Critique My Airbrush Buying List
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Thread: Critique My Airbrush Buying List

  1. #1

    Question Critique My Airbrush Buying List

    I have been painting for about a year. Blood Rage, Star Wars Assault etc.

    I’d like to begin using an airbrush. Initially for zenithal priming.

    Below is a proposed buying list to get me started.

    please make suggestion on how I can improve it, add to it, delete items etc.

    thanks!

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  2. #2

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    could you add a magnifying glass too, pic is small..

    zooming in:
    - right side is ok, all usable and good
    - left side:
    -- compressor looks ok, it has a tank, regulator, m.trap too.
    -- air hose: ok, normally the compressor has one too, so may or may not be needed. Even if not a spare extra won't matter.
    -- cleaning kit looks also ok. You will use it 99% of the time as an AB holder. I need the cleaning brushes maybe once a month or two. With the Vallejo cleaning fluid(loves dissolving anything acrylic) and cleaning during color change/when done for the session is normally enough
    -- AB: hmm, I see that a lot of people start with this, but that may not be the best option as if you get a better one you'll have to relearn quite a bit. So if you think you'll use it enough then maybe a HP-BP HI Performance Plus (or even a CM-C2 altough that could be overkill) would be better. The HP-C+ you chose is great for large areas and large figures, but if you invest in AB, then better some that you can do smaller details too.
    If you KNOW you'll mostly do primer/basecoat/preshade/vehicles/large figures then the HP-C+ is ok or I'd even consider going cheaper for a badger 105.

    What I miss:
    -- quick change adapter: makes switches between AB-s (or just removing the AB for cleaning) really easy.
    -- I'd add a REALLY CHEAP noname chinese AB from ebay(for a max price of 10-15USD). Only for Primer/Varnish work (could also used for basecoating terrain), basically anything where you don't need precision and could be harsh on the AB.
    -- spare nozzle and needles, at least 1, better 2. (also if possible(the AB can handle it) alternate sizes) .So for example if the AB comes with a .2mm nozzle and needle, then 2 spare .2mm-s and a .5mm nozzle+needle (and maybe a .3mm too).

    -- if you choose the Iwata a shop near you where you could buy replacement parts / that do repairs (not really a problem, but it's better if you are prepared in case something goes wrong)
    Forgot, that it works again.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MAXXxxx View Post
    could you add a magnifying glass too, pic is small..

    zooming in:
    - right side is ok, all usable and good
    - left side:
    -- compressor looks ok, it has a tank, regulator, m.trap too.
    -- air hose: ok, normally the compressor has one too, so may or may not be needed. Even if not a spare extra won't matter.
    -- cleaning kit looks also ok. You will use it 99% of the time as an AB holder. I need the cleaning brushes maybe once a month or two. With the Vallejo cleaning fluid(loves dissolving anything acrylic) and cleaning during color change/when done for the session is normally enough
    -- AB: hmm, I see that a lot of people start with this, but that may not be the best option as if you get a better one you'll have to relearn quite a bit. So if you think you'll use it enough then maybe a HP-BP HI Performance Plus (or even a CM-C2 altough that could be overkill) would be better. The HP-C+ you chose is great for large areas and large figures, but if you invest in AB, then better some that you can do smaller details too.
    If you KNOW you'll mostly do primer/basecoat/preshade/vehicles/large figures then the HP-C+ is ok or I'd even consider going cheaper for a badger 105.

    What I miss:
    -- quick change adapter: makes switches between AB-s (or just removing the AB for cleaning) really easy.
    -- I'd add a REALLY CHEAP noname chinese AB from ebay(for a max price of 10-15USD). Only for Primer/Varnish work (could also used for basecoating terrain), basically anything where you don't need precision and could be harsh on the AB.
    -- spare nozzle and needles, at least 1, better 2. (also if possible(the AB can handle it) alternate sizes) .So for example if the AB comes with a .2mm nozzle and needle, then 2 spare .2mm-s and a .5mm nozzle+needle (and maybe a .3mm too).

    -- if you choose the Iwata a shop near you where you could buy replacement parts / that do repairs (not really a problem, but it's better if you are prepared in case something goes wrong)


    Regarding your
    HP-BP HI Performance Plus recommendation ... I see it is actually less expensive by a fair amount and the Iwata website rates and the HP-c plus excellent for miniatures.
    could you please expand on the reason for recommending
    HP-BP HI Performance Plus?

    thanks again

  4. #4

    Default

    Badger primer over vallejo if these are for gaming. It's tougher and sandable if you miss a mold line or some clean up.
    "Remember, you can't spell paint without a little pain."

    Blog: almostperftec.blogspot.ca
    Instagram: almost_zab
    DeviantArt Handle: AlmostZab
    Art Amino Handle: Almost Perftec Painting
    P&P: Neil Szabo

  5. #5

    Default

    first I use HnS because of access to parts / tutorials / etc near me.

    But according to an article on the iwata site: (http://www.airbrush-iwata.com)
    "An avid resin-kit builder and a contributing writer to several hobby publications, Tom Grossman frequently uses the Eclipse HP-CS powered by a IS-875 Smart Jet Pro compressor.
    For detail work, he prefers the HP-BP. Gravity-feed airbrushes allows for excellent detailing and quick cleaning with both airbrushes. The HP-BP allows for detailing with modestly heavy pigments. The HP-CS allows for lighter detailing and large background coverage."

    so CS mostly for large coverage, BP for detailing. That said the best would be one of the micron ones, but the learning curve could be too steep. (Also mine is only one opinion, not THE truth)

    Edit: now that I read Zab's recommendation I remembered, that while the Black Vallejo primer is really good, but the white sucks. The white I have is really really bad. Peels off, doesn't cover.
    Then again I might just got a bad one, from a bad batch.
    Last edited by MAXXxxx; 12-20-2017 at 06:38 PM.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MAXXxxx View Post
    first I use HnS because of access to parts / tutorials / etc near me.

    But according to an article on the iwata site: (http://www.airbrush-iwata.com)
    "An avid resin-kit builder and a contributing writer to several hobby publications, Tom Grossman frequently uses the Eclipse HP-CS powered by a IS-875 Smart Jet Pro compressor.
    For detail work, he prefers the HP-BP. Gravity-feed airbrushes allows for excellent detailing and quick cleaning with both airbrushes. The HP-BP allows for detailing with modestly heavy pigments. The HP-CS allows for lighter detailing and large background coverage."

    so CS mostly for large coverage, BP for detailing. That said the best would be one of the micron ones, but the learning curve could be too steep. (Also mine is only one opinion, not THE truth)

    Edit: now that I read Zab's recommendation I remembered, that while the Black Vallejo primer is really good, but the white sucks. The white I have is really really bad. Peels off, doesn't cover.
    Then again I might just got a bad one, from a bad batch.



    Thank you very much.


    You may be confusing the Eclipse HP-CS with the brush on my buying list: HP-C Plus


    regardless, you've alerted me to the HP BP and I thank you for that.

    I found a comparison between the HP-C plus and the HP-BP: https://youtu.be/1D0J6PCxWsM

    https://youtu.be/1D0J6PCxWsM

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