Chronicle of DaBeeb's - Page 8
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Thread: Chronicle of DaBeeb's

  1. #141

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    Fourth and final attempt, as I don't think the resin would like another soak in paint removing chemical (the resin seems to be breaking down, as evident on the tail of the robe). This came out decent, as I stopped fiddling with the skin tone when I got it close to what I had before, instead of continuing to try and increase contrast AND pull off the effect. The black to red came out smoother on this round. And given the practice I've had, I was able to finish this one up in an evening. Now, on to the base. I bought some really small round polystyrene at the hobby store on Saturday, and will attempt to make passable casings for her super small sidearms. If that doesn't work out, I also ordered the bullet casing rubber mold from GreenStuffWorld, along with some other goodies like SpiderSerum and cleaner. Took better pictures, in hopes that the finer details of the sheer would show up (iphone photos just are the best for minis, I'm learning).

    Y'all have a great week!

    Comments/Suggestions/Critique?

  2. #142

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    Hi DaBeebs,
    I'm with Kuribo in wondering whether the rough resin finish may be frustrating your efforts. Painting on a well detailed smooth surfaced mini can just feel 'right' in a way that painting onto rough and/or poorly defined detail doesn't. The approach I've fallen into is to smooth rough resin (or plastic) finishes by scraping with a knife blade. With the blade held around 90% to the surface you can rub the balde over the surface, which should smooth off any bumps and roughness without hacking into the detail. It should be a fairly gentle stroking action rather than cutting or hacking, better to take many light passes than try to remove with one brute force attack. (takes some practice so try on a test piece first). This is fine on a relatively flat undetailed surface, which of course is exactly the type of surface that you don't find on miniature figures (darn-it!).

    So the next challenge is how can you scrape smooth a surface on the complicated shapes and details that you do find on miniature figures? Jumping in with a chunky Stanley knife blade is doomed to failure, and there's often not much more hope with the average craft blade. If the blade won't fit the detail, the only choice you have is to change the blade...
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    This picture shows original (relatively flat) blades, with reground rounded blades next to them. The large flat chisel blade has been ground to a wide diameter round, the angled blade to a smaller diameter (even the original blade has a rounded tip), the narrow chisel provides an even smaller diameter, plus I ground an angled blade to have a 45% tip which is great for sharpening up 'stepped' detail. The three rounded blade profiles cover pretty much any sin, clothing contour and allow me to pretty much scrape the entire surface of rough castings (Citadel 'finecast' being a case in point, it never quite live up to the name!). Though I started using blades just to smooth rough texture, there's no real dividing line between cleaning and resculpting. While cleaning the rough texture from a fold of cloth the fold can also be deepened and accentuated, if removing rough texture from the edge of a cloak the edge can be scraped thinner to give a far more realistic look. I think this starts to enable introducing the level of detailing that the original figure sculptors would work to if they were not contrained by the subsequent molding/casting process.

    To regrind blades I use a diamond chisel block (initially expensive but lasts forever, a cheaper whetstone would also work) hold the edge of the blade against the stone at around the original blade angle, and then sharpen with a rocking motion. The rocking causes more metal to be removed from the points, which after a while results in a curved edge.

    This may be a complete off-subject waffle, but like I say, maybe it's the limitations of the original figure that is unsettling your painting mojo. Your previous Viking figure is beautifully and superbly painted so there's no question re your painting ability, which makes me suspect that something else is putting you off your game, and the original figure is both rough finished and lacking finer detail. So maybe give it a try on the next one ( no point destroying your work to date, plus if the resin is starting to breakdown after multiple paint strippings it's probably too fragile for testing this technique on) and if it works... well then you can curse me for how much longer your mini's will take to finish from now on! (I know!!).

    Hope this helps!

  3. #143

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    Thanks for sharing your smoothing tools Doc Zoff.

    DaBeebs, I agree with the herd. I don’t thing the sheer effect looks that bad, but the rough surface makes it harder on you. Don’t give up.

  4. #144

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    Concerning the problem of the rough plastic or rough primer...I just remembered an old trick I used as a kid on car models. Has anyone ever tried massaging the primer with toothpaste? Toothpaste is a super mild abrasive, and when used on rattle can primers as a wet sanding, creates a very smooth finish, much like wet sanding automotive primer with 1500/2000 grit sand paper. Will the acrylic primer react similarly? Guess I'll have to try this down the road.

    Thanks, Doc, for the suggestions. I've gone at mold lines with the back side of a Xacto from about the 2nd miniature I painted; never thought to attack the rest of the model with shaped blades.

    To KB and Eki, thanks for the encouragement and the suggestion that it may not be something I'm doing wrong, just something I could be doing better (ie. thinner primer coats). I really have come to appreciate the helpful community here (the wife gets tired of me talking about my little "guys", and she's not much help beyond telling me, "that looks good," or, "that doesn't look right.") LOL

  5. #145

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    Got this one to a place I'm ok with. Had fun painting the plastic sheet to look like granite. The bullet casings are polystyrene rod that I simply cut, glued, painted, and then washed. Not really satisfied with the overall results of this project, but learned a bit more about what I can and can't do at this stage and scale.

    Next up...the same harpy that Sigmar3 just finished. I'm struggling to figure out a unique color palette for her, as I seem to be gravitating to the stereotypical evil queen colors of purple, black, grey, and red. I want to do something more interesting than Maleficient, lol, just can't picture it in my head. Maybe something based around emerald green and black? Suggestions are welcome.

    After that, I've got one last RagingHeroes model that I'm really excited to work on. The model itself isn't really anything special, but the presentation I've been brewing and 3d printing components for, should prove very interesting. Stay tuned!

    Comments/Suggestions/Critique?

  6. #146

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    I looove the reds. Sooo smoothe- and crunchy delicious!!!

  7. #147

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    Terrific basing!! Now I need to search for my Bullet for my Valentine CD ;-)
    Fantastic idea with all those bullets at the ground!!!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0SrxSMHDmE

  8. #148

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    Great project, like BAM i like the reds for nice deepness, the base also looks cool

  9. #149

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    That turned out nice.your next sheer mini will be a lot easier.

  10. #150

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    Good work, you definitely pulled it back out the bag and improved it. Nice base that's great, and the reds are lovely. Good luck with Xarsiss the Harpy Queen, look forward to seeing what you do

  11. #151

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    Very cool style! To me the casings are a bit large and too perfectly distributed, but those are really trivial nitpick. I admire your boldness!

  12. #152
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    ​Nice tight color scheme.

  13. #153

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    Nothing fancy, but another mini down. I think it turned out alright, even if it was a "quick job."

    Props to Sigmar's harpie, as his color combination was a huge inspiration!

  14. #154

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    Cheers for the shout out, and we'll done completing this one, you've done a great job....And in about a 10th of the time it took me haha. I respect your decision to do the eyes, I went for the good old coloured fantasy magic eyes so I didn't have to haha

  15. #155

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    Nicely done DaBeebs! I really like the color combinations you went with. What green did you use for the wings I really like that rich dark green you achieved there.

  16. #156

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    Nice job on this “quicky”. Love the green in the wings.

  17. #157

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    Hope everyone enjoyed the day with family or friends. After all our family left today, and while the kids and wife took a mid afternoon nap, I busted out the green stuff to improve on the Extreme Dire Troll Mauler I put together last night. I really didn't like how his left arm obscured his face, the way he was leaning over, or the lack of muscle tone; I can remember BCK posting some impressive re-positioned/re-sculpted WM models on his WIP that I really liked. I figure that if I was going to have to fill the gaps between the parts, I might as well try and make it more interesting to look at. Second time ever mixing up some green stuff, and I think it turned out alright given the tools I had available to me. I've also included a sneak peek at what I've got planned for my last ragingheroes model, although I will be holding off on moving forward with her until the mood strikes me to paint a small female figure again.
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    Vallejo Game Color 72.026 Jade Green, with home brew Chesnut wash, followed by Biel-Tan Wash, followed with a really light wash of Nuln Oil is how I did the wings on the harpy! Thanks for all the positive feedback on the harpy!

  18. #158

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    Really impressed by the colors on the RH lady, Beebs! The contrast between the sand and skin and the blood and bullets really is eye-catching. I applaud your persistence with that sculpt as well. If I saw such rough surfaces, I likely would given up on the project and not even tried to paint it. Looking forward to seeing this next guy develop as it looks like a great sculpt!

  19. #159

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    Here's a quick shot of what I've been up to. Need some suggestions for the base, as I'm trying to come up with an idea before I get there. I'm wanting him on a square plinth at a 45deg angle, flat top. I was thinking it would be fun to do a swamp/water/rocky landscape, possibly with a splash in the water where his left hand is hitting down. An amusing thought was a little rubber ducky being the target of his frustration, lol. So, bring on some suggestions, folks. I think tomorrow, I'll take some more druchii violet and add some more depth to the shadows. FYI, this is 2nd attempt with this guy, so it might look a little rough (1st attempt ended badly with some weathering pigments *FML*).

  20. #160

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    Well, here's some stuff that I've been up to...
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    I still need to take the time to sculpt and paint the rubber ducky. I was a little disappointed that the hot glue dam coupled with the plastic sheeting didn't retain the two part ak interactive resin, and created the mess on the plinth; I'll use something different the next go round.
    Last edited by DaBeebs; 05-07-2019 at 02:25 AM.

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