sunset, then I added whites to averland sunset to highlight.
    2. Sealed with satin varnish.
    3. Sprayed streaking grime all over the mini and let it dry. Once dry I wiped it off with a q-tip and white spirit, leaving it in the recesses, and some other areas to let it look dirty.
    4. Used a sponge to apply rhinox hide for paint chips. I then highlighted the edges with dorn yellow (it's quite weak pigment, so acts almost as a glaze), and also around some of the chips.
    5. Applied transfers. Used decal medium from vallejo to make it "sit" (I think it's similar to microsol). Glazed over averland sunset and some vmc tank brown to make them blend in. Also sponged on some more rhinox hide.


    In retrospect I should have used the transfer after the yellows were sprayed on, then done varnished, then all the weathering. I expect it would have looked exactly the same, but it would probably have required a few less steps to blend them in.

    Name:  Dunecrawler front.JPG
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Size:  536.8 KBName:  Dunecrawler back.JPG
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    Rangers:
    Used transfers for the icons, as I think they look pretty good. Apart from that there's nothing special about the paint jobs, except they were far more time consuming to paint than I anticipated due to all the details.

    And yea, I used the other half of the rhino door from the dunecrawler base for one of the bases. Figured that would tie them together further

    Name:  Rangers front.JPG
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Size:  1.37 MBName:  Rangers back.JPG
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Size:  1.18 MB


    Vanguard:

    Same as with the rangers. I really like these skitarii minis with all the details, but it does make them time consuming to paint...
    Name:  Vanguard front.JPG
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Size:  1.65 MBName:  Vanguard back.JPG
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Size:  1.05 MB


    Enginseer:

    The old metal version. The paintjob was fairly quick, and it's just meant to fit into the army. Sprayed the entire mini with vallejo airbrush metallics, then washed with nuln oil gloss before I painted the rest. Saved me some time I think.

    Name:  Enginseer front.JPG
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Size:  476.6 KBName:  Enginseer back.JPG
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Size:  388.3 KBName:  Enginseer side.JPG
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    I see some of my photos are super zoomed in on my computer. As I mentioned, not the most flattering, but at least they're honest...

  4. #4

    Default Painting the skitarii

    A colour guide and techniques used:

    I basecoat all main areas first, then wash the entire mini with agrax eartshade. This saves some time I think. I usually do apply two thin coats of the basecoat, though it's not always needed when I wash then reapply the basecoat the way I do here anyway. I think I just apply the second thin basecoat in the areas where I see it's very needed due to this. This save some time as well.

    Grey cloth:
    1. Basecoat adeptus battlegrey
    2. shade agrax earthshade
    3. reapply basecoat of adeptus battlegrey. I do this with a thinned version of it which I feather out towards the recesses so I leave a darker shade. It's relatively quick and provides an acceptaby smooth finish.
    4. Adeptus battle grey and vallejo model colour ivory mix in 1:1 ratio (I think flayed one flesh is very similar). Applied roughly where the highlights will be to sketch the highlights.
    5. Adeptus battlegrey thinned and fat glazed on the transitions between the highlight sketches and base.
    6. Thinned vmc ivory as final highlight. Applied in short streaks (very quick to do) along the bottom edges so the cloak looks a bit frayed.


    Yellow:
    1. Averland sunset basecoat
    2. Agrax Earthshade. I just wash all over, though you can recess shade i suppose. In that case you can skip step 3.
    3. Averland sunset reapplied. A bit like I did with the cloth, but flatter.
    4. 1:1 mix averland sunset vmc ivory
    5. edge highlight ivory.
    6. Sometimes I glaze some vallejo model air tank brown into the recesses to give more colour. I'm not sure I did here. But I did on the dominus.


    Off-white cloth:
    1. Zhandri dust basecoat
    2. Agrax eartshade
    3. Zhandri dust reapplied (same way as with the grey)
    4. Screaming skull highlights, also feathering to make it smooth.
    5. VMC ivory as final highlight (or flayed one flesh)


    Metal:
    1. Vallejo game air chainmail (you can use leadbelcher, they look virtually the same)
    2. Agrax eartshade
    3. Vallejo game air silver. It's mainly edge highlighting with this, though I feather it out some to avoid having to redo the first step after the wash.

    OSL:
    This is the way I did it on the vanguard, rangers and the enginseer, but not on the dominus (that method is more time consuming, though it looks virtually the same...). The various osl objects I've painted with white first. Thinned ceramite white is a favourite for me when painting details like this, as it flows easily when you thin it down enough, and it still covers great. So:
    1. Thinned ceramite white all over the source
    2. on the red lights I paint the red gw gem paint on top. On the others I just paint with vallejo game inks.
    3. Then I use the appropriate ink (vallejo game ink) and glaze it around the source until I'm happy.

    And that's it really. the way of doing osl with just glazing the light colour over the finished area is something i stole from Ben Komets. Sometimes you need to glaze different colours, but it's quite easy and fast. The eyes on the hellblasters are done like this as well except with glazes of scorpion green (old gw paint) and wild rider red.

    For display pieces I'd do it with more colours than just the one glaze, but this allows me to do it to regular infantry models as well without wanting to kill myself with the time it takes.



    Plasma weapon (same way on the hellblasters):
    1. Temple guard blue, 2 coats.
    2. Baharroth blue highlight. I really don't like this paint, it covers like crap and it doesn't really feel like a natural progression from any of the other gw blues. I think I'll just add white to the basecoat in the future.
    3. Vallejo game colour dead white. I think white scar is +- the same final highlights.
    4. Mix of vallejo game inks blue and green and use it as a wash in the recesses.

  5. #5

    Default

    Added URLs to the main post and changed some images (resized and cropped).

    For the skitarii the urls are:

    Tech-priest Dominus: http://www.coolminiornot.com/420747

    Enginseer: http://www.coolminiornot.com/420757

    Vanguards and rangers: http://www.coolminiornot.com/420752

    Dunecrawler: http://www.coolminiornot.com/420748

    If you like anything please give a vote

    I'll try to keep up with adding stuff regularly here, to avoid the thread being lost in the warp.

  6. #6

    Default

    Welcome to the mad house. You have some nice looking minis and a great grasp on making nicely painted minis.

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks a lot

    Well I'm trying to learn at least. I just got back to the hobby after a 7-8 year hiatus a bit over a year ago. So trying to paint as much as possible and try out new techniques whenever I can.

    I need to sort some way of getting better photos though. While they do show off how it's painted they're not very flattering.

  8. #8

    Default

    I took some new photos of the megaboss, tried to fix some better lighting and backdrop to see if it makes a difference. I think it does look better, but I think i need a second light source at least. Maybe I should just buy a photo box or something for it...

    Name:  Orruk new photo resize.jpg
Views: 57
Size:  1.16 MB

  9. #9

    Default

    very nice painting in the this thread, good stuff.

  10. #10

    Default

    Thanks

    Putting up a wip then. This old forgeworld model I've had for ages. part of the axe was broken, so the axehead is only on one side. Not sure if I'll keep it like that, or make the other half out of plasticard and glue on.

    The painting though:
    The blue grey I use the fang, shade from underneath with dark sea blue (vallejo model colour), and recesses from above with tank brown. Highlights are just mixed in vallejo model colour ivory. If I was to start again I'd use an actual fixed colour as the final highlight colour, so I wouldn't have to mix as much as I do now. It's a bit hard to get a consistent brightness on the final highlights when I want the colour to be like "somewhere" up there. It works though, just a bit of a hassle. Also some deep recesses are shaded with black.

    Name:  Grey knight wip1.jpg
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