GumbaFish's WIP [CC welcome and encouraged!] - Page 2
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Thread: GumbaFish's WIP [CC welcome and encouraged!]

  1. #21

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    Thanks for your thoughts Lone Lemming! I can look I might already have a tutorial on how I do the leather. Honestly it was something I stumbled on one time and maybe use as a crutch a little now that I see I do it so often =) I get a lot of comments on it though but it is actually very simple and fast to do.

    Here is a quick step by step (of course you don't need these exact colors)
    -Basecoat Vallejo Game Color Charred Brown (very dark brown)
    -Stipple all over with Coat d'arms Horse Tone Chestnut (warm dark ruddy brown)
    -Stipple Vallejo Game color Beasty Brown to begin defining the highlights (a lighter ruddy brown)
    -Stipple Vallejo Game Color Parasite Brown to further define the highlights
    -If you think you made things too bright then go back with Beasty Brown and tone things down some of the Parasite brown areas
    -If you want to define shadows a little more you can apply some dark brown wash/glaze. I personally use Ammo by Mig Streaking Grime which is an enamel product, but I use these a lot on other things anyways. I am sure an army painter or GW shade would work similarly.

  2. #22

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    Also I have painted a few more miniatures for Malifaux. I wasn't expecting to play this game but found that I am really liking the atmosphere the more I learn and am excited to start playing. These a refreshing change of pace for painting.

    Hunter




    Watcher


  3. #23

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    Those Malifaux minis are really well done, love the colour choices and effects you've achieved

  4. #24

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    Here are the next two malifaux minis. I am trying out some different backgrounds so the color looks different. I always struggle with how a miniature looks in my hand, vs. under lights for photography, vs. how it looks on the monitor (which also differs wildly). Any advice on how you select photos that are most representative of the piece in person are certainly welcome since I have never truly reached a point where I can do it consistently.

    Guardian





    Mechanical attendant


  5. #25

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    I guess I should show that both of these are conversions. The mechanical attendant is little but turned into a rather large project of replacing things and bending wires.





  6. #26

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    Nice job on the conversions and the painting! The weathering looks sweet

  7. #27

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    really nice work on those two! I can't believe those cacti are those bright fluorescent looking things

  8. #28

  9. #29

  10. #30

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    Ok so I am reviving this thread after realizing I had two separate WIP logs. To start getting up to date here are some D&D miniatures I have been working on with the aim of fast paintjobs and experimenting with some different techniques.

    Goblins




    Orc


    Wraiths



    Evil Sorcerer


    Stone Troll
    You can follow more of my work on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/finescale_dawdler/

  11. #31

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    A group photo of my Hoffman crew for Malifaux



    Hoffman closeup


    Joss closeup
    You can follow more of my work on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/finescale_dawdler/

  12. #32

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    My first batch of Necrons done in a pretty fast weathered style. I wanted a scheme that I could do pretty quickly but had some more visual interest than the typical metallic schemes. I haven't really tried doing such simple bases with weathering powders before but I think I like the look. I'll probably add some dead colored static grass once I get the whole lot finished.



















    You can follow more of my work on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/finescale_dawdler/

  13. #33

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    Now my current WIP is an ornament I got from Scibor Miniatures maybe 2 years ago and never painted. I have a conversion using this old pear I got at a local reuse store so it can be converted into a hot air balloon.

    You can follow more of my work on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/finescale_dawdler/

  14. #34

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    The assembled ornament. I started painting but ran into an issue. Despite priming and doing the initial airbrush coats a week ago the paint on the foam pear gets dissolved by water and previous layers come right off. I used Stynylrez primer and even tried giving the whole thing a few coats of varnish. Applying the varnish also removed paint and didn't seem to remedy things. I am going to try some solvent based rattle can primer and see if that works because I have never experienced anything like this before.

    You can follow more of my work on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/finescale_dawdler/

  15. #35

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    I love the look of your models, and I particular I;m quite intrigued by the way you achieve the "spattered" look on you capes.

    Can you describe the technique you use on this for newbies like me.

  16. #36

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    Man, such amazing work. Glad to have you back again.
    Love the necrons, and that Joss figure looks great.

    The hot pear, um, I mean air balloon is such a cool conversion ;P

    As for the primer not sticking, I'd suggest some auto primer. If that doesn't stick, nothing will.
    Also, maybe give the pear a light sanding before priming. The scratch marks should help the primer grab hold of the surface. The primer should also fill the sand marks mostly, so you shouldn't see them after either.

  17. #37

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    Sorry for the slow response, I am getting caught back up after the holidays. I have gotten a lot of comments about the leather capes and it is actually incredibly easy. Start of with whatever dark brown you have (I really like Coat D'arms Horse Tone Chestnut) and basecoat the whole area. Then I have an old large frayed drybrush that I use to start stippling layers on top of that. Just get a little color on your brush, wipe a bit off on a piece of paper towel, and then you lightly jab the miniature with the brush. Having an old frayed brush helps speed it up a bit since it covers a larger area and I don't need to be too delicate. You can create highlights by doing a few passes of gradually lighter colors and just place them in smaller and smaller areas like you normally would. You can also give the illusion of lighter areas by increasing the density of the points. I usually hit it with two highlights (Vallejo Game Color Beasty Brown and Parasite brown or something similar) to define the highlights. If I think I need some more contrast I just use some kind of dark brown or black wash in the shadows to help bring back some definition. Its super easy and very fast.

    I actually just painted this little guy as a gift for someone using this technique all over to make it look like a well loved stuffed animal. It was originally a dollar store ceramic that I scribed lines into and added texture with stippling.

    You can follow more of my work on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/finescale_dawdler/

  18. #38

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    It's good to be back! Thanks that is a good idea. I'll try giving it a light sanding with 220 before trying an aerosol primer on it. I have never had that happen before so it was a bummer seeing the paint just wipe off.

    I also have an update on the finally finished Canoptek Reanimator that I have had on my desk for a long while now.
    You can follow more of my work on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/finescale_dawdler/

  19. #39

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    My first attempt at OSL. I'm pretty happy with the result and had fun giving it a shot.



    You can follow more of my work on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/finescale_dawdler/

  20. #40

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    Love the weathering you did on the Reanimator. The colors you used work very well together.
    Also the little OSL dwarf looks good, I think you nailed the effect.

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