A question for any would be painters we may have on the boards...
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Thread: A question for any would be painters we may have on the boards...

  1. #1

    Default A question for any would be painters we may have on the boards...

    Looking thru the posts we have in this section, I’m reminded of how I felt before I started painting. Unsure of how they would turn out, and lost on where to start. While there are plenty of good YouTube channels out there, I thought it might be nice to have something here as well.

    So in in the interest of supporting each other, I thought I’d see:

    A: Do we even have people here that want to paint, but have concerns or questions?

    B: What type of content from our Artists do you feel would help you the most? Some work in progress threads? A general community supported Q&A/advice thread? Something else?

  2. #2


    For the last 23 years I have gone in and out of painting phases. I'm always interested in people's techniques because I'll always find interesting ones here and there to add to my repertoire.

    T W
    To the Iron Throne!

    T W

  3. #3


    I’ve only been painting for about 2-3 years. I’ve definitely found it to be one of those things where you borrow from others to create your own style. And therefore it’s constanly changing and evolving.

    I love sharing thoughts and ideas ideas around how things can be done. Including “happy accidents”.

  4. #4


    I've just started painting in June and discovered this site recently. I've painted about 15 28mm miniatures and a complete set of Battlestar Galactica ships (~40pcs 1" long ships). The most troublesome (altought it is said to be the easiest technique) for me was and still is washing. I simply could not get any ok results with that and recently I'm using the wash only to give a dark tint (instead of using black paint) during layering. Maybe it's the paint (Vallejo black wash) but I'm afraid its me. Additionally I've found the Vallejo wash to ditute a bit during varnishing and causing some smudging around the washed parts. So, I'm leaving the was off my table as much as I can.

    I would love to see some info about the different washes, which one to use and where and especially how. I've developed a technique with my wash which... at the end turned to be actually layering, so I prefer painting the shades with normal paint, which is killing me, but still.


  5. #5


    I’ll try to put together some thoughts and tips on washing to post soon. Either as a thread, or as additional feedback if another illustrious painter beats me to it.

    It may help tho to get some better insight into what issues you are having using the wash outside of the dilution effect. So we can be sure it’s something that gets addressed. Could you provide a picture or a little more detail?

    my first thought on the dilution is to ask how long you’re giving it to dry before applying the varnish? In my experience, washes need more time to fully dry than the actual paints do. I tend to give them a minimum of 24hours.

  6. #6


    At first I've started washing the miniatures all over, the result was a heavily darkened miniature with some shades. With the heavily washed figure the smudging effect of the varnish was not detectable. After several figures and some hints from a local social-painting event I try to use the was delicately and with more precision. I've also found out to follow the procedure wash-highlight-wash-highlight if possible.

    I always wait at least 24 hours, this is the minimum, but even 2-3 days if possible before varnishing. I tend to prefer brush-on varnish, it is more work to apply but the varnish will not block crevices. On this one https://ibb.co/d1vKOV the whole blue skin color was destroyed using the wash.
    Nowadays I'm using the wash like this: https://ibb.co/jsypOV, almost not detectable, but I'm putting it only into the small cracks manually. This was my first very metallic miniature and I did not use the spay-on varnish at all, instead I've used a brush on method. It appeares that the brush-on method had no smudging effect. Maybe my spray-on varnish is not ok for this purpose...

  7. #7


    Hello and welcome- I’ve been on here since 2012 and been painting half of mylife at the moment I’m 45. :/ anyways thishobby is def about technical mastery - but think about this to even set yourself on the course to this you first have to have the right tools. I haven’t used the black wash however something tells me if this is and ongoing problem then we have to get you yourself to change a few things. All washes aren’t created equal just like Windsor And Newton brushes are way way better than anything you can get at a second hand art store.that being said I myself use washes for games workshop.this co got where it is today simply because they make amazing products back by research and and testing through application . They have 10 washes covering every major color you would need. They can be used out of the pot. Try thisalonh with those they make a flow improver called Lahaina medium. What most do is use them together in a mix. I mix 50% wash with 59% medium and I suckuo the paint in a citadel medium layer brush I quickly bring it to a Scott towel and basically just have it absorbed by the towel the droplet on the end. I want to still leave it loaded where the Brussels are separating. I do not want to unload it to a point on the towel. Basically now that the excess droplet that forms on the end is off I take the brush and with very easy pressure i I don’t brush but move the dilution around evenly where it covers everything and begins to settle in the crevices as well. Your basically moving around the waterymixevrnly over themodel. Do not let puddles form , if they do take a brush and just scoop up any that formed by gently touching the puddle.
    ive explained this best I could I hope this helps matey!!!

  8. #8


    Thanks! It will surely will help a lot. At the beginning I've started with small amount of paints and a black wash. As I couldn't get good results with the wash and I've started leaving it out of the game I did not try any other types. I prefer the dropper style paints (tried the citadels, but the lid-type is way more impractical), this is why I also choose the Vallejo wash. GW is a bit harder to acquire in my location but will try out a Citadel wash for sure.
    Applying the wash was always done with more pressure, just like during basing. Sometimes I've tried to dilute it with water, but the results were even worse, smudging in circles as the wash dried. I've also tried to add a drop of detergent to the water first and then diluted it with that water, but I did not see any changes. Handling the wash more gently sounds logical, the cracks would naturally "catch" the paint where it needs.

  9. #9


    Use the GW lahmian medium or Vallejo Airbrush Flow improver (basically same thing) or glaze medium. Too much water will break the surface tension of the acrylic medium and you get the binder separating from the pigments so you get the hard edges as it puddles, I speak from experience
    If the GW washes and medium are hard to get in your area, try getting the Vallejo Airbrush flow improver and adding that to your Vallejo wash and see what happens.

  10. #10


    Disclaimer: this is from my experience painting for a couple years. Aside from some videos and feedback on my work, I would consider myself self taught. I HIGHLY encourage you to take what works for you from each persons advice, and make your own process that works for you.

    I have only only used Army Painter (the dropper bottles, not the cans) and GW brand washes, and agree that they are not created equal. Army Painter is my preferred choice, because I can thin those with water, without needing to purchase extra supplies. I bought GW expecting the same, and I was very much mistaken.

    To me, washes can be used for many many different things.

    All washes are going to settle in the recesses to make detail pop, they are also going to effect the color of the paint. They will take something that looks like a kids toy, and turn it into decent tabletop quality almost on their own.

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    Washing is is almost always my last painting step before varnish. I don’t know that I have ever highlighted afterwards, because I feel I don’t have the time or the skill. I also feel I can get similar effects with a drybrush before washing.

    Lots of people will wash wash the entire piece in the same wash and be done. Usually using the dip method that can be found online. This is great if you need to get it done quickly.

    Even at this stage, it’s important to understand how the wash you use will effect the color of the paint. And plan your paint colors accordingly. It gets more important once you get into using multiple different washes on a piece. Colored washes, especially, will augment that same tone in a paint. (Check out the troll below for an example of adding a green wash to a paint with slight green tint)

    Even when using multiple washes, I tend to go back and run a light wash over the whole piece, to help blend everything together.

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    The body of the troll above was all painted the same color. I used a green wash over everything but the stomach. I then used a thin layer of a light brown to blend it together.

    Also,don’t be afraid to experiment with putting colored washes on paints that don’t match. My favorite zombie skin tone has been putting a green wash over brown paint for a rotted look.

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    And sometimes you get happy accidents. Like this flesh wash over Army Painter’s toxic boils.

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    (Original color on Flayed Man. Bolton is after wash)

    So I again encourage everyone to experiment and take the bits and pieces that work for them. In the end the only thing that matters is “are you happy with your results?”

  11. #11


    I also meant to add something else to planning before you apply wash. Its a little more of an issue when washing over large areas, but it’s helpful to plan where you’re going to apply it. As wash starts to dry, if you accidentally over lap then it’ll show. (This is a bigger issue for me as kids distract while painting). So I try to plan an approach that give natural stopping points to avoid this happening. Like the troll pictured above. I broke it down to legs, hands, head, and the rest of the body. I look for folds or breaks such as clothing or items to section off the sculpt.

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