New to painting and got many questions.
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Thread: New to painting and got many questions.

  1. #1

    Question New to painting and got many questions.

    Hello, a week ago, i wanted to try to first paint a figurine that i got for free. Which failed horribly...
    So i wanted to start getting really into it.

    I didn't knew what tools i should get, i was thinking about getting some very thin brushes but i don't know which one to pick.

    And mainly i have 3 big problems :

    The first one and the one that i find the most hard to overcome is the eye. I was never able to do it properly on paper (big eye, the anime-like kind). I find it really hard to make detail that high on such a little space. So any tips are welcome.

    The second one is how to fix mistakes, if i paint somewhere that i shouldn't have painted, can i fix it ? (And if i can with what paint)

    And the third one is how to stabilize the figurine, when i first tried, it kept falling which made it very hard to make good details.

    My goal is to be able to paint that kind of figurine (with those eye that i keep failing to do...)
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    Thank for all tips and help that you guys can give me.

  2. #2

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    hi,

    eyes: no real tip, just practice it on a paper before painting it on the figure.
    In reality anime eyes are really simple. Just make an oval in a dark color in the middle + dark lines on top and bottom of the eye, then paint in a U shape in the eye color, then a small U with a lighter color. Finish with 1-2 dots of pure white.
    And to be honest the figure you show is about 1/6 or 1/8 scale, so face and eyes are LARGE .

    fixing mistakes: simply paint over with the other color. Depending on the covering power (black is stronger than yellow) you might need a few layers (waiting to dry inbetween) but will disappear eventually.
    Or you could take a risk by trying to wipe it away with the help of some thinner/cleaner. IF the underlying layer had time to set (about 2-3 days) then you can get rid of the paint without damaging it. But (as usual with this hobby) it takes a bit of practice, so not really a good option for starters

    stabilizing: I'd use a large pin to pin the figure and set that in a holder (I use pin-vices for this) (for the figure in pic I'd use this method for head/hair/arms/legs/wings). For really heavy pieces it's better to go area by area and protect that's finished with a wrap (on the pic I'd probably do the skirt like that)


    no idea if you thought about it, but if you paint more figures of that size it's wise to invest in an airbrush. Painting 1/6 anime figures is a pain without it (can be done beautifully, but takes a LOT of patience and time)
    Forgot, that it works again.

  3. #3
    Senior Member ekipage's Avatar
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    If you are painting mostly small figures 28mm - 35mm, then I would look at some Kolinksy Sable brushes size 0 thru 2, but you can also just get some nylon brushes from a craft store to use for priming and base coating as they will be cheaper than the sable ones. Some good Kolinsky Sable brushes are: Winsor and Newton Series 7, Raphael 8404
    There is a website (https://www.rosemaryandco.com/waterc...linsky-pointed) based in the UK that does some pretty good sable brushes for a little cheaper, the Series 33 line on their site

    Tools that will be helpful or needed: hobby files and/or sandpaper to smooth out mold lines, pin vise (hand drill) for drilling and pinning figure (if you go that route), paper clips work well for pins (at least on small figures), a Sprue Cutter, some green stuff or miliput for filling gaps in the figure, and some plastic glue or Super glues depending on what the figure is made of (plastic glue for plastic figures / Super Glue for Resin or metal figures, will work with plastic ones too though)

    If you are going to do the larger anime figures, MAXXxxx offers some good advice above as well as his advice on fixing mistakes and stabilizing the figure by pinning.

    You can use the pin vice (or jewelers vice) to hold the figure or use a large cork (or tape several together) that is larger than the figure so you have a good base, you will need to put a pin in the feet to hold it in the cork.

    You might be able to get away with larger brushes if you don't want to go the airbrush route though, maybe a size 8 or 10 and then the smaller brushes for fine details.

  4. #4

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    eyes are a matter of try and try again until you get it right. There isnt much of a short cut. IF all else fails then Archer sell eyeball decals. Never used them myself so I cant give you a review. A small tube of filler for gaps wont go astray. Airbrush isnt needed. The extra time brush painting will more than be accounted for setting up then stripping down your airbrush, dealing with blockages.then dealing with paint changes n more cleaning. I save mine for larger military projects. Spend the extra cash if you can on a decent primer if doing larger scale work. The self leveling properties of Vallejo primers I find to be great. Something like MrSurfacer will show any flaws in your primed piece.

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